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Author Topic: How my secondary fuel tank is installed.  (Read 1203 times)
cheeseman1969
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Posts: 105


Hastings NE


« on: January 29, 2017, 07:13:01 PM »

I was asked by a few people to show how I did my secondary tank on the big girl. The tank and rack was made by some kids in welding class. The teacher I know very well and trust him. When I bought her 4.5 years ago, we had some plumping for it but the family (owner died) could not find the tank. So I had another one built and a new rack for it. This is the back of the bike and my Man Cave where all the magic happens. Magic in that the beer always disappears!!



This is under the air box. After this pic was taken this AM, I installed that Dan Marco.



This is just a little bit farther back. The top of the TEE goes to the back and the secondary tank. the left goes to the petco and main tank. Right to engine.



This on the left side and where the top of the tee in the previous pic comes out. I use to have that regulaltor on the back but moved it up front.



This is the fuel line. When the seat comes on, it just fits under there. Snug fit but not tight. I have a mustang seat but when I had the standard seat it fit too.



This is the rear. Again the line will mostly be under the seat and the rest is zip tighted up to the side. Another Dan Marco that I just install. I use to have a manual value up front but go tired of turning it on and off and at times forgetting about it. So when I switched from second tank to the main tank, the fuel would drain back. Now I just hit a switch to open or close. After that there is a fuel filter and then wraps to a fuel pump under there. When the tank is full, I don't need it but when it gets about 1/3 full and I am doing over 60, I will have to turn the pump on. Again, another switch on the handlebars.



Under the rack and tank. Fuel pump and filter is there.



This is the rack that was made by the kids in welding class. I like it. I added the rubber and edge protectors. It is really really snug in there BUT when it gets empty, it still moves up slightly. So I have two elastic bands that go over the whole thing.  You see one in the picture but I want to do something different.



This is how the rack it attached. 4 bolts on each side in the trailer hitch. Yes I did not like that but it works.




Oh, I put extra lights on the rack too. I connected that via the trailer wiring.

I hope this helps someone. If any questions just ask.
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Gary "Cheeseman"
USN "weather guesser" Retired
Been everywhere...
MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2017, 08:18:10 PM »

Looks like a good start.  I'm sure there will be several tweaks as you fine tune the prototype. Keep us posted on your adjustments.  Such projects are always fun and a great way to get chromatherapy while waiting for the season to roll around.
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15216


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2017, 08:42:35 PM »

Nice work, keep us up to date on how it operates for you, any shortfalls, etc.

PS: It's Dan Marc....not Marco.   cooldude
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cheeseman1969
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Posts: 105


Hastings NE


« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2017, 08:49:46 AM »

Actually, I have been running this for 3 years now. This stage is the "fine tune" part. Everything is the same as before but the Dan Marc and moving the regulator is all. I get about 230-250 miles at 65-70 with this setup. The only thing that I wish was to put baffles in the tank. I only feel it when the tank is completely full but not bad at all.  I run the back dry first then switch to main tank so when the petco goes off, I know that it is time. But most of the time, I am ready at the 230-250 mile anyway.

P.S. Dan Marc... yes.. added the extra O in. LOL..
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Gary "Cheeseman"
USN "weather guesser" Retired
Been everywhere...
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