Carb Fuel T-fitting leak

[Randy52]

Started up after 3 month storage. 97 standard 34K. Fired rite up, runs great. Fuel leaking BAD from fuel rail tee fitting. Hoped it would seal up but after 4 days no help. Pulled carbs. Bike ran good , starts good, no dead spots. Had petcock out, screen was clean, no rust in tank, took bowl covers off, no varnish, all are perfectly clean. Now my question. Do I go with "if it's not broke don't fix it" mentality and just fix fuel rails, or go through it all? I'll be honest ,vacuum pistons scare me. What parts to order? OEM or Redeye. Thanks for any help.

[Hook#3287]

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1998/GL1500C+A/CARBURETOR+COMPONENTS/parts.html

The least I would do is replace the Float Valves, (#20).


http://www.motoparthub.com/18_8955_K_L_Supply_Float_Needle_6pk?src=Google&gclid=CjwKEAjwqZ7GBRC1srKSv9TV_iwSJADKTjaDnr4Wno3cY7eC9nlVvyb5e1qTJNwpZWrwLpWtTLlJWxoC0ZXw_wcB

[gordonv]

To me, carbs are like Voodoo to me, so I stay away from them. I understand how they work, but know they can be a hassle to work on. But with youtube now out, and how-tos posted, it is a LOT easier.

If the seals on the rail haven't swelled after a few day, then I would think they need replacing.

I wouldn't mess with anything else, since it is running nice.

But I would look into the cost of those floats, and if you can stomach the price, then I would replace for a piece of mind. That is, if the carbs have/will be pulled from the bike.

[The emperor has no clothes]

If you have to remove the carbs to replace the o-rings, it would foolish not to replace the float needles at the same time. The cost is minimal, the extra time is minimal. It has been demonstrated by some very knowledgeable Valkyrie mechanics that the springs soften over time. The upside is just too much to not replace them. 

[Hook#3287]

If you have to remove the carbs to replace the o-rings, it would foolish not to replace the float needles at the same time. The cost is minimal, the extra time is minimal. It has been demonstrated by some very knowledgeable Valkyrie mechanics that the springs soften over time. The upside is just too much to not replace them. 

As Cracker Jack would say "It's cheap insurance"  (I think it was Cracker Jack?)

[The emperor has no clothes]

If you have to remove the carbs to replace the o-rings, it would foolish not to replace the float needles at the same time. The cost is minimal, the extra time is minimal. It has been demonstrated by some very knowledgeable Valkyrie mechanics that the springs soften over time. The upside is just too much to not replace them. 

As Cracker Jack would say "It's cheap insurance"  (I think it was Cracker Jack?)

especially since he's going to be taking them out anyway.

[Randy52]

Meathead, where are these float springs that you speak of. I got carbs off and bowl covers off. I have the plastic float that holds the fuel inlet needle with the rubber tip, but I don't see any springs. Seems like I saw a video that had the springs. Wondering if they might be aftermarket?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Meathead, where are these float springs that you speak of. I got carbs off and bowl covers off. I have the plastic float that holds the fuel inlet needle with the rubber tip, but I don't see any springs. Seems like I saw a video that had the springs. Wondering if they might be aftermarket?

The springs are actually inside the float needles. You have to replace the needles entirely, they can't be rebuilt. I think Hook posted a link where to purchase them up above. 

[Ricky-D]

Randy52, stay with your first instincts: "Do I go with "if it's not broke don't fix it" mentality and just fix fuel rails".

Throwing money after new parts when the old parts need no replacing is foolhardy.

The floats being plastic are lifetime items and only if they become unworkable because of leakage or deformity should the be replaced.

The float needles are likewise lifetime items and there are posts in this forum to substantiate this fact

There are also posts in this forum that falsely claim the needles need replacing because of weak springs within the needle assembly. Claims that are based on false assumptions derived from inapplicable tests upon the carburetor and it's components. These claims have all been debunked, but there are many that still cling to these false assumptions and make recommendations based on the same false assumptions.

If looking at the float needles and the tiny plunger that is spring loaded, you see the plunger is still spring loaded and works as it should, as you would assume. Then, there is no problem with that float needle. Save your money!

To avoid any future problems with the carburetion on you Valkyrie I would suggest to use non-ethanol gasoline exclusively in your bike if possible.

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=SC

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[The emperor has no clothes]

Randy52, stay with your first instincts: "Do I go with "if it's not broke don't fix it" mentality and just fix fuel rails".

Throwing money after new parts when the old parts need no replacing is foolhardy.

The floats being plastic are lifetime items and only if they become unworkable because of leakage or deformity should the be replaced.

The float needles are likewise lifetime items and there are posts in this forum to substantiate this fact

There are also posts in this forum that falsely claim the needles need replacing because of weak springs within the needle assembly. Claims that are based on false assumptions derived from inapplicable tests upon the carburetor and it's components. These claims have all been debunked, but there are many that still cling to these false assumptions and make recommendations based on the same false assumptions.

If looking at the float needles and the tiny plunger that is spring loaded, you see the plunger is still spring loaded and works as it should, as you would assume. Then, there is no problem with that float needle. Save your money!

To avoid any future problems with the carburetion on you Valkyrie I would suggest to use non-ethanol gasoline exclusively in your bike if possible.

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=SC

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Where was it debunked ?

[Hook#3287]

Where was it debunked ?

I'd be interested in seeing that also.

I'm going to respectfully disagree with Ricky-D, as I do enjoy his postings  

I had two failed float valves, at the same time, way back before I understood the issue.  It caused a non-damaging hydro-lock.  I believe it was because I drained the carbs before trailering for 1500 miles and the floats bounced all the way down the highway.  When I got to FL, first day out, while at lunch, the bike locked.

Now, was the problem self caused?  You bet.  But, as a matter of "Cheap Insurance" under $30, everytime I open a set of carbs, they're getting new float valves.

What's a damaging hydro lock cost?

[Hook#3287]

Also, I realize that the valves may not have been the issue, the floats could have been stuck and I was lucky it didn't happen again before I got home and was able to pull the carbs.

But, when I did, the old float valves had considerably less resistance than the new ones.  Was the resistance in the old valves enough to do the job?  Beats me, for less than $30, I'm just replacing them.

The common knowledge here in relation to Hydro Lock is that three things have to happen, leaking petcock, failed float valve (or float) and open intake valve.

By replacing the float valves on a relatively regular basis, hopefully one can be removed from the equation.

Some feel that replacing the OEM petcock or installing a Dan Marc will stop the issue completely. I'm not so sure.

It's been stated, there is enough gas in the lines after the Dan Marc, to cause a hydro lock, but I haven't seen real proof of that either.

[Randy52]

Thanks meathead, now I see the spring action in the fuel inlet needles. Thanks to all who posted.