Clutch issue

[pitbull]

I'm wondering if I should replace my clutch as it does concern me a little.

It operates fine but if I pull away hard I get a weird noise coming from down below. It sort of sounds like a big rigs brakes coming to a stop.

I've also noticed that sometimes I only have to literally rest my fingers on the clutch lever and the clutch will slip.
This normally happens when the engine is hot, but not all the time.

A couple of years ago I was in stop/start traffic going up a hill towing my trailer, on my way on a roadtrip. By the time I was near the top the clutch was bad.
If I pulled the lever right the way in, the clutch would rattle like a load of bolts in a washing machine. Pull it halfway in and it would operate normally.
Once I got moving all was fine and the 3000 mile trip was no problem.

I put this issue down to old fluid and the bike/fluid getting hot, on my return I put new fluid in.

The gear change is a bit clunky and the transmission snatches quite a bit, but I think this is an issue with the cush drive in the back wheel, which I'll be replacing during the winter.

The bike will be torn down during the winter with a lot of parts being replaced, I want to get everything right for next year.

I'll be having some powder coating done as well. Just to make her pretty.

[Hook#3287]

Sounds like you may have more than one issue.

The bushing in the clutch handle could need replacing.

The slave could be clogged with whatever.

The damper plate could be going.

If in your situation, I'd do a complete clutch inspection, starting with the handle and ending with the basket.

The good news is the clutch friction plates in these bikes are like Superman with the damper plate being the Kryptonite.  You probably don't need new fiction plates, but might need a damper plate.

[indybobm]

On June 12, 2014, ‘wisconsinvalk’ described a problem that he was having with his clutch. When he pulled the clutch lever all of the way to the handle, he would hear a ‘grinding’ noise. The link for his post is below followed by excerps from the post. Seems like a number of people have described this problem with their bikes. Not saying that this is the cause for everyone but something to consider.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,68819.0.html

wisconsinvalk
Clutch Noise 1997 Valk
« on: June 12, 2014, 06:21:22 AM »
have a 1997 Valk with clutch noise when you pull clutch handle in, grinding and growling sound goes away when you drop in gear or release clutch handle. Changed entire clutch Basket with lifter and bearing. Noise still persist sounds bad like gear clash or something grinding can feel pulses in clutch handle when pulling it in. help!!

wisconsinvalk
Re: Clutch Noise 1997 Valk
« Reply #9 on: June 15, 2014, 07:18:01 AM »
 I found the problem, input shaft end play was the issue.  However, the reason the noise was there was  "clutch pack tolerance stack up"  The pack was slightly worn not enough to slip but enough to cause gear clash deep in the transmission when the clutch was disengaged and the pack was pushed inward causing the input shaft to shift deep in the trans.  A new set of clutch disks solved the problem, they were 3 thousands of an inch thicker than the worn ones, total stack up difference of 24 thousands on an inch. That difference prevents the gear clash and the bike is quiet when the clutch is disengaged.  Note the old clutch disks were well within factory spec in the manual. So the summary is when the bikes make this noise replace clutch pack.

[98valk]

what oil are u using? many on Goldwing forums like to do an engine flush every so many miles to clean the clutch plates.
I like to use an oil high in boron which is a great anti-wear and cleaner additive. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729116
Delo diesel is very high in boron.  I'm presently using the new 10w30 formulation, was using the 15w40.  http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%202014/consolidated%20HDEO%202015.html

moly level is same as in mobil1 cycle oils, so zero concerns.

[gordonv]

It almost sounds to me like you have two problems. Possible clutch rivets and the rear pinion cup.

But I don't think that the splines in the cup would last this long, unless you don't do too many miles on the bike.

If you are looking for something to do, then maybe a complete tear down from the rear to the clutch for inspection is in the future. But first, do as suggested and inspect the clutch lever first.

[pitbull]

Thanks for the replies,
If I put slight pressure on the lever, the clutch will slip which is why I want to change it.

The other issue with the snatching could well be the pinion cup but last time I replaced the back tyre the cush drive would just fall out and had quite a bit of play.

It's difficult to put into words what happens but when I shut the throttle the bike jolts a bit as though the drive train is taking up some slack.

I'm having the wheels and pumkin powder coated so I'll inspect the pinion cup then.

The last oil change I used Castrol Act-evo 10-40, I do about 6,000 miles per year.

[98valk]

Thanks for the replies,
If I put slight pressure on the lever, the clutch will slip which is why I want to change it.

The other issue with the snatching could well be the pinion cup but last time I replaced the back tyre the cush drive would just fall out and had quite a bit of play.

It's difficult to put into words what happens but when I shut the throttle the bike jolts a bit as though the drive train is taking up some slack.

I'm having the wheels and pumkin powder coated so I'll inspect the pinion cup then.

The last oil change I used Castrol Act-evo 10-40, I do about 6,000 miles per year.

my damper plate went last yr. I picked up a spare clutch basket assembly from a GW GL1500. The clutch plates were still within spec's at 114k miles. many on GW sites get 300k on the plates and still don't need change out.