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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Pulling Fuel Filter - Need advice.  (Read 1019 times)
Kindred Spirit
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Posts: 78

Swainsboro, GA


« on: September 06, 2016, 08:35:18 AM »

The previous owner installed a fuel filter on my Interstate and it has never been changed in the 10 years that I've had it.  Recently it seems that the bike is being starved for fuel when put under load or heavy acceleration so I'm going to pull the fuel filter and run a straight fuel line per BigBF.  The problem is that the fuel filter is tucked in between the carbs and impossible (as far as I can tell) to get to.  By the way, this is with the tank off.  The only option I can see is to remove the air box.   

Can anyone give me some instructions or advice on removing the air box.  Or if you have a PDF or something with instructions that would be awesome too.  Thanks in advance.

Kendall
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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2016, 09:59:00 AM »

Air box CAN be a bitch. Look on the top of the carbs. Those clamps are what holds he air box to the carbs. It's actually pretty straight forward removal. The install is where the fun STARTS. Our tech pages have a lot of suggestions and pictures on the install. When you are in there might give consideration to a desmog. Key word here is patience-lots of PATIENCE. I lucked out on my reinstall of the air box-went in perfect-the third try. Oh and B T W-no/none/zero/nada mods to air box. Trust me on this.  RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
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Kindred Spirit
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Posts: 78

Swainsboro, GA


« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2016, 10:17:16 AM »

Air box CAN be a bitch. Look on the top of the carbs. Those clamps are what holds he air box to the carbs. It's actually pretty straight forward removal. The install is where the fun STARTS. Our tech pages have a lot of suggestions and pictures on the install. When you are in there might give consideration to a desmog. Key word here is patience-lots of PATIENCE. I lucked out on my reinstall of the air box-went in perfect-the third try. Oh and B T W-no/none/zero/nada mods to air box. Trust me on this.  RIDE SAFE.

Thanks for the reply.  She's already desmogged.  I looked at the tech page and have some ideas. 
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Daniel Meyer
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Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


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« Reply #3 on: September 06, 2016, 11:13:00 AM »

Also check the petcock function while you're in there. They are often the cause of fuel starvation (bad diaphragm/vacuum leakdown).
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
Kindred Spirit
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Posts: 78

Swainsboro, GA


« Reply #4 on: September 06, 2016, 12:20:27 PM »

Also check the petcock function while you're in there. They are often the cause of fuel starvation (bad diaphragm/vacuum leakdown).
I rebuilt the petcock last week.  Thanks!
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14774


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2016, 05:39:36 AM »

Also check the petcock function while you're in there. They are often the cause of fuel starvation (bad diaphragm/vacuum leakdown).
I rebuilt the petcock last week.  Thanks!

I agree with you, remove that extra filter, make sure the fuel line is as stock.  Straight with no extra length.

The air box is only hard to replace because so many say it's hard and then you expect it to be hard.  Watch DAG's video, makes it easy

Lastly, just because you rebuilt the fuel valve doesn't mean it's working properly.  I went through that, very frustrating until I just got rid of it for a Pingel.
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Kunkies
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Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2016, 12:00:07 PM »

Chris:  which Pingel, did you get straight through or the more expensive one with the vacuum connector on it?  I have one, yet I'm wondering if I should exchange with the two connector type to avoid hydro-lock.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2016, 12:13:14 PM »

Chris:  which Pingel, did you get straight through or the more expensive one with the vacuum connector on it?  I have one, yet I'm wondering if I should exchange with the two connector type to avoid hydro-lock.

I put on the non vac just so I would have one less vacuum line and one less vacuum leak to worry about.  Not really concerned as much about hydrolock when I did it, just was tired of being on the side of the road because fuel wouldn't flow!
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Kunkies
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Charlotte, NC


« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2016, 04:56:21 AM »

Ditto, thanks Chris.  My thoughts exactly . . .
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MarkT
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« Reply #9 on: September 09, 2016, 08:10:10 AM »

Putting the air box back on, it helps to add some leverage pushing down especially on the front while tightening the air tube clamps.  I found these pry bars from HF useful for that (and useful many other times too). spread the force out with a piece of 1/2" plywood, when pushing down on the front of the airbox. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-heavy-duty-pry-bar-set-69281.html



I found with the Pingel, utility much improved if you add an extender to the lever to make it easier to find.  I have yet to try to find it with gloves on.  I just made a paddle of aluminum, twisted 90° with a hole in it, alumi-welded it to add strength (cracked when I twisted it) drilled and JB welded it on.  Did a much prettier job for the extension on George's petcock. (it has to pass inspection when entered in bike shows)



« Last Edit: September 09, 2016, 08:13:01 AM by MarkT » Logged


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