Another Carb Rebuild Problem; could use a little help

[JimT]

Bike:  2000 Interstate, California emissions – stock 16k miles

Recent work:  Bike sat for several years, so I pulled carb bank and rejetted idle and high speed jets (idle with 35’s) and new float valves.  I am not a natural mechanic, but was comfortable doing what I did.  Got tied up at work, so a friend of a friend who says he knows bikes (has four in his garage, no Valks) helped put it back together.  He rebuilt fuel rails due to leaks and rebuilt the petcock, digi sync at idle and buttoned everything up. 

Problem:  With full enricher it fires up on first click (70 degrees in garage) and idles at 900, although a little rough.  Any movement of the throttle and it dies immediately.  Back off on the enricher and it loses idle until it dies (even after 4-5 minutes of idling).  After idling to hot engine temp (fan kicked on) we were able to apply some throttle and take it on the road.  Ran rough up to about 4200 rpm at which time it topped out with severe missing.  Able to ride back to his house, but did not run any better.
 
Attempt to troubleshoot:  I trailered bike home after friend of friend could not troubleshoot problem (honestly tried over several days).  I checked all vacuum lines, fuel lines and whatever I could see with only pulling tank.  He did have crossed vacuum lines between carbs 4 and 6, which I corrected (not sure how critical that would be).  Carbs 1, 2 & 5 are properly capped.  Tank vent is not kinked.  Nothing I did improved performance.  Still fires up on first click and not able to do anything but idle.

I guess the lack of top end is due to fuel restriction.  Why I cannot apply throttle to increase rpm off idle is beyond me.  I have searched the board and found all the numerous rebuild problems, but not anything specific to easy start and nothing but idle.  Any ideas?

[phideux]

Re-visit the last things you, or him, did. Was it running good "several years" back when you parked it? I predict a trip back into the carbs for you.
Never let a "friend of a friend" work on your bike if you have the know how to do it yourself. That way you know it's either done right, or you messed it up. 

[98valk]

Idle mixture screws set at 2 to 2.5 turns open?

rejetted idle and high speed jets

what does that mean? different sizes?

petcock rebuilt? how? what parts?
vacuum hose connected to vacuum port?

Bowl vent hoses connected correctly?

charcoal canister vacuum lines connected correctly?

[JimT]

Phideux -- Good advice, lesson learned. 

98valk -- idle mixture set at 2.5
              rejetted -- I meant replaced w/ OEM, not simply cleaned; stock sizes
              Petcock rebuild -- K & L Supply Fuel Petcock Repair Kit
              Intake o-rings, fuel line repair kit all from Redeye
              as far as all connections, vacuum lines appear good, bowl vents are connected, but I'll have to pull the air box to see if routed correctly

I will obviously have to pull all and redo.  What still has me baffled is that a 1/4" movement of the throttle shuts it down immediately.  There is nothing between idle and off when I barely think about touching the throttle.

[Chrisj CMA]

Did you make sure the internal vent port in each carb were clear. If even one or two are clogged it will certainly cause rough and unstable running as you describe

[Blackduck]

When you had them apart what cleaning did you do?
Sounds like the passages in the carbs are restricted/blocked.
Only odd bit about this is it would no go above 4200, by then should be on needles and main jets.
Is the airbox lid standard?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Sounds to me like classic case of clogged jets or passages. There are some tiny holes in the slow jets, get them all clear. Spray carb cleaner thru the passages.

[nogrey]

Hey, before you do anything else, open the fuel cap and see how it runs with it open. These symptoms are similar to what happens when the fuel tank vent gets crimped on re-install.

[gordonv]

To over simplify, with all the reading I've done over the years, the fuel problems are;

Fuel delivery to the carbs
      either petcock or venting of gas tank
Fuel delivery to the cylinders
      plugged jets

Easiest, cheapest method, and funest. Buy some Berrymans B12 from wally world, about $4. 1/2 can to a fresh tank of fuel. Run it in the rpm ranges that give you trouble. After 2 full cans, and you still have the problem, then you need to identify where exactly the problem is being caused from.

[Bone]

Easiest, cheapest method, and funest. Buy some Berrymans B12 from wally world, about $4. 1/2 can to a fresh tank of fuel. Run it in the rpm ranges that give you trouble. After 2 full cans, and you still have the problem, then you need to identify where exactly the problem is being caused from.

That is almost exactly what I did to my 98 Tourer last season. Just wasn't running right so I tried the B12. Thought it wasn't going to help and one morning after start-up I could feel the difference. Still have the 2 empty cans in the garage.

[Blackduck]

Just a heads up. if using carb cleaner keep it away from the diaphragms.
It will attack the "rubber" and they are not cheap.
Cheers Steve

[JimT]

Good advice from all.  Thanks for the input.  I see two choices under the circumstances.  Pull it apart and do over.  This time I would replace all the 17 year old lines and tubes.  Other option is to trailer to someone who knows what they are doing and get it done right without trial and error. 

I am in Phoenix area.  I recall reading on the forum about a top mechanic in this area that really knows his stuff.  I do not recall the name; anyone help me out here?

[Pete]

If it will not take throttle and will not idle without the choke, the slow speed jets or passages are not flowing air/gas.

Or there is such a massive vacuum leak that it needs the (choke) to compensate for the leak.
The choke on many bikes does not choke it enriches,

Pull the carbs and clean everything.

I suspect the carbs are to clogged for B12 added to the fuel to unclog without disassembly, but you can try it first.  

[98valk]

Good advice from all.  Thanks for the input.  I see two choices under the circumstances.  Pull it apart and do over.  This time I would replace all the 17 year old lines and tubes.  Other option is to trailer to someone who knows what they are doing and get it done right without trial and error. 

I am in Phoenix area.  I recall reading on the forum about a top mechanic in this area that really knows his stuff.  I do not recall the name; anyone help me out here?

BigBF   one of the experts on valkyries
scroll down to see his post and contact info.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,69046.0.html

[gordonv]

Also, in your profile, include your Loc.

A nice way to connect with others, accept offers of help, and, best of all on this post, if we knew you where THAT close, and looking for profession (paid $) help, that info would have come a little sooner.

There is also Attic Rat.

[JimT]

Appreciate all the responses. 

Looks to me like I could have numerous problems, most likely starting with vacuum leaks, and who knows what else.

I have arranged for BigBF to do it right.  Will trailer it over when he has time to work on it.

Thanks again,

Jim

[JimT]

To Follow Up on what is becoming an old post: BigBF worked me into his busy schedule and serviced both the Interstate and my '99 Standard.  Carb Rebuild, front forks, and miscellaneous issues.  I was fortunate he was able to fit me in before his summer trip.

Both run like new.  He is the best.  I appreciate all the input provided.

JimT

[BigBF]

JimT
You're welcome! 
Thank you for letting me work both of your Valk.
Go Enjoy riding your bike again...