3k mile update, high speed power loss, fuel economy, battery choice. More inside

[Hyde]

Alright guys, I've had my Valk for a month and 3,000 miles so far. Shes a pretty incredible machine. Have a few questions that since I have never owned a Valk before I don't know if they are normal occurrences or not though.

First what I have done:
The bike had a Taxi tire on when I got it
Aftermarket petcock with electric shutoff solenoid inline, also from previous owner.
I did the ECT mod with a pot, Ive left it set in the middle
Added a batwing fairing with stereo

Winter plans:
Glasspack mod with truck stacks, possibly needles and I/S carb springs


So first thing, the bike has trouble at high speeds and just isnt as fast as I thought it might be. A lot of people say they will eat a 96ci harley for breakfast. Not the case, my buddys 96ci hangs right with me until about 90 when he comes around me, pretty even with another friends VTX 1800, and get blown away buy my skinny roommate on an ST1100. (all on a closed course) it will struggle to get above 105mph. I've heard many people say they will do well above this, it was the same before the batwing. My first thought was a plugged fuel filter, after a quick search I learned that these bikes don't come equipped with one and the addition of one can cause high speed fuel starvation. I looked and an inline had been added so I removed it, no change. It feels like possible fuel starvation still, it will surge a bit when I start to roll out at high speed which says its leaning out to me. Is there anything common I should look for?

Next, fuel mileage. This isnt any fault of the bike more my riding style, in town mileage improved greatly with the ECT mod but my highway riding often land above the 3500rpm cutoff of the ECT mod (see skinny guy on ST1100 above who typically leads the pack) I have seen a best of 35.5mpg on more relaxed roads but typical mileage is high 20s, is there anything that might help mileage at higher speeds other than slowing down? Or should I be looking into a belly tank.

Last, whats everyone recommendation for a battery, mine looks like it might even be factory, it has been cranking extremely slow on the chillier mornings so its time.

Threads are worthless without pics, heres how she currently sits

[slythern12]

You're fuel economy is about what I get and I'm a pretty mellow rider so i would guess to be pretty much on par. As for the rest of it i'm not sure and would like the information on batteries also.

[DeathWishBikerDude]

Valve adjustment.Big difference when adjusted properly.Bike winds up to the end of the speedo.When you crack the throttle,no hesitation...none.
Expect 30 mpg if you ride sanely...wide open..maybe 25 mpg.
Biggest expense owning a valk...fuel.Well worth the fuel cost.

[Blackduck]

What year is it?
Has anything been done to the carb's?
These normally run rich in the high rev range, part of Honda's design of the airbox.
May pay to do a high speed run, shut the engine off and coast to a stop then inspect the plugs.
Black/dark rich, white or light lean.
Cheers Steve

[SirLancelot]

Suggest you take a look at the air filter.
Regards
SirL

[hubcapsc]

Suggest you take a look at the air filter.
Regards
SirL

And keep looking at fuel. Maybe check or rebuild your
petcock, there's a simple test here:

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/petcock.htm

Since you had to remove an in-line filter, the condition
of your gas line needs to be checked, if it is not returned
to "pretty much like OEM" there might be a flow problem.

-Mike

[Hyde]

It is a 1999, to my knowledge the carbs are stock, the bike had 12k miles when I got it. I had worries about it actually being 112k but the previous owner seemed like an honest guy and I see no indication of extreme miles.

As far as the air filter I checked it when I had the tank off, it is clean and factory Honda.

The petcock is aftermarket, and there is an electric shutoff solenoid in-line so returning to exactly stock fuel line setup is not realistic. I like the insurance of the shutoff solenoid. I made sure the line was not kinked or anything when the tank went back on.

I will look in to running the valves, easy enough on a flat engine.

[Savago]

12K miles? That is not enough to unset the valves in a Honda engine (specially a valkyrie engine).

If you are lacking power, I would instead have a look in syncing the carbs. Maybe someone near you got a DigiSync and could help.

Then inspect for vacuum leaks.

[Blackduck]

With that few miles you really need to run some carb cleaner through the system, it's a wonder it is not playing up at lower revs.
Cheers Steve

[sandy]

I had worries about it actually being 112k but the previous owner seemed like an honest guy and I see no indication of extreme miles.

Look at the fork lowers. If their condition is good, the mileage is correct. If they're pitted and the clearcoat is peeling and cracking, it's probably over 100K.

[Hook#3287]

I had worries about it actually being 112k but the previous owner seemed like an honest guy and I see no indication of extreme miles.

Look at the fork lowers. If their condition is good, the mileage is correct. If they're pitted and the clearcoat is peeling and cracking, it's probably over 100K.

  That's a good way.  I do the "look behind the water pipe that goes in front of the timing belt cover" trick. 

If it's shinier there, probably over 100K.

[JimC]

I would see what fuel shut off the PO put in there. If it is a Dammark, there are numerous different orifice sizes, and, or inlet outlet opening sizes. I have been looking at them myself, and I can see where most would work, but some are so restrictive I have doubts about whether they will work properly at the upper RPM ranges.

The PO may have just bought the first one he saw without thinking about fuel starvation. 

Jim

[Hyde]

Thanks for the replys guys. The forks are in good shape, it's a well taken care of bike, I just don't think it was ridden hard the way I do so fuel starvation was probably never noticed. I will take a look at the shut-off once it cools off a bit outside.

[Paladin528]

the recommended Dan-Marc fuel valve only has a .125 orifice.  significantly smaller than the 5/16 fuel line.  when running at high speed, especially with less than a half tank of gas, you will starve the carbs of fuel because the flow cannot keep up with the fuel being used.  The higher the RPM the faster this happens.  at 85MPH this happens to me in about an hour maybe less.  if I go faster it happens sooner.
There is another valve with a larger orifice that you can use that will eliminate this problem.

[John Schmidt]

Your mileage is much too low, the bike in the picture you see with my post gives me in the mid-upper 30's on the open highway all day long. I've never had anything lower than 32-33mpg even with intown riding. I have a DanMarc shutoff and an inline fuel filter and I'll bust triple digits with ease any day of the week, there is no starvation if done right.....which most aren't. If 12k miles is true mileage, my first thoughts would be to go through the carbs, they're probably not running at their peak from sitting so much since 1999. As for going against your bud's 96ci HD, that should be no contest from 0-whatever speed you want. If he can almost stay with the VTX, it's not stock to begin with so don't feel real bad.  Re. the VTX1800 and the 1100, don't bother unless you make a bobber out of your bike to lose the weight.

Final analysis.....you need to spend some time and $$ on yours 'cuz it's not right. I wouldn't bother with the valves at 12k miles unless it turns out to be 112k. Check the air filter, make sure the fuel line is running downhill from the petcock, check your spark plugs to see if they're running rich. Then go from there.

[DeathWishBikerDude]

12 k mileage is the valve adjustment interval.I know I sound like a broken record,but I did my first adjustment at 12k and noticed a huge difference..ever since then I adjust mine every 12k.

[Valkpilot]

12 k mileage is the valve adjustment interval.I know I sound like a broken record,but I did my first adjustment at 12k and noticed a huge difference..ever since then I adjust mine every 12k.

How much were they out of spec?

Valve adjustment needs are rarely documented here while carb problems, solved through cleaning and jet replacement without touching the valves, are very common.

In this case, I suspect the others are right.  There's a minor fuel starvation issue caused by length of fuel line, extras in the fuel line, or carb gunk.

Vacuum leaks could also be part of the problem.  The rubber components are not likely to have been replaced since the bike hasn't been ridden much and will have aged.  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,95448.0.html

Valve adjustment might be the icing on the cake, once the other issues are resolved.

[old2soon]

Up til now no one has mentioned trigger wheel. I seem to recollect when they were being discussed with some frequency here that they are helpful in the grunt range then they tend to fall off at speed. I have a 99 I/S that is stock valves haven't been touched and had over a 100000 miles on the clock last year going to Morgantown W V pulling a fairly heavily loaded trailer and getting into the high 20s low 30 pulling the trailer. Sensible cruising-a word this old guy not really familiar with-gets me into the mid 30s. Gal I was seeing couple years ago enjoyed smellin the roses. One of our rides returned right at 38 M P G. I have dipped into the teens running triple digits fer a good spell. I can bust 120 MPH indicated at will. See if some one in your area-AFTER the carbs are cleaned up-has a digisync. You can thank me After it's digisynced. RIDE SAFE.

[John Schmidt]

I agree with O2S re. valve adjustment. I checked mine at 12k and again at 24k....waste of time, haven't bothered with them since.

[DeathWishBikerDude]

Petcock issue? I had hydro lock and replaced mine with a pinged.Come to think of it,I think you solved my problem..Thanks.

[Hyde]

Update, new issue, and found a problem all at the same time!

Bike started leaking fuel I think this morning, caught a whiff of gas when I started this morning, actaully had the state of mind to take a look when I smelt it again leaving work. Sure enough leaking, rode home, looked like the supply line to the right bank of carbs wasnt quite on all the way. Got it pushed on, made she the little "clamp" was in place, key on, still pouring fuel. Looking closer Im fairly sure its the orings on the tube between the carbs. When I bought the bike the gentleman informed me that it always leaked there when he first filled it back up in the spring then would stop. Now they've apparently had enough. Not surprising on a bike that did a lot of sitting.

Next! The problem thats been there all along, While I had the tank up I noticed the intake boot on right rear carb was loose! Checked the rest, the whole left bank was also loose with one not even on the carb neck! Not good for making power with CV carbs.

Will give an update once I pull the carbs off and fix my fuel leak

[Hyde]

Has anyone used this kit that can vouch for it? I'm used to trying to find obsolete parts for my gl1000 and $15 seems almost too cheap!

http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/6738361/carb-fuel-rail-leak-kit

[Blackduck]

Loose boots and one off will really make it run like crap.
You will enjoy once it is back together.
Cheers Steve

[Willow]

Has anyone used this kit that can vouch for it? I'm used to trying to find obsolete parts for my gl1000 and $15 seems almost too cheap!

http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/6738361/carb-fuel-rail-leak-kit

Rich is good folks.  What he provides as replacements are better quality than the original OEM tubes and O-rings.

I'm sure he would let you pay more if it would make you feel better.   

[The emperor has no clothes]

Has anyone used this kit that can vouch for it? I'm used to trying to find obsolete parts for my gl1000 and $15 seems almost too cheap!

http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/6738361/carb-fuel-rail-leak-kit

Rich is good folks.  What he provides as replacements are better quality than the original OEM tubes and O-rings.

I'm sure he would let you pay more if it would make you feel better.   

[Gideon]

As far as batteries, I replaced my battery with a Duracell Ultra- Duragm-14 (Seald & Maintenance Free) from Battery Plus. It has higher cranking amps and is cheaper than stock YUSA ( YTX14-BS) battery. 

[Hyde]

Parts got here extremely fast, ordered them Thursday night I think and they got here this morning. Went ahead and pulled the rack out and swapped everything in, just got it buttoned back up. There were some part that were a pain but actually not as bad as I thought it would be. Ride report soon!

Edit: also found out my bike has been de-smogged 

[Hyde]

Well the boots being on seems to have fixed it! Was still pulling hard well into triple digits, backed out because it was windy and the big fairing was starting to wobble. Thanks for all the help everyone!!

[Hyde]

Old bikes are a patience building experience, starter solenoid puked this morning.