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Author Topic: U-joint  (Read 1321 times)
mrtlc
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Posts: 168


Elroy WI


« on: May 27, 2017, 07:51:07 PM »

Can you replace just the joint when it goes bad, or do have to replace the hole unit, joint and yokes?  If you can replace just the joint, what is the part # Thanks MRTLC
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99 Interstate 1500
89 Goldwing sidecar 1500
88 Goldwing 1500
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80 Goldwing 1100
79 Yamaha XT500
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2017, 08:10:05 PM »

The whole thing. There have been attempts to redo just the joint, but I don't think any of them have been successful long term.
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97BLKVALK
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VRCC#26021

Detroit Lakes, MN


« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2017, 08:53:15 PM »

http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506cb5a2f870023420a41650

You will find it listed here.

Michael
Too Inzane or Bust
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1998 GL1500C - Blue and Cream
Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2017, 10:41:00 PM »

You're in luck.  They were $66 for years and years, but now they are $131.  tickedoff

#1!  (don't look up U joint, they call it a joint, yoke)

http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2f72f870023420a31b61/swingarm

Most people think getting a new boot is a good idea too (#8), as they are supposedly easier to (re)mount than old stiff ones.  There's another good reason.  After all afternoon trying to get one on, it's real easy to get mean with it and tear it.  Then you'll really wish you had another one on hand already so you can get your bike back together.  (I know I did)  crazy2



A few guys have boogered up their #5 too, separating the pumpkin from the shaft.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2017, 10:46:11 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
mrtlc
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Posts: 168


Elroy WI


« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2017, 06:41:54 AM »

Does anybody have a junk joint that  I can try to change the cross. I'll pay the shipping. MRTLC
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99 Interstate 1500
89 Goldwing sidecar 1500
88 Goldwing 1500
85 Goldwing 1200
84 Gold wing 1200
80 Goldwing 1100
79 Yamaha XT500
78 Honda 750K
 +++
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2017, 08:13:35 AM »

Does anybody have a junk joint that  I can try to change the cross. I'll pay the shipping. MRTLC

do a tech board search. the problem is the joint is not a std size avail. the cups are staked in, no clips. many have tried, nobody has ever posted back with a long term repair.
sometimes u can find a low mileage one from a GL1500 on craigslist or ebay, for cheap. The earlier ones actually have lighter yokes, no excess metal which isn't needed for less unsprung rotating weight.
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Tfrank59
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« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2017, 08:41:23 AM »

You're in luck.  They were $66 for years and years, but now they are $131.  tickedoff

#1!  (don't look up U joint, they call it a joint, yoke)

http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2f72f870023420a31b61/swingarm

Most people think getting a new boot is a good idea too (#8), as they are supposedly easier to (re)mount than old stiff ones.  There's another good reason.  After all afternoon trying to get one on, it's real easy to get mean with it and tear it.  Then you'll really wish you had another one on hand already so you can get your bike back together.  (I know I did)  crazy2



A few guys have boogered up their #5 too, separating the pumpkin from the shaft.



Jess, shouldn't a guy also get the spring and washers with that?  I bought a new boot sometime ago, prepping for the inevitable, so I've got that... I also tried to go the cheaper ebay route with the u-joint, but the one I got for $25 has a little play when tested in a vise.  got to bite the bullet and spend $ on a new one.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2017, 09:35:29 AM »

First, I am no expert (and don't know).

Second, I've only ever needed a U joint and boot. (I got the pinion cup and shaft too when mine went out, just in case I needed them, and didn't.)  The pinion cup has been used to seat wheel bearings, and is perfect for the job as it's outer edge of hardened steel just touches the extreme outer edge of the race.  With a frozen bearing, two or three light taps with a rubber mallet put it right into the pocket.

Third, I'd never get a used U joint (unless it was extra special, and in great condition, and someone who knew what he was doing proved it to me in person).  Replacing it is not a horrible job, but it can be a real bummer failing far from home, and it is something one hopes to do only once per bike in his lifetime.

I think mine went out, because in a former life that bike had a wet nitrous system, and had been blasted down the quarter mile a number of times.  Banzaiiii!

Fourth, with two bikes, I always have a new one in my parts bin.  I hope it's still there when I take the dirt nap.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2017, 09:40:41 AM by Jess from VA » Logged
old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2017, 01:19:59 PM »

Spend the money change it out one and done. The original in mine lived a bit over 93000 miles. And plus a LOT on the new boot. RIDE SAFE.
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mrtlc
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Posts: 168


Elroy WI


« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2017, 05:03:57 PM »

I hate it when they take an easily repaired $20 dollar repair and turn it into a $100.oo plus part. Ford did that with my drive shaft. Midshift bearing went bad, $30.oo part (NO) over $1000, the hole drive shaft had to be replaced . Fool me once shame on you. It won't happen again. tickedoff tickedoff MRTLC
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99 Interstate 1500
89 Goldwing sidecar 1500
88 Goldwing 1500
85 Goldwing 1200
84 Gold wing 1200
80 Goldwing 1100
79 Yamaha XT500
78 Honda 750K
 +++
SPOFF
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Derry, NH


« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2017, 12:24:10 AM »

You're in luck.  They were $66 for years and years, but now they are $131.  tickedoff



The universal joints were also unavailble for years at a time... Has that improved?
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2017, 07:59:39 AM »

You're in luck.  They were $66 for years and years, but now they are $131.  tickedoff



The universal joints were also unavailable for years at a time... Has that improved?

Yes.  And to my knowledge, they were only unavailable from Honda for about a year (give or take) a few years ago.  They lost their Mfr. and had to find another.  The new price came with the new Mfr.   

Though anyone paying attention has seen many of the wear (and other) parts we need going up in price.  Like the little plastic chrome alternator cover.   
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