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Author Topic: Rear rotor and new tire install  (Read 976 times)
Roidfingers
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Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« on: July 27, 2016, 08:13:39 AM »

Doing rear end service and I'm going to replace tire. Question. Do you need to remove the rotor for someone to remove and replace tire.? Also, I'd actually like to remove it in order to polish and seal rim easier. Can this be done? Whats the torque on the 6 allen head bolts? Cant' break them loose.Thanks
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big poppa pump
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San Antonio, TX


« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2016, 08:32:48 AM »

Use a breaker bar to break the fastener bond.

Torque is 31 ft/lbs. Make sure to use blue loctite before you put them back on.
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VRCC#35870
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1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

BobB
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One dragon on the tail of another.


« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2016, 08:50:29 AM »

The six bolts for the rotor are secured with lock-tight and are tough to brake free.  But I have removed mine multiple times and actually replaced the rotor.  The rotor need not be removed to pull the rear wheel off.  First, push the brake caliber in from the left side to back off the pads a bit.  Pull out the brake locking pin on the swing arm just in front of the axial.  Pull out the axial and remove the axial spacer.  Move the wheel to the left and as it drops down, pull the caliper off the rotor.  I always hang the caliper up with a light rope to insure there is no stress on the brake line...
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2016, 09:14:47 AM »

Quote
Torque is 31 ft/lbs. Make sure to use blue loctite before you put them back on.

Be careful with the re-torque, those suckers snap easily Angry
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big poppa pump
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San Antonio, TX


« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2016, 09:25:50 AM »

Quote
Torque is 31 ft/lbs. Make sure to use blue loctite before you put them back on.

Be careful with the re-torque, those suckers snap easily Angry

The rear bolts are actually not that bad, I haven't had one snap on me, yet!! On the other hand, the front rotor bolts...........$%@%$@#$@#$!#@
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VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2016, 10:25:20 AM »

Use a breaker bar to break the fastener bond.

Torque is 31 ft/lbs. Make sure to use blue loctite before you put them back on.

If the button head bolts are CRES aka stainless steel (SS)
make sure it's blue 243 and not blue 242.    243 is better for SS to aluminum, 242 does not work well for SS.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
F6Dave
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« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2016, 11:42:11 AM »

It's been a while since I replaced rotors.  Doesn't Honda call for the bolts to be replaced?  I'm not sure it's really necessary in most cases.
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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2016, 12:28:51 PM »

Taking off the rotor isn't necessary but then it depends on who you're gonna get to replace the tire. Like, they may accidentally drop the wheel on the rotor. Other than that it's just extra work.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2016, 01:07:19 PM »

It's been a while since I replaced rotors.  Doesn't Honda call for the bolts to be replaced?  I'm not sure it's really necessary in most cases.

yes lawyer stuff. oem bolts have locktite on them. use new LT and good to go.
the aluminum bolt holes would strip before the bolts are over torqued to failure. IMO
« Last Edit: July 28, 2016, 05:07:15 AM by 98valk (aka CA) » Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


WWW
« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2016, 04:28:19 PM »

Doing rear end service and I'm going to replace tire. Question. Do you need to remove the rotor for someone to remove and replace tire.? Also, I'd actually like to remove it in order to polish and seal rim easier. Can this be done? Whats the torque on the 6 allen head bolts? Cant' break them loose.Thanks

No, you shouldn't have to remove the rotor for a tire change.  If the person doing the tire change is that incompetent as to damage the brake rotor (or anything else), well just hope you can somehow learn that before giving him your wheel.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2016, 05:08:09 PM »

Doing rear end service and I'm going to replace tire. Question. Do you need to remove the rotor for someone to remove and replace tire.? Also, I'd actually like to remove it in order to polish and seal rim easier. Can this be done? Whats the torque on the 6 allen head bolts? Cant' break them loose.Thanks

No, you shouldn't have to remove the rotor for a tire change.  If the person doing the tire change is that incompetent as to damage the brake rotor (or anything else), well just hope you can somehow learn that before giving him your wheel.

Yes, if you want to polish your rim, then removing the rotor would make life a LOT easier.
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F6Dave
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« Reply #11 on: July 28, 2016, 05:57:17 AM »

It's been a while since I replaced rotors.  Doesn't Honda call for the bolts to be replaced?  I'm not sure it's really necessary in most cases.

yes lawyer stuff. oem bolts have locktite on them. use new LT and good to go.
the aluminum bolt holes would strip before the bolts are over torqued to failure. IMO

You're probably right.  I'm sure the lawyers get extra paranoid with brake components.  I thought I'd read somewhere that the rotor bolts were the torque-to-yield type.  But I reused mine when replacing the rotors 80K miles ago and all is still fine.  In fact, I use Honda pads with EBC rotors so I really live on the edge!
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98valk
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Posts: 13477


South Jersey


« Reply #12 on: July 28, 2016, 06:46:44 AM »

It's been a while since I replaced rotors.  Doesn't Honda call for the bolts to be replaced?  I'm not sure it's really necessary in most cases.

yes lawyer stuff. oem bolts have locktite on them. use new LT and good to go.
the aluminum bolt holes would strip before the bolts are over torqued to failure. IMO

  In fact, I use Honda pads with EBC rotors so I really live on the edge!

that must look cool with flames coming off your rotors!  Grin
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #13 on: July 28, 2016, 08:11:13 AM »

Sometime ago, I posted about the rotor bolts being torque-to-yield. No proof, just my opinion. I took 5 bolts, measured the length and then torqued them to the specified amount. Then removed them and measured the length again. Each time, the bolt length increased and the bolts were noticeably thinner in the middle. Some stretched as much os .020" each time. Eventual they would snap. Forget about torquing these to the Honda specs, snug them up good with a little blue loc-tite and all is good.
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So many roads, so little time
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h13man
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To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #14 on: July 28, 2016, 08:21:54 AM »

Use a breaker bar to break the fastener bond.

Torque is 31 ft/lbs. Make sure to use blue loctite before you put them back on.

Or apply a little heat to the fastener which breaks down the Loctite for easy removal if the area you are working on will allow. A high heat electric gun will work or a light use of a portable propane torch. 200 degrees is good working temp for this application.
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