Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 05, 2025, 01:10:31 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
VRCC Calendar Ad
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: 2000 IS won't crank. Battery or hydrolock?  (Read 1344 times)
BINOVC
Member
*****
Posts: 92

Southaven, MS


« on: August 24, 2016, 04:40:50 PM »

Haven't rode much due to rain plus I was out of town a couple weeks. Started it last week just to run the engine some, and it started and ran fine. The other day I went to ride it, everything seemed normal but it wouldn't turn over. Battery is probably a bit low, but now I'm afraid to hit the starter after charging because I don't know if it was really a low battery or  hydrolock. So do I just go ahead and pull out all the plugs (guess I first have to pull off the pods to get to the front plugs?) Just to be sure? Or just give it a quick push on the starter button and see what happens?
Logged
Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2016, 04:55:58 PM »

Take the spark plugs out and then push the starter. If it is locked the gas will shoot out of the spark plug holes without damaging anything. Likley a low battery but maybe your kickstand switch also.
Logged

gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2016, 05:43:32 PM »

Put the bike in gear and roll the bike and release the clutch. If it's locked, the engine will stop the bike (don't ride it rolling down a hill and do this).

Engine turns over, just use good battery and jump your bike.
Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

Ramie
Member
*****
Posts: 1318


2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2016, 08:20:01 AM »

I've noticed that unlike a number of other Honda motorcycles, if the kill switch is tripped on a Valk the starter does not turn over.
Logged

“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
indybobm
Member
*****
Posts: 1601

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2016, 09:00:10 AM »

When it did not turn over the other day, did it make any noise at all?
Logged

So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
Gryphon Rider
Member
*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2016, 09:00:55 AM »

If it is locked the gas will shoot out of the spark plug holes without damaging anything.
Other than covering everything nearby with a smelly, flammable liquid.
Logged
Gideon
Member
*****
Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2016, 01:39:58 PM »

Before you do anything, check your "Kill Switch".  Wink
Logged

But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
BINOVC
Member
*****
Posts: 92

Southaven, MS


« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2016, 01:54:49 PM »

The other day when I tried to start it it just acted like a low battery. It started to turn over but never made a full Revolution. It did not make any bad noise.
I'm going to have to wait for some help before I can give it the push test. I just don't really feel like pulling out all the spark plugs, but I will if the push test does not seem to work well.
I appreciate all the responses, but I have not had time to work on it as yet. I will let you all know.
Logged
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2016, 02:58:37 PM »

The other day when I tried to start it it just acted like a low battery. It started to turn over but never made a full Revolution. It did not make any bad noise.
I'm going to have to wait for some help before I can give it the push test. I just don't really feel like pulling out all the spark plugs, but I will if the push test does not seem to work well.
I appreciate all the responses, but I have not had time to work on it as yet. I will let you all know.
Sounds like a dead battery to me.
Logged
BINOVC
Member
*****
Posts: 92

Southaven, MS


« Reply #9 on: August 27, 2016, 04:02:23 PM »

It was hydrolocked. tickedoff
Apparently I dodged a bullet, thanks to this forum teaching me and warning me about the potential.
I decided to remove the plugs, after figuring out that removing the pods wasn't that hard.
Cranked it (outside) and gas went a-flyin'.  Re-installed the plugs and she started right up.
Since fuel flew out of multiple cylinders, I guess that means I have multiple bad float needles.
And also apparently I have a leaking fuel valve.
And probably gas in my crankcase now as well (I forgot to check the oil level).
So what's the easiest fix that doesn't require replacing the needles?
Re-kit the fuel valve?  Or install a non-vacuum fuel valve like pingel?
About 54K miles on the ticker.
Logged
Gryphon Rider
Member
*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2016, 08:12:16 AM »

Since fuel flew out of multiple cylinders, I guess that means I have multiple bad float needles.
And also apparently I have a leaking fuel valve.
And probably gas in my crankcase now as well (I forgot to check the oil level).
So what's the easiest fix that doesn't require replacing the needles?
Re-kit the fuel valve?  Or install a non-vacuum fuel valve like pingel?
The OEM valve rebuild kit (a.k.a. cover set kit) fixes the vacuum side. If the valve leaks while the engine is off but the valve is on, a kit will fix it. If it leaks while the valve is manually turned off, the whole valve needs replacing. If you know the float needles leak, replacing them is required. Say you get a new manual valve; have you ever forgotten to turn off your fuel valve? I'm in the habit of always turning it off, but sometimes (rarely) I find I've left it on.
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14774


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2016, 08:44:32 AM »

It was hydrolocked. tickedoff
Apparently I dodged a bullet, thanks to this forum teaching me and warning me about the potential.
I decided to remove the plugs, after figuring out that removing the pods wasn't that hard.
Cranked it (outside) and gas went a-flyin'.  Re-installed the plugs and she started right up.
Since fuel flew out of multiple cylinders, I guess that means I have multiple bad float needles.
And also apparently I have a leaking fuel valve.
And probably gas in my crankcase now as well (I forgot to check the oil level).
So what's the easiest fix that doesn't require replacing the needles?
Re-kit the fuel valve?  Or install a non-vacuum fuel valve like pingel?
About 54K miles on the ticker.

The problem can be bad float needles or bad float assembly itself.  The entire float piece is plastic and can get deformed.  I helped my friend fix his hydrolock.  He ordered all new floats and needles.  Turns out one float assembly (on the cylinder that locked) was deformed and failed to maintain pressure on the needle as the fuel level rose.  The needle could have been perfectly good and still let gas through because with fuel at the top the float let go of the needle.




Replace all the floats and needles, get the Pingel and it will be solved
« Last Edit: August 28, 2016, 02:36:43 PM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2016, 10:35:22 AM »

Not fixing both items means that you are still playing Russian Roulette with a loaded gun.

But knowing is over half the battle. I don't think I've heard of anyone damaging their bike if they stop pressing the start button when the engine stops turning. Only when they wonder what happened, and press it again.

So what would I do? Partial to the OEM petcock, so fix that, and ride the bike till it's time to store. Then fix the floats during the down time. Read up on the floats if you haven't yet. It is believed that the float springs get weak, and their replacement with new ones solves that weak link (for another 10-20 years).
Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

hukmut
Member
*****
Posts: 295


Stone County, Mississippi


« Reply #13 on: August 29, 2016, 07:26:23 AM »

AND they are a lot cheaper to replace than the hydrolock repair parts!!!! cooldude
Logged
BINOVC
Member
*****
Posts: 92

Southaven, MS


« Reply #14 on: August 29, 2016, 07:42:47 AM »

Well you can be sure I wont be trying to start it without first clearing the cylinders.
I'll be ordering a cover set for now, and planning the carb work for later.  Right now I don't have the time or even a garage.
Sorry to have posted the question about what to do - I know this topic is a little like "which oil" or "which tires".  But hey it's good to get updates from time to time right?
By the way (and I'm guessing this has been asked before as well) can the danmark be used with the OEM petcock?
Logged
Roidfingers
Member
*****
Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #15 on: August 29, 2016, 07:48:21 AM »

Yes that's what I do. I rebuilt my oem petcock just to know its new. Then I installed the dan marc. And now never have to worry about it again. Easy to do
Logged
Fazer
Member
*****
Posts: 947


West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« Reply #16 on: August 29, 2016, 09:43:48 AM »



I did the same thing --rebuilt petcock and added Dan Mark.  You will want to desmog before installing the Dan Mark--otherwise wont have the room.  Not really any option to relocate the shut off valve, as the fuel line length is critical.  If there is enough room, I'm sure others will weigh in.
Logged

Nothing in moderation...
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: