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Ricky-D
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« Reply #40 on: October 24, 2009, 11:55:02 AM » |
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Bent rods are the least likely of any problem with the motor. They are never exposed to anything but straight line forces. The pistons will be the first to be damaged before the rods; and short of blowing out the crankcase the rods are bulletproof.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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deez
Member
Posts: 74
Builder of the Locost Seven on Steroids
Lee's Summit Mo.
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« Reply #41 on: October 24, 2009, 12:44:17 PM » |
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Yea, I didn't think the rods would be an issue , especially the right bank , but all the post about hydro locking the engine had me at least a little leary. While I have it down I'll probably put a fuel cut off solenoid on it also. since Ihave the head off I ordered all new valves, seals and gaskets so I can start with a fresh slate. I also found that you could play music on the cambelts! he must have used a pry bar to lever the tensioners as tight as he could. I thought they were singing pretty good !
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deez
Member
Posts: 74
Builder of the Locost Seven on Steroids
Lee's Summit Mo.
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« Reply #42 on: October 31, 2009, 11:06:22 PM » |
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 well she is all back together and suprise!!! I now have a 6cylinder motorcycle! once I got the carbs reset to correct all my previous attempts to get it to run right with a couple of bum cylinders it started running great. A little more mixture fine tuning an it shold be done!! thanks to everyone for your advice and input!
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1fastbob
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« Reply #43 on: November 01, 2009, 02:53:28 AM » |
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Congrats, When you get finished and need something to do come on over to my place and work on mine!  Bob |
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I'm on somebody's list! BFD!
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fstsix
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« Reply #44 on: November 01, 2009, 06:29:47 AM » |
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Been following your post i have even removed spark plugs when removal of belts thinking that compression would kick back when cam belt was removed.Your guess was dead nuts.Bone head and trigger Wheel.Feels good with a few more cylinders  . Ride safe. |
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dreamaker
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« Reply #45 on: November 01, 2009, 07:59:46 AM » |
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Ok... got back from vacation and rechecked the spark ( this is an old trick that I learned from an instructor for checking d.i.s. ignitions, use a short piece of high carbon content neoprene vacuum hose, in this case about 2" cut 6 of them, remove the plug wires from the plugs and install the hose onto the sparkplug electrode and then place the plug boot/wires onto the hose making sure that they are in good contact. start the engine (yes it will start if you use HIGH carbon content hose, not some of the cheap stuff!) next take your standard incedesent test light (not led type) and attach the clip to a good chassis ground. you then can probe each cylinders ignition at the hose. if your coil and wire is good the spark will jump off the hose onto the testlight tip and ultimately to ground. the cylinder will stop firing but the spark will still be arcing to the test light. a great way to do a power balance test. you just do one cylinder at a time and find the cylinder(s) with no drop in power or change in rpm) a wordy explination but I thought others would benifit from the test proceedure. Anyway my ignition was fine with good spark output. so once again I opened up #5 carb. pulled the top and checked the diaphram and needle (ok , no pin holes, tears , or kinks , needle was fine. dropped the bowl and removed the slow and main jets, pilot screw and completely cleaned out the body this time with spray carb cleaner and the tube placed into the holes for the jets. I found that one of the three transfer ports at the throttle blade were restricted ( the inner port). with a lot of work I was able to get all three ports open and flowing , I also cleared out the air bleeds. I reassembled the carb and set the pilot to 2.5 turns out. when I fired it back up I could tell it was finally firing off idle now,but idle is still weak. I will pick up NEW spark plugs tomorrow and set the gap with a gapping tool (the plier type) so that the gaps are equal on all plugs. Has anyone tried platinum tip plugs? negative or positive results? I keep chipping away at the problem and get a little better with each step so hopefully before the riding season is over I'll have it whipped!
Where do you get or how do you identify high carbon vac. hose? Dan |
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dreamaker
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« Reply #46 on: November 01, 2009, 10:58:36 AM » |
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inductive lights work great, but what you can check is the amount of gap the spark can jump (ie voltage available) by using the method I described. a light just tells you that voltage is present, but a weak coil or bad wire can have voltage going thru it, but be low enought to not jump the plug gap under compression. thats why the gm trainer told us about the carbon hose method when they first came out with the D.I.S. systems on their Quad4 engines. But your right using an inductive light is a fast method to do a quick check for voltage in the wires.
Just a couple more hours at work then it's off to the auto parts store for new plugs. I'm going with the standard ngk's for now.
Reading this thread trying to get some ideas for my issue, which my bike gets a intermittent flutter. It will run perfect one moment and maybe at the next stop light it will get a flutter. So reading about the timing light I decided to do a quicky on my plug wires to see if they are firing consistently. What I found was that 1-2 had a quick pulse, then 2-4 also had a quick pulse and when I checked 5-6 it had a slower intermittent pulse. Have any ideas? I figure it my be an issue with 5-6 coil. Dan |
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deez
Member
Posts: 74
Builder of the Locost Seven on Steroids
Lee's Summit Mo.
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« Reply #47 on: November 01, 2009, 03:54:25 PM » |
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 Hi Dan. normally what you look for is a hose with a lot of flexability and dark flat black (a given) a lot of the cheaper hose is very stiff and also has a very shiny appearence (almost like viny,which it is....duh) a lot of it is sold as replacement for windshield washer replacement hose because of the constant flexing in all temps. keep the hoses short, just long enough to give you a shot at the hose with the test light after the plug boot has been installed on the end. (dosen't have to be "snapped " or shoved into the snap lock inside the boot, just making contact) . from what you are describing from your timing light test your coil set is indeed breaking down if your getting an irattic flash pattern compaired to your other two coils. I picked up an entire coil (3) and wire set (6) (for a Gl1500 wing) of ebay for lest then $25 including shipping.(cheaper then just one replacement plug wire from the dealers) so if you want to try a coil to test it out. let me know.
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deez
Member
Posts: 74
Builder of the Locost Seven on Steroids
Lee's Summit Mo.
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« Reply #48 on: November 01, 2009, 03:56:42 PM » |
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Sorry I didn't fully answer you question . I get mine from NAPA, but any good auto parts store should be able to hook you up!
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dreamaker
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« Reply #49 on: November 01, 2009, 05:05:48 PM » |
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THANK YOU your info was very helpful and I will checkout ebay.
Dan
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deez
Member
Posts: 74
Builder of the Locost Seven on Steroids
Lee's Summit Mo.
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« Reply #50 on: November 19, 2009, 06:41:18 AM » |
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Just a quick wrap up of this thread, The bike now runs fantastic! what really blows me away is how well it actually ran on only 4 1/2 cylinders, and it was still smooth ! I rode it all the way from from Kansas to home (approx 50 miles) and other then the popping and uneven midrange , had no clue that anything was amiss. (i don't even think the previous owner had a clue or he wouldn't have been so inflexable about the price) any way a happey ending to a learning experience! These are incredable Bikes
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