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Author Topic: starter relay  (Read 826 times)
mapman37
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Posts: 1


« on: August 23, 2016, 12:54:41 PM »

I had to replace the starter relay. I bought a $10 Chinese relay on Amazon. When I hit the starter button, the starter began to turn and wouldn't stop I turned off the key and kill switch and it kept going. Finally had to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. I bought another relay. At first I had a problem because the battery and starter terminals were reversed. I figured that out and the bike started beautifully. Took it for a ride and restarted it 6 times, everything good. Put the bike in the garage and just tried to start it one more time and the starter locked again. At first I thought maybe the two connectors on the relay were touching but that wasn't the case. I can't think of anything wrong but the relays. For the starter button to stick, the key switch would also have to stick at  the same time which is highly unlikely. Has anyone else had a problem with these cheap Chinese relays?
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cabincruiser
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Posts: 19

Upststate NY


« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2016, 01:53:50 PM »

I know the OEM parts are pricey, but I think they save headaches in the long run. I would test the starter button, relay, solenoid, and starter as described in the manual before throwing money at it. A cheap mutimeter works fine for resistance checking, and is really a must if your going to diag your own bike. These procedures are also described in this forum and you just need to use the search feature to find.  I see a slightly more expensive Japanese relay in your future.  cooldude
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1998 Tourer
2004 Road Star
1973 FLH
1971 TR6R
1973 CB750 chopper
gordonv
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Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2016, 05:00:11 PM »

You kind of lost me. You are saying that after changing the wire after the starter continued to run, and seemed to work fine, that the starter is running continuously?

Sounds more like your starter switch sticking. Nothing to do with your key, as that only turns on power. We are talking a Valkyrie here aren't we?

Since the relay is not an OEM, and you don't know what it is, I would think a nice volt meter and check out your leads. The service manual should show what each lead on the relay should be.

The GW replacement connector for the relay, has a different wire configuration. You move 1-2 leads, and now it matches the Valk relay. I'm thinking that your relay doesn't match the Valkyrie, and that it is being hot wired, which is causing your relay to stay active. Or, your relay is shot, and is sticking. Which is another reason to use OEM or used, instead of those cheap ones.

Some have used auto relays, wired in as a replacement.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

indybobm
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Posts: 1601

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2016, 06:33:54 PM »

Gordon, I think he is saying that when he hit the start button the relay energized and would not release. Like keeping a jumper on the big terminals on the relay.  Turning the key off would not stop it.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
desertrefugee
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Posts: 278


Chandler, AZ, USA


« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2016, 09:32:25 PM »

Those cheap ebay Chinese solenoids are absolute cr*p.   You have reinforced what I found out - just as you did.   I dang near burned up a starter using one of those.

I had thought "how bad could a Chinese solenoid be?"    Now I (we) know.   This topic has been discussed at length on other cycle boards I frequent.

Go OEM.  Something as critical as a DIRECT LINE FROM BATTERY TO STARTER demands it.
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'97 Bumble Bee,  '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750
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