starter gear and possible hydrolock

[Woodsy]

Hi folks... This is my first time posting here although I've come here reading many fine articles with great advice.  I'm hoping that some of you with more experience and far greater knowledge can give me some advice.  So, here's my sad story thus far...

I took my '99 Valk out of storage this spring, turned on the petcock and the choke and started it up as I usually would after storing all winter.  Each fall, I would turn the petcock off and let the bike run until no more fuel was in the lines.  The bike did start but as it did, I noticed fuel was running down over the engine block from somewhere under the carbs.  I, of course, immediately turned it off and did some reading.  Assuming there was a stuck float in one of the carbs, I gingerly tapped on each one a few times as various forums suggested.  Well, nothing would solve the problem, so I made an appointment with my local dealer turned off the petcock and trailered it to my local dealer.  I was away for a couple of weeks and they worked on it then.  They worked on it and gave it a clean bill of health for the cost of a little over $400, which I thought was fair.  Here's what they did:

Completely cleaned and resynched all the carbs
Drained and replaced the oil and filter because fuel had gotten into crankcase
Installed new plugs
State inspection

I can't seem to find the paperwork, but I think this was about it.  I test rode it at the dealership and it seemed to run well, although I think it sounded smoother before, but that may have been my imagination.  It pulled strong as always and I was happy to have it back in action.  I trailered it home and started it long enough to get it off the trailer and into the shed and then got too busy to ride for a couple of weeks.  Now here is where the big problem started.  I finally got to take it out and started it up as usual.  The second time I pressed the starter switch, I heard a kind of metallic clack which I knew did not sound right.  The bike did start, however and ran smoothly.  I let it warm up a little and then turned it off to see if I would get that sound again, and sure enough, there it was.  All I could figure is that maybe the starter gear had broken a tooth and that clack sound was due to it hitting and engaging the next tooth.  I'm no expert, but it didn't sound good.

I immediately read some horror stories on the forums learning about hydrolock and it didn't sound good.  I don't know if that's what happened, but I was worried.  I called my dealer and since the bike was already started and seemed to be running smoothly, I rode it down there.  My Goldwing had just had the brake recall work done and I could just exchange one bike for the other.  I did that and when I got home I had a message from the dealership saying that it was not good and that it would cost around $1500 to fix it.  It has been at the dealership now for a few weeks as they couldn't get to the job for a while.  I asked what had happened, especially after getting the work done just a few weeks earlier and if there was something they may have missed.  I made sure they knew I was not accusing them, but still was not happy that the first time I used the bike after getting it fixed, this happened.

The bike has only about 11k on it and is in (or was) in great condition.  Not being a mechanic to the level of Valkyrie engine and carb work, I just don't know if I will be able to trust the bike in the future.  Is it the bike or is it the dealership.  I think they said that they would begin work around July 5, so I am not sure what to do when I do pay and get it back.  Could this happen again and should the dealership be able to guarantee their work?    I could really use some advice on this whole situation.

Thanks

[Chrisj CMA]

I would think along with float valve trouble you had go have a bad petcock if you in fact had a lock.

First, you need to know if the shop replaced the floats and valves.  If not, that needs to be done, then do a vacuum check on the fuel valve or better yet replace it with a quality valve.

Until both issues are corrected, yes it will lock again ( or can)

[gordonv]

Can you work on your bike yourself? $1500 for a $100 worth parts job is about right. I would say it is not easy, but it can be done.

Now for the rest.

$400 to clean 6 carbs and other work???? Others have quoted $1000-$1500. Then when they get it back, they still have problems.

I think that this problem started with dried fuel seals, and only required the fuel flowing to cause those seals to swell again and stop leaking.

Sounds from your description on the starter would be correct. Missing one tooth, and hitting the next. But it didn't do it before the trip to the dealer, but after it came home, I find suspect. I'm surprised that the a hydro lock would clear, or one that learned would break a tooth.

[Gavin_Sons]

Save your 1500, sign the title over to me and collect 1500 from me, you will be 3000 ahead 
No just kidding, this is a pretty easy fix, just very time consuming. I have done 2 hydrolocked bikes and both run just as they did before the problem started. Dont know why you couldn't trust the bike in the future. These bikes need ridden often to keep the carbs clean. Mayne for winter storage use some kind of fuel stabilizer like stabil. I like to start using it a few weeks before winter storage to make sure it is in the carbs. Usually try to run at least a half a tank of treated gas through before filling it up full with treated gas. I then shut it down pull it in the garage and drain the carb bowls.

[Grumpy]

If the gas is running down the out side of the carbs, the o-rings on the fuel rails have dried up. Some times after running the bike for a while they will swell back up and stop leaking.  If they do not quit leaking, the carbs will need to be pulled and kits installed in them.

[Woodsy]

Thanks for all the advice so far....more feedback is definitely welcome.

Grumpy...I think the fuel was running directly out of the vent tube that first time when I tried starting it after the winter.  I didn't get it to stop after tapping on the carbs, so that's when I took it to the dealer for the cleaning.  I know they didn't rebuild any of the carbs but apparently cleaned them all and resynched.  I don't think any of the hardware was changed.

Chrisj... If it wasn't a hydrolock, is there something else that could have caused the starter gear to break as I'm pretty sure it did?  I was apparently able to start it and it seemed to run well.

Gordonv...stil not sure it was a hydrolock and as you said...not sure it would clear if it truly was hydrolocked, but beyond that horrible clack sound, it started and ran fine on the way to the dealer.  That was about three weeks ago, and I haven't seen it since.

Thanks again for all the helpful commentary....keep it coming

[Chrisj CMA]

No other cause I know of.  If you have broken starter gear teeth you should assume it locked and take or confirm the corrective action. 

[Gavin_Sons]

Remove the starter and use a flashlight to look into the hole. The gear that normally breaks is visible to the left. This might confirm it hydrolocked.