tank lining

[baldo]

I'm applying a tank liner tomorrow, using Caswell liner. Does anyone have experience with this product? I've read quite a few comments about the more common liner products like Kreem and Redcoat, but went with the Caswell. My concern is what is a safe interval between application and filling it with gas?

I've read between a few days to a couple of weeks.....

[hubcapsc]

I'd put a rust remover of some sort in there instead, but I haven't seen your
tank.

Grumpy mentioned one kind of rust remover in a post, and Punisher used that kind to remove
rust in a nasty tank he has and said it worked great. I've used a different rust
remover that works, but the one I used was an acid and was harsh (maybe
not appropriate to pour in your tank), the one Grumpy mentioned was not
harsh...

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

I used a tank liner on an old Hodaka tank once... bleghh...

-Mike

[signart]

There is no liner out there that ethanol will not eventually destroy.  Like said above, just get the rust out of there.

[Bagger John - #3785]

POR-15. It chemically bonds to the metal and reinforces the underlying structure.

Look inside a late-model Harley tank some time. They use an OEM equivalent.

[mark81]

Vinegar works for rust removal. Do not line tank unless it is leaking

[baldo]

Thank you for the replies.

I've taken the advice not to line it. The rust wasn't bad to begin with. I've etched it with the Kreem kit, now I'll remove the water/acid and do the MEK wash. The problem is I won't be mounting it on the bike for a few days. Do I need to worry about flash rusting if I get it good and dry?

I suppose I could fill it with fuel and drain it when I'm ready to mount it....that sucker is heavy when full....

The tank has been repaired before and there are a couple of spots with some sort of stick on leak patch that seem to be holding up well.

[hubcapsc]

I've never done it to a gas tank, but wd40 prevents rust and its residue
wouldn't hurt anything. I used to use wd40 as starter fluid on my
8N (it starts good now, don't need starter fluid)... squirted it right
into each spark plug hole...

-Mike

[signart]

POR-15. It chemically bonds to the metal and reinforces the underlying structure.

Look inside a late-model Harley tank some time. They use an OEM equivalent.

Just pulled the tank out of my 50,000 mile '66 C-10 Chevy truck. I coated it with POR-15 6 years ago, because the bottom seam looked to have a little streak of rust. Since I was restoring the truck completely, I thought I would make it so I would never have to worry about it again.  When first done it looked like silver glass. Was so hard you couldn't scratch it with a nail. I had to run a tap through the threads that hold the sending unit. Now you can roll the crap off with a dull putty knife. A coat of rust under the entire surface. Ruined my GM tank. Now I have to put in a Chinese re-pop in my all American built classic. Google it, google all of them. None will hold up to ethanol permanently.
If you're an old man and you don't plan on lasting very long, use it. If you plan on keeping it or handing it down, do something else.

[baldo]

POR-15. It chemically bonds to the metal and reinforces the underlying structure.

Look inside a late-model Harley tank some time. They use an OEM equivalent.

Just pulled the tank out of my 50,000 mile '66 C-10 Chevy truck. I coated it with POR-15 6 years ago, because the bottom seam looked to have a little streak of rust. Since I was restoring the truck completely, I thought I would make it so I would never have to worry about it again.  When first done it looked like silver glass. Was so hard you couldn't scratch it with a nail. I had to run a tap through the threads that hold the sending unit. Now you can roll the crap off with a dull putty knife. A coat of rust under the entire surface. Ruined my GM tank. Now I have to put in a Chinese re-pop in my all American built classic. Google it, google all of them. None will hold up to ethanol permanently.
If you're an old man and you don't plan on lasting very long, use it. If you plan on keeping it or handing it down, do something else.

Lol.....good advice.....


DOH

[The emperor has no clothes]

POR-15. It chemically bonds to the metal and reinforces the underlying structure.

Look inside a late-model Harley tank some time. They use an OEM equivalent.

Just pulled the tank out of my 50,000 mile '66 C-10 Chevy truck. I coated it with POR-15 6 years ago, because the bottom seam looked to have a little streak of rust. Since I was restoring the truck completely, I thought I would make it so I would never have to worry about it again.  When first done it looked like silver glass. Was so hard you couldn't scratch it with a nail. I had to run a tap through the threads that hold the sending unit. Now you can roll the crap off with a dull putty knife. A coat of rust under the entire surface. Ruined my GM tank. Now I have to put in a Chinese re-pop in my all American built classic. Google it, google all of them. None will hold up to ethanol permanently.
If you're an old man and you don't plan on lasting very long, use it. If you plan on keeping it or handing it down, do something else.

Lol.....god advice.....

Bob, no invoking of God involved. 

[signart]

POR-15. It chemically bonds to the metal and reinforces the underlying structure.

Look inside a late-model Harley tank some time. They use an OEM equivalent.

  Lord, knows I'm not knocking POR. They make good products. I have used their chassis paint and engine enamel with great results. I was tipped off by my Cadillac forum members as to failure of various tank coatings. My thoughts were, my tank certainly has not given any problem. Then I scoped the filler neck, even where it is not immersed and it showed some bubbling. I the pulled the sending unit where I scraped the coating off with an inch wide piece of sheet metal.


Just pulled the tank out of my 50,000 mile '66 C-10 Chevy truck. I coated it with POR-15 6 years ago, because the bottom seam looked to have a little streak of rust. Since I was restoring the truck completely, I thought I would make it so I would never have to worry about it again.  When first done it looked like silver glass. Was so hard you couldn't scratch it with a nail. I had to run a tap through the threads that hold the sending unit. Now you can roll the crap off with a dull putty knife. A coat of rust under the entire surface. Ruined my GM tank. Now I have to put in a Chinese re-pop in my all American built classic. Google it, google all of them. None will hold up to ethanol permanently.
If you're an old man and you don't plan on lasting very long, use it. If you plan on keeping it or handing it down, do something else.

Lol.....god advice.....

Bob, no invoking of God involved.  

[baldo]

I've never done it to a gas tank, but wd40 prevents rust and its residue
wouldn't hurt anything. I used to use wd40 as starter fluid on my
8N (it starts good now, don't need starter fluid)... squirted it right
into each spark plug hole...

-Mike

I had the same thought....I'll be away from it for a few days, so I'll leave it full of water for now. By that time I should be ready to mount it......

[mark81]

Coat it in stabil 360 or 2 stroke oil.  Rinse with a splash of gas when ready to install.  Or run it with the oil. May smoke a bit but no harm

[gordonv]

When I parted out my wrecked IS, I emptied the tank, and then used an oil/engine fogging spray.

You would have to ask John S how it went cleaning it out, put I suspect that the oil didn't do anything after adding fuel to it. Not enough to smoke. A few ounces to a few gal of fuel, when an fuel/oil mix is something like 30/1.