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« on: August 22, 2016, 06:03:34 AM » |
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Kill switch is in bike run position.
I had an Eastern Beaver PC 8 fitted by BigBF. It runs extra driving lights, heated handle bar grips, heated jacket, battery tender.
Did a 600 mile run up the BRP and back with no problems 2 weeks ago.
Had the bike out of the garage this morning cleaning wheels. Turned the key to crank 'er up after cleaning to help dry water spray off.
Heard a click and no bike start. The little red oil light on the instrument gauge flickered each time I tried to start the bike.
Battery terminals are tight.
Fuses from the fuse block are good.
I haven't checked the main 30 amp fuse yet. Wanted to get the electrical brains among you cranked up.
Off to check main fuse.
If that has blown what might cause it? Bad ground? Rubbed wiring after rewire of accessories?
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« Last Edit: August 30, 2016, 07:06:58 AM by Britman »
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« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2016, 06:21:17 AM » |
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30 amp fuse is good as are the connections next to it. No corrosion.
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« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2016, 06:26:38 AM » |
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55 amp dog bone fuse is good as well.
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« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2016, 06:31:16 AM » |
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10 amp ignition switch fuse is good as well.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2016, 06:34:49 AM » |
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Check your battery.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2016, 06:38:45 AM » |
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Check your battery.
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It's right there  Bought a year ago. |
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2016, 06:47:50 AM » |
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First, disconnect, clean, and reconnect battery connections, including negative connection to engine. If that doesn't work, try boosting from a non-running car.
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« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2016, 06:50:23 AM » |
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First, disconnect, clean, and reconnect battery connections, including negative connection to engine. If that doesn't work, try boosting from a non-running car.
Where do I find the neg connection to engine. Please everyone remember I'M AN ELECTRICAL DUNCE! |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15220
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #8 on: August 22, 2016, 06:52:18 AM » |
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Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.
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« Reply #9 on: August 22, 2016, 06:58:52 AM » |
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Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.
I'm not doing that because I don't know what that means. It's electricity the work of the devil.  |
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mark81
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« Reply #10 on: August 22, 2016, 07:25:11 AM » |
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Hold the start button in while you rock the kill switch back and forth.
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1997 Honda Valkyrie 1981 Honda CB750 Custom  |
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« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2016, 07:40:03 AM » |
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Hold the start button in while you rock the kill switch back and forth.
Did that. heard some faint clicking like a relay noise and the oil light cam on without flickering. Sign to clean the starter switch? Has never given me cause for concern up to now. |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #12 on: August 22, 2016, 07:56:18 AM » |
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Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.
I'm not doing that because I don't know what that means. It's electricity the work of the devil. Take this thing off, like you're checking to see if it is OK:  Hold onto the handle of a screwdriver and lay the blade across the connections where the relay was. You starter should start cranking away. If it doesn't, people here (not me) will have more to go on to help you. -Mike "I think electricity is the work of the devil too..." |
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« Reply #13 on: August 22, 2016, 08:16:35 AM » |
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Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.
I'm not doing that because I don't know what that means. It's electricity the work of the devil. Take this thing off, like you're checking to see if it is OK: Hold onto the handle of a screwdriver and lay the blade across the connections where the relay was. You starter should start cranking away. If it doesn't, people here (not me) will have more to go on to help you. -Mike "I think electricity is the work of the devil too..." Will it spark like crazy? Do I use a rubber handle screwdriver? I got quite a few English 220v slaps when I was younger. Don't like the shock at all! |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #14 on: August 22, 2016, 08:23:54 AM » |
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Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.
I'm not doing that because I don't know what that means. It's electricity the work of the devil. Take this thing off, like you're checking to see if it is OK: Hold onto the handle of a screwdriver and lay the blade across the connections where the relay was. You starter should start cranking away. If it doesn't, people here (not me) will have more to go on to help you. -Mike "I think electricity is the work of the devil too..." Will it spark like crazy? Do I use a rubber handle screwdriver? I got quite a few English 220v slaps when I was younger. Don't like the shock at all! I've heard people talking about it, and I did it by mistake last time I checked the relay. No sparks and my bike still works . It should be as if you are in neutral, bike off, and you press the starter button. The starter should start cranking away. I pretty darn sure my key was even off, it by-passes a bunch of circuitry, that's why it helps knowledgeable people give suggestions about where your problem might be. You'll either be "good to there", or not. Hopefully some of those knowledgeable people will chime in here... -Mike |
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longrider
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« Reply #15 on: August 22, 2016, 08:31:46 AM » |
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I'd lay odds on the battery. Use a set of jumper cables from your vehicle. This will eliminate a good or bad battery. Also REMEMBER when you jump the terminals on the starter relay the motor will turn over and the m/c NEEDS to be in neutral or it will move of the stand
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falconbrother
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« Reply #16 on: August 22, 2016, 08:33:23 AM » |
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I would still verify that the battery is good. I've been riding a long time a seen a few batteries die in a year.
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« Reply #17 on: August 22, 2016, 08:58:05 AM » |
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Doing the screwdriver thing was a bust. No sparks, no nuttin. I plugged in the battery tneder and turned the key and this relay? made a whining noise.  I'll leave the battery tender on for a while longer to see if that makes a difference and if the bike then starts I'll whip the battery out and take it to get checked. Busy looking for battery receipt right now  |
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« Reply #18 on: August 22, 2016, 09:02:47 AM » |
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That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place  Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015. It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping. Bought from Chromebattery.com |
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« Reply #19 on: August 22, 2016, 09:13:02 AM » |
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Turned key on. All the idiot lights came on.
Not enough juice yet to crank.
Seems like the battery is has shuffled off it mortal coil.
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« Reply #20 on: August 22, 2016, 09:13:51 AM » |
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Check your battery.
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You could be !00% correct. |
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old2soon
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« Reply #21 on: August 22, 2016, 09:51:33 AM » |
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Jump M/C battery from yer cage. Paul-you're not on an I/S-are you? RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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pancho
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« Reply #22 on: August 22, 2016, 01:03:37 PM » |
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That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015. It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping. Bought from Chromebattery.com Wow... a $40 motorcycle battery with free shipping.... well, got you a year and a half Britman. Sounds like my kind of shopping, glad you got the problem solved. |
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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« Reply #23 on: August 22, 2016, 01:10:56 PM » |
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That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015. It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping. Bought from Chromebattery.com Wow... a $40 motorcycle battery with free shipping.... well, got you a year and a half Britman. Sounds like my kind of shopping, glad you got the problem solved. Check yer math Pancho |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #24 on: August 22, 2016, 01:57:28 PM » |
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That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015. It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping. Bought from Chromebattery.com Wow... a $40 motorcycle battery with free shipping.... well, got you a year and a half Britman. Sounds like my kind of shopping, glad you got the problem solved. Check yer math Pancho For me batteries seem to be a crap shoot. Expensive ones can crap out soon and cheap ones can last for 8 years. |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #25 on: August 22, 2016, 01:57:37 PM » |
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Check alternator output too. That battery should have lasted longer but if its not being charged, well you know.....dead
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #26 on: August 22, 2016, 02:19:55 PM » |
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Britman, my suggestion is to find someone local to you who knows his way around motorcycle electrics and have him help you diagnose your problem. He doesn't have to know Valkyries in particular, as your problem is likely not Valkyrie specific. Show him the schematics on the Rattlebars web site (below), and he should find the source of your troubles without too much trouble. http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/ |
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pancho
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« Reply #27 on: August 22, 2016, 03:36:21 PM » |
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That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015. It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping. Bought from Chromebattery.com Wow... a $40 motorcycle battery with free shipping.... well, got you a year and a half Britman. Sounds like my kind of shopping, glad you got the problem solved. Check yer math Pancho Not sure where my head was at....... Like Chris said,,, make sure the alternator is working and keeping the battery charged up. |
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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« Reply #28 on: August 22, 2016, 06:25:58 PM » |
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Having been on the battery tender for a few hours there's not much life when turning on key and hitting the start button.
I'll remove the battery tomorrow and take it for a check up.
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« Reply #29 on: August 22, 2016, 06:27:19 PM » |
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The battery tender function lights show the battery is fully charged.
So if the battery is OK when tested tomorrow I'll strip the starter button and take a look inside.
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big poppa pump
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« Reply #30 on: August 22, 2016, 06:47:11 PM » |
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Just because the battery tender shows it's fully charged doesn't necessarily mean that the battery's good. I'm probably guessing that a couple of cells are out in the battery. A load test on the battery should reveal that.
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VRCC#35870 VRCCDS#0266 1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod  |
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #31 on: August 22, 2016, 08:34:24 PM » |
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At least with my Battery Tender Jr, if the battery is dead or unchargable, the tender quits trying to charge (red led) almost immediately, and the green led (showing fully charged) was on. This only happened once; I only had one dead battery since I started using them full time.
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #33 on: August 23, 2016, 07:05:18 AM » |
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Britman, get a new battery. Waste of money until you know the battery is the issue. |
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Paladin528
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« Reply #35 on: August 23, 2016, 07:45:34 AM » |
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Stop using water to clean your bike. REgular water is a conductor and can (and will) cause shorts as well as corrosion.
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Grumpy
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« Reply #36 on: August 23, 2016, 07:59:51 AM » |
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Check the ground connection to the motor, it is on the left side of the clutch cover behind the alternator. I had that one get loose on my Interstate and created about the same problem.
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 Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get. |
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« Reply #37 on: August 23, 2016, 08:13:09 AM » |
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Check the ground connection to the motor, it is on the left side of the clutch cover behind the alternator. I had that one get loose on my Interstate and created about the same problem.
I'll check that but pep Boys said it's dead. They gave me a computer readout. |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #38 on: August 23, 2016, 11:15:58 AM » |
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Check the ground connection to the motor, it is on the left side of the clutch cover behind the alternator. I had that one get loose on my Interstate and created about the same problem.
I'll check that but pep Boys said it's dead. They gave me a computer readout. Something to ponder...............Pep Boys says DEAD and it no workie, so its probably dead...........battery tender said "fully charged" So when ruling out the battery as the cause for no start, the reading on a battery tender is not enough to rule out a dead battery, That's the main reason its always good to use a known good battery to jump and see if it starts. |
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« Reply #39 on: August 23, 2016, 11:32:21 AM » |
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Check the ground connection to the motor, it is on the left side of the clutch cover behind the alternator. I had that one get loose on my Interstate and created about the same problem.
I'll check that but pep Boys said it's dead. They gave me a computer readout. Something to ponder...............Pep Boys says DEAD and it no workie, so its probably dead...........battery tender said "fully charged" So when ruling out the battery as the cause for no start, the reading on a battery tender is not enough to rule out a dead battery, That's the main reason its always good to use a known good battery to jump and see if it starts. To late already shipped back to seller. |
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