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Author Topic: FIXED. Ham fist strikes again . Stuck brake fluid cap hex head screw.  (Read 2024 times)
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Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« on: September 23, 2017, 07:14:43 AM »

Last time I bled the front brakes I over tightened one of the reservoir cap hex head bolts. Ya know the ones with the small frickin head.

Well I've tried an easy out HA-HA and now have a perfectly formed round hole where they used to be a six sided hole.

Suggestions or maybe someone one can help me out at the FCR?
« Last Edit: September 26, 2017, 07:46:25 AM by Britman » Logged
Blackduck
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Posts: 642


West Australia


« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2017, 07:19:21 AM »

If you have a small Allen Key that will just not quite fit into the hole drive it in with a hammer and then undo the screw.
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2017, 07:27:12 AM »

If you have a small Allen Key that will just not quite fit into the hole drive it in with a hammer and then undo the screw.

Tried that and nearly broke the fluid reservoir off the handlebar  Shocked
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14769


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2017, 07:31:53 AM »

Whenever trying to remove these screws, several light taps on the driver with a small hammer REALLY helps.

I would use a center punch that fits into the hole and give it a few taps.  Then drill a tiny shallow hole near the perimeter of the screw head.  That hole is to be a "footing" for the center punch to tap the screw in the correct direction.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2017, 07:38:55 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
Firefight100
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Posts: 116

Usa


« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2017, 05:33:31 PM »

This is what you need.  https://the-original-rescue-bit.myshopify.com/
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indybobm
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2017, 07:33:55 PM »

Might try the Screw Extractor Set from Harbor Freight. Worked for me. The extractor turns CCW, bites into the screw and backs it out.

https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-set-12-pc-61981.html

Sorry, I meant to specify this product from Harbor Freight :

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-remover-and-quick-change-bit-set-95530.html

This is the one that works.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2017, 06:50:05 AM by indybobm » Logged

So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2017, 07:52:24 AM »

Might try the Screw Extractor Set from Harbor Freight. Worked for me. The extractor turns CCW, bites into the screw and backs it out.

https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-set-12-pc-61981.html

Sorry, I meant to specify this product from Harbor Freight :

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-remover-and-quick-change-bit-set-95530.html

This is the one that works.

Thanks
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..
Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2017, 01:40:17 PM »

Might try the Screw Extractor Set from Harbor Freight. Worked for me. The extractor turns CCW, bites into the screw and backs it out.

https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-set-12-pc-61981.html

Sorry, I meant to specify this product from Harbor Freight :

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-remover-and-quick-change-bit-set-95530.html

This is the one that works.

Thanks a bunch. 90 minutes, 16 miles and $50 later I have the kit you suggested. Along with other stuff I couldn't live without  Grin
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2017, 03:37:47 PM »

Sorry, been out of town. I've been successful just using a drill bit in reverse.
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Hooter
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Posts: 4092

S.W. Michigan


« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2017, 03:50:12 AM »

Well?
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You are never lost if you don't care where you are!
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Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2017, 06:01:09 AM »

Well?

Well that was a f'in waste of time and effort.

I now have a beautifully shaped saucer of a hole in the head of the allen key.



The extractors ate through the metal at really really slow speed.

Any more suggestions as to how I can remove this bloody thing?
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2017, 07:39:50 AM »

Did you try the center punch, tapping it around with a hammer?

If that don't work get a 1/4" drill bit new, sharp and made for metal not wood.  Drill through the head.  Hopefully there we'll be enough of the threads left to grab with a vise grip.
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..
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2017, 07:45:31 AM »

20 minutes of tappety, tap, tap with a flat screwdriver bit made a slight nick in the edge of the round head.

Just enough to start the screw moving out. Once I'd got it around about 2 revolutions I made a small pad of duct tape and used that to turn it out to the point where my fingertips could grab it.

I also read a tip that suggested using a little steel wool and putting that into the fastener head (before it gets as buggered up as mine) to give more grip to the tool being used.
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30411


No VA


« Reply #13 on: September 26, 2017, 09:10:15 AM »

One other method is to use a small Dremel wheel to make a small center groove, then tap in a flat screwdriver.

There is no question that those little OE screws on the master cylinder covers are soft metal.

Those screws, probably more than any others on the whole bike, make owning a JIS screwdriver a good idea (I think there are only two JIS screw sizes on the whole bike, even though they make four size screwdriver heads).  The next most important spot on the bike for JIS screwdrivers is the secret center petcock fuel selector screw.

JIS Japanese Industrial Standard

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

Also, I think they make some little (stainless) allen head replacement screws (metric or SAE, I don't know) for those master cylinder covers.  

It's just that they need to have the countersunk head shapes like the soft JIS screws do.





If anybody knows the exact set of four in a package to be ordered on-line, let us know.  We all could benefit from throwing away the soft OE MC screws.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2017, 09:19:54 AM by Jess from VA » Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
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Posts: 14769


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #14 on: September 26, 2017, 10:31:16 AM »

20 minutes of tappety, tap, tap with a flat screwdriver bit made a slight nick in the edge of the round head.

Just enough to start the screw moving out. Once I'd got it around about 2 revolutions I made a small pad of duct tape and used that to turn it out to the point where my fingertips could grab it.

I also read a tip that suggested using a little steel wool and putting that into the fastener head (before it gets as buggered up as mine) to give more grip to the tool being used.

See could have saved you a trip to the hardware store and a few bucks  cooldude Cheesy
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #15 on: September 26, 2017, 11:34:54 AM »

One other method is to use a small Dremel wheel to make a small center groove, then tap in a flat screwdriver.

There is no question that those little OE screws on the master cylinder covers are soft metal.

Those screws, probably more than any others on the whole bike, make owning a JIS screwdriver a good idea (I think there are only two JIS screw sizes on the whole bike, even though they make four size screwdriver heads).  The next most important spot on the bike for JIS screwdrivers is the secret center petcock fuel selector screw.

JIS Japanese Industrial Standard

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

Also, I think they make some little (stainless) allen head replacement screws (metric or SAE, I don't know) for those master cylinder covers.  

It's just that they need to have the countersunk head shapes like the soft JIS screws do.





If anybody knows the exact set of four in a package to be ordered on-line, let us know.  We all could benefit from throwing away the soft OE MC screws.
I was able to find the stainless Allen head ones at Ace Hardware. I don't recall the size, I just took a screw in and matched it up.
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jim@98valkyrie.com
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Posts: 395


Wayne, PA


WWW
« Reply #16 on: September 26, 2017, 12:16:16 PM »

I changed all mine on both bikes. They are metric  4x12 stainless flat head Allen screws. With a minute drop of anti-size on the threads.
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oldsmokey
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Posts: 354

Mendon Massachusetts


« Reply #17 on: September 26, 2017, 12:36:08 PM »

Another aid for gripping the fastener is a dab of fine valve grinding compound. (that would be prior to total destruction) tickedoff
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16779


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #18 on: September 26, 2017, 01:30:23 PM »


I stared at my stripped OEM ones on my eBay Valkyrie for a year or two,
and then bought new OEM ones.

Mostly, the OEM ones only strip because they're not really phillips
heads, they  just look like it. If you use the right bizarro phillips head
screw driver on them, they stay good... My "new" OEM ones are
about eight years old now and been removed numerous times and
they still look great.

You know those $5 packs of whacky screwdriver bits with a handle
displayed for people to impulse-buy while they wait in line at
the autoparts store? There's probably a bit in there that is right.

-Mike
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Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #19 on: September 26, 2017, 02:20:15 PM »

Had it happen to me once. I just drilled out the screw head. Once the cover is off just grab the screw with a pair of vice grips. Took all of 5 minutes and if you are careful you won't damage the cover. After that I invested in a set of JIS screw drivers. Lots of guys replace the screws with allen head screws. Meathead covered both things above.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2017, 02:23:43 PM by Harryc » Logged

valkyriemc
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Posts: 392


2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #20 on: September 26, 2017, 05:11:10 PM »

If you ever pull the carbs the jis screwdrivers are the deal. 
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Veteran USN '70-'76
Hook#3287
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Posts: 6439


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #21 on: September 27, 2017, 02:41:12 AM »

Is the screw driver in the OEM tool kit a JIS?

I would think so, but never looked.

Plus, with the bar added to the shaft to make it a "T" driver, should work on most stuck screws.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16779


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #22 on: September 27, 2017, 03:15:41 AM »

Is the screw driver in the OEM tool kit a JIS?

I would think so, but never looked.

Plus, with the bar added to the shaft to make it a "T" driver, should work on most stuck screws.

Put a #2 phillips in one of those screws and it feels loose even before the screw head wallows
out. If the toolkit screwdriver feels tight when you set it in the screw, it is probably right...

-Mike
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #23 on: September 27, 2017, 11:57:22 AM »

Britman used a hex head screw. Perhaps, a phillips is better for that size especially since I like to really tighten down the reservoir cap. Otherwise, the brake fluid sips out and ruins the clear coating around the reservoir lip.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #24 on: October 01, 2017, 05:29:18 PM »

I checked the clutch cap as well to find one of the little boogers was solid.


Tappity, tap, tap with hammer and flat head bit for a while until  that came loose.

Anti seize on all four now and of course 2 replacements.
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