Help-Interstate radio

[Avanti]

1999 Interstate radio system flashes, cutting in and out several times on dash cluster when turned on. Once it is on radio seems to operate normal until head light high low beam switch is operated which will cause it to cut out and have to go through cutting in and out several times before again staying on. I have checked all connections that I can think of. Opened and cleaned all switches on handle bars. Charging system vitals, new YUASA YTX14-BS battery at rest 12.75 volts, engine running at idle 12.95 volts, engine at 850 rpm and above 13.9 volts. Battery grounded to engine and frame. All other electrical systems work as should including, all lights front and rear and turn signal indicators in dash cluster. All radio control buttons on handlebar are all working.
Pulled all fuses except radio backup fuse and still reacts the same. Pull each fuse one at a time reacts the same as fuse is uninstalled and when fuse is reinstalled. Moved radio around to see if it might be a bad wire going into the radio itself but his does not seem to cause any problems.
It looks like the radio power is initiated by a relay through a diode from the ignition switch. In on position or accessory position the problem still exists.
This has increasingly gotten worse. Not sure if this is a radio problem, connection problem, cluster problem or a combination.

So need some help, not sure were to look next.

You just have to love electrical problems.

[Sempai]

Mine is completely out: when I start the engine all icons are visibles on the dash boatd but after the engine is running I only have time displayed and I can't eiter adjust time or play the radio with the controller on the handlebar. It started by a tome to time isdue but now the problem is permanent. I checked the cpntrollet itsrls for humidity or corrosion and everything is fine. I went throug with the connection to the main harness and I found white powder on the main harness side, the pins on the controller side are clean. Is there a way to easily fix that? I don't want to change all the main harness to get the radio back...

[Jess from VA]

There has never been much discussion on IS radios on here, but they do go out or bad from time to time.  Of course, wiring, fuses, switches, and radio settings must be checked, but I think some radios just conk out.  Mine haven't (and I have a spare in case one does).

[gordonv]

I recall most issues have been the wiring/connectors. I feel yours might be the hidden connector/jumper in the IS main wire harness.

Have you been through water lately?

My bike did it, while riding in the rain, but in my case it was the neutral light coming on. I believe this means a tear down to get to the wire harness under the battery.

[Avanti]

I recall most issues have been the wiring/connectors. I feel yours might be the hidden connector/jumper in the IS main wire harness.

Have you been through water lately?

My bike did it, while riding in the rain, but in my case it was the neutral light coming on. I believe this means a tear down to get to the wire harness under the battery.

Not familiar with the hidden connector. Is this wrapped in and enclosed within the harness or visible? I have the complete wire schismatics and have looked but do not see what connector you are talking about. My be I will  just have to go digging.

[Sempai]

I recall most issues have been the wiring/connectors. I feel yours might be the hidden connector/jumper in the IS main wire harness.

Have you been through water lately?

My bike did it, while riding in the rain, but in my case it was the neutral light coming on. I believe this means a tear down to get to the wire harness under the battery.

Do you mean the connector to the radio itself? Or another connector in the main harness?

[Hook#3287]

Buy some Cobra 6x6's and you won't care about the radio 

Just kidding.  Being a wise a$$.

I feel your pain, electrical issues suck and tracking them down requires great patience.

Hope you sort it out.  Remember to post back if you do.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Underneath the right side cover in a plastic boot, you'll find a big green connector block. That connector routes the various voltages to the dash, radio controls and whatnot.

The contacts inside are supposed to be waterproof. But they aren't, and will quickly oxidize if they become wet for an extended period of time.

Remove the negative cables from the battery then take the connector apart (it's a press-lock type) and look for signs of corrosion. Use an electrical contact cleaner to thoroughly flush any contaminants from the terminal pins and connector body. If patina is heavy, use a Q-tip or toothpick to clean the contacts. No metallic tools here!

When done, blow the connector blocks dry with an air hose. Reassemble and reconnect the negative terminal. Verify radio/dash operation. If all appears functional, redo the disassembly process and apply a small amount of dielectric grease to each of the terminal pins then reassemble connector, attach negative cable and  check functionality.

One of my I/Ses and several others I'm personally aware of have exhibited the problem and this is how I fixed it. The other fix is to not get the bike wet. 

[gordonv]

I have not looked for it yet, I thought it was under the battery box. I hope it is like the above post, and off the right side cover.

With pictures lost, we need a lot of new posts with pictures replacing the older ones. I thought it was hidden under wrap. I recall it being a jumper block, not actually a male/female type connector. The male cover jumps wires. Some have cut the wires and soldered the proper ones together. No more block, no more problems.

[Novavalker]

If anyone wants the Splice block fix document...send me a PM with your email. Soundude contacted me a few weeks ago and I sent him the document.
His his radio/display works now.

[Avanti]

If anyone wants the Splice block fix document...send me a PM with your email. Soundude contacted me a few weeks ago and I sent him the document.
His his radio/display works now.

Everybody has a secret, even Honda. I will check this out. I travel quite often, so rain is always in my forecast. After 18 years of weather this Splice Block needs to be checked out.

Thank you

[Avanti]

I checked out the Splice block which I found to be in perfect condition. So sense I was deep into the electrical wiring, I checked all connections. Still no answers. I believe the radio is working properly, maybe the combination meter needs a look see. Going to need to do some serious testing. When I figure this out I will post my results.

This is going to talk a while.   

[Bagger John - #3785]

I checked out the Splice block which I found to be in perfect condition. So sense I was deep into the electrical wiring, I checked all connections. Still no answers. I believe the radio is working properly, maybe the combination meter needs a look see. Going to need to do some serious testing. When I figure this out I will post my results.

This is going to talk a while.   

Next step:

Take the fairing off the bike and check out the connector which interfaces to the dash unit.

[Avanti]

OK, finely found the answer to my problem. After checking all connections I moved on to voltage and load testing.  Check all components as per the manual, radio and combination meter - power, grounds, voltage, diode, relay. All components checked out OK as per manual.

After much thought I decided to load check the relay, it did not pass. I have not cut the relay open, but I believe that I would fined burnt points causing a week transfer. So a new relay was put in its place and problem solved.

Simple fix after troubleshoot and locating the problem! 

[The emperor has no clothes]

OK, finely found the answer to my problem. After checking all connections I moved on to voltage and load testing.  Check all components as per the manual, radio and combination meter - power, grounds, voltage, diode, relay. All components checked out OK as per manual.

After much thought I decided to load check the relay, it did not pass. I have not cut the relay open, but I believe that I would fined burnt points causing a week transfer. So a new relay was put in its place and problem solved.

Simple fix after troubleshoot and locating the problem! 

Thanks for sharing the fix 

[old2soon]

And if you run into starting problems on the I/S look into the Red 9 pin connector inside the fairing on the right side from the seated position on the M/C. Go on ahead and ask me How I know dat! Lets just say I have a great Brother who took time off from his "stuff" to roll a bit over 500 miles to check out my I/S starting issues. Glad you found and fixed yer radio problem.  Thanks for posting the fix!  RIDE SAFE.

[dancnman]

Just want to add my 2 cents. On my other Interstate, my radio and display went wonky. Finally found out that the wiring that went inside the radio had gotten a bad connection inside. When I would wiggle them, sometimes it would work. took the radio apart and was not smart enough to fix it. Solved it with another radio.

[Ramie]

OK, finely found the answer to my problem. After checking all connections I moved on to voltage and load testing.  Check all components as per the manual, radio and combination meter - power, grounds, voltage, diode, relay. All components checked out OK as per manual.

After much thought I decided to load check the relay, it did not pass. I have not cut the relay open, but I believe that I would fined burnt points causing a week transfer. So a new relay was put in its place and problem solved.

Simple fix after troubleshoot and locating the problem! 

Good find, it doesn't happen very often but sometimes when the relay coil or connection starts to go bad the amount of current to hold the relay contacts changes and if the circuit doesn't have enough current the relay can drop out then engage again.

[Novavalker]

OK, finely found the answer to my problem. After checking all connections I moved on to voltage and load testing.  Check all components as per the manual, radio and combination meter - power, grounds, voltage, diode, relay. All components checked out OK as per manual.

After much thought I decided to load check the relay, it did not pass. I have not cut the relay open, but I believe that I would fined burnt points causing a week transfer. So a new relay was put in its place and problem solved.

Simple fix after troubleshoot and locating the problem! 

Could you post a picture of the relay/location? It might help others in the future.

[Avanti]

Good find, it doesn't happen very often but sometimes when the relay coil or connection starts to go bad the amount of current to hold the relay contacts changes and if the circuit doesn't have enough current the relay can drop out then engage again.


Yes, another symptom was radio would drop out momentarily when switching from Low to High beam which also caused head set communication interruption since it is controlled by the radio.

Could you post a picture of the relay/location? It might help others in the future.


Relays are located under left side cover behind the radiator overflow reservoir.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Good find, it doesn't happen very often but sometimes when the relay coil or connection starts to go bad the amount of current to hold the relay contacts changes and if the circuit doesn't have enough current the relay can drop out then engage again.


Yes, another symptom was radio would drop out momentarily when switching from Low to High beam which also caused head set communication interruption since it is controlled by the radio.

Could you post a picture of the relay/location? It might help others in the future.


Relays are located under left side cover behind the radiator overflow reservoir.

How do you check the relays ? I always figured if they were suspect, you'd have to use a new one to know.