4th gear 20mph or 5th gear 30mph clutch slip normal

[kodiakfisher]

So here is the deal in 4th gear down around 20mph or 5th gear 30mph when rolling smartly onto the the throttle i.e. not babying it but not hammering it either. Is some clutch slippage normal.

I very rarely lug an engine and typically stay above 2k rpms. I forgot to shift down and then rolled back on the throttle and experienced some clutch slippage. Delo oil has less than 1000 miles on it.

Thanks,

Kodiakfisher

[Hook#3287]

I don't believe so.

I've never had a clutch slip as you describe in all the years (crap, almost 2 decades ) I've been riding Valks.

I've only lugged them a few times in all that time, but never had that issue.

I have Delo oil in one and she's fine.

[Chrisj CMA]

Not normal

If it doesn't do it yet when in the proper gear it will and will sooner if you keep doing it.

Either way sounds like you need a clutch.

What oil do you you use?

[The emperor has no clothes]

What they said. I used to have a 45 mile commute to work. Most where you could safely ride at whatever speed you cared to. But one section went along a section with a 35 mph speed limit. Sometimes if nobody was behind me to break the monotony I would see how slow I could go in 5th and smoothly accelerate out of it. Never have had any slippage in 100k of Valkyries. If it were me, I'd start with the simple stuff of the hydraulic clutch system and a different oil.

[John Schmidt]

I'm not familiar with Delo but if what you used has any friction modifiers in it, then most likely your clutch is slipping. I'd check that first if you still have a container left to look at, then dump that oil and change to something else, and I'd change the replacement oil a couple times at around 500 miles so as to completely flush it out. After that, don't run your mph down so low in either 4th or 5th, that does lug the engine.

[Chrisj CMA]

Sorry I missed the oil brand.  I too have not heard anything anout Delo. You didn't indicate the viscosity but if it's the 15 40, it does appear to have friction modifiers and then could very well be the cause of the slipping.

I would drain that put a cheap 10 40 without any friction modifiers (see specs circle) add a 5 minute flush. Run it up to operating temp then drain that.  Then put in
some good synthetic 4 stroke motorcycle oil in and see if it still slips

[The emperor has no clothes]

Sorry I missed the oil brand.  I too have not heard anything anout Delo. You didn't indicate the viscosity but if it's the 15 40, it does appear to have friction modifiers and then could very well be the cause of the slipping.

I would drain that put a cheap 10 40 without any friction modifiers (see specs circle) add a 5 minute flush. Run it up to operating temp then drain that.  Then put in
some good synthetic 4 stroke motorcycle oil in and see if it still slips

I think it was the cheap branded oil from Chevron ? I haven't used it in decades. Quality oil is relatively cheap as I am.  But a good synthetic is where it's at for me. In all my vehicles.

[Blackduck]

Would not call Delo a cheap brand, used in heavy Diesels but would question just what it is.
Other point where does your clutch engage as you let the lever out? Nearly all the way out?
Have had to add play into the lever/cylinder area, filed the link pin to reduce length.
Before anyone suggests the pivot bush it was fine  in this case, just the lever had to be nearly fully out before it would engage properly. Since added Gold Wing adjustable levers ti get to engage closer to the bar.

[Hook#3287]

 "Boron is the latest high tech detergent and anti-wear agent. Last time I checked Chevon Delo had the highest level."

Quote from 98Valk's post when I asked about flushing a Valk motor on I bike I bought that had been ignored in the oil change department.

It has some sludge build up and I wanted something to clean it up, so on his suggestion I used Delo.

I've noticed no clutch slippage and it's my Bobber, so I've been twisting the right wrist kinda hard.

The label says nothing about friction modifiers in the spec circle.

I haven't gone much more than 1k or so, so I've not changed it yet.

[Hooter]

I run Rotella T 15x40 in all 3 of my bikes, never a clutch problem.  To answer your question about the clutch engagement,  mine let's out towards the end, no issues.

Not to start an oil thread,  . I'D dump the Delo and try some other brand of motorcycle specific oil. If you can get it, Rotella "T" 15 x 40 is inexpensive oil but wet clutch compatable. I used it in 19 pieces of fire apparatus to include small pumps and never a failure. I swear by it. But, to each his own.

Lugging any bike isn't a good thing.

[firea100]

Good afternoon!
I'd like to chime in about a problem with my 2001 Interstate Trike (27,xxx miles) This has been on-going thing since I brought it home a month ago.
I've installed Rotella T-4 15w40 oil in the bike. I've just purchased the trike and am having a bad chatter in what feels like the clutch. It is under acceleration when it occurs. I've just replaced the complete driveshaft from MototTrike. The old one was trashed (no lube). Thought for sure that was the problem. NOPE!! I've gone through the 1500 tech archives and can't seem to get a definative answer as to what my problem may be. The noise and grinding, viberation  happen wheather cold or warm. The clutch handle acts as it should, doesn't bind at the end of it's travel. I do hear a metallic noise, almost like a bell going off during this chattering. Could that be a symptom of those "rivets" giving up the ghost? Would like to start disassembling the bike to repair it but I'm not sure if it's the clutch or if I'm missing something else.
The reason I posted this here was because of the oil conversation and the fact that the oil is T-4 not just T. I also looked on the label and in that round circle, I saw nothing about any friction modifiers.
One other symptom, when I'm in first gear, motor stopped, I'll pull in my clutch to start the bike. You can always feel a slight "lurch" of the bike when starting, no matter the fact that you have the clutch pulled in fully.
Sorry to have highjacked the thread.
Larry In East China Mi.

[3W-lonerider]

I also have a trike. if your clutch is chattering, and I know exactly what your referring to. you need a new clutch. only oil that I found that would remove some of that chattering was Castrol 10w40 syn.
but it isn't going to totally remove it. once I replaced the clutch the chatter went away. my clutch has 70.000 miles on it now and the chatter has not returned yet. but when it does it's getting a new clutch..
being a trike you can do that clutch job in 4 hours.

[firea100]

3W-Lonerider,
Thank you for the info. I kind of thought that's where this may have been going. I'm going to start the search for the parts I'll need. Did you use factory parts or aftermarket? Did you use only the clutch discs or were there any other items you had to replace?
Thanks for the info, and if you think of any other tidbits of info you think may be helpful please pm me or post them here!
Larry in East China Mi

[3W-lonerider]

the fiber disks should be all you need. I bought and used the new metal disks but I really didn't see anything wrong with them got new ones because the way mine was chattering I thought the metal ones mighta been alittle warped or burnt.. I used oem parts.

[wiggydotcom]

Symptoms of the clutch rivets breaking in the damper plate will be that on occasion(but with increasing regularity), you won't be able to squeeze the clutch lever all the way to the handlebar every time. It will also be hard to find neutral on occasion. When my damper went bad, my clutch slipped in EVERY gear when I hit the throttle hard----like you would if you were passing a car.


This picture gives you an idea of what the spacers look like that sit in the damper plate. Also notice the broken rivets.  Of course, with good rivets, these spacers should be evenly distributed around the damper plate.



This picture shows what happens when the rivets let loose and the plates stack up in one place. Since the clutch pack grows in size of the stack, you can no longer compress it the normal amount....which is why your clutch lever doesn't pull back all the time any more.




If this is what happened to yours, you'll certainly need a new damper plate. How much more will depend on a visual inspection/measurements of disc thicknesses, etc.

DON'T FORGET to order a new cover gasket. The old one shouldn't be reused. Good luck!

[The emperor has no clothes]

Symptoms of the clutch rivets breaking in the damper plate will be that on occasion(but with increasing regularity), you won't be able to squeeze the clutch lever all the way to the handlebar every time. It will also be hard to find neutral on occasion. When my damper went bad, my clutch slipped in EVERY gear when I hit the throttle hard----like you would if you were passing a car.


This picture gives you an idea of what the spacers look like that sit in the damper plate. Also notice the broken rivets.  Of course, with good rivets, these spacers should be evenly distributed around the damper plate.



This picture shows what happens when the rivets let loose and the plates stack up in one place. Since the clutch pack grows in size of the stack, you can no longer compress it the normal amount....which is why your clutch lever doesn't pull back all the time any more.




If this is what happened to yours, you'll certainly need a new damper plate. How much more will depend on a visual inspection/measurements of disc thicknesses, etc.

DON'T FORGET to order a new cover gasket. The old one shouldn't be reused. Good luck!

What is the significance of the little notches on the fiber plates of the clutch ?

[wiggydotcom]

Symptoms of the clutch rivets breaking in the damper plate will be that on occasion(but with increasing regularity), you won't be able to squeeze the clutch lever all the way to the handlebar every time. It will also be hard to find neutral on occasion. When my damper went bad, my clutch slipped in EVERY gear when I hit the throttle hard----like you would if you were passing a car.


This picture gives you an idea of what the spacers look like that sit in the damper plate. Also notice the broken rivets.  Of course, with good rivets, these spacers should be evenly distributed around the damper plate.



This picture shows what happens when the rivets let loose and the plates stack up in one place. Since the clutch pack grows in size of the stack, you can no longer compress it the normal amount....which is why your clutch lever doesn't pull back all the time any more.




If this is what happened to yours, you'll certainly need a new damper plate. How much more will depend on a visual inspection/measurements of disc thicknesses, etc.

DON'T FORGET to order a new cover gasket. The old one shouldn't be reused. Good luck!

What is the significance of the little notches on the fiber plates of the clutch ?

Ya got me on that one, Rob. I'm not sure. I was VERY fortunate to buy an entire used clutch on Ebay when mine went bad. I paid about 85 bucks for the whole package, including the clutch basket. I just took the pack out and put it in my bike. Easy peasy.