Bolt problem on cylinder head.

[texdoc77]

As I was removing my exhaust in anticipation of my custom Mark T yesterday I ran into a couple of issues.  One of the header nuts was rusted onto the bolt coming out of the cylinder head and I torqued it clean off.  Yes I know, rookie mistake, but now I have a bolt that needs to come out and be replaced.  On another the header nut did not torque the bolt in half, but removed it from the cylinder head entirely.  Now on the first I ordered a replacement from partzilla, but my question is what is the safest way to remove the now damaged bolt from the cylinder head?  On the other bolt, I assume just threading the nut onto the bolt and using that to replace it is the way to go?

Thanks in advance.

[Fazer]

I just went thru this on a bolt holding my right foot peg.  There a lot of good Youtube videos if you search under Stud Removal, and some really neat tools for removing.  The double nut procedure looks simple enough.  I had the same thing happen when I took my exhaust off to desmog.  Didn't snap any off, but I got the whole stud along with the acorn nut a couple of time.  I just screwed em back in when I re-installed the exhaust.  If I have to remove in the future, I will replace the studs, now that I know what I am doing--sort of.

I had two final drive studs come out with nuts.  I put those back the same way, but have since ordered four new replacement studs so when I service the rear end next time, I will replace all four.

If your stud is broken off flush with the manifold you will probably have to drill and maybe re-tap with a larger thread.  I have read where sometimes you can turn the stud with a pointed object like a sharp pick, maybe with a couple of light taptaptap with a small hammer.  Once it's broke loose, should be easy to remove.  The studs are only about 6mm so not much room for a drill, but a small bit with a small easy out may also work if you can avoid drilling outside the stud into to manifold.

Others will surely chime in with suggestions.  Good luck.

[da prez]

If you are able , center punch the broken stud and drill with a good quality drill bit. Start small and increase size. When a bolt breaks off , an easy out will not likely remove it. It has to be freed up. If you have a small stub sticking out, tap it with a hammer and use WD40 or some penetrant before drilling. 
  Tap on it quite a bit. If the drill bit goes thru the stud, spray into the hole. If you go oversize , you can heli-coil it back.

                                     da prez

[gordonv]

Stub removal, haven't done it yet.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,88035.msg865597.html#msg865597

exhaust
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,88288.msg868337.html#msg868337

[Ricky-D]

Normally when an exhaust header stud twists off, it's only the smaller 10mm nut threads and when you remove the header it is revealed the thicker portion of the stud protruding from the head which is then pretty easy to grab it with a vice grip and turn it out. All this talk about drilling is unnecessary at this point.

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[Roidfingers]

If it is snapped off flush ? I have taken a old drill bit and cut it off just inside the top part where the cutting portion is to the shank. Where you just have all cutting portion and no shank. Then flip it over and install in drill and then reverse the drill and it will catch and remove stud.

[texdoc77]

First of all, it makes me feel better that this is kind of a common thing and isn't necessarily something I did wrong.  Second the bolt is not flush, there is plenty to grab on to.  I am going to try the double nut technique first, mostly from a curiosity of will it work.  Then I will try some vice grips, the problem is there is not much room to turn a wrench.  I might just make a video out of my effort...

[Fazer]

You can use a stud removal tool if there is something to grab on to.  Try the vice grips first but don't bugger it up too bad so you can still get a grip with a tool.  my guess is with the vice grips you will be able to simply unscrew it.  As someone else posted they are not installed with a lot of torque.  Blue loctite whey you replace with moderate torque should be sufficient.

[sutterhome]

spray w/wd 40 let sit for a day if possible,knock it a hammer or chisel to try and break it free, if possible heat thread area with a torch.Stay away from easyouts... they are the devil. They may work in wood but usually break off in metal and you end up a harder metal in the bolt that's really tough to drill

[texdoc77]

Very anticlimactic removal of bolt this morning.  Simply twisted out with a pair of pliers, I had multiple plans in place and I needed none of them... LOL. 

I'm sure murphy is waiting for me somewhere else...

[Ricky-D]

USE NO LOCKTITE, when replacing those studs. It's not necessary and will only cause future problems if you break off another.

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