Clutch switch intermittent

[redripper]

Problem: From time to time would not crank when in gear and clutch pulled in. Cycling the clutch lever with the start switch held depressed would cause  it to crank.

Here is what I  discovered. Took off the switch and observed the operation by pushing the button on the end to cause the contacts to close. I have much experience with relays and contact operation from 40 years in the elevator service trade. The contacts would close and wipe when the button was FULLY depressed flush with the switch body.  "Wipe" is a term used for the slight horizontal movement of one of the contact surfaces against the other. Wipe  is a cleaning action Incorporated into most all mating contact operations.

I re installed the switch and very closely, with a flashlight, observed the switch operation, specifically the button , when pulling the clutch in. I could see that the button was about 1/16 inch from being flush with the switch housing. Note above, button needed to be flush with the housing to " wipe". I saw the button was not pressed completely in the last 1/16 of button travel  to cause contact wipe.

Not the Cause: Not the clutch lever bushing. Not ware of the switch or contact deterioration.

The CAUSE as I see it, is the iso-grips! The OD of the Iso-grip is greater than the stock grip thus the clutch lever does not pull as far as needed to get the last 1/16 inch of the switch button travel.

Solution: Remove the clutch lever and see where the switch button strike area is. It's a flat surface about 3/8"  X 1/2". I cemented a 1/16" thick piece of aluminum plate "shim" onto the flat surface which now allows the switch button to be pushed flush with the switch body. So far not a failure to crank in gear clutch pulled into grip.
 
Your application may be somewhat different due to different grips. Be sure that if you add something to your lever that it's not too thick and cause pressure against the switch body. You can check the switch button action after you add the "shim".

[Bighead]

ISO grs o mine for 15 + yrs and not a problem.

[Chrisj CMA]

Problem: From time to time would not crank when in gear and clutch pulled in. Cycling the clutch lever with the start switch held depressed would cause  it to crank.

Here is what I  discovered. Took off the switch and observed the operation by pushing the button on the end to cause the contacts to close. I have much experience with relays and contact operation from 40 years in the elevator service trade. The contacts would close and wipe when the button was FULLY depressed flush with the switch body.  "Wipe" is a term used for the slight horizontal movement of one of the contact surfaces against the other. Wipe  is a cleaning action Incorporated into most all mating contact operations.

I re installed the switch and very closely, with a flashlight, observed the switch operation, specifically the button , when pulling the clutch in. I could see that the button was about 1/16 inch from being flush with the switch housing. Note above, button needed to be flush with the housing to " wipe". I saw the button was not pressed completely in the last 1/16 of button travel  to cause contact wipe.

Not the Cause: Not the clutch lever bushing. Not ware of the switch or contact deterioration.

The CAUSE as I see it, is the iso-grips! The OD of the Iso-grip is greater than the stock grip thus the clutch lever does not pull as far as needed to get the last 1/16 inch of the switch button travel.

Solution: Remove the clutch lever and see where the switch button strike area is. It's a flat surface about 3/8"  X 1/2". I cemented a 1/16" thick piece of aluminum plate "shim" onto the flat surface which now allows the switch button to be pushed flush with the switch body. So far not a failure to crank in gear clutch pulled into grip.
 
Your application may be somewhat different due to different grips. Be sure that if you add something to your lever that it's not too thick and cause pressure against the switch body. You can check the switch button action after you add the "shim".

What is the year and mileage of your Valkyrie?

[Jess from VA]

I have read (here) that small clearance issues with lever switches can be attributed to worn and/or out of round brass lever pivot bushings. 

[Firefighter]

Never heard of the "Wipe" operation, learned something new! Thanks

[Joevalk]

Maybe try to bend the lever a lil for your clearance.
Close and open is the only terms I've ever known.
Wipe, to me is a bathroom term

[Earl43P]

Clutch (and brake) levers, just like the bushing, are WEAR items.

You should expect to have to replace them due to wear on the contact surface (which, from your description, you bonded a shim onto). Your frugality is noteworthy. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Clutch (and brake) levers, just like the bushing, are WEAR items.

You should expect to have to replace them due to wear on the contact surface (which, from your description, you bonded a shim onto). Your frugality is noteworthy. 

Apparently he has a lever bushing that doesn't wear. Lol. He'll find out soon when that bandaid fix stops working too.

Literally hundreds of thousands of miles on Valkyries with ISO grips and he discovers it's the grips.

Even with ISO grips the Interlock switch Clicks when the handle is around a half inch from the grip. A worn bushing is the only thing I can think of that would reduce that clearance.

[WintrSol]

I use clear drive chain lube on my lever bushings; it penetrates the joint well, doesn't drip out, and seems to last more than one riding season. Basically, I use it on all moving parts, like the rear brake, too. Of course, it will take time to see if it helps the bushings last longer.

[MaverickValk]

Problem: From time to time would not crank when in gear and clutch pulled in. Cycling the clutch lever with the start switch held depressed would cause  it to crank.

Here is what I  discovered. Took off the switch and observed the operation by pushing the button on the end to cause the contacts to close. I have much experience with relays and contact operation from 40 years in the elevator service trade. The contacts would close and wipe when the button was FULLY depressed flush with the switch body.  "Wipe" is a term used for the slight horizontal movement of one of the contact surfaces against the other. Wipe  is a cleaning action Incorporated into most all mating contact operations.

I re installed the switch and very closely, with a flashlight, observed the switch operation, specifically the button , when pulling the clutch in. I could see that the button was about 1/16 inch from being flush with the switch housing. Note above, button needed to be flush with the housing to " wipe". I saw the button was not pressed completely in the last 1/16 of button travel  to cause contact wipe.

Not the Cause: Not the clutch lever bushing. Not ware of the switch or contact deterioration.

The CAUSE as I see it, is the iso-grips! The OD of the Iso-grip is greater than the stock grip thus the clutch lever does not pull as far as needed to get the last 1/16 inch of the switch button travel.

Solution: Remove the clutch lever and see where the switch button strike area is. It's a flat surface about 3/8"  X 1/2". I cemented a 1/16" thick piece of aluminum plate "shim" onto the flat surface which now allows the switch button to be pushed flush with the switch body. So far not a failure to crank in gear clutch pulled into grip.
 
Your application may be somewhat different due to different grips. Be sure that if you add something to your lever that it's not too thick and cause pressure against the switch body. You can check the switch button action after you add the "shim".

I shimed/built up my contact surface by applying I think 3 layers of aluminum duct tape, the kind that's used on HVAC ducts.

It's been on there for several years with no problems. If you have a problem with your shim not holding, this might hold better. If you used something like JB Weld, it should hold forever. No big deal if you have to redo it at some point. Bighead is going to send me a good used set of levers so I will be able to replace mine, tape and all.

[Bighead]

Yes I said I would but don't know where I put your address pm it to me and I will do it

[baldo]

I believe I have the same issue now. For the first year or so with this bike, I could start it in gear with the clutch pulled. Now it will only start in neutral....

[John Schmidt]

First BIG issue is the fact you're using the clutch switch to start the bike while in gear, instead of the safe approach by having the bike in neutral. That switch really wasn't meant to be used for that purpose. Chatting with some Honda folks during a plant tour some time ago, when asked about that and a few other items.....it was emphasized that switch is meant for use in a semi-emergency situation such as killing the motor at a light or in traffic. A riding safety course, if it's thorough, will also emphasize the fact of starting the bike in neutral. It doesn't happen very often, but a couple times in my 60+ years of riding I've seen a bike take off when started in gear. A coincidental failure of the clutch system caused it to engage so as soon as the bike started.....big surprise....off it went. Like I said....I've only seen it happen a couple times.

My suggestion would be first to look at the bushing referred to in other posts. Second, from now on put the bike in neutral before starting. Simply stated......"stuff happens." 

[redripper]

The big girl is a 2000 IS 91K miles.
 
I did check the bushing as it was my first consideration. After reading reply's I see there are several possibilities that through synergy may manifest the problem. To the best of my knowledge  ( 3rd. owner) the levers are stock, if chrome was an OEM option. Perhaps the "button" plunger may have also worn some. My switch took about 3/4 pulled to click.

As to the starting in gear. Well maybe I could start that however I have a difficult time finding neutral when not running. I do park in gear as that is what I was taught to minimize rolling off the side stand if on a grade or bumped in a lot.

Thanks to all offering input to this post.

[John Schmidt]

The big girl is a 2000 IS 91K miles.
 
I did check the bushing as it was my first consideration. After reading reply's I see there are several possibilities that through synergy may manifest the problem. To the best of my knowledge  ( 3rd. owner) the levers are stock, if chrome was an OEM option. Perhaps the "button" plunger may have also worn some. My switch took about 3/4 pulled to click.

As to the starting in gear. Well maybe I could start that however I have a difficult time finding neutral when not running. I do park in gear as that is what I was taught to minimize rolling off the side stand if on a grade or bumped in a lot.

Thanks to all offering input to this post.

Good for you...for the very reasons you gave. 

[Bighead]

The big girl is a 2000 IS 91K miles.
 
I did check the bushing as it was my first consideration. After reading reply's I see there are several possibilities that through synergy may manifest the problem. To the best of my knowledge  ( 3rd. owner) the levers are stock, if chrome was an OEM option. Perhaps the "button" plunger may have also worn some. My switch took about 3/4 pulled to click.

As to the starting in gear. Well maybe I could start that however I have a difficult time finding neutral when not running. I do park in gear as that is what I was taught to minimize rolling off the side stand if on a grade or bumped in a lot.

Thanks to all offering input to this post.

No chrome levers are not stock. OEM levers are brushed aluminum.