Spark plug reading

[heavyd]

Can someone weigh in on what my issue/issues might be? I have 5 plugs that look like the one on the right. One of my cylinders on the left side is popping, I can't tell for sure which one but I suspect it is the left plug which looks different than the rest. This all started after a carb clean/redeye rebuild, and shiny Desmog. I had two mixture screw tools that I thought would work but one broke and the other didn't fit so the about 2am the night before I left on a 4 day trip, I let the engine cool off so I could reach in with a stubby redeye tool and set the mixtures to 2.25 turns. I knew that should be rich, but that seemed safer for the engine than lean. I have a KnN filter with foam pre-filter, stock jets and stock pipes. I thought it was an air leak somewhere but I can't find it with ether or a propane torch. Hoping someone has an idea that doesn't involve pulling the carbs back out this weekend.

[Ricky-D]

They all look good to me. I don't see any problem with any of them.

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[pancho]

Here is some information that CA had posted awhile ago

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

While I agree with Ricky-D, that neither of them are showing any problems in the combustion chamber, I would open the pilot screw 1/8 to 1/4 on all of them, and a bit more on the one on the left, It looks to be running leaner than the others,, (that is just a personal preference) why the indication on the strap is so different,,, I have no idea.

[h13man]

Just curious how many mile are on the plugs? My Valk want hers changed @ 10,000 mi.on the nose or it will lose one. Happened the last to sets. The last time I checked the resistance on all the old ones and new. New 5000 ohms, old ones 3800-4000 except the bad one, zero. I'm running a K&N w/o prefilter. With that set I noticed the exhaust was getting a "gassy" smell @ idle. They all looked a little brown on the ceramic tip. My bad one looked alot like the one on the left.

[98valk]

Here is some information that CA had posted awhile ago

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

While I agree with Ricky-D, that neither of them are showing any problems in the combustion chamber, I would open the pilot screw 1/8 to 1/4 on all of them, and a bit more on the one on the left, It looks to be running leaner than the others,, (that is just a personal preference) why the indication on the strap is so different,,, I have no idea.

the link is not flawless due to the unleaded gas today.
 A lot of the latest info indicate that plug reading really cannot be done esp the insulator for color, unless really bad things are happening. fuel additives will shown up on the insulator.
 strap reading can be done, all the way down inside the plug where the insulator meets the plug body can be done and the edge/end of the thread body can be done.
those plugs look good and usual.
add one washer shim to only the front carb needles.
which cylinders are the plugs from?
last time carbs where digi-sync'd?

[heavyd]

Thanks for the info so far guys. Those plugs have 2200km on them and the carbs were digisync'd at the same time. I agree that they look like the mixture could be a bit richer, but it is already a lot richer than before I rebuilt them and it was running great then. Well great aside from the vacuum leaks and the gas leaks the hard starting and the wonky idle. But once you got past all that it ran perfect. lol. I have a motion pro right angle screwdriver on the way so that I can set the mixture properly with my digisync and my standalone tach.

I didn't notice when I had them in my hand, but now that I look at the picture on my computer, it looks like the tip on the left one is bent. I guess I will pull it and check again. Also worth noting that it was popping when before I changed to these plugs. I had a hotter set of plugs in to see if it would fix another issue, then rebuilt the carbs, got the popping, so I switched back to stock plugs.