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Jruby38
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« on: October 11, 2016, 02:43:09 PM » |
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I can wiggle the bottom half the rear fender. Is this normal? The hex bolts are tight but I still have a little flex at the joint. Any brace rig?
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Jruby38
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« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2016, 05:00:33 PM » |
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The rear section will move at the joint if I give the bottom a lift. Is that normal? The bolts are tight.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2016, 05:12:21 PM » |
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No, the rear fender should not move. Maybe move very slightly.
Is the bolt that holds down the rear seat tight? If so, you could have a stripped welded nut on the back of the front rear fender. (what?)
I had that happen once and had to have a nut re-welded in place on the front rear fender. My welder did a great job, as we were worried about the paint.
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larue
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« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2016, 06:09:16 PM » |
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If the little bolt hole is stripped and can't weld a nut there may be slip the bolt from the inside of the fender out and use a chrome acorn nut to tighten the top and have a nice finish
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Jruby38
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« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2016, 05:02:53 PM » |
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Thanks, I check the seat bolt.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2016, 05:48:29 PM » |
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One of my bikes had a loose rear lower half fender for several years. It's weight holds it down, but it would flex up/out a quarter inch or more on hard bumps or lifting it by hand (no side to side movement). I was worried that this would get worse over time, but it did not as far as I can tell.
When I was in there for a tire change two years ago, I got under and tried to tighten it up, but everything was as tight as can be. There was also some corrosion, but not bad. I did not have time to diddle with it further before replacing the tire.
Big Bill (BF) worked on my bikes after Morgantown, and I asked him about it. He tried to explain the problem under there (all writing), but I didn't understand (metal fatigue?). I dumped out my big bolt and nut can, and he used a poly or urethane washer or spacer to snug up the mount enough to stop the movement. This may not be a permanent solution. Sorry I cannot be more specific.
I picked up a perfect condition black rear fender (upper and lower) at Inzane this year. Just in case.
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Ramie
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« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2016, 05:36:44 AM » |
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more. A deep breath and a leap.”
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Jruby38
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« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2016, 06:34:23 PM » |
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All set now, thanks Hook. I tightened the 8mm bolt that was loose. I had no idea that little bolt is all that holding the bottom section. It took PB Blaster and gun Brakefree CLP to get it freed up.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2016, 03:30:51 AM » |
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All set now, thanks Hook. I tightened the 8mm bolt that was loose. I had no idea that little bolt is all that holding the bottom section. It took PB Blaster and gun Brakefree CLP to get it freed up.
Actually, the fender is held on by the two grab rail bolts with the small bolt keeping it in place.  |
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h13man
Member
Posts: 1756
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2016, 08:08:30 AM » |
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The rear seat bolt is a chromed M6 with a 8mm hex head flange bolt. I suggest replacing it with a standard SS M6 and flat washer and a tad of antisieze for corrosion purposes. Yes its not chrome but who in the heck looks at it? I don't. I also use a thin rubber washer between the seat bracket and the fender.
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Jruby38
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« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2016, 03:29:14 PM » |
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Yes H13man. I removed the hex bolt and put it back with a ss washer and anti seize. I have a nylon tourpack and it covers the bolt anyway.
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