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Author Topic: New owner ponders the low beam REDUX  (Read 1682 times)
Glenlivet
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Hope British Columbia


« on: August 08, 2016, 08:55:56 AM »

Hi all, new owner of an immaculate 1998 Valkyrie Touring that looks as though it never left the showroom. Thank you, thank you. Smiley  I'll get a photo up if it ever stops raining here.

Upon purchase I had to ride it home (oh the humanity!) at night, and I was amazed at how entirely poor the low beam was. Amazed at the rest of the bike for sure and all in a good way, but that light! The high beam was just fine for the very rare times I could flick it on for a few seconds, traffic being what it was, but that low beam put out little more than a sickly yellow glimmer that looked as though it might match the lumens of Ebeneezer Scrooge's candle. I really thought that it must be some sort of daytime running light, or maybe it was an emergency bulb that comes on if the filament of the real low beam should suddenly fail, but on examination the feeble light does indeed seem to issue from the main bulb. Whatup with that?
I am amazed that any manufacturer of vehicles intended for use on public roads would equip one with such a poor light. I found myself having to find a speed in which I hoped not to overdrive my visibility while still hoping it was fast enough that some drowsy cage driver didn't ram me from behind. I pretty much white knuckled it home.
What to do about that?
Of course add-on driving lights would not be a good bet as these don't (to my knowledge) have a focused cutoff line so not to dazzle oncoming motorists, so I'd need something that works with the stock bucket and lens. I've read threads that advocate replacing the bulb with a Sylvania product and of people putting in 100 - 80 watt replacement bulbs. Is this what most people do? Do others find that the stock Valk low beam literally sucks as bad as this one? (one post I saw here likens the low beam to the hole left after one micturates into the snow Smiley )
Did I get a particular dud light? I intend to take it apart and have a good long stare at the bulb to see if it isn't some sort of mistake.
Otherwise this Honda is a dream! (Actually no, the dream was an old Honda 305 from the 60's, but what the hey)
It's going to be fun. At least in the daytime.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2016, 06:49:20 PM by Glenlivet » Logged
csj
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I used to be a wolfboy, but I'm alright NOOOOOWWWW

Peterborough Ontario Canada


« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2016, 09:33:42 AM »

I've got one of those Sylvania Ultra bulbs, quite expensive up here, but gives me
a decent high beam, and an acceptable low beam.

The OEM bulb before that was much worse. I believe there are even more potent
bulbs available, but you gotta watch the watts. You can melt/wreck the reflector.

Having a set of spots is a really good idea; one, to keep the cages from not seeing you,
and two, if your main bulb dies on you at night (happened to me twice), you got
something to get home with.
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doubletee
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VRCC # 22269

Fort Wayne, IN


« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2016, 09:38:13 AM »

A bulb's brightness (is that a word?   laugh ) slowly decreases over time. If that's the original bulb, it might simply be old. Grab a new Sylvania Silverstar. It might also be a good idea to check the light's aim. Could be as simple as adjusting it.
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2016, 10:09:14 AM »

I've had auxiliary lights on my Valk almost since new, but I don't remember the headlight being insufficient compared to my previous bikes.  I would suggest putting in a new bulb; like doubletee said, halogen bulbs decrease in brightness as they're used.
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2016, 11:16:41 AM »

I agree,,,,   first thing to do is replace the halogen lamp and see what you think.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2016, 11:54:29 AM »

Of course I have to mention that adding a SmartSwitch to the headlight circuit will increase the brightness of your headlight by up to 40%. Your gauges also will be brighter, your headlight lasts longer and you won't be risking melting your start switch eventually. TheDigiSync.com  cooldude
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2016, 12:59:34 PM »


I believe there are even more potent bulbs available, but you gotta watch the watts. You can melt/wreck the reflector.


Wrong. Sorry but that is just bad information. There are not H4 bulbs with more power than mine that I know of. I have run a 130/90 bulb on Deerslayer since 1998, 120,000 miles with no harm to the reflector or crystal. They light up the road clearly for a measured half mile, if you aim them right.  And still no flashing from oncoming, with them dimmed. With dim at 90w, there's still enough light to see the road well. Even so I also have powerfull spots as well.  Ya can't have too much light - as long as they are aimed right, and your alternator is up to snuff. Get the bulbs here, $15.99, use the pulldown to select the watts. http://www.compacc.com/p/kuryakyn-replacement-headlight-bulbs

I have installed the same on Jade and Marty - 3 of my 4 Valkyries.  Of course they all have my headlight relay mod, and high-power socket. I wrote this tech article right after I did the mod in '98, and it has been archived to the Shop talk page on the club here. (That archive has not been updated like my page has.) http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html

You can get the same power upgrade from BonS's smart switch, he posted above. His is packaged nicely, plug N play as opposed to buying the relays, wire, and fuse (and I recommend, a high-power plug), spending less but wiring it up yourself.

BTW, it's also likely your headlight needs aiming.  Both used Valks I bought needed it - and also when I replace the headlight on any of them. When you change the bulb, typically re-aim is needed because the filiments are usually in different positions.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2016, 03:41:03 PM by MarkT » Logged


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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2016, 01:16:45 PM »

This bulb gives the best balance between bright and durable, there are brighter ones but they don't last very long, the Xtravision is a lot brighter than OEM

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Oldnick
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Western Australia


« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2016, 01:41:39 PM »

I am a light freak. Always have been. Smiley  I have fitted two LED driving/spots to my girl....daylight Smiley........and yet I am going to use new optics to make them better Cheesy. I also fitted a much better bulb to the stock headlight, cause yea it was woeful. But what I get is, when I dip if a vehicle is approaching, I still sometimes think I have lost low beam! The focus cutoff is so aggressive that _nothing_ gets further than 15-20 metres in front. Nice for the other guy, but suddenly, just when you have headlights in your face, you have nothing of your own.

So yeah get  one of the super bulbs mentioned, but  expect to be startled when you drop to  low beam.

Options are to adjust the headlight angle to higher, _just_ avoiding pissing off other drivers,  or get one of the LED bulbs, that will have their own beam pattern. Those are a crap shoot for quality and beam sculpture. Do NOT buy cheap! DAMHIKT. But even one that  is a real headlight may have an annoying pattern.

Nick
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Nick
May God save us from believers!
Bone
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« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2016, 02:38:52 AM »

Quote
A bulb's brightness (is that a word?   laugh ) slowly decreases over time

Changed the bulb in my 98 Tourer (18 yrs.old) any bulb will be an improvement the guys have posted good replacements.

The SmartSwitch made a big improvement.
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Oldnick
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Western Australia


« Reply #10 on: August 09, 2016, 04:36:03 AM »

Hah! I bet you won't find a bulb that lasts 18 years though, these days. I see so many vehicles like SSC han 5 YO with at least 1 dead bulb lately
 My wife's Subaru has 4, at 3 years old. Given that you have to tear the bodywork apart to fix it I wonder if there is not a service oriented plot.....or just a seriously crap lot of globes....

Nick
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Nick
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Moofner
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Colorado Springs, CO


« Reply #11 on: August 09, 2016, 06:41:22 AM »

I installed an LED bulb AND got the smartswitch. You'll see an improvement on light output by doing either one. I did the LED bulb first and noticed a momentary dip in output when I hit the brakes. Installed the smartswitch and that no longer happens!

Make sure to get an LED bulb that outputs light on both sides of the reflector. My first bulb only hit the top portion of the bulb housing. I'll be testing my second bulb here shortly to make sure it fills the whole thing and lights the road up to my satisfaction. Sticking to incandescents isn't a bad idea either, and getting a smartswitch or relay will make it work like a champ.
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csj
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I used to be a wolfboy, but I'm alright NOOOOOWWWW

Peterborough Ontario Canada


« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2016, 07:08:01 AM »

Quote
I believe there are even more potent bulbs available, but you gotta watch the watts. You can melt/wreck the reflector.


Wrong. Sorry but that is just bad information.


Well, I met a local guy who did melt his reflector. It's been a while but he tore the
reflective part/coating out of the bucket (beats me how). It seems he was using a 100W creature
of his own design.

Wouldn't have mentioned it if i didn't have some practical example.
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A guy called me a Ba$tard, I said in my case it's an accident
of birth, in your case you're a self made man.
MarkT
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« Reply #13 on: August 09, 2016, 08:08:25 AM »

Quote
I believe there are even more potent bulbs available, but you gotta watch the watts. You can melt/wreck the reflector.


Wrong. Sorry but that is just bad information.


Well, I met a local guy who did melt his reflector. It's been a while but he tore the
reflective part/coating out of the bucket (beats me how). It seems he was using a 100W creature
of his own design.

Wouldn't have mentioned it if i didn't have some practical example.

Well Ok.  I also have extensive experience with it and have not seen any heat damage with many years of use.  Other than melting the first plug before I replaced it with a high-power one from NAPA. Of course that happened on a road trip - to the first InZane in Ohio. Year 2000 maybe?  Perhaps your friend's bulb design did make a lot of heat.  I have stuck with the ones from Competition Accessories, link above.  One does need to upgrade the wiring if you are going to increase the watts, as I said. or even if not increasing it.  Honda used really marginal wiring on the headlight, and no relays, with a lot of load on the expensive make/break starter and hi-lo switches.
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Glenlivet
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Hope British Columbia


« Reply #14 on: August 09, 2016, 09:02:12 AM »

Thanks for all the tips. I'll put in a relay for sure, and look at getting at least one of the better bulbs. I appreciate the suggestions to alter the aim of the light but the high beam is in perfect alignment and any altering to the bucket direction would throw that one out of ideal, that and the cutoff line for low beam appears to be in the optimal spot, just below approaching car motorist's head level on level road. It bears repeating just how seriously dim and yellow this low beam is, adjusting the aim as a cure would seem like raising or lowering your candle and expecting great improvements in visibility. Smiley
But it's all good stuff and I appreciate all suggestions.
It's funny MarkT, I have a Ducati 450 Desmo R/T 1971 in my garage right now.
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Glenlivet
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Hope British Columbia


« Reply #15 on: August 17, 2016, 06:48:36 PM »

Well I rode to the nearest CanTire today and grabbed a recommended by you'se guys Silverstar Ultra bulb (Near $40.00, but what price vision?) and on returning home, prepared to install same. Upon opening the bucket and examining the bulb within, let's say the light bulb came on (the metaphoric one).

By the look of that badly blackened and blistered thing lurking in the headlight bucket it's a wonder I had any headlight at all!
I'd imagine what I'd wondered at, and what manufacturer would ever send out a bike with a light like that must have in fact been some sort of daytime running light independent of low beam, or perhaps it was some sort of Hail Mary last ditch light wired in and intended to keep the rider alive if the filament being used should fail suddenly on a dark road.
Anyway, most of the bulb except for a small patch beside the high beam filament is black as Natoby's arse and the whole thing is the saddest looking still-functioning bulb I have seen yet. No wonder it appeared to be so awful!

Here it is though I confess, the photo is just an excuse to show off my tank bib, just installed today. Cheesy

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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #16 on: August 17, 2016, 06:56:11 PM »

Well I rode to the nearest CanTire today and grabbed a recommended by you'se guys Silverstar Ultra bulb (Near $40.00, but what price vision?) and on returning home, prepared to install same. Upon opening the bucket and examining the bulb within, let's say the light bulb came on (the metaphoric one).

By the look of that badly blackened and blistered thing lurking in the headlight bucket it's a wonder I had any headlight at all!
I'd imagine what I'd wondered at, and what manufacturer would ever send out a bike with a light like that must have in fact been some sort of daytime running light independent of low beam, or perhaps it was some sort of Hail Mary last ditch light wired in and intended to keep the rider alive if the filament being used should fail suddenly on a dark road.
Anyway, most of the bulb except for a small patch beside the high beam filament is black as Natoby's arse and the whole thing is the saddest looking still-functioning bulb I have seen yet. No wonder it appeared to be so awful!

Here it is though I confess, the photo is just an excuse to show off my tank bib, just installed today. Cheesy


Damn, I've never seen one that bad.
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #17 on: August 18, 2016, 06:54:46 AM »

It makes me think I should replace my H4s, just due to age and use.
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #18 on: August 21, 2016, 07:45:06 PM »

I am now selling a bracket to fit a DayMaker LED into the Valkyrie. This is another option recently made available for your consideration.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,89307.0.html
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #19 on: August 21, 2016, 08:06:21 PM »

The blackening of the quartz envelope (bulb) is from low voltage. In normal operation, i.e., full voltage, the metal filament vaporizes and does not stick and blacken the envelope. This is why dimming a quartz halogen bulb is not recommended. Regardless of your choice of new lamp you should correct the low voltage issue.
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Glenlivet
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Hope British Columbia


« Reply #20 on: August 27, 2016, 06:42:13 PM »

Thanks for the tip. I'll test the voltage at the socket.
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #21 on: August 27, 2016, 06:52:16 PM »

Thanks for the tip. I'll test the voltage at the socket.
Be sure to do it when a bulb is in the socket. Otherwise you won't see the voltage drop due to the draw of the bulb. Then compare the voltage at the battery against the voltage at the bulb to see the drop through the sum of your wiring harness, ignition switch, handlebar switches and connectors.
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