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heavyd
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« on: July 20, 2016, 11:22:30 AM » |
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Is there a recommended alternative to the Dan Marc fuel shutoff that is available in Canada, or does anyone have a Canadian source for them? I have tried contacting Dan Marc for a shipping quote because I can't believe that the $50 quoted on the website form is accurate, but I've gotten no response. I'd like to replace them on both Valkyries since one is already apart and I have to pull the carbs on the other soon, so it's the perfect time.
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flash2002
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« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2016, 05:07:18 AM » |
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When you guys install an electric shutoff valve, do you install a by-pass hose and manual valve in case the electric one gives out ?
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heavyd
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« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2016, 06:07:05 AM » |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2016, 07:03:32 AM » |
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yeah it looks the same to me. Looks like it's got a wiring connector for something specific . You could either cut it off or get the female connector to hook it up. When you guys install an electric shutoff valve, do you install a by-pass hose and manual valve in case the electric one gives out ?
I didn't. I think the failure rate on them is pretty slight. |
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2016, 07:49:56 AM » |
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Both of those links, with free shipping, are for the same AFC #121 1/4" valve Dan-Marc is selling for $40 plus shipping - I paid $50.98 for mine from them - and that was economy first class mail shipping, if I had accepted their default UPS it would have been $65. Be sure to get this one, the smaller orifice one caused fuel starving on my Inzane trip pulling a trailer.
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Roidfingers
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« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2016, 09:55:08 AM » |
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Isnt there a link to the install somewhere?
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Paladin528
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« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2016, 11:09:46 AM » |
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I have the one recommended for the valkyrie which has the smaller orifice. I have had no issues with it and even ran a test with the valve installed and the valve removed.
In both cases the engine sustained RPMS above 4000 for extended periods with no issues. I could not tell the difference between the tests.
Teh other test was to shut off the petcock while riding down the road until the bike began to stumble. turning the petcock back on and seeing the recovery time. The recovery time without the valve installed was only slightly faster that with it installed.
Unless the valve is gummed up I cannot see how it caused starvation
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #8 on: July 21, 2016, 12:40:50 PM » |
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I have the one recommended for the valkyrie which has the smaller orifice. I have had no issues with it and even ran a test with the valve installed and the valve removed.
In both cases the engine sustained RPMS above 4000 for extended periods with no issues. I could not tell the difference between the tests.
Teh other test was to shut off the petcock while riding down the road until the bike began to stumble. turning the petcock back on and seeing the recovery time. The recovery time without the valve installed was only slightly faster that with it installed.
Unless the valve is gummed up I cannot see how it caused starvation
Riding normally uses a certain amount of fuel. Pulling a loaded trailer going up grades uses substantially more. |
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #9 on: July 21, 2016, 06:02:00 PM » |
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I have the one recommended for the valkyrie which has the smaller orifice. I have had no issues with it and even ran a test with the valve installed and the valve removed.
In both cases the engine sustained RPMS above 4000 for extended periods with no issues. I could not tell the difference between the tests.
Teh other test was to shut off the petcock while riding down the road until the bike began to stumble. turning the petcock back on and seeing the recovery time. The recovery time without the valve installed was only slightly faster that with it installed.
Unless the valve is gummed up I cannot see how it caused starvation
Good for you. Go ahead and ignore my advice I'm just full of it anyway - love to make stuff up to cause y'all consternation and waste your money. For the rest of you who are willing to listen to an Old Valk Hand, with four Valkyries, 19 years and 250,000 miles experience, get the bigger orifice Dan-Marc. I got as little as 18mpg pulling my camper trailer to Inzane, and had to keep my OEM tank pumped full not to have the engine stumble. (I have a belly tank plumbed to refill the main.) Especially when temps were high, speeds 70+. Aggravated by hill climbs as well. Deerslayer has not had trouble with the smaller orifice Dan-Marc but it has not been pushed as hard. Here's how tiny the smaller orifice is - mic'd at 0.152": The bigger one is a quarter inch, or 2.7 times the cross section area, and thus the flow, of the smaller one  I wrote up the install around 1999 here; it's still valid except get the bigger valve #121. http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Fuel_Shutoff/fuel_shutoff.html Also, keep the fuel path level or downhill; no loops in the line. You can get extra space in the line by replacing the OEM fuel T with a brass one, using screw-in barbs with the same thread as the Dan-Marc (connect to the T with a short nipple), 3/8" IPT IIRC. I set up Deerslayer and Jade both with latch relays and hidden momentary sw & LED, wired to the coil circuit (bl/wh) for anti-hijack and theft security, as well as fuel shutoff if the bike tips over. Mentioned in the article. |
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« Last Edit: July 21, 2016, 06:33:45 PM by MarkT »
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Roidfingers
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« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2016, 06:38:21 PM » |
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Thanks MarkT, I'm going with ur advise all the way. Seen a lot of your info on site. TY.
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N0tac0p
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« Reply #11 on: July 22, 2016, 04:59:34 AM » |
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did anyone answer the question about a bypass, incase of failure?
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big poppa pump
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« Reply #12 on: July 22, 2016, 07:02:57 AM » |
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I have the AFC-111 on both my Valks and I've never experienced any issues with fuel flow.
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VRCC#35870 VRCCDS#0266 1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod  |
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #13 on: July 22, 2016, 07:09:29 AM » |
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I have the one recommended for the valkyrie which has the smaller orifice. I have had no issues with it and even ran a test with the valve installed and the valve removed.
In both cases the engine sustained RPMS above 4000 for extended periods with no issues. I could not tell the difference between the tests.
Teh other test was to shut off the petcock while riding down the road until the bike began to stumble. turning the petcock back on and seeing the recovery time. The recovery time without the valve installed was only slightly faster that with it installed.
Unless the valve is gummed up I cannot see how it caused starvation
4000 RPM with no load uses a lot less fuel than 4000 RPM in WOT conditions. Did you do your test on a dyno? Pulling a trailer up a steep hill? Riding 140 km/h into a 60km/h headwind? If you're not pulling a trailer or riding at super-legal speeds you should be fine. |
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heavyd
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« Reply #14 on: July 22, 2016, 07:14:26 AM » |
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I just rode 140km/h into a tornado warning with wind gusts of 150km/h (so I was told later) and I can attest that it puts a hell of a load on the engine real fast. A couple of time I watched my speedo drop so fast it looked like the cable broke.
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Grandpot
Member
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
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« Reply #15 on: July 22, 2016, 07:40:46 AM » |
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When you guys install an electric shutoff valve, do you install a by-pass hose and manual valve in case the electric one gives out ?
Yes I did. Never had to use it, but it makes me feel good. |
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 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. |
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #16 on: July 22, 2016, 08:23:21 AM » |
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When you guys install an electric shutoff valve, do you install a by-pass hose and manual valve in case the electric one gives out ?
Yes I did. Never had to use it, but it makes me feel good. No I didn't. I'm thinking the point here, is choose your battles, and weigh benefits and risk exposure against cost and installation complexity - is it worth it? If you are never going to use fuel at a high rate, then you may never know the smaller solenoid might have a problem. However, the bigger solenoid's cost is only nominally more, and installation is the same, so if you might get a trailer later, this is an issue you won't need to revisit if you get the bigger one. OTOH, installing a bypass and manual valve does involve more effort and potential problems, to address a problem (failed Dan-Marc) that no one has reported (that I have seen). Potential problems are, starvation caused by extra long fuel line, fuel line complexity, or loops in the line - problems that HAVE been experienced and reported, including by me. Here's my ride on the road to Inzane. Haulin Oats, as it were, at 75 when the trailer is around 700#, results in Jade gettin VERY thirsty even with an Austone. Note this shot is at one of many fuel stops and the temp is close to 100°.  Yep. All that was in the trailer. Plus the air conditioner and other stuff you can't see.  |
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« Last Edit: July 22, 2016, 08:41:02 AM by MarkT »
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Valkorado
Member
Posts: 10494
VRCC DS 0242
Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.
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« Reply #17 on: July 22, 2016, 04:41:50 PM » |
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Yep. All that was in the trailer. Plus the air conditioner and other stuff you can't see. Glad I saw June's bike, was thinking maybe you trailered her as well! |
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Have you ever noticed when you're feeling really good, there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood? - John Prine 97 Tourer "Silver Bullet" 01 Interstate "Ruby"  |
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