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Author Topic: 1998 Valk - electrical help needed  (Read 1407 times)
grennels
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« on: June 08, 2017, 06:00:49 PM »

1998 Honda Valkyrie ran fine when put away for winter in a heated garage.  Battery was on float charger over the winter.  Went to start it today.  Turned key on, hit starter button - nothing.

Pulled seat and put meter on battery - got 13+ volts.  Then turned the key on - voltage dropped to 0 volts. 

Removed positive cable.  Battery tested 13+ volts.

Put amp meter between positive terminal and positive cable.  Key off - 0 amps.   Key on - massive amp draw.


What next???

TIA.
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Firefighter
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Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2017, 06:07:38 PM »

First I would think bad battery or bad battery connections.
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Steel cowboy
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« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2017, 06:43:53 PM »

What did you mean by massive, as in number format? Massive amp draw would indicate a short. Starter relay ok? Did any critters chew some wires? Bad starter switch? Does the head light come on?
« Last Edit: June 08, 2017, 06:45:25 PM by Steel cowboy » Logged

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3W-lonerider
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Shippensburg Pa


« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2017, 06:55:09 PM »

acts just like a dead cell in the battery..
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grennels
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« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2017, 08:28:32 PM »

I will pull the battery and get it load tested.  Critters are pretty unlikely.  I read the amps with an old analog meter.  It pegged the needle.  The headlight did not come on, nor would the horn work.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2017, 08:30:15 PM by grennels » Logged
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2017, 04:50:47 AM »

sounds like a bad battery which has dropped a cell. esp if u saw the volts go to zero when hitting the start button.
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grennels
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« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2017, 01:44:41 PM »

Battery volts went to 0 before I even hit the starter button.  Just turning the ignition switch on pulled it to 0.
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gordonv
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« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2017, 08:35:37 PM »

I would always try to jump it first. A lot easier than pulling the battery.

If it starts with a jump, I would then try a different charger.

Which brand charger? I used a Tender Jr. Now I own a CTECK 3300 (I think).
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MarkT
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« Reply #8 on: June 10, 2017, 01:26:09 AM »

I'd check the battery ground. Run a jumper from the neg post to the frame. Or just move the battery ground at the back of the engine block to the left footpeg mount. Should do that anyway.
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da prez
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. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #9 on: June 10, 2017, 07:27:46 AM »

  I go thru this a lot at the bike shop. My .02 worth. Disconnect the ground cable on the bike. Use a car battery with jumper cables (non-running). Hook the positive to the battery positive , and the negative to another ground on the bike. If it starts , possibly the battery.
    Now my soap box!
 As stated , disconnect and clean and dia-electric all connections. Have battery properly tested. Even if you short cut and have a bad battery , still clean all terminals.   Many a bad battery and alternator was a corroded connection. I always do a full check of the taken for granted.

                                            da prez 
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indybobm
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« Reply #10 on: June 10, 2017, 09:34:24 AM »

I have the same question as Steel Cowboy. what do you mean by massive current draw with the switch on? What tyupe of meter are you using? Is there really that much current flowing? Does it blow any fuses? Find someone with a good voltage meter, set it ip properly to read amps (probably the 10Amp Range) and see what is really going wrong. The massive current draw does not make sense.
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grennels
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« Reply #11 on: June 10, 2017, 11:13:37 AM »

You guys were right. (And I'm happy)  Took the battery and had it tested.  It flunked.
Put a new battery in and she started right up.

I've never seen a battery fail in this fashion before.
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Valkpilot
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What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #12 on: June 10, 2017, 05:25:11 PM »

You guys were right. (And I'm happy)  Took the battery and had it tested.  It flunked.
Put a new battery in and she started right up.

I've never seen a battery fail in this fashion before.

Very common.  They work till they don't.
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