Should I fix my forks from leaking or send to the dealer?

[sonofscrooge]

Would like a bit of advice.

I have changed the timing belts, valve stem seals, shifter seal, etc. without any trouble. Would  the forks be a much bigger job than these?

The instructions in the repair manual look a bit daunting. Thoughts?

[Bronson]

I recently had a leaky right fork. Tried a "Seal Mate" and it worked for me, the fork now stays clean and dry. I bought one at a local bike shop and also bought one online on Ebay.  You just pry the dust seal loose, slide it down and remove the retainer spring at the seal. Then insert the sealmate, a piece of old film negative would work too; and slide it around between the fork tube and seal. It cleans out the crud that builds up and makes the seal leak.

You also have to remove the chrome fork cover to do it. I figured it was worth a try as opposed to replacing the seals and it worked for me.

I live in Belvidere so, if you decide to replace the seals and need extra hands, I'd be willing.

Bronson

[Grandpot]

If the Sealmate trick does not work, changing the seals is not a hard job.  If you can do the timing belts, you certainly can do this.  Here is a link to Dag's site. http://www.valkyrienorway.com/forksprings.html   , it is very thorough.

You will need a special wrench for the left fork.  Here is a link on how to build it and some other tools:
http://www.rattlebars.com/vtx/forktools.html

[Jess from VA]

The Seal Doctor is better than the Seal Mate.  (It gets hard pushing a paper thin piece of plastic around the fork with fork oil all over it, cause it leaks when cleaning.  An ounce or two of fork oil loss is no big deal to handling.  

http://www.riskracing.com/pages/Seal_Doctor_Page.html

http://sealmate.net/

Most forks leaks can be stopped with this stuff, if you do it right.  Watch videos for each.  Cleaning then bouncing the forks, then do it again.  

If you have an actual chunk of seal missing, it won't work.

[Kep]

Used Seal Doctor on my leaking  fork seal a week before Inzane in June...hasn't leaked a drop since...Tried Seal-mate first , very difficult to handle when it gets oil on it . Seal Doctor , very easy to use !!

[Rio Wil]

I did my right seal about a hundred years ago, but I don't remember any special tools needed for it. I did the left seal a week ago and if you are not removing the spring, you don't need any special tools,  lets see if I can remember the process::::

Raise the bike on a mc jack
remove the front wheel
remove left brake caliper
remove wind deflector from fender (8mm nuts)
loosen the top tree pinch hex bolt
note the height of the cap above the surface of the tree
loosen the top cap.....don't remove
remove two bolts holding the lower strut to fender
loosen the two lower tree pinch hex head bolts
slide the fork tube down and out of the tree---with the cap on
keep the tube in an upright position....has oil in it...duh

clasp the lower fork between your feet and unscrew the top cap HOLD THE TOP TUBE SO IT WONT SLIDE DOWN AND SPILL OIL
STILL HOLDING THE TOP TUBE UP, TILT AND DUMP THE OIL
let oil drain...just for kicks capture the oil and weigh  it on the wife's kitchen scales (zero the scales with the container first)
lay the tube down and loosen the nut under the cap, note how many threads are exposed under the nuts position (mine was about 1 1/2 threads
remove the top cap
pry the dust seal out with a small screwdriver ..don't scratch the fork surface
remove the oil seal retainer spring with a small screwdriver
lay the tube on a table and use the upper tube as a slide hammer to remove the seal
my seal was the original and been installed for some 15 years
with the lower fork tube to the left, slide the upper fork tube to the right very hard
4-5 aggressive sharp pulls were needed to dislodge the seal
a little more oil will be dripping around, have a rag available
now the top fork tube will come off the bottom tube
the spring remains undisturbed in the lower fork tube
carefully remove the split bushing...expand with a screwdriver enough to slide off the lower tube
remove the slider bushing
remove the heavy steel ring
remove the old seal
remove the old dust seal

dry the area around where the split bushing was
slide your finger from the left to the right in the area where the split bushing was
you will feel two sharp edges, run a single layer of electrical tape around the tube to cover each sharp edge
slide the new dust seal on the lower tube, pay attention to the direction
slide the OLD OIL SEAL on (BETWEEN the new dust seal and new oil seal
slide the NEW oil seal on (pay attention to the direction)
remove the two pieces of tape
slide the thick steel ring on
slide the slide bushing on
slide the split bushing on, expanding it carefully as needed

slide the upper tube onto the lower tube
now is the time to drive in the new seal
turn the tube upside down and support the end of upper tube on a piece of 2x4, the will be a threaded rod (where the cap screws on)  sticking out of the tube and will go along side the 2x4 and not contact the floor
slide the old seal down against the new seal and use a 1/4 in diameter brass drift (or your choice of implements) and hammer to begin seating the new seal
confirm the new seal is seated far enough to install the retaining spring clip in its slot
the old seal will enter into the end of the tube but will not get caught so much you can't pry it out with a small screwdriver
once the spring clip is installed, take a heavy pair of dikes and cut the old seal off, take little bites and twist repeatedly til it cuts through and just twist it off, use care to not ding the fork sliding surface
lay the fork tubes on a table and screw the cap back onto the rod (down to the lock nut)
tighten the lock nut with the previous number of threads exposed below the nut
turn the tube right side up and pour 24-25 ounces (in my case)of your choice of fork oil into the top of the fork tube....be patient, pour small quantities at a time, gently work the upper tube up and down a little until all the oil is installed
screw the cap into the fork tube hand tight
insert the fork tube into the tree and bring the cap to the level previously noted
tighten the 2 lower pinch hex bolts
tighten the  cap
tighten the upper pinch bolt
bolt the lower fork to the fender
reinstall the wind deflector
reinstall the front wheel, caliper, etc
when positioning the axle within the left fork, note on the axle there is a tiny groove cut into the axle on the large diameter and about .050 from where it steps down to the diameter that goes through the bearings, slide the axle through the left fork until this tiny groove is just visible on the inside of the left fork, then tighten left axle pinch screws.....this will perfectly position the left brake rotor in the left brake caliper
follow the recommended procedure for reinstalling the front wheel

It might be interesting for others to review this process, add, rearrange and see if it is worth storing in the tech section.

The above can be done in 2-8 hours, depending on beer breaks, cleaning up messes and running errands for the little lady.....





  


 

[Jess from VA]

Thanks for reminding me why I didn't (try to) do it myself, and hired Big Bill (BF) instead.  

Given my modest skills, I had long ago decided I was good enough to pull/put the forks, but not to rebuild them.  I had a tech lined up (before Bill) who would do them for a C-note if I brought them to him (and all the parts), which was many hundreds less than what a dealer will charge if you just drop the bike off.

I'm talking a total rebuild of all wear parts, not just seals.

[Rio Wil]

If you are not replacing the springs, I think the only wear parts that need replacing are the split bushing and the slider bushing......both easily done in this process....

[baldo]

I did my right seal about a hundred years ago, but I don't remember any special tools needed for it. I did the left seal a week ago and if you are not removing the spring, you don't need any special tools,  lets see if I can remember the process::::

Raise the bike on a mc jack
remove the front wheel
remove left brake caliper
remove wind deflector from fender (8mm nuts)
loosen the top tree pinch hex bolt
note the height of the cap above the surface of the tree
loosen the top cap.....don't remove
remove two bolts holding the lower strut to fender
loosen the two lower tree pinch hex head bolts
slide the fork tube down and out of the tree---with the cap on
keep the tube in an upright position....has oil in it...duh

clasp the lower fork between your feet and unscrew the top cap HOLD THE TOP TUBE SO IT WONT SLIDE DOWN AND SPILL OIL
STILL HOLDING THE TOP TUBE UP, TILT AND DUMP THE OIL
let oil drain...just for kicks capture the oil and weigh  it on the wife's kitchen scales (zero the scales with the container first)
lay the tube down and loosen the nut under the cap, note how many threads are exposed under the nuts position (mine was about 1 1/2 threads
remove the top cap
pry the dust seal out with a small screwdriver ..don't scratch the fork surface
remove the oil seal retainer spring with a small screwdriver
lay the tube on a table and use the upper tube as a slide hammer to remove the seal
my seal was the original and been installed for some 15 years
with the lower fork tube to the left, slide the upper fork tube to the right very hard
4-5 aggressive sharp pulls were needed to dislodge the seal
a little more oil will be dripping around, have a rag available
now the top fork tube will come off the bottom tube
the spring remains undisturbed in the lower fork tube
carefully remove the split bushing...expand with a screwdriver enough to slide off the lower tube
remove the slider bushing
remove the heavy steel ring
remove the old seal
remove the old dust seal

dry the area around where the split bushing was
slide your finger from the left to the right in the area where the split bushing was
you will feel two sharp edges, run a single layer of electrical tape around the tube to cover each sharp edge
slide the new dust seal on the lower tube, pay attention to the direction
slide the OLD OIL SEAL on (BETWEEN the new dust seal and new oil seal
slide the NEW oil seal on (pay attention to the direction)
remove the two pieces of tape
slide the thick steel ring on
slide the slide bushing on
slide the split bushing on, expanding it carefully as needed

slide the upper tube onto the lower tube
now is the time to drive in the new seal
turn the tube upside down and support the end of upper tube on a piece of 2x4, the will be a threaded rod (where the cap screws on)  sticking out of the tube and will go along side the 2x4 and not contact the floor
slide the old seal down against the new seal and use a 1/4 in diameter brass drift (or your choice of implements) and hammer to begin seating the new seal
confirm the new seal is seated far enough to install the retaining spring clip in its slot
the old seal will enter into the end of the tube but will not get caught so much you can't pry it out with a small screwdriver
once the spring clip is installed, take a heavy pair of dikes and cut the old seal off, take little bites and twist repeatedly til it cuts through and just twist it off, use care to not ding the fork sliding surface
lay the fork tubes on a table and screw the cap back onto the rod (down to the lock nut)
tighten the lock nut with the previous number of threads exposed below the nut
turn the tube right side up and pour 24-25 ounces (in my case)of your choice of fork oil into the top of the fork tube....be patient, pour small quantities at a time, gently work the upper tube up and down a little until all the oil is installed
screw the cap into the fork tube hand tight
insert the fork tube into the tree and bring the cap to the level previously noted
tighten the 2 lower pinch hex bolts
tighten the  cap
tighten the upper pinch bolt
bolt the lower fork to the fender
reinstall the wind deflector
reinstall the front wheel, caliper, etc
when positioning the axle within the left fork, note on the axle there is a tiny groove cut into the axle on the large diameter and about .050 from where it steps down to the diameter that goes through the bearings, slide the axle through the left fork until this tiny groove is just visible on the inside of the left fork, then tighten left axle pinch screws.....this will perfectly position the left brake rotor in the left brake caliper
follow the recommended procedure for reinstalling the front wheel

It might be interesting for others to review this process, add, rearrange and see if it is worth storing in the tech section.




The above can be done in 2-8 hours, depending on beer breaks, cleaning up messes and running errands for the little lady.....





  


 

Are you talking about how long to fix the forks, or how long it took to type those instructions? 

With my luck I'd have it all typed out and I'd hit that 'mystery key' that erases everything!

Thanks for the how-to. 

[tx blue]

I have had many different bike's through the yrs and have also been on many different forum's, but I must say the guys like Rio Wil are what make this site so great. Well there all like him LOL
Phil

[Colin]

There are a set of videos on YouTube on how to do the forks on a VTX which uses the same type of forks as our Valks. You need to watch all the videos and then decide whether the job is something you are happy doing. I would have thought with what you have already done you should be OK.

First video at https://youtu.be/TXZPzQqfAXc

[sonofscrooge]

Thanks for all of the input! A lot to think about.

Probably start with the easy solutions first and see how it goes.

[Grandpot]

Rio Wil is correct, you do not need the special tool for the left fork unless you are changing the spring.  I got a little carried away with my explanation.  The last time I did the job, I did replace the springs.

[Rio Wil]

Ahhhh Rats, I forgot to say it was not my idea to use the old oil seal to drive in the new one.....I found it in perusing several write ups and thought it sounded good so I used that technique and it worked great......so THANKS to who ever I plagiarized that idea from.....

[F6Dave]

Here's a post I kept from the old VRCC board.  If you only need to change the seal and/or bushings, don't waste money on the special tool and don't waste time by following the needlessly complicated procedure in the manual.  Here's how to do it leaving the fork on the bike and without special tools: