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Author Topic: Carb rebuild question  (Read 3065 times)
Ceebass68
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*****
Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« on: April 03, 2017, 08:26:45 PM »

Ok, new Valk owner here... Just picked up a 99 Interstate. Bike hasnt been run in about 4 years. Tank off and clean, Running through carbs now. Everything is cleaning up nicely. I have ordered:

Pilot screw rebuild kit from Redeye
Dan-Marc electric fuel shut off
Desmog kit from Redeye (figured I'd do it while I was already in there...)

Big Question. How hard is the fuel rail o-ring rebuild? I honestly hate the idea of separating the carbs. I also hate to think I get carbs rebuilt and back on THEN find out the fuel tail is leaking... (I havent heard her run yet)

Thanks for the advice! Note that I did a search but couldnt find anything specifically on fuel rail...



« Last Edit: April 03, 2017, 08:57:03 PM by Ceebass68 » Logged

1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6443


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2017, 04:51:37 AM »

Ok, new Valk owner here... Just picked up a 99 Interstate. Bike hasnt been run in about 4 years. Tank off and clean, Running through carbs now. Everything is cleaning up nicely. I have ordered:

Pilot screw rebuild kit from Redeye
Dan-Marc electric fuel shut off
Desmog kit from Redeye (figured I'd do it while I was already in there...)

Big Question. How hard is the fuel rail o-ring rebuild? I honestly hate the idea of separating the carbs. I also hate to think I get carbs rebuilt and back on THEN find out the fuel tail is leaking... (I havent heard her run yet)

Thanks for the advice! Note that I did a search but couldnt find anything specifically on fuel rail...




Congradulations!  That bike looks familiar.  Craigslist?

Sounds like you're doing right.

I've never had too do a fuel rail fix, but many have and I'm sure you'll get some advice soon.

Don't seem that difficult.

She's a beauty  cooldude
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Hooter
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Posts: 4092

S.W. Michigan


« Reply #2 on: April 04, 2017, 05:36:26 AM »

Your there already why not have the piece of mind that everything has been done. It's possible the rails may leak anyway if it's set for a period of time. After taking the time  to go this far and not doing the rails only to find them leaking won't make you very happy.

Or, you can just take the chance the rails won't leak. If there has been no fuel in the rails, I would say they will leak??
« Last Edit: April 04, 2017, 05:39:41 AM by Hooter » Logged

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signart
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Posts: 2095


Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #3 on: April 04, 2017, 06:09:40 AM »

What he said^^^^^^^^
You can do it, and you've got help on here in about two minutes or less sometimes.
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97BLKVALK
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Posts: 637


VRCC#26021

Detroit Lakes, MN


« Reply #4 on: April 04, 2017, 06:14:17 AM »

For some while the bike is hibernating during the winter, having older orings and have been void of fuel they do tend to weep during first seasonal start up, once fuel hits then things start to swell and seal.  Since a complete rebuilding of  my carbs and fuel rails and all vacuum lines,  weeping fuel rails have not been an issue for the Valkyrie or the owner.

Michael
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1997 GL1500C - Purple
1997 GL1500C - Bumble Bee
1998 GL1500C - Blue and Cream
jmann
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Posts: 253


Mesa,Az.


« Reply #5 on: April 04, 2017, 06:52:19 AM »

If you have the carbs out replace the orings. Hardest part was separating them and that really wasn't that big a deal. When they started separating I used PB blaster to assist in the breakdown of the gunk that was holding them to the dowels. I then used a very fine flat blade jewelers screw driver to very gently start to pry them apart and add more PB blaster as they were working themselves apart. Gently is the key. Carb bodies are soft and easily damaged. After they came apart it was a snap to replace the orings. I even reused the original dowels after a good cleaning. Haven't had a fuel leak from the rails since.
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Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #6 on: April 04, 2017, 01:00:45 PM »

Thanks for the advice guys! Went ahead and ordered the rail rebuild kit. 18 years and 58,000 miles...no confirmation they've ever been done. Guess that just makes sense. Was hoping to get this done by weekend but, doubt all parts will be here in time. Oh well, got the VTX to ride in meantime...!

Another question if I might... the pilot screws were set anywhere from 3 1/4 turns out to over 4 1/2. Based on what I've read that seems a bit much. Planning to set them all at 2 1/4 out to start. Seem right?

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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
98valk
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Posts: 13472


South Jersey


« Reply #7 on: April 04, 2017, 03:01:52 PM »

if it's not leaking no reason to take apart. just make sure the end nuts of the two rods that keep the carbs together are tight. they can get loose which will allow seepage. my bike 48k miles one front carb was seeping, checked the nuts a little loose tightened it up, at 51k now, bone dry. after I tightened I put a dab of clear silicone on the nut and exposed threads.
 OEM Orings are buna-n which last a long time unless more than 10% ethanol gas is used and/or continued exposure to sunlight and ambient conditions, which doesn't happen since they are inside the carb body. and they don't see temp extremes which can cause them to degrade.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Ceebass68
Member
*****
Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2017, 05:52:58 PM »

if it's not leaking no reason to take apart. just make sure the end nuts of the two rods that keep the carbs together are tight. they can get loose which will allow seepage. my bike 48k miles one front carb was seeping, checked the nuts a little loose tightened it up, at 51k now, bone dry. after I tightened I put a dab of clear silicone on the nut and exposed threads.
 OEM Orings are buna-n which last a long time unless more than 10% ethanol gas is used and/or continued exposure to sunlight and ambient conditions, which doesn't happen since they are inside the carb body. and they don't see temp extremes which can cause them to degrade.

Thanks CA. Honestly not sure whether they were weeping or not. When I got this bike home, I drained all old fuel out of carbs and tank. Checked fluid levels and charged up battery to crank. Realized that po had installed throttle cables backwards so, fixed that and cranked. Gas started pouring out of carb overflow line. Removed #6 jet needle from top and saw thick varnish. Immediately moved towards removing carbs. Fuel rail was wet but, from o-rings(?) I dont know. Figured if it was easy, it'd be worth the safeguard.
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #9 on: April 04, 2017, 06:02:13 PM »

if it's not leaking no reason to take apart. just make sure the end nuts of the two rods that keep the carbs together are tight. they can get loose which will allow seepage. my bike 48k miles one front carb was seeping, checked the nuts a little loose tightened it up, at 51k now, bone dry. after I tightened I put a dab of clear silicone on the nut and exposed threads.
 OEM Orings are buna-n which last a long time unless more than 10% ethanol gas is used and/or continued exposure to sunlight and ambient conditions, which doesn't happen since they are inside the carb body. and they don't see temp extremes which can cause them to degrade.

Thanks CA. Honestly not sure whether they were weeping or not. When I got this bike home, I drained all old fuel out of carbs and tank. Checked fluid levels and charged up battery to crank. Realized that po had installed throttle cables backwards so, fixed that and cranked. Gas started pouring out of carb overflow line. Removed #6 jet needle from top and saw thick varnish. Immediately moved towards removing carbs. Fuel rail was wet but, from o-rings(?) I dont know. Figured if it was easy, it'd be worth the safeguard.
I think it would be wise to do it while you have them out.  cooldude
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madentist11
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Posts: 6


Huntsville, AL


« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2017, 08:45:15 PM »

Great looking ride!

I just got finished rebuilding my carbs. Rails were bleeding, petcock bleeding, poor idle and needed choke after startup. I replaced all rubber components  that could be made new on the bike.  Also replaced the idle jets. Now my valk starts easy, idles without the choke, and rips down the road!

My only warning is to be careful with the  realignment of the overlapping "paddles" and springs as you slide adjacent  carbs back together.

Good luck!
Tom
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Floss or Die
1978 750A
1979 GL1000
1999 Valkyrie  Tourer
2004 Valkyrie Rune
Randy52
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Posts: 27

SW Wisconsin


« Reply #11 on: April 05, 2017, 11:28:00 PM »

I just did my fuel rails. I was a little nerves--- but had clean work area ---took my time--- took pictures, the little springs on the idle paddles took carefull watching as carbs went together--followed Honda service manual.. I also put new float needles in. The spring on the top of one needle was stuck. The job wasn't as bad as I thought. Also I didn't turn any of the idle screws, so hopefully the carb sync will be the same. Welcome' Randy
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Leathel
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Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #12 on: April 06, 2017, 12:09:21 PM »

I changed a couple of things in my fuel line, carbs stayed in place just replaced a fuel hose.....now I have a leak..... I would be pretty annoyed if I had done the carbs and not the o rings only to have to pull the carbs again to do them.... I would do them if the carbs are removed!
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Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #13 on: April 07, 2017, 09:44:51 PM »

I just did my fuel rails. I was a little nerves--- but had clean work area ---took my time--- took pictures, the little springs on the idle paddles took carefull watching as carbs went together--followed Honda service manual.. I also put new float needles in. The spring on the top of one needle was stuck. The job wasn't as bad as I thought. Also I didn't turn any of the idle screws, so hopefully the carb sync will be the same. Welcome' Randy

It appears my float needle springs are sticky as well. Where do we get these...?
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #14 on: April 08, 2017, 02:51:58 AM »

Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/Supply-18-8955-Float-Needle-K3-Keihin/dp/B001KOD732/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480257219&sr=8-2&keywords=honda+valkyrie+float+needles
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Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2017, 05:52:15 AM »


AWESOME thanks Harry!! Ordered
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
Ceebass68
Member
*****
Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #16 on: April 08, 2017, 07:29:35 PM »

Did the fuel rails today.  Wasnt as bad as I thought. Once I get the float needles Monday, I`ll have the carbs finished up. Did the desmog while everything was apart. Now to tackle the electric fuel shutoff... I'm beyond anxious to hear this thing run...!

Question: when I took the plastic shroud out from in front of the carb bank, there was this "sheet" of rubber. It wasnt in there straight. Obviously someone has been in here before . Looks like they had trouble getting the sheet situated. How important is this? It would make the carb reinstall easier if it wasnt there so...what if I cut it out altogether?  Any concern?

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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #17 on: April 08, 2017, 08:50:52 PM »

Looks like they had trouble getting the sheet situated. How important is this? It would make the carb reinstall easier if it wasnt there so...what if I cut it out altogether?  Any concern?




Yes, very. Don't! Do a search. It is more trouble trying to put it back in later when you find out you need it, and now try to reinstall when the carbs are bake in.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #18 on: April 08, 2017, 08:59:27 PM »

Looks like they had trouble getting the sheet situated. How important is this? It would make the carb reinstall easier if it wasnt there so...what if I cut it out altogether?  Any concern?




Yes, very. Don't! Do a search. It is more trouble trying to put it back in later when you find out you need it, and now try to reinstall when the carbs are bake in.


How would I search that?
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #19 on: April 08, 2017, 09:11:14 PM »

Go back to the "1500 Tech Board" main page, the one listing all the threads, on the upper right just below the ad, is a search field.

Now the hard part, choosing a word(s) to search for.

If you where to search from the main chapter page, it would search all the different forums. You are looking for a Tech issue.

Sometimes, you might want to search the general also.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Ceebass68
Member
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #20 on: April 08, 2017, 09:21:54 PM »


Now the hard part, choosing a word(s) to search for.

Right. I tried "radiator rubber" and found a conversation about it.

Thanks
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
98valk
Member
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Posts: 13472


South Jersey


« Reply #21 on: April 09, 2017, 05:03:26 AM »

Did the fuel rails today.  Wasnt as bad as I thought. Once I get the float needles Monday, I`ll have the carbs finished up. Did the desmog while everything was apart. Now to tackle the electric fuel shutoff... I'm beyond anxious to hear this thing run...!

Question: when I took the plastic shroud out from in front of the carb bank, there was this "sheet" of rubber. It wasnt in there straight. Obviously someone has been in here before . Looks like they had trouble getting the sheet situated. How important is this? It would make the carb reinstall easier if it wasnt there so...what if I cut it out altogether?  Any concern?




looks like it is the RedEye heat shield. http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/14797772/valkyrie-engine-heat-shield-fits

I don't feel its needed unless your racing and/or riding in 90-110 heat all of the time.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Ceebass68
Member
*****
Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #22 on: April 09, 2017, 06:30:27 AM »



looks like it is the RedEye heat shield. http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/14797772/valkyrie-engine-heat-shield-fits

I don't feel its needed unless your racing and/or riding in 90-110 heat all of the time.


Hey CA, thanks for the response. I'm not sure I agree with that though. Redeye's "sheet" appears to lay flat on the engine. The one I encountered was kind of hanging vertcally. It actually has a big hole that straddles the rad hose as you see in the pic. It also was fastened to the stock plastic heat shield with 4 white grommets/snaps.

BUT dammit, thanks for making me aware of that. Now I want that too!! I may never get this bike back together for constantly ordering more cool parts I come across - HA! Guess if I actually knew what the hell I was doing (like you guys here), I'd already have her buttoned up and be riding today instead of typing...

Thanks for all the great help.

« Last Edit: April 09, 2017, 06:35:58 AM by Ceebass68 » Logged

1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13472


South Jersey


« Reply #23 on: April 09, 2017, 09:11:08 AM »



looks like it is the RedEye heat shield. http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/14797772/valkyrie-engine-heat-shield-fits

I don't feel its needed unless your racing and/or riding in 90-110 heat all of the time.


Hey CA, thanks for the response. I'm not sure I agree with that though. Redeye's "sheet" appears to lay flat on the engine. The one I encountered was kind of hanging vertcally. It actually has a big hole that straddles the rad hose as you see in the pic. It also was fastened to the stock plastic heat shield with 4 white grommets/snaps.

BUT dammit, thanks for making me aware of that. Now I want that too!! I may never get this bike back together for constantly ordering more cool parts I come across - HA! Guess if I actually knew what the hell I was doing (like you guys here), I'd already have her buttoned up and be riding today instead of typing...

Thanks for all the great help.




all models have a rubber shield/skirt from the bottom of the rad to the top of the engine. the I/S I believe was wider to accommodate the pods. Is yours an I/S?
might be what that is.
Again, I advise against the redeye shield esp if u ride in cooler weather. carbs will not heat up, mpg will drop, throttle blades could tend to ice up, will run really bad.
these engines run cool, an all aluminum engine dissipates heat fast. these engines where designed to be fully enclosed in body work with side mounted radiators for the GW. Better efficiency and power can be achieved with warmer fuel for better atomization along with colder air. Fuel vapor is what burns. In this case I would stay with the OEM design.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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