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Author Topic: Replace Clutch Slave Cylinder Question  (Read 1169 times)
winger27
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Posts: 11


« on: July 21, 2017, 05:21:11 AM »

I am replacing my clutch slave cylinder. I have it out waiting for the new one, does the lifter rod that sets in the Piston just pull out? It came out kinda easily there doesn't seem to be nothing else holding it in. Is that normal? Thanks
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SCain
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Posts: 620


Rio Rancho, NM


« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2017, 06:10:19 AM »

Normal, it should just slide out like you said. I just rebuilt one recently and I replaced the seal that the rod goes through and make sure to grease the cup before you put the new one in. Lube and fill the new slave with fresh fluid and make sure the piston moves free before installing.
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Steve
Tx_Nomad
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Posts: 2


Cleveland, Tx


« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2018, 06:23:55 AM »

I too have a slave cylinder question? Is there a specific banjo bolt washer that I need or will one from the parts house on the corner do? Also what size is it, I'd like to pick one up before I get into it?
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2018, 12:02:22 PM »

I'd like to know that too. The p/n for the washer is the same for all the bike's banjo bolts (90545-300-000) so knowing the size, I could buy the same washers for less than it's sold on Oem websites. When I re-did my clutch slave, I left the bleeder pipe bolted on the clutch slave, as is, becuz I had only new washers for the hydraulic line's banjo bolt (pic below). Had to slacken the nearby crankcase breather line, carb drain line, etc. in order to maneuver the filler pipe down. Anyways, it can be done that way and saves buying two more new washers. A forum member said that after not installing new washers, his clutch slave's hydraulic line leaked. Per manual, the bleeder pipe's banjo bolt, itself, only needs to be loosened, but I was unsure if that was enough to require new washers, so I didn't loosen it. I only had new washers for the hydraulic line's banjo bolt. The washers I ordered from the Oem parts website was made out of metal. I thought they were suppose to be copper or at least copper's better.


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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
WintrSol
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Posts: 1343


Florissant, MO


« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2018, 12:28:46 PM »

they may still be copper, just plated. If you still have the old ones, just file an edge. If copper, you can ease the work hardening by heating them to a red glow, then relatively slow cooling.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
Hook#3287
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Posts: 6436


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2018, 04:01:56 AM »

I'm not saying you you'll have the same results, but I've never replaced a banjo washer and have never had a leak.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2018, 04:11:26 AM »

I'm not saying you you'll have the same results, but I've never replaced a banjo washer and have never had a leak.
+1
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WintrSol
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Posts: 1343


Florissant, MO


« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2018, 09:22:19 AM »

I'm not saying you you'll have the same results, but I've never replaced a banjo washer and have never had a leak.
A lot depends on how much torque is applied to the bolt. A lot of it work hardens the copper, so it won't deform as well to make the next seal; just enough torque and the copper may remain flexible enough to use again.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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