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Author Topic: Petcock rebuild worth it?  (Read 1726 times)
Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« on: May 01, 2017, 04:54:21 PM »

Hey guys, 500 mis on carb rebuild = flawless until...ran into reserve this weekend and bike has been sputtering ever since. I removed and rinsed the tank during carb rebuild but, guess not enough... Tank off today and flushing. My usual mix of white vinegar and CLR will fix tank but, petcock...? Thing is pretty gummed up. Screen needs to be replaced. I assume it can be purchased?? Is the stock petcock easy enough to clean if I soak it? I've seen where some have gone to a Pingel.

*Update* Pics attached, tank soaking, parts on order

Fuel screen - this was a bear to get out


Petcock top


Petcock side - wonder why they leak...?

« Last Edit: May 03, 2017, 09:21:18 PM by Ceebass68 » Logged

1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14773


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2017, 05:01:55 PM »

Replace that petcock with a quality manual piece and train yourself to turn it off every time
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2017, 05:26:22 PM »


I like the OEM petcock, you can get a new screen and a rebuild kit (cover set).

COVER SET, PETCOCK     16953-MBZ-B51      $27.19

SCREEN SET, FUEL STRAINER   16952-MZ0-003   $11.70

I like this how-to... it has a good test to help you be sure you rebuilt
your petcock correctly before you put it back on.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/petcock.htm

-Mike
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Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2017, 05:37:16 PM »

Awesome, thanks. I have already done the Dan-Marc fuel shut-off valve upgrade and still shut the petcock off every time.
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
jim@98valkyrie.com
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Posts: 395


Wayne, PA


WWW
« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2017, 04:51:16 AM »

If you want to clean any/all the gunk that may be inside the petcock, get yourself a small ultrasonic cleaner. It works faster than soaking alone and you wouldn't believe the crap that it loosens and ends up in the bottom of the cleaner tank. They work well.
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Gabriel
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Posts: 224


Near Galveston


« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2017, 09:34:08 AM »

I've said this before;
s*#t can the screen and install a real filter in the line, because the one in the tank is not nearly effective enough to stop even small debris... (as you have just witnessed)

Adding an inline filter in no way effects the running of your bike, you will read otherwise here.
For some reason some people think that the addition of fuel line to accommodate a filter will somehow cause fuel starvation????? (unless you dumb-thumb the installation)

Liquid is self leveling even if you had five feet of fuel line, the fuel would rise to the exact same level.
The only consideration and I mean the only one is what ever small amount of surface friction the additional line will add.
The tank is always above the carbs and the outlet pressure will remain the exact same at the carbs as it is at the fuel valve.
Flow will be restricted based upon whatever surface friction the additional line adds and it's minuscule at these lengths!
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Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2017, 10:35:00 AM »

Oh, I agree 100% on the inline filter. Already plumbed up waiting on petcock parts. I did the same on my VTX when I bought it. Glad I did! Even after what I thought was a "super clean", I still caught small debris in filter. Changed it at next oil change, new one has been clean ever since (5,000mis). BUT, its still on there in case. Worth the extra protection and peace of mind. I installed a clear one so I could do a quick visual check at anytime.

Never had an issue with lack of fuel or power...
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
Gabriel
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Posts: 224


Near Galveston


« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2017, 10:42:54 AM »

Oh, I agree 100% on the inline filter. Already plumbed up waiting on petcock parts. I did the same on my VTX when I bought it. Glad I did! Even after what I thought was a "super clean", I still caught small debris in filter. Changed it at next oil change, new one has been clean ever since (5,000mis). BUT, its still on there in case. Worth the extra protection and peace of mind. I installed a clear one so I could do a quick visual check at anytime.

Never had an issue with lack of fuel or power...
Mine is a clear plastic filter, going through six carbs is not hard but it ain't fun either...
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Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2017, 09:11:51 AM »

Ran into an issue and have questions... Replaced the petcock diaghrams, new fuel screen and o-ring in tank. now petcock seems to be leaking somehow. The main body is not accessible. There's a spring loaded ball in there. Anybody ever cut one open? Is there some sort of oring or seal supposed to be around the ball?

Hard to tell exactly where the fuel may be coming from but, it seems to be weeping out of the ball area...?

Got a trip coming up next week and starting to get nervous that I may have to ride on back with someone else!

Thanks
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
Gabriel
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Posts: 224


Near Galveston


« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2017, 11:50:02 AM »

I have seen hoses leak where they go on the fitting at the valve that appear to be leaking from the valve.
You seem to be uncertain, I would make sure of where it's coming from first.
Blow it off with compressed air and use a mirror and flash light to make sure.
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Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2017, 02:35:34 PM »

Thanks Gabriel, I figured it out... Turns out the new Honda fuel screen was shorter than original. It created a gap where its supposed to slide into top of petcock so the o-ring wasnt seating and fuel was leaking by:


Since there are internal stops in the screen, I had to cut the petcock tube about 1/4" for it to seat. All good now!

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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
indybobm
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2017, 02:56:37 PM »

Be aware that cutting the tube will give you less reserve.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
Ceebass68
Member
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2017, 03:34:14 PM »

Makes sense. Thanks. I'm good with that
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
keithi
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Posts: 6


« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2017, 09:29:00 PM »

" There's a spring loaded ball in there. Anybody ever cut one open? Is there some sort of oring or seal supposed to be around the ball?"

Here's what I found when I cut mine open...

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Gabriel
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Posts: 224


Near Galveston


« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2017, 09:32:21 PM »

I think the seal is around the openings that the ball seats in, if I remember right. (it's round)
What do you mean "you had to cut it open", I've had mine apart but I don't remember have to cut anything?
Yeah, just those two screws and that side comes apart.
This is an OEM part;
« Last Edit: May 06, 2017, 09:45:17 PM by Gabriel » Logged
Ceebass68
Member
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #15 on: May 07, 2017, 04:08:32 AM »

Those arent screws...more like rivets. Drill or cut is only way in. Thanks for the pic Keith! I was afraid there were o-rings of some sort in there. Got her rebuilt but still weeps a little. Glad I put the dan-marc fuel shut-off inline...! I may do the Pingel upgrade at some point down the road. Getting tired of wrenching. Ready to RIDE!! I bought the CB's for wrenching...
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
Gabriel
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Posts: 224


Near Galveston


« Reply #16 on: May 07, 2017, 06:57:06 AM »

Mine did not have rivets
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #17 on: May 07, 2017, 07:52:35 AM »

Mine did not have rivets
Then a previous owner has taken it apart, or it's a rebuilt aftermarket one.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5761


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #18 on: May 07, 2017, 10:53:47 AM »

Mine did not have rivets
Then a previous owner has taken it apart, or it's a rebuilt aftermarket one.

I believe the Ball side is riveted closed. Drill and replace with small nut/bolt.

The diaphragm side cover is screwed.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #19 on: May 07, 2017, 11:49:07 AM »

Ok so, damn thing is leaking more now than it did before I re-diphragm-ed it. Dammit... As mentioned, I have the Dan-Marc shut-off installed. Guess the crud inside was sealing it...

Leaving in 3 days for a 1,500 mile trip with some buddies.

Opinion questions:

Let it ride and replace whole petcock when I return? Or
Drill it open now as suggested and TRY to match orings around ball?

If i let it ride, gravity fed fuel will stay trapped between petcock output and Dan-Marc. Not a huge deal right? I have made sure all connections are new and tight in between...
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
The emperor has no clothes
Member
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #20 on: May 07, 2017, 02:00:34 PM »

Ok so, damn thing is leaking more now than it did before I re-diphragm-ed it. Dammit... As mentioned, I have the Dan-Marc shut-off installed. Guess the crud inside was sealing it...

Leaving in 3 days for a 1,500 mile trip with some buddies.

Opinion questions:

Let it ride and replace whole petcock when I return? Or
Drill it open now as suggested and TRY to match orings around ball?

If i let it ride, gravity fed fuel will stay trapped between petcock output and Dan-Marc. Not a huge deal right? I have made sure all connections are new and tight in between...
Myself, I wouldn't knowingly ride with a leaking petcock. For me, it would be Fedexing a new petcock.
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Cracker Jack
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Posts: 556



« Reply #21 on: May 07, 2017, 02:56:40 PM »

"If i let it ride, gravity fed fuel will stay trapped between petcock output and Dan-Marc. Not a huge deal right? I have made sure all connections are new and tight in between..."




You can get "confirmation" answers to this question for either way you want to go, just pick the one that makes you comfortable and/or the poster you trust.

There are many like me on this board who never take the petcock off reserve and many who believe if you leave the petcock on overnight you are probably certain to have hydrolock the next day.

Regardless, you will have "gravity fed fuel" between the petcock and Dan-Marc either way. It's trapped only if both valves are closed. cooldude

Who knows, I might be hydrolocked right now and not know it. I sure hope not uglystupid2
« Last Edit: May 07, 2017, 02:58:51 PM by Cracker Jack » Logged
Ceebass68
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #22 on: May 07, 2017, 06:39:54 PM »

I agree with Meathead and would be nervous with it leaking during the trip. Even if I thought chances were low that it would cause an issue.

So...split her open


Cleaned it out, installed new Viton o-rings, stretched the spring out a tad, tapped some threads and buttoned her up


No leaks!!! Man, I feel better. Thanks for the opinions and help guys!!
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
The emperor has no clothes
Member
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #23 on: May 07, 2017, 06:54:33 PM »

I agree with Meathead and would be nervous with it leaking during the trip. Even if I thought chances were low that it would cause an issue.

So...split her open


Cleaned it out, installed new Viton o-rings, stretched the spring out a tad, tapped some threads and buttoned her up


No leaks!!! Man, I feel better. Thanks for the opinions and help guys!!
Nice work  cooldude
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Ceebass68
Member
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Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #24 on: May 28, 2017, 08:42:00 AM »

Replace that petcock with a quality manual piece and train yourself to turn it off every time

Hey Chris, I'm assuming you have done this. What petcock did you use? Still have the info?

My OEM rebuild lasted 2,000 miles with no issue. Now its weeping again. I'm leaning towards non-vac operated Pingel. I only want to do this 1 more time...

Thanks!
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #25 on: May 28, 2017, 11:16:19 AM »

Go to the Pingel.  I did, no more problems.  Good you have the Dan-Marc.  Gabriel seems to speak from theory - I used to believe the same on the fuel finding it's level no matter what you do with the line underneath and posted that here.  Others said WRONG they experienced starvation - I doubted that.  Then the bike humbled me.  It had fuel starving with a loop in the fuel line.  Pretty sure the high point created a bubble that blocked the flow - the head pressure above it wasn't enough to push past the bubble. Lots of others have experienced the same thing.  The important thing is apparently, keep the flow level or downhill.  Not so sure as some say, the line length matters.  I know which fuel filter you use, matters.  At least source one that is made for gravity flow, not fuel pumped. I had starvation also from a fuel filter that didn't flow enough.  I also had starvaion from the smaller Dan-Marc and went to the bigger one.  But then, by then I was pulling a heavy boxy camper trailer cross country at slab speeds and getting mileage as bad as 18mpg.  Averaged about 23.  The smaller Dan-Marc has not been a problem on my first Valk, Deerslayer - not rigged for towing and consistently gets 34mpg.  Now Jade (my tourer rigged for towing) has no more fuel problems - has a Pingel, large Dan-Marc, gravity feed (though it has a belly tank as a large reserve), a level standard length fuel line and no extra fuel filter on the gravity line.  I moved the supposed hi-flow filter to the pumped line that returns the belly tank fuel to the main. Wish I could filter all the fuel (in the gravity line) but the bike doesn't allow that with my high demand and the hi-flow filter from R&M I tried.  Perhaps with a really good filter I could do that but for now, only have the Pingel inlet screen on it.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2017, 12:12:13 PM by MarkT » Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Ceebass68
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*****
Posts: 93


Richmond, Va


« Reply #26 on: May 28, 2017, 11:43:24 AM »

Ahhh found the right part in a previous post 1311-CH. Gonna grab on ebay now.

Thanks Mark for the tip about fuel line level. Definitely gonna check while I have tank off..
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1997 Valk Standard Bumblebee (4th)
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