Building My Mold... It's Done And On The Bike!

[Verismo]

That looks badass AND beautiful, Bill!  My hat's way WAY off to you!  Can't wait to see the final version!

[bscrive]

Bill,

The fairing keeps looking better all the time.  The windshield is a great choice.

Keep up the good work.

And no, you don't sound like a jerk.

Brian

[Bill Havins]

Thanks, everyone.

I'm really pleased with the trim job on the windshield.  That's how I envisioned it and, sure enough.

I'm kidding about the jerk part.  But I am surprised at how slow I talk now.  You don't suppose I've gotten older, eh?

Oh well.  I think there's some epoxy surface coating waiting for me in the garage.  Now where is that respirator....?

Bill

[Kidd]

respirator , at your age , why bother ?
just kidding , Bill

When do you think you'll have her  mounted onto your Valk ?

[sleepngbear]

Revised video uploaded:  https://youtu.be/JQFI6EynBXQ

I still sound like a jerk. 

Bill

Wow. It totally transforms the face of the bike. It definitely fits the bike well, only makes it look more traditional and less 'spacy'. It fits between the pods perfectly, and even makes them look less prominent.

Got any pics of the whole bike from the side? I'd be interested to see if it changes the profile.

Oh, and you don't sound like a jerk at all -- I thought you did an excellent job. Very informative. Awesome work all around. 

[Firefight100]

I like the looks so far.  But for me, My main reason to add a fairing would be to have tunes.  Are you looking to create space inside to mount a radio and speakers?   If this feature or ability is not possible, I doubt I would install one. JMO.  But Very nice work!

[Bill Havins]

Here's a photo for those who wanted to see color (well, black isn't really a color...).  Windshield held on with tape.  Headlight trim ring held on with tape, too.  Otherwise the headlight nacelle would disappear - wow that surface coating is dark!



If you zoom in you'll see brush strokes; the surface coating is a very thick brush-on kind of stuff.  I sanded it almost smooth and then applied a polyacrylic clear coat in preparation to applying surfacing primer (will this never end?).

Just as a point of reference (pardon the pun - here it comes) the headlight trim ring sticks out in front to the same position that the OEM headlight does.

Back to work.

Bill

[bscrive]

Looks much better in black and it really does suit the bike. 

I can see some places that need filling and smoothing Bill.  You have your work cut out for you. 


Brian

[Bill Havins]

....I can see some many places that need filling and smoothing Bill....

Brian

Fixed it for you. 

Bill

[Tonysax]

Wow that looks awesome! It actually compliments the pods. I would buy one in you decide to mass produce.

[Bill Havins]

This evening I'm pulling the model off of the bike for the last time.  I have to make modifications to the model (creating a flange around the outside) so I can use it to create the fiberglass mold.  Fiberglass materials should be here Tuesday late Wednesday so, between now and then, I have to get the surface finish "perfect" and all of the adjustments done.

We have put off our vacation until Summer because this has taken so long.  Grrrr....  I really want to ride my scooter!

My plan now is to just get the fairing "shell" on the bike (with the windshield, headlight, and turn signals installed) and see how it performs.  I'll then do the "venting" as I had planned, targeting the venting where I think it needs to go to limit head buffeting.

Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and kind words.  I think I'm going to "go silent" for a few days while I tend to all of the demands on my time.

Cheers!

Bill

[Bill Havins]

Fiberglass materials came in today after all.  Neat.  And I leave Monday on a week-long work trip.  Rats!

Still working detail on model/adding flange.  I may be able to start fiberglassing this weekend.

Going kinda' quiet again.

Bill

[Jambriwal]

Bill, great work. Decided to check today and see if anything was updated. Now that we can imagine what the finished product is going to look like. Your talents are an inspiration to all of us who like to modify or enhance our rides. Bravo.
Last weekend I installed Tapered roller bearings in the steering head. Here to report they work great.
Wife says why are you tearing apart a new motorcycle? Why don't you buy one that has evrything you think it should and leave it alone.
Reply: Do they make one?
Jim

[Bill Havins]

Thanks for the kind words, Jim.

I guess I'm one of the luckiest men alive - my wife tends to be totally supportive of my craziness, even when it's not immediately obvious to her why I am doing something.  In the case of the fairing she was "all in" before I started.  She loves touring.  I tend to chuckle a lot as we ride - I often see her arms in my rear view mirrors, held out straight like a kid pretending to fly.  Sweetest lady in the world to put up with me.

Today I'll finish detailing and filleting the mold flange.  After I shoot on a couple of layers of primer I'll try to post a photo.

Cheers!

Bill

[Robert]

Bill did you do the body work and paint on your car?

[Bill Havins]

Lunch time!

Robert, if you're referring to the Jaguar, it's not mine.  That's just a photo off of the internet I have used for "inspiration" ("Hmmmmm, now what might a fairing for this Valkyrie look like...?").

I don't like doing paint and body work.  I don't care for chemical smells and don't see well enough to do fine detail work.  (CAD is a different story - I use a 27" WQHD monitor driven by an Nvidia Quadro card; I can see anything on that!)

But I want a stylish and functional fairing for my Honda.  There aren't any out there.  So what's a guy to do? 

Bill

[Robert]

Nice setup and yes you can see just about anything and quickly with that . I didn't need quite all that hp so I went with the XFX RX 480 Black plate card and a Samsung 40 inch ultra hd 4k tv. The computer has a 12 core 980 extreme so it works well. Dont do any cad work, but like a good surround sound movie upon occasion.

I wondered about the painting since I want to get into doing a bit more of it than I do now. Its not so easy with the 2 and 3 stage processes that they have now and the body work is important and can be time consuming to perfect. This coupled with the dust and smell make it a bit challenging to get the finish I want without a booth.

[Bill Havins]

Well, it's about one day away from being ready to mold.  It was late and I didn't want to get the LVLP spray gun out so I shot it with a rattle can.  Wouldn't you know it, I started running out of primer and got this swell ombré effect.  Heavy sigh.



The "flange" I've put around the model controls where the loose edges of the fiberglass go when I make the mold.  Without the flange the fiberglass would want to curl under the model.  I'd have to break the model apart to get it out of the mold once it cured - not a good idea.

The flange also makes it easier to pop a finished part out of the mold.  Slip several plastic wedges between the flange and the part, apply a bit of pressure, and "pop" - out comes the part (or so the theory goes).

I have to clean up and get things put away.  I'll get back to this in about a week.

Rock on!

Bill

[bscrive]

Coming along nicely Bill.   :cool dude:

I am excited to see the final product.


Brian

[rudymsmith]

Well.  I promised snapshots of my fairing design by the end of the day today.  I got a bit behind.  I am not normally willing to show a design this early in the process but we’re all friends here, right?  So here are the snapshots.

As you look at these you will notice I didn’t get the windshield trimmed and mounted.  The second shot gives you a sense of what the windshield will look like when it is in place (look closely for the screw I have holding it in place on top of the headlight nacelle – nice touch, eh?).

You will also notice I do not have the turn signals mounted – it is obvious where they go.  And the headlight is not mounted.  But you can get a sense of what it looks like in the links in earlier posts in this thread.

And you’ll see lots of putty and filler that remains to be sanded.  And there are surfaces that need to be rounded and faired.  Such is the life of a project at this stage.  But I think you can get the sense of where I’m headed.

As you look at the images you’ll notice I have boxed in the triple clamps – this should stop some air flow.  The fairing does turn lock-to-lock without hitting the radiator cowls.  At the bottom, just below the headlight nacelle, is a “scoop.”  This will vent to the back side of the windshield, hopefully reducing buffeting.  The scoop will also cool the LED headlight.

As you look at the fifth image you’ll see the leading surface of the fairing is in front of the leading edge of the radiator cowl.  I am hoping this, combined with the “boxing” of the triple clamps and the design of the radiator cowls, will present a “single” surface to oncoming air, adding to the “aerodynamics” of the fairing.  Oh, heck!  Who knows how it will work until I have it on the road.

Front view (almost):


Front view with untrimmed windshield held in approximate place (look for the screw – a real touch of class!):


Side view (look at all that filler!):


Handlebars at full lock to left (it clears the radiator cowl!):


Side view showing leading surface of fairing is in front of the leading edge of the radiator cowl:


Please remember I am building the model just to get “the surface” – all of the support structure of the model means nothing as far as the mold goes.  The mold will just capture the forward-most surface.

Enough of this – I’m tired.

Cheers!

Bill

this is fantastic - I would love to be able to purchase one!

[Kidd]

[/quote]

this is fantastic - I would love to be able to purchase one!
[/quote]


Send me a 100  bucks and I'll see what I can do for ya

[Bill Havins]

Back from Dallas.  Ugh.  Four nights in a big name hotel where the elevators smelled of mildew, the soap and shampoo were "raspberry glop," and the traffic was absolutely nuts.  You folks who live in metroplitan areas are to be admired, or "certified," I'm not sure which.

Okay.  My mold release agents will be here Monday.  Then it's hours of "wax on, wax off" (one coat of wax per hour for six hours or so).  Next, spray on a film of PVA.  Then lay up fiberglass.  By Friday I should have my first mold made.  Yippee!

I'll give the mold a good polishing and clean up imperfections that really matter.  Then it's "wax on, wax off" for six hours and then spray a film of PVA.  The mold will be ready for use.

Once the mold is ready I'll lay up my "test fairing."  After I pop it out of the mold I'll trim it and fabricate the "test mount" for the bike.  I'll fit the headlight (gotta' cut the hole in the fairing), fit the windshield, and mount the rascal on the bike.  Then it's time for a test ride!

Getting closer.

Bill

[Bill Havins]

A little update.  Yesterday I applied four coats of mold release wax to the model (or "buck" as it's called in the trade - never have cared for the term myself).  This afternoon I'm spraying on layers of PVA parting film using my LVLP spray gun.  Just finished the mist coat, I'll wait 30 to 45 minutes and then shoot the first of two wet coats.  We'll see if I have enough energy to begin to lay up fiberglass before the day is over - I'd like to, but we'll see.

I think it was Robert who asked about spraying paint.  There is a ton of stuff on the internet about the topic.  Much of what you read and see on Youtube is helpful.  I did not want to re-invest in a 5hp or larger compressor to do this build.  I sold my shop compressor several years ago and have tried to stay "small" since then.  And I didn't want to spend big bucks for a paint spray gun (I still have an old Binks high pressure gun but the overspray is huge - old technology).

I chose to buy a Sprayit SP-33000K LVLP gun kit for the things I am doing now.  I've added a 2.0mm tip to the kit (allows shooting thicker stuff).  I have a small 1-1/2hp Craftsman Professional compressor and plumbed in an additional 5 gal. air tank to it so the compressor doesn't run much when I'm spraying.  The combination does a very nice job for the things I want to do.  If I ever want to do a "fancier" paint job I can always use a professional body shop to do the work.

I like the LVLP features of this particular gun.  It's just a bit "slower" using it (compared to HVLP) but I'm not trying to kick out a paint job every day, so speed is not a big issue.

There are much better LVLP guns out there.  But, with some care and planning, this one works pretty well.

Now for the next coat.

Bill

EDIT:  Done spraying PVA.  Now I'll let it dry for an hour and decide if I have the energy to begin laying up fiberglass.

[Shrubbo]

You know, that is kind of awesome work. Outstanding.

Here's a photo for those who wanted to see color (well, black isn't really a color...).  Windshield held on with tape.  Headlight trim ring held on with tape, too.  Otherwise the headlight nacelle would disappear - wow that surface coating is dark!



If you zoom in you'll see brush strokes; the surface coating is a very thick brush-on kind of stuff.  I sanded it almost smooth and then applied a polyacrylic clear coat in preparation to applying surfacing primer (will this never end?).

Just as a point of reference (pardon the pun - here it comes) the headlight trim ring sticks out in front to the same position that the OEM headlight does.

Back to work.

Bill

[bscrive]

A little update.  Yesterday I applied four coats of mold release wax to the model (or "buck" as it's called in the trade - never have cared for the term myself).  This afternoon I'm spraying on layers of PVA parting film using my LVLP spray gun.  Just finished the mist coat, I'll wait 30 to 45 minutes and then shoot the first of two wet coats.  We'll see if I have enough energy to begin to lay up fiberglass before the day is over - I'd like to, but we'll see.

I think it was Robert who asked about spraying paint.  There is a ton of stuff on the internet about the topic.  Much of what you read and see on Youtube is helpful.  I did not want to re-invest in a 5hp or larger compressor to do this build.  I sold my shop compressor several years ago and have tried to stay "small" since then.  And I didn't want to spend big bucks for a paint spray gun (I still have an old Binks high pressure gun but the overspray is huge - old technology).

I chose to buy a Sprayit SP-33000K LVLP gun kit for the things I am doing now.  I've added a 2.0mm tip to the kit (allows shooting thicker stuff).  I have a small 1-1/2hp Craftsman Professional compressor and plumbed in an additional 5 gal. air tank to it so the compressor doesn't run much when I'm spraying.  The combination does a very nice job for the things I want to do.  If I ever want to do a "fancier" paint job I can always use a professional body shop to do the work.

I like the LVLP features of this particular gun.  It's just a bit "slower" using it (compared to HVLP) but I'm not trying to kick out a paint job every day, so speed is not a big issue.

There are much better LVLP guns out there.  But, with some care and planning, this one works pretty well.

Now for the next coat.

Bill

EDIT:  Done spraying PVA.  Now I'll let it dry for an hour and decide if I have the energy to begin laying up fiberglass.

Your almost there Bill.  Keep hammering away at it piece by piece.   

Brian

[ledany]

Bill, like everybody else I admire your skills  .

In the french GW forum, someone traded his GW for this trike which ressembles a lot  the beautiful Jaguar you have in mind :

[Kidd]

Yeah , that's right , do what bscrive suggest , use the hammer        

Good job

[Bill Havins]

Ledany,

Thanks for the kind words.  That trike probably costs as much as a nice cottage!  Chromed bumper, trailer hitch, it's over-the-top.

Today I'm waiting for slow-set epoxy paste to cure.  And waiting....and waiting....

I had hoped to have the mold done by the end of the day on Monday.  It may be Wednesday.

Going quiet for a bit.

Bill

[ledany]

Bill, I guess you know this ?

http://www.indianmotorcycle.com/en-us/chieftain-star-silver-thunder-black/photos

[Bill Havins]

When you posted the photos of the trike the other day I researched the fairing.  I tried to look for prices and bumped into $1400 to $1800.  And then you choose a headlight shroud, etc., for more money.

But it appears to be baffled on the rear to accept a stereo and speakers.

A lot of money, and not what I want (don't need a stereo - have audio in our helmets).

Interesting, though.  Don't really care for the flat-front look.  Kinda' like a pug dog - been chasing parked cars.

Bill

[Bill Havins]

A little update.  It has been unusually cool lately (lows in the forties).  And the catalyst I ordered with my fiberglass resin is a "hot weather" catalyst (it won't set very quickly at temperatures below 70°).  So progress has been very, very slow.

Here's an image of the mold with two coats of fiberglass on it (the model or "buck" is "inside").



After this second coat sets the mold will get a very thorough rough sanding.  That will remove "nibs," "threads," and areas of fiberglass that did not adhere well.  Then it's four more coats of fiberglass to make the mold very rigid.  Then pop out the model (I hope), sand and polish the inside of the mold, wax-on-wax-off, spray PVA and, finally, build a fairing.

You don't do things like this if you haven't learned to be patient.  And even then it's a fight to keep from rushing things.

Cheers!

Bill

[Robert]

Thanks Bill for this project,  I had considered building a boat out of fiberglass, the steps with pics make for some useful information.

[Bill Havins]

Glad it has helped some.  My older brothers build and work on boats as a hobby, a serious hobby.  They are (almost) nuts about it.  Some of their boats are inland sailboats, others are capable of coastal sailing, and some are coastal-capable kayaks.

Now that I think about it, I take back what I said - they're not almost nuts about it, they are nuts about it.

Bill

[Robert]

I lived on the water For many years and helped a friend in a boat yard, built a ferro cement sail boat with him and refinished and repaired many boats, sail and power. I have worked with fiberglass and glassed many wood repairs for strength. Thought about making a new boat and somehow it always eluded me, so when you see something come together like this it helps to visualize the process. So I know about the love of boats.

[rudymsmith]

looking good your persistence and patience will pay off!

[Hot Rod]

   WOW ! Love to have one ! GREAT JOB ! Unique ,just like the bike!

[Bill Havins]

Thanks to everyone for their kind words.  This has been a job!

There's good news and bad news.  The good news:  The model is free of the mold and, after polishing, it should work very well to produce my first real "go-down-the-road" prototype.  (I'll post a photo of the mold tomorrow - too tired to do it now.)

The bad news:  There was a mold release failure.  I had to tear the model into very small pieces to remove it from the mold.  The model is now a pile of "shavings" in a very large trash bag.  It took me from 4:00 to 11:00 pm to get the model out of the mold (I did take an hour break for supper).

C'est la vie!

More tomorrow.

EDIT:  It's tomorrow.  The photo is below.  Still lots of work to do - trim, install Schrader valve (so I can use air pressure to help remove the fairing from the mold), polish, wax the goody out of it, then layup the fairing.

Cheers!

Bill

[Bill Havins]

Here's a little update for those who are interested.



I have trimmed the flange and have begun the process of polishing the inside of the mold.  (Will this never end?!)  The goal is to get the inside of the mold as "perfect" as I can.  I have to sand out all of the imperfections.  For example, if you look at the "wings" you'll see a number of horizontal lines.  Those are "raised" brushstrokes captured from the surface of the model - they have to be flattened.  The entire inner surface of the model as to have an even matte finish (done with 60 grit sandpaper and a whole lot of elbow grease).  The inner surface of the mold is too convoluted to allow the use of power tools so most of this I am doing by hand.  Ibuprofen is a good thing (in small doses and used infrequently).

Once the entire inner surface of the mold is a matte finish I will begin to go from sanding to polishing, hoping to achieve a mirror finish (this is nuts!).

Since I am planning to use compressed air to "push" the fairing out of the mold I am going to have to reinforce the flange (around the outside of the mold).  Here's why.  After the fairing is laid up in the mold I'll insert plastic wedges between the flange of the mold and the flange that is "cast" in the fairing.  This will begin to separate the fairing from the mold.  But a friend of mine opined that it is going to be extremely difficult to get the fairing to release from the mold, even if the mold is adequately prepared with wax and PVA (mold release).  So, before I lay up the fairing I'll attach a Schrader valve in the middle of the headlight nacelle on the mold.  After I lay up the fairing and give it time to cure I'll insert plastic wedges between the flanges (as above), and then I'll hit the Schrader valve with about 14 to 20 PSI of compressed air.  If that doesn't "push" the fairing out I'll increase the pressure until the fairing pops out.  In this sequence the flange on the mold will be stressed a lot.  So I've decided to add more layers of fiberglass to the flange to ensure it "survives" the potential stress it will experience.

The flange gets trimmed off of the fairing.  A lot of the "side" surface material gets trimmed off too.  Most of what goes on the bike is the "front" of the design.

My progress on this has not been fast.  Although I'm "retired," my "part-time" job has been a killer for the last three weeks.  This week I have been coming home from work, eating supper, and going right to bed.  It has been exhausting!  C'st la guerre!

Tomorrow I'm heading to the second daughter's house to rebuild the carburetor on her '60 T-Bird convertible ("Dad, my engine is flooding.")  Blondes and their convertibles....  And dads and their daughters.  But she'll be under the hood with me - she doesn't mind getting oil on her hands.  Next time she'll be able to do it herself, if there is a next time.

So, progress has been slow.  But I have to hurry up - we're supposed to do a week-long tour in June.

Cheers!

Bill

[bscrive]

Hey Bill,

Looking good. 

To help you along in your sanding, you could probably use an oscillating tool with a sanding attachment.  I have used one for bodywork a number of times in those hard to use ' with ordinary tool' places and it worked great.  Check one out.  It will help with the need for ibuprofen.

Brian

[Bill Havins]

Thanks for reminding me, Brian.  That made me remember two other tools I have on the shelf - don't know if they'll fit where I need them to go, but it's worth a look.

At this point I just don't want to blow up something by using "power" where "finesse" is required.  Kinda' like turning right at a stop sign where a sprinkler system is misting onto the street.

Bill