Building My Mold... It's Done And On The Bike!

[The emperor has no clothes]

Very interesting  I think it's looking good also.

[Verismo]

That is looking SOOO cool!!  I can really see how, once polished and painted, it's going to be a thing of beauty!  Also, fits the raging bull motif of the new Valk quite well.  What a bunch of work!  Can't wait to see all the progress.

[_Sheffjs_]

Thanks, Brian.

Yes, _Sheffjs_, I have a J.W. Speaker Evolution 2 7" headlight I'll be using (see posts about this earlier in the thread).  If the fairing works well I will eventually change to a J.W. Speaker "Adaptive" 7" headlight.  But that is an $800 price tag, so the fairing has to be working really well for me to make the change to that!

Bill

Bill you do quality work. And it looks like you have been doing this type of fabricating just a couple of times,  LOL.    I'm convinced, looks wise you will be batting this out of the park and for me the headlight change is a hit as well.   Good luck -  "pioneer'

[Kidd]

Looks interesting , not sure I see the '56 Jag yet

[Bill Havins]

Kidd,

Our Valkyries have that "wet clay smoothed by hand" look to them (IMHO).  So does the Jag.  When the headlight is mounted (with its rather wide chrome trim ring) and when the fairing is finally painted I hope it reflects the "organic" feel of the Jag.  We'll see....

Bill

[Jess from VA]

Handlebars at full lock to left (it clears the radiator cowl!):



What if you hit a hard bump in a fast, hard-leaning sweeper?  That's pretty close, with the shock fully extended.

I'm not trying to throw stones here.  Nice work.   

[sleepngbear]

This is awesome. I love the progress pics -- helps us to appreciate the work that goes into this kind of fabrication for those of us that are all thumbs. Great work. 

[Bill Havins]

Hi, Jess.

As soon as I type all this I bet you'll say, "Well of course.  Duh!"

The fairing mounts to the triple clamps using four 8mm bolts (see earlier post in this thread).  If you stop and think about it, that causes it to behave like a frame-mounted fairing except when you're doing very slow-speed maneuvers like backing out of a parking space, moving the bike in the garage, etc.  The only time that the handlebars are turned to "full lock" is when you are performing such maneuvers.  And since the fairing "acts" like a frame mounted piece, it's relationship to the radiator cowls will always be the same when near or at "full lock."  As long as there is about 12 mm of clearance between the fairing and the radiator cowl at "full lock" everything is peachy; the status of the suspension has absolutely no bearing on this clearance issue.

Now, I don't know about you, but when I'm moving "at speed" in a tight sweeper I shift my weight on the bike and press down on the end of the handlebars in the direction I'm turning - I don't move the handlebars from neutral.  When the handlebars are in a neutral position the clearance between the fairing and the radiator cowls is a non-issue - the fairing never gets close to the radiator cowls.  The suspension can do what it needs to and the fairing will be just fine.

Make sense?

Bill

[Jess from VA]

Sure it does Bill.  I'm just one of those guys who always looks for the worst thing that can happen.  I'm never hoping it happens, just trying to plan ahead.   

You're absolutely right that we never ride at full lock (or really even close) at any speed. 

Your well thought out design shows just how much trouble those rad. cowls cause regarding a fairing.

A traditional full coverage fairing would have to be like a foot in front of the headlight to clear the cowls. 

[Bill Havins]

Sure it does Bill.  I'm just one of those guys who always looks for the worst thing that can happen.  I'm never hoping it happens, just trying to plan ahead.   

You're absolutely right that we never ride at full lock (or really even close) at any speed. 

Your well thought out design shows just how much trouble those rad. cowls cause regarding a fairing.

A traditional full coverage fairing would have to be like a foot in front of the headlight to clear the cowls. 

I do like you do, Jess (try to anticipate what might happen).

You know, I bought this bike expecting it to be my last (getting kinda' old).  And part of the reason I bought a Honda was I "wouldn't have to work on it."

After riding Moto Guzzis for almost 40 years you'd think I'd get used to fabricating my own accessories.  I never expected I'd be doing this with the Valkyrie.  But once I get it finished I won't have to do it again.  (Did I really just type that?)

Bill

[_Sheffjs_]

You are not doing it again?  What about the orders for this system we just put in?   

[Bill Havins]

Ohhhh....

[CajunRider]

Dude... that looks AWESOME!!!    

That's close to what I think the F6B should have been... (As opposed to a Wing without the trunk.)
- Fork mounted fairing
- Standard saddle bags
- Optional floor boards

Keep going!!! I can't wait to see the final product! 

[Bill Havins]

You are not doing it again?  What about the orders for this system we just put in?   

Jerry,

I know you were joking.  But I will say this, if this fairing works well, and I do mean WELL, I will be glad to knock some out as people request them.  Now, I will be doing all the work myself - there are not enough Valkyries in the world to put this in "production" so it will have to be a "bespoke" kind of item (i.e., produced one-at-a-time when requested).  I would keep the price very modest (I don't want to start a business at this point in my life).

The fairing is based on a National Cycle windshield designed for the F6B.  The cost is modest (I paid about $149 if I remember correctly).  They could be had for less if ordered in quantity.

But, I'm not willing to sell this to anyone unless it really "knocks the ball out of the park."  We'll see....

Bill

[_Sheffjs_]

With everything many here have done to the 1800c, I wonder what the designers at Honda are doing in the 1800 catagory if at all. Do they troll for thoughts? I doubt it however if I was at Honda I would be interested in all types of forums.   

Bill, even if it does not do what you want I like the more traditional headlight look.  Sorry just me.

There are a few here that do not have a passenger and can keep the solo naked look.  I love this look, and feel Honda did this bike for this reason, and they felt the B was the other option. Maybe they thought at the last minute, hey, we need bags and stuff for this.  Who knows?  Would be interesting to be a fly on the wall at Honda. 

Bill can you do me a favor? Next time you pop off the mold can you take a couple of pictures of the bare triple trees but with the entire bike in the pic. Maybe front, side and in between? 

[Bill Havins]

Jerry,

I'll be back in the garage in a bit.  I'll send you a few photos.  Please send me your email address via PM and I'll just email them to you.

Bill

[_Sheffjs_]

Thanks Bill. 

[bscrive]

Bill,

The more I look at the picture, the more I like the design.  Keep going.   

[Bill Havins]

Thanks, Brian.

I'm into the "fiddly" work now.  Attempting to ensure everything is symmetrical, carefully rounding fillets, and otherwise standing in one place and sanding, and sanding, and sanding, and....  I hope to get to shoot primer later this week.  I'll post a photo once the primer is on and sanded.

Then it's another week of careful sanding and filling pinholes, then shooting color.  But for now I have to be very, very patient - just can't rush this stage.  I'll post a photo when the gloss coat is on and sanded/polished.

After the gloss coat is done I will begin to build the mold from fiberglass.  When it has cured I can "lay up" the real thing using epoxy resin and many light weight layers of fiberglass.  I think it will weigh about ten pounds with the windshield attached.

Bill

[bscrive]

Hey Bill,

Will the finished fairing be the exact dimensions as your mock-up?  If not, then I would agree with Jess that you should give more space for the pods.

My other 2 cents is: the more I look at the fairing, the more I think that the transition from the fairing to the headlight out-crop needs a smoother transition on top of the headlight and the sides.  I think the fairing would look better with smoother lines above and the sides of the headlight and not the sharp inside crease around the headlight.  Otherwise, it may look like the headlight was an afterthought.  Maybe add some more filler around the headlight to make it more integrated with the fairing.  Our bikes don't seem to have any sharp lines like that.  I hope I described my thoughts correctly.    As I said, it's just my thoughts.

I really do love the overall shape of that fairing.  I am anxious to see the finished product.

[Bill Havins]

Brian,

Those things have already been done.  (Fixed my post.)

Bill

[bscrive]

Brian,

Those things have already been done.  (Fixed my post.)

Bill

Awesome Bill.  Now, I am even more interested. 


Brian

[Bill Havins]

For those who are interested here's a quick update - I hope to have new photos up by the end of this week (lots going on with work and life in general).

I am near the end of "balancing" elements of the fairing (i.e., ensuring everything is symmetrical).  Still fine tuning all of the rounding that has to be done to edges, the headlight where it meets the main body, etc.

As I have said before, I am doing everything by hand and "following my nose" as far as the design goes.  This is just too big for 3D printing to be of any help; a print this big would cost thousands of dollars and wouldn't really "shortstop" the process.  And to do a 3D print I'd have to do all of this in CAD; to do that I'd have to 3D scan the front of the bike - that would be a huge expense, too.  So, this project has turned into a sculpture-like effort and that just isn't a fast process (compared to CAD, 3D printing, and all of the modern techniques that we are used to).

So, I'll grab breakfast in a minute and get to work.  We'll see where things are at the end of the day.

Bill

[st2sam]

Thanks for the update Bill.

No hurry on my end, 30" of new snow last week. 

[Bill Havins]

Here is an "in process" image for those who are interested.  I just sprayed primer on the headlight nacelle and scoop area of the fairing model (you'll notice the primer is still wet - hadn't had enough time to "flash").



Anyway, I'm getting ready to putty surface blemishes and there are a bunch of them.  I'll have to shoot at least two more coats of primer before applying putty.

Brian, you'll notice the "gentle" fillet around the headlight nacelle.  Yes, Our Valkyries don't have many straight lines.

Okay, back to work!

Bill

[bscrive]

Looks good Bill. 

You have a lot more patience then I do.  I hate any type of bodywork.  Filing in those small holes and sanding them would drive me crazy.

Have fun.

[Jambriwal]

Bill have enjoyed following your work on the Fairing. Looks like you have made great progress.
Hoping there are going to be some more updates soon.
Jim

[Bill Havins]

Thanks, Jim.

Work has been a bit demanding so I haven't been able to get much done.  But I have about a 64 hour stretch coming up where I hope to get all of the "detailing" done.  Then it's several coats of primer followed by "blocking" (sanding) the model with 220 grit sandpaper until I'm entirely covered by gray "slurry."  The model should almost shine.

The middle of this next week I have a gallon of a black epoxy surface coating coming in.  As soon as I can I'll brush on two coats of that and, after it's cured, I'll sand it to a mirror finish with progressive grits of sandpaper.  When that is done I can finally begin to build the mold for this thing.  I'll try to remember to post photos along the way.

I sure hope this thing works...

Cheers!

Bill

[Bill Havins]

Just a little update.

I should get my epoxy surface coating today.  But our weather is expected to turn rainy/stormy before the day is over so I can't apply the resin - humidity is an issue for curing the resin.

I can't do the final detailing until after I apply the resin.  Why?  The materials I have been using are too soft to hold fine detail; after two coats of epoxy surface coating are applied I can use "automotive" body work materials on the model.  Those materials will hold fine detail.

Two images.  Model covered in primer awaiting application of the black epoxy surface coat.





Cheers!

Bill

[bscrive]

That is looking really good Bill.   

[Kidd]

Looks like a giant puppy dog , in a good way 

[sleepngbear]

Beautiful work, Bill! Love the shape. Can't wait to see it with color.

[goldstar903]

Looks like a giant puppy dog , in a good way  

So you're saying that it is a "Ruff" draft?  

[bscrive]

Hey Bill,

I looked at the video you did showing off the fairing on your bike and I think it looks better on the video than the still pictures do.  I am really liking the look on the valk and if you decide to do two prototypes, keep me in mind for the second one.   


Brian

[Bill Havins]

Brian,

I pulled the video.  I shot the video on the spur of the moment last night and, when I looked at it this morning it struck me that I sounded like some officious pompous blowhard that thought a whole lot of himself.  I didn't care for it at all.  Maybe I'll do another one later.

Yes, the video really demonstrated the complexities of the model - curves that go this way and that way, blending into each other at impossible angles....  No wonder I'm pooped.

My plan is to do this - I'll test this thing like crazy, even to speeds in excess of 120 MPH (on a race track, of course).  I am going to watch for turbulence and head buffeting.  I think I already know where the "problems" are.  And as I encounter them, I'll try to resolve them one-at-a-time until I get to the point where I'm satisfied.  If I get to the point where I'm satisfied (and willing to put my name on them) we'll decide how to proceed with more builds.

Years ago (while my son was serving with the Army in Iraq - had to keep my mind occupied) I was involved in a group effort to develop a three-axis digital readout for hobby machinists (it was used on lathes and mills, etc.).  We got into the practice of using "group buys" to lower costs of components for each member of the group.  I think J.W. Speaker, National Cycle, and the folks who made the headlight trim ring would lower prices for "quantity orders" if there is enough interest.  But that is "down the road."

By the way, Brian, you really ought to have one of my switch modules for your Rostra Cruise.  I have three more circuit boards and will build one for you if you'll buy the parts (about $30US IIRC).  I'll be creating the mold for the redesigned enclosure in a few days/weeks - I'd like your opinion.



Cheers!

Bill

[bscrive]

Bill,

I do like the look of your switch.  Where would the switch be located on the bars and how much would the total cost be for the switch module?

Brian

[Bill Havins]

Brian,

The switch module mounts to the left mirror stalk.  Unscrew the stalk, center the hole on the switch module bracket over the receiving threads for the stalk, and screw the stalk back in place.  It raises the mirror 3 to 4mm.  Here's a photo of my earlier switch module mounted over the left hand grip:



The new one centers better, and sits closer to the OEM switches.

The parts I would want reimbursement for are the two toggle switches and a few other items.  Here's a link to the toggle switches (the image on the linked page is incorrect): http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M2018WBW01virtualkey63300000virtualkey633-M2018WBW01 

I think I can keep it to $40 total if you are really interested.  The unit is waterproof.  I use a sealed connector/cable to attach mine to the Rostra Cruise wiring harness.  I can wire the switch end of that connector/cable for you - you'd have to do the connector on your Rostra Cruise wiring harness (I'll provide a wiring diagram).  This replaces the switch assembly you bought from Rostra Cruise.

You can run the cruise with your left thumb and you can see the LEDs in daylight!

Send me a PM if you'd like.

Bill

[Bill Havins]

This morning I'm fitting the windshield to the model.  That means I'm running this $150 windshield through the band saw - not a good time to sneeze.

These V-Stream windshields are funny critters.  This one is very concave at the bottom (to fit the F6B fairing it was made for) and they have wide flutes or "flairs" that run vertically near their outer edges.  It makes it nearly impossible to layout a straight cut line to follow on the band saw.  So it leads to repeated trimming, checking fit, and trimming some more.  Woof! ("rough draft" reference)  But I'm almost done.

Depending on how much patience I have left when I'm finished I may re-shoot the video with the windshield taped to the fairing model.  That will better demonstrate how this fairing design will look on the Valkyrie.  And, Kidd, you may finally see the influence of the '56 Jaguar in the design. 

Bill

[Bill Havins]

Revised video uploaded:  https://youtu.be/JQFI6EynBXQ

I still sound like a jerk. 

Bill

[Jess from VA]

I still sound like a jerk.  Wink

No you don't Bill, you sound quiet, calm, and intelligent (not like some professional huckster).

The fact you do not come across as a professional speaker lends more credibility and trustworthiness (not less). 

Keep it up. 

(this is one of several reasons, I will never be buying this particular motorcycle, though I love the power plant)