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Author Topic: Newbie need help… Multiple questions  (Read 1224 times)
Whiskey Bravo
Member
*****
Posts: 55


« on: August 04, 2016, 04:49:00 PM »

Hi everyone,
I'm the proud new owner of a 97 Valkyrie… But I've got some questions I could use a little help and insight

I guess I should start by saying that I thoroughly read and researched many the posts on the board and I still have some unanswered questions. 

I had the float stuck on one carburetor.  I believe it was the number three carburetor tapped it, as suggested by many of you …fix the problem.… also I bought a can of BG 44 and put about one third of it in a full tank of gas(I just did this today and have not had a chance to let it burn through yet). 


I don't know if my bike is running as smooth as it should.  Is it supposed to run more like a Harley, or more like a katana?

Exhaust leak?  I've read the posts that state there is a deliberate whole in the bottom of one of the pipes but I keep smelling exhaust fumes when at idle (not enough to give me a headache but it is there).  I don't know if this is normal or not and  I can hear a slight exhaust tick

Transmission shifts: are they supposed to be smooth as silk or for lack of a better term clanking and banging like my old Honda 350


Clutch pressure… I realize it's hydraulic but it is very tiresome, almost like it was a cable driven system

Headlight… Is the Cyclops replacement headlight bulb the way to go?…  Also, what bulbs do suggest for the Speedo and tachometer

I'm in Southern California.  What tire pressure should I run front and rear


What is the consensus as to spark plug brand and gap recommendations

Finally, wax and polish recommendations…


Thanks everyone for your time and consideration in answering my questions

Yours truly,

Whiskey Bravo


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Bighead
Member
*****
Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2016, 05:10:36 PM »

Well Whiskey welcome to the insanity that is Valkyrie ownership cooldude
Engine should run smooth enough to balance a nickel on the head while at idle.
Exhaust smell could mean it is running a bit rich.
Transmissions are clunky.
Clutch shouldn't be hard at all to pull.
Headlight your choice.



How many miles on her ? And where are you located.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2016, 06:04:43 PM »


There's a site vendor - you'll see his ad at the top of the page some
of the time...

http://thedigisync.com

He sells a "smart switch". It is a little wiring harness, made
from simple components, but constructed with OEM quality.
Read about that as a headlight option.

My bike shifts pretty dang good, I don't know what to say
about that...

The hydraulics can work great... look at the fluid in your
master cylinders, maybe you need to do a bunch of flushing
and bleeding.

motor = smooth = "the nickle trick"

OEM spark plugs.

I don't know what kind of tires you're running, but 40 front
and 43-45 back is probably good...

What color is your 97?



-Mike
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The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2016, 06:46:44 PM »

Hi everyone,
I'm the proud new owner of a 97 Valkyrie… But I've got some questions I could use a little help and insight

I guess I should start by saying that I thoroughly read and researched many the posts on the board and I still have some unanswered questions. 

I had the float stuck on one carburetor.  I believe it was the number three carburetor tapped it, as suggested by many of you …fix the problem.… also I bought a can of BG 44 and put about one third of it in a full tank of gas(I just did this today and have not had a chance to let it burn through yet). 


I don't know if my bike is running as smooth as it should.  Is it supposed to run more like a Harley, or more like a katana?

Exhaust leak?  I've read the posts that state there is a deliberate whole in the bottom of one of the pipes but I keep smelling exhaust fumes when at idle (not enough to give me a headache but it is there).  I don't know if this is normal or not and  I can hear a slight exhaust tick

Transmission shifts: are they supposed to be smooth as silk or for lack of a better term clanking and banging like my old Honda 350


Clutch pressure… I realize it's hydraulic but it is very tiresome, almost like it was a cable driven system

Headlight… Is the Cyclops replacement headlight bulb the way to go?…  Also, what bulbs do suggest for the Speedo and tachometer

I'm in Southern California.  What tire pressure should I run front and rear


What is the consensus as to spark plug brand and gap recommendations

Finally, wax and polish recommendations…


Thanks everyone for your time and consideration in answering my questions

Yours truly,

Whiskey Bravo



Welcome W.B. I'll add just a couple things to what the others have said. Your engine should run very smooth. The ticking might be loose exhaust headers or valves needing adjustment. Both easy jobs. Your clutch and both brakes likely need flushing and cleaning. Also easy. The shifting is what it is. Synthetic oil will help, but these machines aren't known for their slick shifting. We have a SoCal chapter with some great guys. Post over there and maybe get some firsthand help. We are doing a ride to Prescott in October. If you can make it I would be happy to synch your carbs with the DigiSync . Do you know any of the bikes history ? Has it been sitting, is it desmoged ?
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Tfrank59
Member
*****
Posts: 1364


'98 Tourer

Western Washington


WWW
« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2016, 07:54:23 PM »

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase. I think most your questions are going to be answered if you read through the shoptalk pages. That's what I did when I first bought my bike and I did all maintenance that I could right off the bat, and when it comes to more intensive stuff these guys are awesome.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2016, 09:24:26 PM »

I found shifting smooth, but requires some force. An oil change can change that. But I would suggest a search, EVERYONE has their own preference.

Do a Youtube for "Valkyrie nickel trick". I think that will find it.

Tire pressure should be posted on the side of your tire, only go up to that when cold. Post the tire type/name, and others may suggest a different pressure for riding comfort or?

Spark plug, OEM. Check your mpg, and when it changes, change your plug. Some have mentioned they have thousands on their plugs. I went to iridium's this year, figure I'll never change them again. For regular plugs, check the gape every while.

Keep an eye on that float, and research hydrolock. Test your petcock that it's working right.

And Welcome to the group!

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1999 Black with custom paint IS

cogsman
Member
*****
Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2016, 03:58:19 PM »

Hey Whiskey, I have a 97 Standard myself. I've had some repair adventures over the last year. In regards to the bulbs for the instruments: I ordered some blue LED replacements. My bike is purple and the blue is deep enough that it is "purple-y" so it gives a good effect. Low power, very resilient, very bright. I would recommend them.

They are very easy to replace, just pop the old ones out and plug the new ones in. If they don't work, just reverse the sides.
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Whiskey Bravo
Member
*****
Posts: 55


« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2016, 04:18:17 PM »

Hello again everyone,

Thank you for the very warm welcome and the helpful advice. 

I really appreciate it


My bike is a 97 red and white, just hit 60,000 miles… I'm not sure if I'll be able to make the Prescott ride, but I do appreciate the invitation.  I'd love to have my carb synced

thanks everyone for the  suggestions

I have to do something about the headlight!…  Way too dim… Very dangerous in a Los Angeles…

The plan is to change all the fluids engine oil synthetic(mobile 1), rear-ended oil synthetic(mobile 1… Proper weight), flush the brake and clutch lines, and replace spark plugs with  NGK Iridium IX Plug Spark Plugs  DPR7EIX-9 , and flush clean refill radiator with non-sulfate antifreeze

One other question: rear brake seems to need a lot of pressure in order to reduce speed and stop.  I don't know if it's hard to stop because cheap pads were installed… But I'll check it out… Any suggestions as to brake pad type?

I haven't done the nickel test yet.… But my idol seems to be a little erratic… Bouncing 50 to 100 RPM up or down from 800 to 900 at idle

Otherwise, I'm having a hell of a time and a big smile … Every time I ride… Then when I get home I find I have lumps on my head from jumping up and down hitting the ceiling… LOL

Thanks again,

Whiskey Bravo






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The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2016, 04:25:37 PM »

Hello again everyone,

Thank you for the very warm welcome and the helpful advice. 

I really appreciate it


My bike is a 97 red and white, just hit 60,000 miles… I'm not sure if I'll be able to make the Prescott ride, but I do appreciate the invitation.  I'd love to have my carb synced

thanks everyone for the  suggestions

I have to do something about the headlight!…  Way too dim… Very dangerous in a Los Angeles…

The plan is to change all the fluids engine oil synthetic(mobile 1), rear-ended oil synthetic(mobile 1… Proper weight), flush the brake and clutch lines, and replace spark plugs with  NGK Iridium IX Plug Spark Plugs  DPR7EIX-9 , and flush clean refill radiator with non-sulfate antifreeze

One other question: rear brake seems to need a lot of pressure in order to reduce speed and stop.  I don't know if it's hard to stop because cheap pads were installed… But I'll check it out… Any suggestions as to brake pad type?

I haven't done the nickel test yet.… But my idol seems to be a little erratic… Bouncing 50 to 100 RPM up or down from 800 to 900 at idle

Otherwise, I'm having a hell of a time and a big smile … Every time I ride… Then when I get home I find I have lumps on my head from jumping up and down hitting the ceiling… LOL

Thanks again,

Whiskey Bravo







I have a 100/90 watt bulb in my standard. It helps a lot. I don't have but would highly recommend the SmartSwitch to go long with it. One of our members makes them. I suspect your idle is erratic due to some degraded vacuum hoses and plugs. A desmog is the best way to take care of that, along with new vacuum plugs.
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Tfrank59
Member
*****
Posts: 1364


'98 Tourer

Western Washington


WWW
« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2016, 04:40:03 PM »

Rough idle sounds like a dirty fuel system or vacuum leak?
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Bighead
Member
*****
Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2016, 04:56:48 PM »

Idle is probably a vaccum leak.
Brake pads I use OEM Honda a bit more  but worth it IMHO.
how much front/rear you using to stop? Personally about 75% front to 25% rear for me.
Use too much rear in a quick stop and you will find yourself getting up off the ground with missing bits of tissue coolsmiley
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
Gryphon Rider
Member
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2016, 04:59:34 PM »

If the emissions system is Unmodified (i.e. Not de-smogged), the ticking sound could very well be the PAIR valves, which is normal. The ineffective rear brake could be because the pedal assembly needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and lubed. It made a huge difference for my rear brake. When running properly, the engine is super smooth at all speeds, smoother than any straight four.
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DK
Member
*****
Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2016, 05:03:46 PM »

You can help the clunky shifting on up shifts by "preloading" the shift lever so that when you clutch, it slips quickly into the next gear.

Downshift sequentially at lower speeds as you go to lower gears & blip throttle to match speeds of engine & transmission.

If all else fails, take a look at the "simple pivot shifter mod". It makes a big difference in shift smoothness.
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
bassman
Member
*****
Posts: 2157


« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2016, 05:30:35 PM »

Always found this site informative and hopefully you will too....compliments of Rattlebars from long ago.....

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/
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Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14774


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2016, 10:45:08 AM »

Welcome again.  You gots a fine year and color there.  BUT, no one trusts it until we see PICTURES.

I wouldn't waste money on fancy plugs.  Go to autozone and get plain old NGK (factory spec) for a couple bucks a plug.

Try turning the idle up a tad so its around 1,000 and it may smooth out some.

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