Looking at the Super-Valk Conversion...but not cutting of parts.

[Alberta Patriot]

I have been thinking about doing the Super-Valk Conversion for some time but I did NOT want to cut the Chrome Supports. I have already done a water tight electrical connector to make the wiring disconnect easy and added the fender tail light from the tourer....it is fully functional with a "Back Off" brake light flasher added.
My thought is to drill out or hammer out the Studs on the fender supports(grab rails?) http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2fbdf870023420a31c79/rear-fender-grab-rail
Then tap the holes out to accept M10 Torx Security Screws similar to these:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-M10x20mm-Stainless-Security-Machine/dp/B01MSWHGVX/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483561300&sr=8-4&keywords=m10+x+20mm++torx+screws
It will be slightly more time to R&R than the original Super-Valk but I like the idea that the top case supports are un-molested.
Thoughts Anyone??...Thanks

[Jess from VA]

Do what you want, but the slotting method has worked for a thousand or so.  It really cannot be seen when the trunk is on.  No one has ever reported the trunk stolen. 

And I think any rational buyer downstream would be happier with a quick change ability rather than a tricky harder change (though I don't really know how much more work it would be).

[Alberta Patriot]

Do what you want, but the slotting method has worked for a thousand or so.  It really cannot be seen when the trunk is on.  No one has ever reported the trunk stolen.  

And I think any rational buyer downstream would be happier with a quick change ability rather than a tricky harder change (though I don't really know how much more work it would be).

I am not really concerned about theft...I just like the look of those Torx button head screws...I also am not hung up on future value regarding the cutting of the supports...as it is a keeper for a while. My main question is, and I should have mentioned it on the original post...is regarding those studs...are they splined? because it would be nice to just drive them out instead of drilling them out. Thanks

[Dusty]

 So do you have two people to remove and replace the trunk every time ? I have the slotted  struts and the trunk is heavy, un balanced and awkward to install on the studs. Now add the issue of trying to line up bolts while holding the trunk from behind. I'm not saying something couldn't be built to support it to assemble. Let us know how you make out.

Dusty

[Alberta Patriot]

So do you have two people to remove and replace the trunk every time ? I have the slotted  struts and the trunk is heavy, un balanced and awkward to install on the studs. Now add the issue of trying to line up bolts while holding the trunk from behind. I'm not saying something couldn't be built to support it to assemble. Let us know how you make out.

Dusty

I am going to go ahead and order the Screws and when they arrive I am going to have a serious look at ways to make aligning the Top Case fairly simple to do...and yes if it works out I will take pictures and post all the steps to getting it done. And Thanks for pointing out the possible problem of mounting the case without help.

[gordonv]

I too would agree it would be awkward to support the whole trunk while trying to remove the bolts holding it in. I do understand how you are intending to fasten it.

Those studs are welded onto the tabs on the rails. They are about 1/4" "heads" on those bolts. I would think if where to cut them off almost flush to the outside of the tab, then locate the centre, and using a large drill, drill them till flush with the tab.

Then drill right though, using the proper size drill so you can just use the "head" on the other side as your nut. Tap out the hole, so it's threaded.

To remove the trunk, I would then remove if from the rail, 5 bolts. Then remove the rail.

Another method, loosen the mounting bolts. Support the rear of the trunk, remove the rear 2 bolts, lift up the rear of the trunk, till the supports clear the mounting holes, and replace the bolts. Rest the trunk back down on the bolts. Then remove the 2 front bolts while supporting the trunk. Lift off.

[Alberta Patriot]

I too would agree it would be awkward to support the whole trunk while trying to remove the bolts holding it in. I do understand how you are intending to fasten it.

Those studs are welded onto the tabs on the rails. They are about 1/4" "heads" on those bolts. I would think if where to cut them off almost flush to the outside of the tab, then locate the centre, and using a large drill, drill them till flush with the tab.

Then drill right though, using the proper size drill so you can just use the "head" on the other side as your nut. Tap out the hole, so it's threaded.

To remove the trunk, I would then remove if from the rail, 5 bolts. Then remove the rail.

Another method, loosen the mounting bolts. Support the rear of the trunk, remove the rear 2 bolts, lift up the rear of the trunk, till the supports clear the mounting holes, and replace the bolts. Rest the trunk back down on the bolts. Then remove the 2 front bolts while supporting the trunk. Lift off.

The studs were the biggest question for me, and as you say if welded instead of splined that will provide additional material to be threaded.
I will be drilling out the studs starting with small pilot holes first and work that up to the drill size req'd and tapping for M10 screws. I am also looking for existing hardware that can be easily modified to mechanically locate the front of the trunk supports in place so that there is no difficulty with inserting the Torx Screws... thanks for the info.    For now just dismantling everything and having a good look at how to start is step 1. I have had it all apart once already to install and wire the Tourer Tail Light, so I am somewhat familiar with that part.
I have a son who track races an R6 and another son who rides dirt with his modified CR250 so I am going to (hopefully)recruit them for some of the machining steps. The track racing son is a shop teacher and has resources that will be very helpful....again thanks

[Pete]

I did not like cutting or drilling parts either.
But I knew that once I took the trunk off I would probably never put it back on.
The trunk in my mind is ugly, mounted to high and to far backward. The weight and wind resistance that high and that far rearward just seemed to  be a bad idea. Compound that with more weigh as you load gear makes it a worse idea.

So buy a set of chrome fender struts for a standard and swap them with the IS struts. No drilling, no sawing, slightly lighter in weight parts. And the lost of the trunk and mount weight is major. And you can use a passenger back rest, rear rack, rear seat bar or nothing.

The struts cost me $50 at a bike junk yard.

I can always swap back with a little work and should I sell the buyer can make their own choice.

I fact I have never remounted the trunk.
The bike looks better handles better is lighter and more aero.
What is not to like.

[Alberta Patriot]

I did not like cutting or drilling parts either.
But I knew that once I took the trunk off I would probably never put it back on.
The trunk in my mind is ugly, mounted to high and to far backward. The weight and wind resistance that high and that far rearward just seemed to  be a bad idea. Compound that with more weigh as you load gear makes it a worse idea.

So buy a set of chrome fender struts for a standard and swap them with the IS struts. No drilling, no sawing, slightly lighter in weight parts. And the lost of the trunk and mount weight is major. And you can use a passenger back rest, rear rack, rear seat bar or nothing.

The struts cost me $50 at a bike junk yard.

I can always swap back with a little work and should I sell the buyer can make their own choice.

I fact I have never remounted the trunk.
The bike looks better handles better is lighter and more aero.
What is not to like.

That is all well and good for a large part of my riding...but...I do a lot of touring with Missuz on the back so if she found out it was permanent she would have my  Grapes   for breakfast.

[BradValk48237]

I wanted to do the mod, But i didn't like the way the slot mod looked...

So I did something different.....



I cut the slots at the same angle as you can see... so now when the trunk is on and the nuts tightened down you can BARELY see the cuts..... this way the trunk drops on much easier.. you don't have to do the tilt and slide as on the usual cut and you don't have to shave the front of the bracket. These cuts will hold the trunk in place even with the nuts loose (at least for the 300 miles I rode until I noticed!!!).. no one has ever noticed they are modified.

I can easily drop it on by myself.....As a matter of fact, if I'm on a trip and staying in one place for a longer period, I will take the trunk off and leave it where Im staying. Takes 5 min and I keep a dedicated wrench in the trunk. (just ask the Wild Bunch.... ) I also run a Solo seat all the time..leaves more room for my cooler.

Doing it your way will be prettier, but like someone above said, a next to impossible job to mount it alone.
And for all the trouble you are going to, you could pick up some used brackets cheap, cut those and leave the old ones unmolested... hell I don't think they are even that pricy brand new.... I had to replace mine after and accident....

Just my 2 cents...

B

[Alberta Patriot]

I wanted to do the mod, But i didn't like the way the slot mod looked...

So I did something different.....



I cut the slots at the same angle as you can see... so now when the trunk is on and the nuts tightened down you can BARELY see the cuts..... this way the trunk drops on much easier.. you don't have to do the tilt and slide as on the usual cut and you don't have to shave the front of the bracket. These cuts will hold the trunk in place even with the nuts loose (at least for the 300 miles I rode until I noticed!!!).. no one has ever noticed they are modified.

I can easily drop it on by myself.....As a matter of fact, if I'm on a trip and staying in one place for a longer period, I will take the trunk off and leave it where Im staying. Takes 5 min and I keep a dedicated wrench in the trunk. (just ask the Wild Bunch.... ) I also run a Solo seat all the time..leaves more room for my cooler.

Doing it your way will be prettier, but like someone above said, a next to impossible job to mount it alone.
And for all the trouble you are going to, you could pick up some used brackets cheap, cut those and leave the old ones unmolested... hell I don't think they are even that pricy brand new.... I had to replace mine after and accident....

Just my 2 cents...

B

Ya.. the thought of those Acorn Nuts coming loose did cross my mind, and I am going to turn everything over a few time before I take a drill or saw to the parts, and those M10 Torx screws will come in handy at some point if I decide to go the slot cuttiing route...and ...I hadn't considered used parts  ...Thanks

[Bagger John - #3785]

On two of the sets of I/S fender rails I have, I cut the studs off flush with the "ears". Then, I carefully marked the centers of the studs and drilled them out with an M8-1.25 tap drill, after which they were tapped.

The front "ears" of each set of rails had an 8mm bolt run into them. An 8mm flange nut was threaded down the bolts and snugged against each ear, then the nuts were welded into place on the back sides. This gives a bit of extra thread.

Since the fenders of both my Valkyries are black, I'm going to paint the ears on one set black and completely powdercoat the other set of rails - this to match the I/S' blacked-out theme. I might powdercoat just the ears on the first set if the chrome will stand up to the temps of the curing oven without discoloring.

[gordonv]

Pictures of what you had done? How much room between the welded on nuts on the inside and the fender?

The powder coat oven goes to 400-425. I don't think that would blue the chrome.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Pictures of what you had done?

I'll drag one of the rails out of the 'to-do' pile and snap a couple. Need to do a slight bit of finish grinding on the welds. (No, you can't see it...but I know it's there...!)

How much room between the welded on nuts on the inside and the fender?

I haven't mounted them to the bike(s) yet but going from the measurements I took before I started, there looks to be in excess of 1/8".

The powder coat oven goes to 400-425. I don't think that would blue the chrome.

Kinda what I figured as well. I'm going to get all this stuff to our local outfit in the next couple of months and then look at putting it on the bikes come spring/summer.

[Alberta Patriot]

Hey...thanks everybody...I guess just making the cuts would be the smart  way to go but the M10 Torx screws are on the way from Amazon so I am going to wait 'till they arrive before pulling the Trunk apart. To be updated...

[Paxton]

Quote from Pete: "... The trunk in my mind is ugly, mounted to high and to far backward.

Pete, I agree with you. Get rid of the darn huge trunk. 
Send it to me. I'll pay for the shippin'!

[_Sheffjs_]

Excellent thread    I have done three Super Valks and one was for a friend but now I have a Tourer with IS fender struts, not for a trunk, as even on my Interstates once I took off the trunk it never went back on and the wife was happier with a sissy because the trunk arm supports were "to high for comfort" but back to my Tourer, I have Interstate struts powder coated black because when Solo I love the clean look. When putting the sissy (not trunk) back on it would be better to not have the studs as mentioned above.  So, please post pic of the finished work as I am very interested.  One more side thought, not to be negative on trunks however I just felt for the weight it did not give a tremendous amount of storage. Thought, use modified sissy with supports (if you have a passenger) and when traveling LD then add the Interstate trunk's support bracket as well without the trunk. Simply toss a travel bag of choice on and when at the stopover take the bag off and into wherever you stay.  

[gordonv]

when traveling LD then add the Interstate trunk's support bracket as well without the trunk. Simply toss a travel bag of choice on and when at the stopover take the bag off and into wherever you stay.  

You are referring to just removing the bag from the support, and leaving the support on the bike and travel around locally, or are you saying to remove the trunk supports (Super Valk it) from the bike?

Very interesting, I like the idea, but I like having the trunk very much. I haven't been able to get my 2 HJC flip helmets into the trunk yet, I just hang one, but I can have the wife's purse (luggage) quickly placed in there.

I love the looks of the IS with the trunk, and actually never see myself doing the Super Valk mod, but removing the trunk, running with a backrest and maybe super valk the trunk supports, now that might be something to think about.

A spare support, with the cross bars cut back to the supports, I can still mount the radio & CB ant there, and a platform for a bag strapped on. Would give the bike a very nice look.

[Pete]

Quote from Pete: "... The trunk in my mind is ugly, mounted to high and to far backward.

Pete, I agree with you. Get rid of the darn huge trunk. 
Send it to me. I'll pay for the shippin'!

I started to sell it and then it dawned on me that if there is another owner they may want to remount it.
So I packed it up with all the parts and stored it.

Later I realized the last vehicle I sold was in 1988, so maybe me selling it may never happen. Oops.
But still it goes with the IS when I am done with it or it with me.