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Author Topic: clutch questiom  (Read 2471 times)
Jruby38
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Oxford Mass.


« on: April 20, 2017, 07:40:01 PM »

It is hard to find neutral when the bike gets hot hot like stop and go traffic.  Regular riding its fine.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2017, 07:48:31 PM »

Is it hard to find neutral, or is it hard to get the light ? My Standard can be a pain sometimes to get the light.
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2017, 07:53:42 PM »

My experience is every bike is different in how neutral is found.  Some pop right in and some you have to kick from first to second several times.  Some find in better going up from first and some find it easier going from second down to neutral.

Some riders say it's easier when rolling.

I don't know of any real inherent problem with Valks and neutral discovery.  Maybe your clutch could be affecting the process when warm, maybe the clutch lever bushing is worn and the clutch is not disengaging completely?

Have you serviced the clutch master and/or slave cylinders?  
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2017, 08:29:10 PM »

It is hard to find neutral when the bike gets hot hot like stop and go traffic.  Regular riding its fine.

Not trying to be an ass, but why do you need neutral? Except when I park the bike, it is always in one gear or another. Stopped at a light, I'm ready to move if I need too (not always looking, but ready to move).

edit: like mentioned, sometimes it can be hard, just need to figure out your own bike.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2017, 08:36:13 PM by gordonv » Logged

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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2017, 08:34:15 PM »

It is hard to find neutral when the bike gets hot hot like stop and go traffic.  Regular riding its fine.

Not trying to be an ass, but why do you need neutral? Except when I park the bike, it is always in one gear or another. Stopped at a light, I'm ready to move if I need too (not always looking, but ready to move).
Agreed.  Under normal conditions, the only time I use neutral is when starting for the first time in my driveway.  After that, she's in gear all the time.

But, my I/S won't start in gear and I haven't had time to track down the issue yet, so I've got to find neutral every time I start. Sad
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Valker
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Texas Panhandle


« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2017, 08:39:08 PM »

My guess would be a worn brass bushing in the clutch lever itself. Part # 2 in this drawing: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/GL1/gl29.jpg
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Jruby38
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Posts: 237

Oxford Mass.


« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2017, 04:00:36 PM »

I will change the clutch fluid and check the lever, but I think the problem might be the shift dog. The bike is old enough to vote and has 121k miles. I would like to have a buck or every time I shifted. The heat of the bike is the main factor.  I like to go to neutral at lights because I have a Barnett Clutch and the lever is hard.
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Alberta Patriot
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Say What You mean Mean What You Say

Rockyview County, Alberta 2001 Interstate


« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2017, 04:18:51 PM »

It is hard to find neutral when the bike gets hot hot like stop and go traffic.  Regular riding its fine.

Not trying to be an ass, but why do you need neutral? Except when I park the bike, it is always in one gear or another. Stopped at a light, I'm ready to move if I need too (not always looking, but ready to move).

edit: like mentioned, sometimes it can be hard, just need to figure out your own bike.
My neutral works just fine...easy to find, but it would be irritating if I had to hunt for it all the time...
and not trying to be an ass does not mean we don't excel at it once in a while  Wink
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Say what you mean, Mean what you say.
longrider
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Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2017, 06:05:29 PM »

Give us an idea on where the clutch starts to engage.  When you release the clutch is its it near the bar near the end of the travel or somewhere in between.   This may give us a clue as to your issue
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2017, 06:07:53 PM »

I had a Hog that was impossible to get neutral (once hot) when stopped.  So I always found it when rolling, before stopped (easy).  Watch your mirrors though.
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2017, 08:58:18 PM »

yeah I don't think we're here to criticize a member's riding style (unless of course they're describing something completely asinine or illegal).  after reading this thread earlier today I rode for a few hours and thought of probably a half dozen good reasons why one might need to find neutral.  I could list them but won't.

But as was said let us know where the clutch starts grabbing (it should be somewhere about the middle of the clutch lever travel) and where it is fully engaged (it needs to be before the lever is completely out). Likelihood of it being related to your slave cylinder is pretty good. It may be leaking fluid or just need to be bled or something along those lines.  Also as was said it could be something as simple as a worn clutch lever bushing.  Update us with that info or whatever else you may learn. keep us posted. Good luck.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2017, 04:07:25 AM »

pull slave cylinder apart and clean
due to design of SC just flushing every two yrs doesn't really clean it out and the only way is to take it apart and clean.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/481498-99-gl1500-clutch-problem-help.html

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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Jruby38
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Posts: 237

Oxford Mass.


« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2017, 09:59:15 PM »

I think the problem is the clutch is not releasing all the way because it jumps when I shift into first gear from neutral. 98 valk has me thinking about the slave cylinder could need some attention.
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #13 on: April 23, 2017, 08:27:23 AM »

I will change the clutch fluid and check the lever, but I think the problem might be the shift dog. The bike is old enough to vote and has 121k miles. I would like to have a buck or every time I shifted. The heat of the bike is the main factor.  I like to go to neutral at lights because I have a Barnett Clutch and the lever is hard.

I'm wondering if the Barnett clutch is part of the issue.  did the PO have that done or on your watch?  and do you know was it DIY or a shop?  A Barnett is a racing clutch and obviously has stronger springs, which is working the slave more than OE would.  might be a good move to rebuild or replace the slave.  Just a thought.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2017, 02:17:56 PM »

I think the problem is the clutch is not releasing all the way because it jumps when I shift into first gear from neutral. 98 valk has me thinking about the slave cylinder could need some attention.

jumping into gear? a good indication the damper plate is going bad or has already. I had similar experience before it went bad all together.
others might chime in or search damper plate, u will see others experiences.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Jruby38
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Posts: 237

Oxford Mass.


« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2017, 03:56:03 PM »

A gold wing shop did the Barnett years ago when the damper plate went bad. They put them in wings that pull a trailer. It hooks up like you would't believe. It jumps when I go into first when cold, at normal temp. all works fine, when super hot and fan on its hard to find neutral. Bike is getting old and likes mild temps. like me.
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2017, 04:14:01 PM »

A gold wing shop did the Barnett years ago when the damper plate went bad. They put them in wings that pull a trailer. It hooks up like you would't believe. It jumps when I go into first when cold, at normal temp. all works fine, when super hot and fan on its hard to find neutral. Bike is getting old and likes mild temps. like me.

goldwing sites talk about flushing out the engine to clean the clutch plates.

https://www.auto-rx.com/ is good for cleaning. it works!

or use high detergent high end synthetic diesel oil, either amsoil or redline which have the esters to clean that auto-rx has however, RX is much more concentrated.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2017, 08:30:18 PM »

A gold wing shop did the Barnett years ago when the damper plate went bad. They put them in wings that pull a trailer. It hooks up like you would't believe. It jumps when I go into first when cold, at normal temp. all works fine, when super hot and fan on its hard to find neutral. Bike is getting old and likes mild temps. like me.

Kind of sounds like a slave cylinder thing to me
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #18 on: April 24, 2017, 06:16:25 AM »

What band and weight of motor oil are you using?
Some of the wide rated (15w50) multi viscosity oils can get sticky at very high temps.
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wellandfit
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Posts: 28

Fredericksburg TX


« Reply #19 on: April 24, 2017, 07:26:46 AM »

I'm going through the same problem now.  Replaced the bushing first as it was really worn.  No help!  Then replaced the slave - no help.  I'm now in the process of replacing the clutch. 
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Gabriel
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Near Galveston


« Reply #20 on: April 24, 2017, 08:07:15 AM »

Both of the Valks I have owned have been easy to find neutral, I would have to fix that.
You should be able to put the bike in gear with the engine off, and have it roll fairly easy with the clutch in.
my clutch engages near the end of the lever travel...

These bikes are getting old and so is the rubber in the brake system, you could have a hose that is expanding when you pull the clutch in. 
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Jruby38
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Oxford Mass.


« Reply #21 on: April 24, 2017, 04:26:49 PM »

I changed the clutch fluid and now it's worse. I have to shut the engine off to find neutral. I think I have air in the system now.
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #22 on: April 24, 2017, 10:08:18 PM »

Yes sir that's exactly it you got air and there and you're going to have to bleed it really good. Maybe some of the other guys will chime in but I think it takes quite a bit to get all the air out of there and once you do there should be a big improvement.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #23 on: April 24, 2017, 10:12:28 PM »

I have not done it, but have read here many times that in addition to all the bleeding you can do, tying the clutch lever back all night/24hrs can give decent improvement. 
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Bone
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« Reply #24 on: April 25, 2017, 02:42:14 AM »

Quote
tying the clutch lever back all night/24hrs can give decent improvement. 

That must be the trick I've seen it in 2 different bike shops.
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trout dude
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Hammond Louisiana


« Reply #25 on: April 25, 2017, 05:01:36 AM »

Also you can bleed the banjo bolt at the master cylinder i have gotten air there also
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Gabriel
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Near Galveston


« Reply #26 on: April 25, 2017, 06:45:41 AM »

The highest point in the system is the bleed back hole inside the master cylinder.
With the exception of the bled tube on the slave cylinder this system would bleed itself, and it should if you put a hose on the open bleed valve and take the cover off the master cyl, reservoir, it might take a while...
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jim@98valkyrie.com
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Wayne, PA


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« Reply #27 on: April 25, 2017, 07:06:37 AM »

I had air in my system. After sucking out the old, nasty fluid, I replaced with fresh and added a SpeedBleeder. Used a Mity Vac at the Clutch bleeder and was done in ten minutes. I have encountered the air bubble issue before and it has taken FOREVER to get it out along while  using quite a bit of fluid. The Mity Vac is the way to go!
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Jruby38
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Oxford Mass.


« Reply #28 on: April 25, 2017, 03:14:39 PM »

The slave cyl. looks like a PIA to work on, and will be my last resort.  Is there a Suzuki part no. for the  clutch lever?
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #29 on: April 25, 2017, 05:33:06 PM »

The slave cyl. looks like a PIA to work on, and will be my last resort.  Is there a Suzuki part no. for the  clutch lever?
As per JeffK's generic parts page.

The Honda part Number 2285-MBO-006 is $10

The Suzuki part number 59892-08A00 is $3 and exactly the same part.
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Dale_K
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Hot Springs Village, AR


« Reply #30 on: April 26, 2017, 12:22:15 PM »

How about a link to that generic parts page?
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Gabriel
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Near Galveston


« Reply #31 on: April 26, 2017, 12:25:04 PM »

How about a link to that generic parts page?

If you Google that part number you will get a lot of responses.
It comes back as a bushing;
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/suzuki/SP-59892-08A00.html
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Bone
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« Reply #32 on: April 26, 2017, 12:31:23 PM »

Dale K have you looked at our shop talk page? Jeff K's page is listed.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/
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Jruby38
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Oxford Mass.


« Reply #33 on: April 27, 2017, 06:14:37 PM »

Problem solved by bleeding from the slave cyl. up. Have to see if the problem comes back.
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #34 on: April 28, 2017, 08:07:40 AM »

thanks for the update.  if problem returns, maybe didn't get all the air out.  ride safe.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Jruby38
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Oxford Mass.


« Reply #35 on: April 28, 2017, 02:37:10 PM »

I bought a SC from Pinwall. If problem returns I will install it.
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #36 on: April 28, 2017, 07:59:44 PM »

Yeah got it. Then when you install another slave you got all that bleeding to do again
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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