Lack of maintenance has caugh up with me....

[joker]

My 99 interstate is 17 years old and besides oil changes every year and coolant once I've never done anything maintenance wise to it. I went for a ride the other day and all the sudden it started to ride real rough as if it was riding on just some of the cylinders. So now I guess I will do everything that should have been done long ago. Spark plugs check timing check the valves synchronize the carburetors if needed. I guess I won't be riding again until spring.  See boys and girls, everything has a price.
And by the way, what's up with the price of spark plug wires? They used to be like around $10 for 8 of them.

[John Schmidt]

Have you ever serviced the driveline? If you say it was done every time a tire was changed at the dealer, I remind you of the menu at a local Vietnam restaurant. It had a couple dishes advertised as being made with chicken, at least that's what they led you to think. Preparing it didn't involve plucking feathers!!

I.E., you didn't get what you thought you were getting. Same goes for most dealers re. service on Valkyries.

[zzed28]

Time has gotten behind you , the last time I bought a set of  plug wires for ten bux, was about 1971.

  Did the heavy miss, come on suddenly?  If so, I would be checking out fuel first, try opening the gas cap, see if you hear a big sucking sound, if so your vent could be plugged, check your filter on your petcock , maybe its being blocked by what ever gunk may have been in your last fuel  fillup.

 Check to be sure your plug wires are seated on the plugs,  hopefully some goof hasnt loosened them up on you.  Also check the tips of the plug wires to be sure they are seated in the plug caps.  By all means change the plugs, if bought right, thats  only about fifteen bux for copper ngk s. Some say autolites are better plugs, they re cheap in copper too.  The way you dont like to work on the bike though, it may be better to get platinum plugs.

Do just one thing at a time, and check to see if the bike runs better with that fix, if you do more than one thing at a time, it makes it confusing to know what fixed it in the end.  Start with the easy things first, and go from there although, everything I have mentioned is fairly easy.

 I use a special tool, that checks spark, its placed between the plug wire end and g then ground the tool on the engine, set the gap on the tool, at about a half inch,, if the spark makes that gap, you have decent spark at the plug. If it doesnt jump the gap, on my yammie, I pull the wire out of the plug cap, and make sure the last quarter inch of the wire is intact, its best to just trim it back a quarter inch to be sure you have a good connection between the plug wire and the cap, recheck with the tool after youve trimmed it, it will have spark, if the wire end was the problem.   I bought the tool on ebay for about fifteen bux, it has been invaluable and its saved me some grief so far with my yammie.  Also , a harbor freight infrared thermomometer, is only about thirty bux, buy spare batts for it, and dont expect the batts to last very long.  Use it to see what cyls stay cold on the pipes, that will help point you in the right direction, or , you can use a wet fingertip , or a wet screwdriver,  and see if there is a sizzle when it touches a headpipe, to effect a similar thing. A sizzling headpipe, is one that is running.

I am sure there is something that Ive forgotten, hopefully someone else, will chime in.

[Ricky-D]

I wouldn't do anything more but run a can of Berrymans thru it first. You may be jumping the gun by doing anything more. as far as maintenance on the drive, that would depend upon the miles that are on the bike. That, and the battery may need replacing!

***

[zzed28]

To check the battery, use a voltmeter across the terminals, if its not at least 12.6, you need to slow charge the battery, then recheck. Its best to take the batt in after charging to have the amps checked, it should read better than 200 ,if I remember correctly, check this out by the book.   Most auto parts stores have a checker.  Most mc batts I have checked that are useable, read better than 250 amps minimum.  A new batt, often will run up to 300 amps after being slow charged.  A new batt should also have very close to 13.2 volts if brand new and fully charged.

[postoak]

Okay, I don't own a 1500, but don't they need timing belt changes from time to time?  Aren't these interference engines? 

[Pete]

Okay, I don't own a 1500, but don't they need timing belt changes from time to time?  Aren't these interference engines? 

Yes and Yes. Although a timing belt break usually stops the engine abruptly rather than a miss.

[postoak]

I know, I'm just saying if he is going to do maintenance and has many miles on his bike that new timing belts would be a good idea.

[gordonv]

Joker, 1st and most important question, how many miles are we talking on your bike?

How often are you riding it, 1 trip a year, or once a week all year long?

[Bighead]

I know, I'm just saying if he is going to do maintenance and has many miles on his bike that new timing belts would be a good idea.

d
Honda recommends checking them at 100k . You will get all kinds of opinions on this just as with what oil to use. But hey only state to check them not replace them at 100k. I replaced mine at about 75k just because of age but they looked as good as the new ones I put on, in fact you could have put them all in a pile and not been able to tell which had the miles and which were new.

[vanagon40]

My 99 interstate is 17 years old and besides oil changes every year and coolant once I've never done anything maintenance wise to it. I went for a ride the other day and all the sudden it started to ride real rough as if it was riding on just some of the cylinders. So now I guess I will do everything that should have been done long ago. Spark plugs check timing check the valves synchronize the carburetors if needed. I guess I won't be riding again until spring.  See boys and girls, everything has a price.
And by the way, what's up with the price of spark plug wires? They used to be like around $10 for 8 of them.

The same with my 2001. I have never changed the plugs, wires, checked the valves or carbs, or done much other than change the fluids. I would not give up the riding season to complete all of the above. In my experience, a sudden and extreme decrease in in performance is usually due to some sort of problem, not general maintenance. I would try to find the problem rather than simply replacing parts. My humble opinion.

[joker]

Okay, so my bike has 79000 miles on it. The last two years I probably have not put more than 500 miles on it each year. Previous to that I rode  it from last frost to first Frost.
I live in NY, so short riding season compared to southern and western states. Thanks for all the other suggestions such as checking gas tank and petcock filter which I never even knew there was one shame on me

[joker]

So I had a little time at work so I went through the valkyrie manual and I cannot find anything on fuel filter, petcock, screen. What am I missing?

[gordonv]

The petcock screen is in the tank, over the petcock fuel tube.

The OEM bike has no other fuel filter.

Based upon how little you have been riding it the last couple of years, I would start with 1/2 a can of Berryman B-12 in 1/2 a tank of new fuel from a good source (name brand dealer [Chevron] in a high volume location).

Ride it. In the RPM range that is giving you the trouble. This is usually in a low RPM range, slow speed with high gear (on the flat is nice). 1/2 hr should do. Let it sit over night, and repeat a few times.

If it works, but not 100%, then try a different cleaner, like Techron. Seafoam, in most peoples opinions, isn't strong enough for cleaning, but is fine as a stabilizer, not when you have a problem.

Try the above first, easy, inexpensive, just go out ridding. Before trying anything else major.

[joker]

Okay then...I'll try the different cleaners and see what shakes.
Thanks.

[Six-Cylinder Hooligan]

Berryman's B-12 is good stuff. I usually use an entire can in a full tank of fuel after every oil change. Like other's have said, try the easy stuff first... B-12 thru the fuel system, new spark plugs & maybe check your air-filter. Can't imagine parking the bike this early. There's still couple months of good riding here in Central Ohio!

Cheers!
-Art

[joker]

So I'm guessing that the screen can be accessed by removing the tank ??

[Ricky-D]

I wouldn't worry about the screen, especially if you can see no rust in the tank looking thru the fuel fill.  Berryman's B-12 will clean out the tank and screen efficiently.

***

[joker]

Ok....is this a dream or what????
I put the Berryman on and in 5 minutes she started running smooth again?!

[John Schmidt]

It doesn't take much for these otherwise smooth running motors to start sounding and feeling anemic. If you had just one or two carbs with a small amount of buildup from this liquored up gas, it will make all the difference in how the bike drives. Keep in mind how small the passages are inside the carbs then compare it to a 5/8" garden hose. With a garden hose, if you restrict 25% of the flow you still get a bucket load of water through. But when you restrict a carb passage by 25% that is so miniscule in diameter, and that passage is tuned to service a particular function at a particular flow rate....now you have a problem. Hope the B-12 cures the problem entirely at least until winter, then a rebuild might be in order along with a few other things. 

[Bagger John - #3785]

When has the air filter last been changed?

[gordonv]

It might have just been gummed up instead of plugged, so it dissolved quickly. Now take it out and enjoy. Run the engine at different RPMs so the cleaner can go through the different ports.

If after this one treatment and it's still not 100%, and you run out of the cleaner you used, try a different one, like Techron. Do the same with that, give it a chance to work.

Just remember to use your additive when it's time to put it away to sleep. I use Seafoam, but Stabile is another (some recommend the marine version).

[joker]

I'm guessing it's been 10 years since I even thought about the air filter. I did mention that I suck at maintenance, didn't i?
So different rpms cause gas to go thru different parts of the carbs? 

[Bighead]

Yes your low speed jets deliver fuel at low rpm and the high speed at higher rpm. Check manual for specifics

[Bronxboy]

We may have to revoke your membership for cruelty charges 

[Bighead]

Good to see a Florida Flatlander on the Dragon

[joker]

Well I'm trying now to revive her. I have a full tank so I'll have to run it out to make the tank lighter and easier to remove and get to the air filter. Bought plugs, so might as well change them. It'll be interesting to see the condition after almost 80000 miles. Lol.
A L S O ......I have some cracked and disconnected vacuum hoses. Gonna replace them too.

[Bagger John - #3785]

It's time for a carb sync and valve adjustment too. Do the carbs after you've changed the vacuum lines.

I don't even want to think about what the final drive might look like... 

[longrider]

Joker

Your statement that you have vacuum hoses cracked will be the main issue with the engine stumbling and poor idle and low rpm performance.  Changing those out as well as air filter and plugs and you will solve your problem.  A carb sync should be done as well

[joker]

Will no doubt I have my work cut out for me. since it's running a little bit better now I think I'll just run it the rest of the fall and then work on it over the winter. I mean the vacuum lines I will repair right away

[franco6]

Vacuum hoses or you re out of gas.

[joker]

What do you mean Franko6?

[franco6]

the fuel valve malfunction comes to mind as when you re running on empty and feels like all s.. broke loose! lol

[F-six]

Well, if you make it a winter project, you might get all the way. At almost 80.000 miles you are facing some serious maintenance. As said before, the driveline probably need replacing. Same goes for the timing belt and tensioners. You also might want to check the disk brakes, are they still thick enough? Minimum of 4 mm is required.

I have two Valks, one is a 1999 Interstate with 60.000 miles on it, one is a Standard with 75.000 miles on it. Both needed a lot of maintenance last year, driveline, timing belts and tensioners, tyres, disk brakes, air filter, valve adjustments and carbs. It cost me a lot of money, but they both run like new again! Good for another ten years.

Oh, and don't forget to replace the alternator brushes! Got me stranded one day and cost me another alternator. I believe Honda says to replace them at 50.000 miles.

[joker]

Well I'm going to take each part of the bike piece by piece or section-by-section and redo it. Brake pads are good I replace those a couple of times front and rear the disks I'll have to measure and see.

Well, if you make it a winter project, you might get all the way. At almost 80.000 miles you are facing some serious maintenance. As said before, the driveline probably need replacing. Same goes for the timing belt and tensioners. You also might want to check the disk brakes, are they still thick enough? Minimum of 4 mm is required.

I have two Valks, one is a 1999 Interstate with 60.000 miles on it, one is a Standard with 75.000 miles on it. Both needed a lot of maintenance last year, driveline, timing belts and tensioners, tyres, disk brakes, air filter, valve adjustments and carbs. It cost me a lot of money, but they both run like new again! Good for another ten years.

Oh, and don't forget to replace the alternator brushes! Got me stranded one day and cost me another alternator. I believe Honda says to replace them at 50.000 miles.