Choke Lever Replacement

[pais]

     Wondering if anyone has replaced #4 in the pic before?

     http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1997/GL1500C%20AC/SWITCH%20%2B%20CABLE/parts.html


    Is there anything I should be aware of when I take the switch housing apart?
    Any suggestions on getting the hand grip off?
    I'm thinking this should be straight forward and simple. As my wife would say, "oh, another 15 minute job".

[Bone]

"oh, another 15 minute job".

  Thanks for the morning laff

I have never read about one being changed after you get the grip off the rest should be a 15 minute job.

[Harryc]

The below is assuming you actually want to replace the choke lever. Part #3 in the diagram is the choke cable.

So in order to get the grip off, twist/pry the chrome end cap off the bar, stick a small Phillips head screwdriver between the rubber grip and the bar and shoot WD-40 into the opening created. Move the screwdriver around the circumference of the bar giving another several doses of WD-40 as you go. Eventually you'll be able to twist the grip right off. Get grip glue to reinstall it, making sure to thoroughly clean the bar and the inside of the grip first with alcohol. Remove all old glue. Once the grip is off it would be easier to remove the handle bar from the bike and move it to the right in order to slide the controls off (2 screws in the housing). Un-do all of the cable ties on the left side of the bar. Make sure to pad/cover your tank first to avoid damage to it from the bars. The choke lever is the last item to come off and the first to go on. Also there are holes in the bar where dimples in the housing go into so note that when reassembling. Other than that also note how the choke cable goes into the lever and put it back the way it was. Can't think of any other advice other than to adjust the choke cable per the manual, or at least visually check that it fully actuates the enrichment valves on the (6) carbs when you apply choke. 

[Bone]

Harryc thanks for the great instructions. I haven't actually disassembled my bars/controls on my Valkyrie changed the risers but left everything attached.

[Gryphon Rider]

I replaced my choke cable a few years ago.  I am pretty certain there was no need to remove the grip.  The choke lever/switch assembly comes off by removing two screws (21 & 23, below) that hold the two halves of the housing together.

My lever had been getting stiff, with a grinding feel when I moved it, then the cable broke.  When I put it back together I lubed where I saw the grinding had happened.  It worked very smoothly after that, but there wasn't enough friction to hold the choke in the engaged position, so I've had to hold the lever down for about 20 seconds as the engine warmed.  It's finally developing enough internal friction that I don't have to do that.

[Beardo]

I replaced my switch assembly on that side last summer after my signal switch lever broke. The new one came with the new choke lever. You can replace the assembly without removing the grip but you need to remove the grip to replace the choke lever.

It's not hard. Hardest part is getting the grip off and it's not hard. Should take about an hour with a half hour of beer breaks.

[Gryphon Rider]

I replaced my switch assembly on that side last summer after my signal switch lever broke. The new one came with the new choke lever. You can replace the assembly without removing the grip but you need to remove the grip to replace the choke lever.

It's not hard. Hardest part is getting the grip off and it's not hard. Should take about an hour with a half hour of beer breaks.

Yeah, I agree one would need to remove the grip to get #4 off, but I didn't need to as I was only replacing the cable.

[John Schmidt]

I replaced my choke cable quite a few years ago, haven't had a problem since.  The little lever with the black knob is my choke control. Gets rid of that stiff(and difficult to operate) OEM cable, does away with the possibility of it breaking, maintains whatever position you place it in. If interested....I have simple drawings and instructions. 



PS: It works easier than the OEM system, retains the crossover cable which is not a problem in itself. I've never heard of one of those breaking.

[gordonv]

Be careful of the clutch fluid in the reservoir, you don't wont that dripping on your paint.

What has happened to your lever, that you wish to replace it?

[Valker]

I would like those drawings and instructions,please.
Valker1@hotmail.com

[John Schmidt]

I got some emails and a PM, plus Valker's request re. the design. So, rather than hijack this thread, I'll start a different one. Look for MY CHOKE LEVER CONVERSION subject line. 

[pais]

   Now that I am back from the land of the double jointed. (My head is now out of my a*^)  . I am replacing number 4 (choke lever) in the parts fiche.
   About a year ago right now I tried to use choke lever. Pushed down and pow, it gave way. Thought damn, the cable broke. After getting inside come to find out plastic tab that holds the barrel on cable broke. So I have to replace #4.

[pais]

I replaced my choke cable quite a few years ago, haven't had a problem since.  The little lever with the black knob is my choke control. Gets rid of that stiff(and difficult to operate) OEM cable, does away with the possibility of it breaking, maintains whatever position you place it in. If interested....I have simple drawings and instructions. 



PS: It works easier than the OEM system, retains the crossover cable which is not a problem in itself. I've never heard of one of those breaking.

   My memory is absolutely terrible! I remember seeing this post and thinking if I ever have trouble with my choke cable I will do this. We all know how hard the lever is to push that last quarter inch, give or take. Low and behold, this never enters my mind and now I have a $20.00 part on the way. Damn it!
    Well, thanks for the reminder John!