Swing arm/final drive question

[clanky]

I've got a 98 standard with 115K on her (Original owner).  Had some abrupt growling noises along with a good shake when accelerating.  After reading many threads on this site I'm thinking I've got a universal joint going bad.
Tore it down and got the U-joint out and it is in great shape!  Rotation of both yokes are perfectly smooth, I pull and twist and cannot feel even the slightest bit of looseness.  Problem must be somewhere else.  So again remembering others who recommended checking pinion gear and cup...sure enough it was bone dry....powdered rust fell out of the cup...it looks like the gear spun inside the cup and rounded off the teeth on both components.  That could definitely cause my problem.  Getting parts for it and will install.
Question for you all:  There was absolutely no moisture nor oil or grease of any kind in  pinion cup.  It's almost as if it was never greased from the get go.  I am the original owner and do NOT ride when it's wet.  I have a tough enough time staying alive when the roads are dry.  The only time my bike sees water is when I give her a bath.  Would you agree with my supposition that the pinion was never lubed in the first place?  Thanks for any opinions or input on this.   Clanky

[Bone]

Have my 98 Tourer down right now 146k. My noise came from the left rear wheel bearing. I tore mine down to the U-joint doing my final drive maintenance.
Most of us do the final drive maintenance every 10K miles. Every thing was well lubed from my last maintenance job.

My local Napa had the bearing, $24.90. The right side she didn't have but can get it by Tuesday if I want one, $55 for that one.

[Chrisj CMA]

I've got a 98 standard with 115K on her (Original owner).  Had some abrupt growling noises along with a good shake when accelerating.  After reading many threads on this site I'm thinking I've got a universal joint going bad.
Tore it down and got the U-joint out and it is in great shape!  Rotation of both yokes are perfectly smooth, I pull and twist and cannot feel even the slightest bit of looseness.  Problem must be somewhere else.  So again remembering others who recommended checking pinion gear and cup...sure enough it was bone dry....powdered rust fell out of the cup...it looks like the gear spun inside the cup and rounded off the teeth on both components.  That could definitely cause my problem.  Getting parts for it and will install.
Question for you all:  There was absolutely no moisture nor oil or grease of any kind in  pinion cup.  It's almost as if it was never greased from the get go.  I am the original owner and do NOT ride when it's wet.  I have a tough enough time staying alive when the roads are dry.  The only time my bike sees water is when I give her a bath.  Would you agree with my supposition that the pinion was never lubed in the first place?  Thanks for any opinions or input on this.   Clanky

It should be cleaned and greased at least at every tire change.  Have you ever looked at it while the wheel was off?

I doubt mother Honda did it wrong but after 100,000 miles lack of lube is on the owner not the original builder!

[Jess from VA]

Would you agree with my supposition that the pinion was never lubed in the first place?

It was likely lubed at assembly.  Since then, it's hard to say.  

There have been debates and discussions about whether the little hole in the Pcup can or is supposed to slurp up some 80-90 gear oil from the pumpkin for assistance lubrication over time.  Whether it does or not, it is not a substitute for manual lube during periodic service (usually at tire changes).

Water can certainly hasten wear and tear, but it is not a prerequisite for it.

You want to be sure your Ujoint boot is not torn, and is on correctly on both ends, because that is where water will get down inside there.  

Had some abrupt growling noises along with a good shake when accelerating.  Sorry, but I found your handle of Clanky to be a bit humorous given the circumstances of your post.   

[sandy]

When you get your parts, lube them with a good moly wheel bearing grease. I don't rely on drive unit lube coming back up in the input cup. It shouldn't be packed full but coat all wear surfaces liberally. I use Valvoline durablend with moly. Don't forget the transmission end of the drive shaft.

[clanky]

Thanks for your inputs.  I was not seeking to blame Honda, in fact if it was dry from the get go I would think 115K would be rather exceptional.
I must admit this is the first time I've ever taken the rear tire off, and thus have not looked at the drive components.  I usually have a local mechanic do the tire swap out work.
Now that I've "been there done that" I will most definitely check the lube conditions every 10K.  Yes I did check the boot and it is very much in tact, no holes or tears and still quite pliable.
I was a little bit intimidated about doing the rear end work plus I did not have a lift until this past Friday so I could use that as my excuse for not doing the rear maintenance work.  Can't use that excuse anymore.
ChrisJ, your rear end Powerpoint procedure was very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to create it.
Again thanks for everyone's input!

[gordonv]

The u-joint can't be inspected by hand, it requires tools. A vise and some means of gripping the joint. Place one end in the vise, and using a pipe wrench or other large type channel lock/vise grip, apply a rotational force onto it. Looking for any movement in the universal joints.

As mentioned, rear should be lube ever tire change. That means maintenance/tire change should be approx. 10-15K miles. That is approx. the expected life of a MC tire. But if you are running the Darkside, a CT, then it's life is much longer, and the service needs doing every 10K miles.

[BobB]

I had the pinion cup failure while on the road in 2012.  Since then it has been checked and serviced every 8000 miles.  I pack it with marine grease, no longer relying on the lubercation method designed by Honda.  That has worked well for five years.  109k now on the odo.

In dealing with the universal, we recommend that you replace the rubber boot over the joint, even if it looks good.  The old boot is very difficult to reinstall over the swing arm, a new one is more pliable.  I can say this with experience...

[ValkStrom]

Thanks for your inputs.  I was not seeking to blame Honda, in fact if it was dry from the get go I would think 115K would be rather exceptional.
I must admit this is the first time I've ever taken the rear tire off, and thus have not looked at the drive components.  I usually have a local mechanic do the tire swap out work.
Now that I've "been there done that" I will most definitely check the lube conditions every 10K.  Yes I did check the boot and it is very much in tact, no holes or tears and still quite pliable.
I was a little bit intimidated about doing the rear end work plus I did not have a lift until this past Friday so I could use that as my excuse for not doing the rear maintenance work.  Can't use that excuse anymore.
ChrisJ, your rear end Powerpoint procedure was very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to create it.
Again thanks for everyone's input!

Where is this PDF you refer to located, I looked in shoptalk section and didn't see it?

Thanks!

[hubcapsc]

Rear End Service by ChrisJ over on the left hand side...

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

-Mike

[ValkStrom]

AWESOME.....thanks so much!!!