Valk Carbs

[BD Bruce]

I bought my '97 tourer new and now have 97,800 miles on her. The only thing I've done to the carbs, is sync them at the manuals specified frequency. Some times I think I'm getting exhaust that smells like its running rich. Eventhough my spark plugs all have that normal light brown color to them. Do the carbs ever need "rebuilding" seals,diaphrams, jets etc. ? The bike still runs great, no popping, backfiring etc. Seems like my fuel consumption is the same as its always been. Should I have any concerns based on mileage and age?

[Dave Weaver]

As good as it seems to be running, I'd leave her alone.  I'm afraid you might change how she runs if you were just trying to do preventive maintenance.

[98valk]

I bought my '97 tourer new and now have 97,800 miles on her. The only thing I've done to the carbs, is sync them at the manuals specified frequency. Some times I think I'm getting exhaust that smells like its running rich. Eventhough my spark plugs all have that normal light brown color to them. Do the carbs ever need "rebuilding" seals,diaphrams, jets etc. ? The bike still runs great, no popping, backfiring etc. Seems like my fuel consumption is the same as its always been. Should I have any concerns based on mileage and age?

gas smell at idle?  colder temps now taking longer to warm up? checking plugs after what rpm? idle=idle mixture screws.
calf model, check charcoal canister.

[Patrick]

Sounds to me like your OK.. These monsters will start to stink if they are left idling for any period[like adjusting the carburetors],, its normal.. If this critter runs good,, go out and ride it..

[Pete]

With higher mileage carbs do tend to show some wear internally. In my experience they seem to get richer. You can often delay rebuilding the carbs for many miles be leaning out the settings. Although at some point you will run out of adjustment and need to just replace parts (jets, needles, etc). Thanks Petel

[Ricky-D]

With higher mileage carbs do tend to show some wear internally. In my experience they seem to get richer. You can often delay rebuilding the carbs for many miles be leaning out the settings. Although at some point you will run out of adjustment and need to just replace parts (jets, needles, etc). Thanks Petel

Pete, I'm not trying to be disagreeable here with what you say but: The only parts that will wear out are parts that move against another part. Wear would then be on the slide which is plastic/phenolic and the throttle shaft to which the butterfly is mounted. The metering parts (jets) are not really considered to be a part that wears since they are metering gasoline, a less dense fluid than water.

I feel that the higher mileage motors that seem to be running richer is due to the condition of the motor (compression) needing a richer fuel/air mixture to keep running as opposed to a better condition motor that can produce more from a lesser fuel/air mixture and is normally considered a more efficient condition.

***

[Pete]

Everyone is entitled to there opinion, the forgoing comments and the following are mine. My experience with carb-ed gas engines tells me that fluid thru brass does over time result in increased tolerances and that brass needles also show minor wear over thousand of miles. An engine that  vibrates more will accelerate needle wear(not necessarily a Valkyrie)l, due to the needle occasionally lightly contacting other carb parts. I have on more that a few high use engines seen and measured needles that were no longer tapered correctly, compared to a new one.  They did not get that way because "carb parts do not wear", although it may or may not be the issue the person actually has, they will need to check and make a determination. Thanks Pete.

OBTW I may not have many post at the site BUT I have been using and working on carb-ed gas engines since 1960 and have been riding, rebuilding and working on Honda opposed engines since 1975. I am not new to carbs, gas engines or motorcycles. If I have not seen it, experienced it, or fixed it, I will not say it. No insult taken or given, just the facts.

[Larry]

I have on more that a few high use engines seen and measured needles that were no longer tapered correctly, compared to a new one.  They did not get that way because "carb parts do not wear", although it may or may not be the issue the person actually has, they will need to check and make a determination. Thanks Pete.

Interesting, I really appreciate the experience that comes out on this board. I continue to learn more about my bike and for that matter, gain knowledge that I can apply to other situations as well. My friends bike has a bit of a gassy smell when he is riding in front of me at normal highway speed. His bike is running like a top though. His machine is not terrably high milage as yet. Don't know what his plugs look like. Mine on the other hand are a bit white and is not running real smooth to start with. I've done several sessions of good quality injector cleaner at less than 2500 RPM's for an hour or more, which had helped but still gets rough after a while again so I'm guessin pilots need help. I've got 90k plus on my IS and never any carb work other than balancing and never did that until 2 years ago! It runs like a top at 3500+.

[Pete]

Larry, just finished a complete removal and cleanup of a 1997 Valkyrie carbs. Symtoms were running a little rough from idle to 2500. Had run several tanks of gas with heavy cleaners (2 OZ per gallon) which helped but did not resolve the problem. Had also poured straight cleaner into the bowls and let it set for a couple of hours. Had flushed the carbs until the fuel came out clean. Used Sea Foam and Techron.

1 slow jet was completely stopped up,1 was impaired, 4 still needed minor cleaning. The main jets were also somewhat dirty. All bowls had residue in the bottoms.

Nothing is ever as effect as a tear down and complete cleaning. Based upon my experience.

Thanks and good luck, Pete.

[franco6]

thanks Pete for reinstating the fact that those cleaners are a waste of money ,and that they re just no majic potion .
the thear down -rebuild is the only fix!

[1fastbob]

thanks Pete for reinstating the fact that those cleaners are a waste of money ,and that they re just no majic potion .
the thear down -rebuild is the only fix!

I am starting to think you are correct.  I have ran a small fortune's worth of B12, Techron and Seafoam through my Interstate trying to resolve what I think is a carb issue and it has not helped one cursed bit.  Only made my wallet lighter.  If the compression test is good it is time to get up close and personal with the carbs again.  They are going to get dipped this time.

Bob

[98valk]

from recent reading it seams that the problems come from the cheap gas being out there now. Some parts of the gasoline will breakdown within 1-2 wks now whereas before it could take over 1yr.
fuel injected vehicles will run fine on it but carb vehicles will not always. I have have had to use sta-bil recently and the bike will run much smoother. Some tanks I don't have to use it.  just do a google search much info out there.

[Jess from VA]

Speaking of Stabil, has anyone seen they have a newer version of their product, aimed at the polutant in our  gas called ethonol?  Seafoam (also developed for marine applications) may be the better system cleaner, but for those of us who Winter store or ride much less often and long, this may be a good idea.

Thoughts?


http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/products.aspx
 
Marine Formula STA-BIL    (it's blue, not red)

America's #1 Selling Marine Fuel Additive Brand!
BEST Ethanol Problem Fighter
More than FOUR TIMES the Fuel System Cleaner than in Regular STA-BIL
DOUBLE the corrosion preventer than in Regular STA-BIL
Prevents corrosion from moisture & ethanol-induced water attraction
Improves marine engine performance YEAR-ROUND, not just for seasonal storage

[1fastbob]

from recent reading it seams that the problems come from the cheap gas being out there now. Some parts of the gasoline will breakdown within 1-2 wks now whereas before it could take over 1yr.
fuel injected vehicles will run fine on it but carb vehicles will not always. I have have had to use sta-bil recently and the bike will run much smoother. Some tanks I don't have to use it.  just do a google search much info out there.

I have had no issues now or in the past with gasoline.  Gasoline here is fine, even the 10% Ethanol stuff is okay.  Letting a bike sit for over 2 years is the problem NOT the gas.

[Pete]

Starting several years ago (even pre 90/10 fuel) gas changed from leaving a residue that carb cleaners like Gumout would clean up by generous spraying to leaving a HARD residue that seems to need dynamite to loosen. The one jet that was stopped up had to be soaked in strong carb cleaner for 30 minutes before it loosened enough to be blown out with carb cleaner. Nothing you can pour down a gas line would every loosen that type of harden residue.

Pulling and cleaning  the carbs is time consuming task but not difficult, just take you time and be clean and orderly. Have fun, it sure will run better later. Thanks Pete.

[John U.]

from recent reading it seams that the problems come from the cheap gas being out there now. Some parts of the gasoline will breakdown within 1-2 wks now whereas before it could take over 1yr.
fuel injected vehicles will run fine on it but carb vehicles will not always. I have have had to use sta-bil recently and the bike will run much smoother. Some tanks I don't have to use it.  just do a google search much info out there.

I have had no issues now or in the past with gasoline.  Gasoline here is fine, even the 10% Ethanol stuff is okay.  Letting a bike sit for over 2 years is the problem NOT the gas.

I too have had problems with a bike that sat for a long time. In my case the tank was not full during that time. The result was the jets were clogged with rust from the tank, Seafoam or Techron won't fix that. Get a mirror and small flashlight and check the condition of your tank.
Mine was so bad it needed cleaning and coating. I used epoxy, though there are a number of products out there.