oil pressure

[Daviddurtschi]

I'm still trying to sort out the bugs on my new to me 98 valkyrie standard.  I've got it running, thanks to you guys, with new 10-40 oil, rebuilt carbs, new plugs, and clutch lever bushing.  It runs very smooth but after a few minutes, the oil light starts to flicker at low rpm and then pretty much stays on.  I've tried to take off the wire to the sending unit and ground it, and the light comes on.  Someone said that that indicates the sending unit is bad but I don't understand how bypassing the unit tells me anything except to see if the light works.  I hate to spend $30 for a new unit if I do in fact have really low pressure  (I'm hoping not!)  The bike has about 44K and hasn't run in several years till a few days ago.

[oldsmokey]

Certainly no authority on this engine, but I would look into putting a mechanical test gauge in the port. And verify with factory specs. And verify sending unit is not faulty.

[Harryc]

Well, I can tell you that low oil pressure is a very uncommon issue on these Valks. What were the symptoms with your clutch again? The only thing that comes to mind is you sheared off the rivets on your clutch plate and they are blocking the oil screen. Was it blowing any blue smoke out of the exhaust?

[The emperor has no clothes]

If you rev the engine up does the light go out ? I remember some guys having problems with the early model temp lights, but I don't remember any issues with the oil pressure light.

[Daviddurtschi]

thanks for the quick responses.  The light does go out if I rev it up.  At first, when cold, upon startup the light goes out and stays out.  After it warms up for 10-15 minutes, the light comes on at idle and a little after that, the light only goes out when I rev it up to about 3000 rpm.  I've had no issue with the clutch other than the bushing in the lever was frozen, and had to remove it and lube.  Works very smooth now.  anyone had any experience with how to check the actual oil pressure.  I'm kind of afraid to run it now till I'm sure it's oiling okay.

[The emperor has no clothes]

thanks for the quick responses.  The light does go out if I rev it up.  At first, when cold, upon startup the light goes out and stays out.  After it warms up for 10-15 minutes, the light comes on at idle and a little after that, the light only goes out when I rev it up to about 3000 rpm.  I've had no issue with the clutch other than the bushing in the lever was frozen, and had to remove it and lube.  Works very smooth now.  anyone had any experience with how to check the actual oil pressure.  I'm kind of afraid to run it now till I'm sure it's oiling okay.

I can understand your concern. Those symptoms do make it seem as there is indeed a low oil pressure situation. We're it me, I would try a new oil filter and see if you have the same situation. There were some posts a few years back of guys putting on oil pressure gauges. I will see if I can find the links. Maybe you'll get lucky and it will have been a defective filter.

[Leathel]

If it were the temp light I would say your fan is not working..... But oil light is a worry, I hope it is a faulty oil filter or faulty sender

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-35500-MJ4-024.html

[Daviddurtschi]

the fan comes on when I let it idle for several minutes, so I think I'm okay there.  I did just change the filter so I'll change that first and then, if that doesn't help, I'll get a switch, since they are only $25!
I'll let you know my results.

[longrider]

You really need to remove the sending unit and check with a manual gauge. I installed auto meter temp and oil pressure gauges.  Oil pressure is about 15 # at idle, engine warm. High pressure relief should hold at 70#

[Savago]

What is the oil filter brand?

Is the bike idling at 900RPM?

[Hooter]

What oil you got in the beast?  You say 10-40, what brand?

[Daviddurtschi]

because I am totally unsure the history of this bike, and as it sat for years, I put in Castrol GTX 20-50 oil with a fram 6017A filter, with plans to go with Mobil 1 and better filter after I've flushed out the engine.  Maybe that was a mistake.  I do want to put a gauge on it before just changing the oil and filter.  Any idea the thread size I'll need for a gauge?
As a side note and warning for those less diligent than me, when I got the bike the belt cover was off, so I put it on without checking all the bolts.  The Cam Pulley bolt was loose and came out after maybe 30 minutes of run time!  The bolt got caught up in the pulley and side cover and squealed like a pig!  Shut it down and got lucky with no damage but a partially destroyed belt.  Moral:  take your time.

[Firefighter]

I run 20w 50 in mine all the time, probably the sender. Think mine idles at about 20 psi hot but I will check for sure if you need.

[Daviddurtschi]

normally, I use 15-50 mobil 1 and have in 4 other bikes with no known problems.  I am going to try a different filter and then if no luck, replace the $25 sensor.  I do have the idle set for about 1000 rpm but when it was hot, the light even came on till about 3000 rpm

[oldsmokey]

Some auto parts stores will loan out a pressure test kit. Should have assortment of fittings to make connection. Whether sender is bad or not, this will give a true measurement and baseline for a unit that you have limited history on to begin with.

[The emperor has no clothes]

normally, I use 15-50 mobil 1 and have in 4 other bikes with no known problems.  I am going to try a different filter and then if no luck, replace the $25 sensor.  I do have the idle set for about 1000 rpm but when it was hot, the light even came on till about 3000 rpm

I've been using Mobil 15-50 for years. I don't think that will give you any issues. Maybe in colder climates a lower weight would be better, but it rarely gets cold here. I hope your problem can be remedied easily. 

[Icelander]

Coming from previous experience with old Pontiac engines, I avoid Fram oil filters on anything after seeing what a BOP 400 CID looks like after it sucked the Fram filter element through the engine. I know this is grounds for a holy flame war, even if it's just a break-in/flush-out filter I go with a quality filter. *MY* preference is Wix/Napa Gold or Mobil 1.

Hope it's a cheap fix and you get that beauty back on the road where she belongs.

Icelander

[Savago]

+1 on Mobil 1.

I've used it in all my bikes and car, even shifting in the bikes gets better with it.

[Fazer]

Coming from previous experience with old Pontiac engines, I avoid Fram oil filters on anything after seeing what a BOP 400 CID looks like after it sucked the Fram filter element through the engine. I know this is grounds for a holy flame war, even if it's just a break-in/flush-out filter I go with a quality filter. *MY* preference is Wix/Napa Gold or Mobil 1.

Anything wrong with OEM filters? 

[Gabriel]

Coming from previous experience with old Pontiac engines, I avoid Fram oil filters on anything after seeing what a BOP 400 CID looks like after it sucked the Fram filter element through the engine. I know this is grounds for a holy flame war, even if it's just a break-in/flush-out filter I go with a quality filter. *MY* preference is Wix/Napa Gold or Mobil 1.

Hope it's a cheap fix and you get that beauty back on the road where she belongs.

Icelander

It was in 1967 that my Brothers new 1967 427 Impala sucked one through the engine, Fram paid the bill.
I'm sure they are a lot better now but once that happens, you never forget it.

[Hooter]

A bunch of guys use Fram on their bikes but I won't.  I use one on all my vehicles but  I stick with OEM on my Valk. I helped a friend put a bunch of money into a custom bike motor. Ran like a scalded dog until the Fram filter disintegrated,  plugged up the motor / oil pump and ruined the motor. Went about 150 miles before doing so.

Oil an filter are life blood. A couple bucks extra for a filter give me a piece of mind. If it was me I'd try an OEM filter and see if it cures the problem. What's to lose...I don't care what anyone else runs, just a suggestion. 

[Daviddurtschi]

Thanks, guys.  I'll pick up an OEM filter monday.  However, its supposed to snow (again) so we'll see.
I'm replacing the timing belts while I'm at it and then have to tackle the air box install.

[Gabriel]

Thanks, guys.  I'll pick up an OEM filter monday.  However, its supposed to snow (again) so we'll see.
I'm replacing the timing belts while I'm at it and then have to tackle the air box install.

Snow? It was 80 here today...

[Willow]

For some of my friends:

If you think Honda makes oil filters I have this bridge ... 

[Daviddurtschi]

Just a quick update...it finally warmed up outside enough to do a little work on my 98 Valk.
got the new belts on and ran it without the cover, still have the oil light on after it warms up..up till about 3000 rpms.  Let it cool down and changed out the fram filter from Wally World for an OEM from the dealer...oil light on with the key but not running the engine.  Started it up and let it warm up and even took it for a few mile ride...NO OIL LIGHT!  I owe someone a beer for suggesting such a simple thing to fix a problem!  No more fram filters for me.  Thanks all
David

[Gabriel]

Good news!
Sounds like the by-pass in the filter was defective

[97BLKVALK]

Great news David

When in the auto parts business in 80's early 90's we use to cut open oil filters and "at that time" there were a lot of filters that didn't have bypass valves or screens at all, it may be different today. 

Michael

[indybobm]

Fram filters are evil!

[98valk]

Fram filters are evil!

only if they are used. little angels on the store shelf.