Ignition - Key switch

[Brian]

Hello everyone,
Information and a question.

The other day I go to start the valk, turn the key switch - lights dim and no cranking not even the starter relay pulling in. The volt meter said 12.4 was available at the battery. After a few quick on and off actions the lights brightened with the help of some CRC shot into the key opening. I let it sit overnight and then tore into the key switch. These are serviceable with the help of a security bit set. You need the torx bit that accepts the center pin. I did find a few contacts that were discolored. This 97 switch has never failed me till now. Contact cleaner and some real fine steel wool made all the contacts look brand new even the floating contacts on the base that turns with the key. I reassembled using a small amount of light bulb socket grease on all the contacts and in the floating contact guide openings.

The question I have- I cannot find this switch on the HDL parts listings. No doubt it's me, but has anyone had to replace this switch and what is the part number or what heading is it listed under. I am thinking about buying a new one and keep this original one as a spare.

Thank you in advance.

[bikerboy1951]

In the parts breakdown it is under the listing for the side cover. Don't know why it is there, but it is.

Brad

[jim@98valkyrie.com]

Part # 35100-MZ0-007

[John Schmidt]

Do you have a lot of stuff on that key ring? If so, get rid of all of it but the key itself, the extra sideways weight and vibration causes excess wear on the tumblers and everything else in the switch. Had that demonstrated to me in one of my first flying lessons when the CFI  pointed to the load of keys I had hanging from the switch. Also, if you have excess aftermarket stuff wired in but not isolated you cause excess load on the start circuit. When you get the new switch, take the old and new to a locksmith and he can set the tumblers so you can use the original key if needed to open saddlebags and/or trunk.

[Brian]

Do you have a lot of stuff on that key ring? If so, get rid of all of it but the key itself, the extra sideways weight and vibration causes excess wear on the tumblers and everything else in the switch. Had that demonstrated to me in one of my first flying lessons when the CFI  pointed to the load of keys I had hanging from the switch. Also, if you have excess aftermarket stuff wired in but not isolated you cause excess load on the start circuit. When you get the new switch, take the old and new to a locksmith and he can set the tumblers so you can use the original key if needed to open saddlebags and/or trunk.

Hello John,
Thanks for this suggestion. I only have the ignition key, plastic fob from the bike shop and the saddle bag key on the ring. I have all the aftermarket stuff isolated, soon to isolate the headlight to take that load off the start switch/button. I too learnt this lesson years ago having a bunch of extra keys hanging off the ignition switch in the car. I appreciate that locksmith suggestion, this way I will not have carry the original key for the gas cap.
Thanks,

[Brian]

In the parts breakdown it is under the listing for the side cover. Don't know why it is there, but it is.

Brad

Brad,

I found this out later today when I had more time to search on another parts supplier sites that is actually $4 cheaper than HDL. I believe it was Honda Parts House.

thanks,

[Brian]

Part # 35100-MZ0-007

Thanks Jim for the part number. I am originally from Pittsburgh, PA. Nice to see other Pennsylvanians on this site.

[Gideon]

The ignition controls three different circuits: IG1, IG2,and FAN. The trouble was with IG2 circuit. The IG2 controls the tachometer, tail lights and head light. Rather than wait for a new ignition switch, My problem was the IG2.
I ran a separate wire with a relay and a 30 amp fuse for the IG2. The local Honda dealer stated that a new switch could not be keyed for the gas tank or seat removal. He also stated they were able to do it when the bike was still in production, but not now. I didn’t want two keys.
If I have an other problem with it I will do what John suggested.

[John Schmidt]

In the parts breakdown it is under the listing for the side cover. Don't know why it is there, but it is.

Brad

Brad,

I found this out later today when I had more time to search on another parts supplier sites that is actually $4 cheaper than HDL. I believe it was Honda Parts House.

thanks,

It's $42.09 from ProCaliber

[Brian]

In the parts breakdown it is under the listing for the side cover. Don't know why it is there, but it is.

Brad

Brad,

I found this out later today when I had more time to search on another parts supplier sites that is actually $4 cheaper than HDL. I believe it was Honda Parts House.

thanks,

It's $42.09 from ProCaliber

Never went to that site John. Thanks. I did state the wrong price before .......it is $42.85 !

[Memor86]

12.4 at the battery means a low battery, most likely wont even turn the starter.

a good charged battery should read 12.80 Volts.