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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: hydrolock engine probably locked now what  (Read 1481 times)
VegasF6
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« on: October 02, 2017, 06:05:03 AM »

Long story involving a carb nightmare and the worst "mechanic" ever. So anyhow I had to pull carbs and apparently upon reinstall i guess floats stuck open and filled the carbs and apparently the cylinders with fuel.
I tapped the starter I didn't hold it down for long but it seemed to lock up so I stopped. This was last night. Carbs are back off and intakes are removed and also plugs have been pulled.
Tried to roll over the engine just now to clear the cylinders and it doesn't want to roll over.
What do I do next??
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Ramie
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2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2017, 06:07:46 AM »

If the starter just spins you may have broken a tooth on the starting gear.
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
VegasF6
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« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2017, 06:47:11 AM »

It isn't spinning. it like moves for a millisecond taking up the slack and then stops. I was afraid to crank it for very long.
Haven't checked the battery but the headlight is bright and no reason to suspect its low.
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VegasF6
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« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2017, 06:52:27 AM »

12.57 volts. battery is good.
How can it not spin with the plugs and intakes off?
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VegasF6
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« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2017, 07:11:05 AM »

All I can think of is to remove the timing cover and try and roll the engine over?
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2017, 07:33:06 AM »

All I can think of is to remove the timing cover and try and roll the engine over?

That's what I would do.

12.57 volts. battery is good.
How can it not spin with the plugs and intakes off?

12.57V does not mean the battery is good.  A new, fully charged battery should read higher than that (12.7-12.9V from 20°F and up).  After you've removed the timing cover to crank by hand so you know the engine will spin, try jumping your bike from an engine-off car.
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VegasF6
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« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2017, 08:02:57 AM »

All right, good news at least. First I didn't have to remove the whole timing cover, there is an access cover right in the center. Duh, I guess that's not news Smiley
Anyhow engine rolls over fine, went around several times watched all the valves open and close, spit some fuel out.
So, it could be low battery or some other starter issue, which I will consider good news. Low battery may even have saved my ass here.
Now back to the carb issues. I really should start a new thread but quick rundown.
Fuel rails were leaking, I was in a hurry and hired someone to do the job.
He screwed me over every way imaginable and they started leaking again within days, finally I was forced to do the job myself.

Got carbs on bench, separated and put in the cheaper oring kit from redeye. Did not do the whole carb kit as I just paid this other guy to do it (and hopefully he did) anyhow I did pull the float bowls to look inside, they were mostly clean I would say. Put the bowls back on and made up some drain lines (as the "mechanic" just threw the drain assembly away) and put on the carbs, like 3 or 4 of them just filled up with fuel and overflowed everywhere, air even coming out of the air tubes. Like stuck floats.

Pulled carbs, put on bench, turned them upside down once or twice and filled them with fuel and they don't overflow.

Thoughts? Anyway I could have installed something incorrectly and caused the floats to remain open??

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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2017, 12:29:53 PM »

Sometimes the floats tend to stick when dry. Since you have the carbs off now, I would test them by fueling them on the bench a couple times to check them. Check all the rubber tips.
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VegasF6
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« Reply #8 on: October 02, 2017, 01:15:12 PM »

Roger that thanks
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Leathel
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New Zealand


« Reply #9 on: October 02, 2017, 02:07:28 PM »

Did you check the float height settings? That is very important on these.... Replace floats if out of spec is what the book says Smiley
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Steel cowboy
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Moving ahead so life won’t pass me by.

Spring Hill, Fl.


« Reply #10 on: October 02, 2017, 04:55:02 PM »

Sorry if I tax your knowledge. Did you check the float (needle) valves. If this mechanic screwed you as bad as you said, maybe he did not change them out. The needle valves have a spring and plunger that sits on the float side, make sure when pushed in the spring back out. Better yet "replace them when your not sure" is my motto. The same goes for the floats.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2017, 04:57:13 PM by Steel cowboy » Logged

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Ramie
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2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #11 on: October 03, 2017, 05:40:37 AM »

Change out the float needle valves.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KOD732/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
Leathel
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New Zealand


« Reply #12 on: October 03, 2017, 11:09:29 AM »


still check the float levels after it, the K&L and .5mm longer when compressed but if the floats are too distorted they may still need replacing

The K&L was enough to raise my floats to spec levels again but one was just in spec.
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valkyriemc
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2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #13 on: October 04, 2017, 09:30:56 AM »

Don't know if you considered this but this is an excellent carb rebuilt on youtube. This was the best I found a few years ago when I did mine. It's in several parts. G/L. (It's worth a look )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLTpQCTBsc
« Last Edit: October 04, 2017, 09:36:39 AM by valkyriemc » Logged

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