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Author Topic: Digi Sync Users - Question on Tach  (Read 2171 times)
Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« on: July 26, 2017, 02:22:33 PM »

So I got a Digi Sync recently and finally got a chance to use it today. It worked fine, but one thing I noticed right away is that the tach on the Digi Sync read 200 to 300rpm or so (by eye) higher than the Tach on the Valk. Which one is more accurate?
« Last Edit: July 26, 2017, 02:35:52 PM by Harryc » Logged

The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2017, 03:45:31 PM »

As I understood it, the DigiSynch was more accurate. I think it calculates it based on vacuum pulses. Pretty easy to use, wasn't it ?  cooldude
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2017, 04:46:36 PM »

As I understood it, the DigiSynch was more accurate. I think it calculates it based on vacuum pulses. Pretty easy to use, wasn't it ?  cooldude

It was awesome my friend. The bike runs much smother. A bit more power and another plus that is more subtle and only detected by ear. Before when I shifted up and gradually applied throttle I could hear individual carbs/cylinders kick in/fire first. That phenomena is gone.
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oldsmokey
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Mendon Massachusetts


« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2017, 05:24:58 PM »

Mine was recently purchased and matches very very close to the bike tach.
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2017, 05:43:10 PM »

Mine was recently purchased and matches very very close to the bike tach.

That's interesting. I wonder what I should be looking into? The bike is a Tourer that was recently Redeye Shiny kit desmog'd. Cutoff valves or lines on the carbs? New/replacement Digi Sync? I can't imagine I have a vacuum leak elsewhere, but I did not check the cutoff valves or replace those lines. Carbs were recently rebuilt as well.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2017, 06:08:06 PM by Harryc » Logged

Steel cowboy
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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2017, 06:46:15 PM »

Harry how young are the o rings between the manifold's and the heads.
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2017, 06:47:17 PM »

Harry how young are the o rings between the manifold's and the heads.

Thanks for the reply. They are brand new within the last 6 months.  I may be chasing a shadow here, the bike runs great, but I paid good money for the Digi Sync so I'd like to know why it may not be matching the bikes RPMs.  Anyone with a Digi Sync willing to test it? I'll pay postage both ways and buy you a beer next time we meet. Wink That or I'll just go back to the seller and ask for the same...maybe that's the best idea.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2017, 06:57:05 PM by Harryc » Logged

sdv003
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Prescott Valley, AZ


« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2017, 08:13:55 PM »

I had the same phenomenon.  Digisync showed 900 rpm, tach was 700 or so.  Idles very nicely at that speed, so I didnt see a reason to go any farther with it.
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oldsmokey
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Mendon Massachusetts


« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2017, 02:17:43 AM »

Might want to compare with a wired or wireless digital tach. When I say it was close, according to memory , it was +- 25 to bikes tach. Did not compare to a third source.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 02:21:14 AM by oldsmokey » Logged
Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2017, 03:36:59 AM »

I had the same phenomenon.  Digisync showed 900 rpm, tach was 700 or so.  Idles very nicely at that speed, so I didnt see a reason to go any farther with it.

Thanks, same here. Idles and runs great.  @oldsmokey, good idea and I do have an old wired Tach I might fool around with.  Meanwhile I did email the seller so we'll see if he has any suggestions.
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2017, 04:38:28 AM »

Harry, I don't remember it being an issue, so I guessing my was DigiSync was close to the OEM tach.

As I'm sure you know, that doesn't affect the DigiSyncs accuracy.

BonS is a good guy and I'll bet he'll do what he can to help you out.
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2017, 04:48:17 AM »

Thanks Bill. So I took a look around and what I have on hand is an old Sears Engine Analyzer with a tachometer. It has (3) connections, (2) for the battery and (1) for a coil connection. It has 4, 6, and 8 cylinder settings. Is this something I could use on the Valk and if so where do I hook the coil input to get a signal?
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #12 on: July 27, 2017, 05:00:39 AM »

Thanks Bill. So I took a look around and what I have on hand is an old Sears Engine Analyzer with a tachometer. It has (3) connections, (2) for the battery and (1) for a coil connection. It has 4, 6, and 8 cylinder settings. Is this something I could use on the Valk and if so where do I hook the coil input to get a signal?
You're asking above my pay grade, but, I believe the coils fire both spark plugs they are attached to at the same time.  So the answer is a 3 cylinder? uglystupid2

I definitely could be wrong on this, me and electrical stuff never got along. Roll Eyes
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #13 on: July 27, 2017, 06:47:50 AM »

Thanks. I did hear back from Bon S and he doubts the Digi Sync is defective but will work with me. Meanwhile he did say the Digi sync doesn't care if you have one or six channels hooked up to display the correct RPM. I may try just one channel and try it at a few carbs to see if the issue is related to just one carb.
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indybobm
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« Reply #14 on: July 27, 2017, 07:44:20 AM »

Ok, now I'm curious. If it does not care if you have one or six hooked up, what is it monitoring to compute the RPM? By the way, I have an early Digi-Sync that I sent back to Bon to have the tach function added. has always worked perfectly. The tach is correct also.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 07:46:42 AM by indybobm » Logged

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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #15 on: July 27, 2017, 07:48:18 AM »

Ok, now I'm curious. If it does not care if you have one or six hooked up, what is it monitoring to compute the RPM? By the way, I have an early Digi-Sync that I sent back to Bon to have the tach function added. has always worked perfectly. The tach is correct also.

My understanding is it monitors vacuum pulses. Here's what he said "It doesn't matter to the Digi Sync how many channels are in use so you might just try one channel and see if there's any difference. Just a thought as I don't expect any different result." If you think about it this makes sense because the Digi Sync can also be used to sync (2) carb bikes with (4) unused channels, or (4) carb bikes with (2) unused channels, etc. So it knows how many channels are hooked up, but I have no idea what algorithm it uses to calculate rpm from them if that is what you are asking. I'm guessing Bon S might know but I did not ask. A good guess might be it counts the pulses p/second from each active channel, averages them, then uses an Algorithm to convert that number to rpm. A good question in general might be if that is the case, is it possible to have one or 2 carbs not pulse the same as the others thus throwing off the calculation. I don't know enough about the internal workings of the Valk intake system to answer that either. Seems to me a vacuum leak can do that but I am not sure. Would it throw off the pulse count or just make the vacuum pulses weaker in inches of mercury.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 08:07:41 AM by Harryc » Logged

indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #16 on: July 27, 2017, 07:55:27 AM »

So it only monitors one channel and ignores the rest, no matter which one is connected.
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Zer
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Park Ridge, IL


« Reply #17 on: July 27, 2017, 07:55:55 AM »

I had the same issue with the bike tach reading differently from the Digisync.  I put an old wired tach on to double check and it matched the digisync - not the tach on the bike.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #18 on: July 27, 2017, 08:14:44 AM »

I suspect the bikes tach is not as accurate because it is taking electrical impulses and converting them into a mechanical dial. The DigiSync takes the vacuum pulses and displays them digitally. As an aside Harry, when you get done with your DigiSync I recommend removing the 9 volt battery and putting it separate in case of leakage.
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WintrSol
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Florissant, MO


« Reply #19 on: July 27, 2017, 08:18:06 AM »

So it only monitors one channel and ignores the rest, no matter which one is connected.
I don't know if it picks the channel with the best signal, or goes down the channels, in order, until it finds pulses to count; which method could affect the results. I do know that, if the pulses are marginal in strength, it will give poor results. I added some 'shade tree' vacuum ports to my old CB450, and got some fairly random readings in both rpm and vacuum; back to the dial gauges for that bike.

What I'm saying is, if it goes down the channels in order, and the one it picks first has vacuum issues, like one that is shared with the petcock, it could be less than accurate. Hooked up directly to the ports, with no kinks in the lines, it perfectly matches my hand-held digital tach.
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #20 on: July 27, 2017, 08:55:21 AM »

I had the same issue with the bike tach reading differently from the Digisync.  I put an old wired tach on to double check and it matched the digisync - not the tach on the bike.

How did you hook up the 'old wired tach'? Smiley
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Pete
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« Reply #21 on: July 27, 2017, 10:09:54 AM »

Thanks Bill. So I took a look around and what I have on hand is an old Sears Engine Analyzer with a tachometer. It has (3) connections, (2) for the battery and (1) for a coil connection. It has 4, 6, and 8 cylinder settings. Is this something I could use on the Valk and if so where do I hook the coil input to get a signal?
The coil pickup is monitoring sparks from a single coil. That is why it needs to know cylinders.
Keep in mind that a 8 cylinder actually fires only 4 plugs per revolution, 3 for a 6 cylinder and 2 for a 4 cylinder. Auto ignitions generally do not fire every plug ever revolution, only every plug in 2 revolutions.

The Valkyrie is different it is a 6 cylinder, but from a coil perspective it is really 3 2 cylinders engines (3 coils each firing 2 cylinders) and the coil fires every revolution.

So in two revolutions a Valkyrie fires 2 times thru a coil. (Ignore the fact that it fires 2 plugs at the same time, it is just 1 firing).

So you need a setting for 2 cylinder, which you do not have.

But if you set the tach to 4 cylinder the tack may read 1/2 actual as it will read 4 firings for 4 revolutions rather that 4 firings in 2 revolutions.

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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #22 on: July 27, 2017, 10:30:05 AM »

Thanks Bill. So I took a look around and what I have on hand is an old Sears Engine Analyzer with a tachometer. It has (3) connections, (2) for the battery and (1) for a coil connection. It has 4, 6, and 8 cylinder settings. Is this something I could use on the Valk and if so where do I hook the coil input to get a signal?
The coil pickup is monitoring sparks from a single coil. That is why it needs to know cylinders.
Keep in mind that a 8 cylinder actually fires only 4 plugs per revolution, 3 for a 6 cylinder and 2 for a 4 cylinder. Auto ignitions generally do not fire every plug ever revolution, only every plug in 2 revolutions.

The Valkyrie is different it is a 6 cylinder, but from a coil perspective it is really 3 2 cylinders engines (3 coils each firing 2 cylinders) and the coil fires every revolution.

So in two revolutions a Valkyrie fires 2 times thru a coil. (Ignore the fact that it fires 2 plugs at the same time, it is just 1 firing).

So you need a setting for 2 cylinder, which you do not have.

But if you set the tach to 4 cylinder the tack may read 1/2 actual as it will read 4 firings for 4 revolutions rather that 4 firings in 2 revolutions.



Thanks Pete, I am following what you said. So to hook up my single coil input old style tach, would I just pick one of the coil packs and hook to one of the yellow/other color wires or should I remove the headlight and hook to the bikes tach signal wire? I am guessing coil input wire from the ICM (at a coil pack) which is yellow and another color depending on the coil pack. Multiplying the reading x2 would not be a problem for this test...this tach has fairly fine increments.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 10:36:25 AM by Harryc » Logged

Zer
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Park Ridge, IL


« Reply #23 on: July 27, 2017, 12:03:04 PM »

I had the same issue with the bike tach reading differently from the Digisync.  I put an old wired tach on to double check and it matched the digisync - not the tach on the bike.

How did you hook up the 'old wired tach'? Smiley


My tach tied into the battery and then had the clip that attaches around the spark plug wire.
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #24 on: July 27, 2017, 12:36:49 PM »

I had the same issue with the bike tach reading differently from the Digisync.  I put an old wired tach on to double check and it matched the digisync - not the tach on the bike.

How did you hook up the 'old wired tach'? Smiley


My tach tied into the battery and then had the clip that attaches around the spark plug wire.

Thanks. So I am the third person who can confirm the bikes tach is inaccurate. I hooked the old tach to a coil input wire and set it up like Pete said. He was absolutely correct. Set it on the 4 cyl setting it halved the rpm and matched the Digi Sync perfectly. So the final verdict in my case is the Digi Sync is accurate and the bikes tach is off by 200rpm (again by eye). I'm leaving idle speed set by the Digi Sync and my old Tach. I did try different intake ports with the Digi Sync by the way, no difference so Bon S was right too.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 12:54:01 PM by Harryc » Logged

Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #25 on: July 27, 2017, 12:44:23 PM »

Harry, when you get done with your DigiSync I recommend removing the 9 volt battery and putting it separate in case of leakage.

Will do, thanks again!
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Leathel
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New Zealand


« Reply #26 on: July 27, 2017, 01:15:18 PM »

What are the Digi Sync's worth and where do you get them.... When I am done with the carbs I will have a need for one Smiley
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98valk
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« Reply #27 on: July 27, 2017, 01:17:47 PM »

is this the std/tourer tach or I/S tach?  I tend to remember I/S tach was know to be off compared to std/t as posted by various owners.
My digiS showed exactly same as my std tach.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2017, 01:49:05 PM by 98valk (aka CA) » Logged

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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #28 on: July 27, 2017, 01:30:26 PM »

is this the std/tourer tach or I/S tach?  I tend to remember I/S tach was know to be off compared to std/t as posted my various owners.
My digiS showed exactly same as my std tach.

I have a Tourer, not sure what the others have.
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #29 on: July 27, 2017, 01:31:33 PM »

What are the Digi Sync's worth and where do you get them.... When I am done with the carbs I will have a need for one Smiley


Hey Leathel, here's the link - http://www.thedigisync.com/
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Leathel
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New Zealand


« Reply #30 on: July 27, 2017, 03:34:07 PM »

What are the Digi Sync's worth and where do you get them.... When I am done with the carbs I will have a need for one Smiley


Hey Leathel, here's the link - http://www.thedigisync.com/


cheers, will look in to it Smiley
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sdv003
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Prescott Valley, AZ


« Reply #31 on: July 28, 2017, 11:33:56 AM »

is this the std/tourer tach or I/S tach?

Mine is a 98 Tourer
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #32 on: July 28, 2017, 01:28:26 PM »

is this the std/tourer tach or I/S tach?

Mine is a 98 Tourer


Answered the same question above, but mine is a '97 Tourer. I am not sure what bikes the other (2) folks who reported inaccurate stock Tachs ride.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2017, 02:27:20 PM by Harryc » Logged

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