NighthawkVTX
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« on: October 06, 2017, 09:36:06 PM » |
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Is anyone using Amzoil in their 1500. I spoke to the stealership today, and they said not to use it in the 1500 flat 6. They said stick to Honda full synthetic
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If at first you don't succeed, then perhaps skydiving isn't for you
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Bighead
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« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2017, 10:01:43 PM » |
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They are just wanting you to buy oil from them period! Nothing wrong with a. Ton of oils out there in the 1500 flat 6.
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1997 Bumble Bee 1999 Interstate (sold) 2016 Wing
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98valk
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« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2017, 04:49:36 AM » |
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over the yrs Honda branded oil has tested very poorly with used oil analysis.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Foozle
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« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2017, 05:20:11 AM » |
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I've used Amsoil off-and-on in my Valkyrie for years without any problem. Currently using Royal Purple - but only because I got a good price on it. If you ride a lot, frequent oil changes can get a tad pricey with these fully synthetics. Still, I'm convinced they're worth the expenditure. Just MHO. Terry
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2017, 05:30:42 AM » |
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Is anyone using Amzoil in their 1500. I spoke to the stealership today, and they said not to use it in the 1500 flat 6. They said stick to Honda full synthetic
Boy, I wish I had had this tidbit of information over 100k miles ago. Guess it's too late to change now to save the engine. 
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Gideon
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« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2017, 06:03:32 AM » |
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I've used Amsoil off-and-on in my Valkyrie for years without any problem. Currently using Royal Purple - but only because I got a good price on it. If you ride a lot, frequent oil changes can get a tad pricey with these fully synthetics. Still, I'm convinced they're worth the expenditure. Just MHO. Terry
If you want a very good synthetic oil that is low cost try Rotella T6 5-40. 
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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint. Isaiah 40:31
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mello dude
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Posts: 951
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2017, 06:21:29 AM » |
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Is anyone using Amzoil in their 1500. I spoke to the stealership today, and they said not to use it in the 1500 flat 6. They said stick to Honda full synthetic
Don't give your business to that dealer!
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me....... * Mr. Murphy was an optimist.... * There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius..... * My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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h13man
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Posts: 1750
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2017, 06:23:37 AM » |
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I've used Amsoil off-and-on in my Valkyrie for years without any problem. Currently using Royal Purple - but only because I got a good price on it. If you ride a lot, frequent oil changes can get a tad pricey with these fully synthetics. Still, I'm convinced they're worth the expenditure. Just MHO. Terry
If you want a very good synthetic oil that is low cost try Rotella T6 5-40.  +1! $17 a jug with rebate of $5 from Shell every time for me @ once a season. Changing your oil a at decent intervals is alot more important than the $$$ spent on exoctic high priced oils that chances are for average rider will NEVER see results from. My personal opinion for my rides only yours, your $$$.
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Valker
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Posts: 2995
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2017, 06:37:04 AM » |
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Amsoil is good if you get the motorcycle oil. The car oil will kill a wet clutch. I’ve run Amsoil several times, especially on very long trips where I don’t want to bother with an oil change mid trip. I’m currently running Tractor Supply house brand 10-40 conventional because I picked up a two gallon jug for $9.99. That’s two full changes (two Valks). I’ve not noticed any difference in oil performance at 160,000 miles on the main Valk.
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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« Reply #9 on: October 07, 2017, 06:44:32 AM » |
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Is anyone using Amzoil in their 1500. I spoke to the stealership today, and they said not to use it in the 1500 flat 6. They said stick to Honda full synthetic
Just make sure you DO NOT use an oil that has friction modifiers. Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. The bottom half of the circular "label" shouldn't have any writing in.
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« Last Edit: October 07, 2017, 06:51:59 AM by Britman »
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2017, 06:48:48 AM » |
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Re. a couple posts above; first, it makes little difference if you ride a lot, the price is rather immaterial mainly because you're not changing the oil as often. With today's oils, be it dino oil or synthetic, there is no need to be changing it at 3-3500 miles intervals. I've use Amsoil in my bikes for years and unless I'm taking a trip, I don't change it at any point prior to at least 7k miles. If that point is going to come up during the trip, I'll often change it a couple thousand early while still at home.
As for using synthetic in a 100k motor, go for it, won't hurt it one bit and it's not too late. If the dealer tells you not to use synthetic at this point, they don't know what they're talking about and just trying to get you to buy their Honda oil which is an overpriced commodity which doesn't show up real good on testing. You have to use a little common sense when it comes to the use of oils, and part of that common sense is DON'T LISTEN TO THE DEALER!
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Gideon
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« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2017, 08:17:57 AM » |
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Re. a couple posts above; first, it makes little difference if you ride a lot, the price is rather immaterial mainly because you're not changing the oil as often. With today's oils, be it dino oil or synthetic, there is no need to be changing it at 3-3500 miles intervals. I've use Amsoil in my bikes for years and unless I'm taking a trip, I don't change it at any point prior to at least 7k miles. If that point is going to come up during the trip, I'll often change it a couple thousand early while still at home.
As for using synthetic in a 100k motor, go for it, won't hurt it one bit and it's not too late. If the dealer tells you not to use synthetic at this point, they don't know what they're talking about and just trying to get you to buy their Honda oil which is an overpriced commodity which doesn't show up real good on testing. You have to use a little common sense when it comes to the use of oils, and part of that common sense is DON'T LISTEN TO THE DEALER!

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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint. Isaiah 40:31
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98valk
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« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2017, 08:21:00 AM » |
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Amsoil is good if you get the motorcycle oil. The car oil will kill a wet clutch. I’ve run Amsoil several times, especially on very long trips where I don’t want to bother with an oil change mid trip. I’m currently running Tractor Supply house brand 10-40 conventional because I picked up a two gallon jug for $9.99. That’s two full changes (two Valks). I’ve not noticed any difference in oil performance at 160,000 miles on the main Valk.
Amsoil 10w40 and 20w50 car oil is basically the motorcycle oil just not in a mc bottle. Always has been and cost less. those mc labeled bottles are expensive. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-protection-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=AMOQT-EA "Premium Protection Synthetic Motor Oil contains no friction modifiers, making it ideal for motorcycles, maintenance equipment and other wet-clutch transmission applications." I've posted this before. I was a dealer in the 80-90s, before they had the mc bottles.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Valker
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Posts: 2995
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #13 on: October 07, 2017, 10:03:08 AM » |
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Amsoil is good if you get the motorcycle oil. The car oil will kill a wet clutch. I’ve run Amsoil several times, especially on very long trips where I don’t want to bother with an oil change mid trip. I’m currently running Tractor Supply house brand 10-40 conventional because I picked up a two gallon jug for $9.99. That’s two full changes (two Valks). I’ve not noticed any difference in oil performance at 160,000 miles on the main Valk.
Amsoil 10w40 and 20w50 car oil is basically the motorcycle oil just not in a mc bottle. Always has been and cost less. those mc labeled bottles are expensive. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-protection-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=AMOQT-EA "Premium Protection Synthetic Motor Oil contains no friction modifiers, making it ideal for motorcycles, maintenance equipment and other wet-clutch transmission applications." I've posted this before. I was a dealer in the 80-90s, before they had the mc bottles. I see you are correct. Thanks for letting me know that.
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #14 on: October 07, 2017, 02:21:28 PM » |
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Can't speak for the flat 6, but I used Amsoil in my Shadow. Dino first, then synthetic next. I had gotten a 7% increase in fuel economy. That paid for the oil.
But since, for my Valkyrie and GW 1500, have bought the Rotella T6 instead. Much cheaper. I have yet to ride in a year, to the expected life of the oil, for an oil change. So I do mine annually.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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98valk
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« Reply #15 on: October 07, 2017, 03:17:44 PM » |
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Can't speak for the flat 6, but I used Amsoil in my Shadow. Dino first, then synthetic next. I had gotten a 7% increase in fuel economy. That paid for the oil.
But since, for my Valkyrie and GW 1500, have bought the Rotella T6 instead. Much cheaper. I have yet to ride in a year, to the expected life of the oil, for an oil change. So I do mine annually.
Diesel oils such as T6 have a high TBN which allows long drain intervals. that oil doesn't need to be change for at least 2 yrs. I did UOA for amsoil diesel 10w30/30HD oil. after 2 yrs and 8k miles it was still in spec and good to use. I posted the results before. very expensive though, so I just use diesel oil off the shelf. one UOA would convince u not to change once per yr.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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cookiedough
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« Reply #17 on: October 08, 2017, 01:53:09 PM » |
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Did you ask the dealer on WHY not to use Amsoil 10w-40 cycle oil offering a valid reason?
I would not use them just for that comment unless was a salesman saying it vs. the shop. If the shop stated that, do not go back, I would not.
Not sure it is worth 11 bucks per qt. at near 4 qts. but only change it once per year since will do 5000 miles per year easily which is my riding once per year. Conventional non-synthetic cycle oil will even probably do 5000 miles between oil changes, well maybe??
I use rotella t-6 5w-40 in my Can Am ATV''s with no issues and since less than 500 miles per year tops, I do not even change it yearly more like once every 3 years of riding, but is in dirtier/dustier conditions than a cycle.
I think it would be best to stick to 10w-40 as Honda recommends though vs. 5w-40 of anything, just my opinion. My Can am atv's recommend 5w-40 so sticking with oil weight as recommended is a good idea.
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98valk
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« Reply #18 on: October 08, 2017, 02:43:43 PM » |
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Did you ask the dealer on WHY not to use Amsoil 10w-40 cycle oil offering a valid reason?
I would not use them just for that comment unless was a salesman saying it vs. the shop. If the shop stated that, do not go back, I would not.
Not sure it is worth 11 bucks per qt. at near 4 qts. but only change it once per year since will do 5000 miles per year easily which is my riding once per year. Conventional non-synthetic cycle oil will even probably do 5000 miles between oil changes, well maybe??
I use rotella t-6 5w-40 in my Can Am ATV''s with no issues and since less than 500 miles per year tops, I do not even change it yearly more like once every 3 years of riding, but is in dirtier/dustier conditions than a cycle.
I think it would be best to stick to 10w-40 as Honda recommends though vs. 5w-40 of anything, just my opinion. My Can am atv's recommend 5w-40 so sticking with oil weight as recommended is a good idea.
actually honda recommends 10w30 upto 90F ambient and that was with 1988 spec'd dino oil. todays oil is dare I say 100 times better than '88 oil. even today honda recommends 10w30 for most of their m/c. even fro the GL1800. I've posted an older SAE test before whereas the major m/c makers test and design for 10w30. there are many UOAs of 10w40 showing that it actually thins out to a 10w30 yet with zero increased wear.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Oss
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Posts: 12593
The lower Hudson Valley
Ossining NY Chapter Rep VRCCDS0141
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« Reply #19 on: October 08, 2017, 04:43:44 PM » |
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where to you get the rotella t6 at 18 a gallon I pay 21 delivered to my door from amazon prime But Maybe that's about the same since I dont have to drive anywhere and you know that once I'm driving somewhere there is the danger I will stop for ice cream 
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WintrSol
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« Reply #20 on: October 08, 2017, 05:35:51 PM » |
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actually honda recommends 10w30 upto 90F ambient and that was with 1988 spec'd dino oil. todays oil is dare I say 100 times better than '88 oil. even today honda recommends 10w30 for most of their m/c. even fro the GL1800. I've posted an older SAE test before whereas the major m/c makers test and design for 10w30. there are many UOAs of 10w40 showing that it actually thins out to a 10w30 yet with zero increased wear.
My owner's manual says 10W-40 is recommended, but allows 10W-30 below 90F, and 20W-40 or -50 above freezing.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #21 on: October 08, 2017, 06:39:50 PM » |
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actually honda recommends 10w30 upto 90F ambient and that was with 1988 spec'd dino oil. todays oil is dare I say 100 times better than '88 oil. even today honda recommends 10w30 for most of their m/c. even fro the GL1800. I've posted an older SAE test before whereas the major m/c makers test and design for 10w30. there are many UOAs of 10w40 showing that it actually thins out to a 10w30 yet with zero increased wear.
My owner's manual says 10W-40 is recommended, but allows 10W-30 below 90F, and 20W-40 or -50 above freezing. I've been using Mobil 1 15w-50. But we never get below freezing here.
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98valk
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« Reply #22 on: October 08, 2017, 06:53:09 PM » |
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actually honda recommends 10w30 upto 90F ambient and that was with 1988 spec'd dino oil. todays oil is dare I say 100 times better than '88 oil. even today honda recommends 10w30 for most of their m/c. even fro the GL1800. I've posted an older SAE test before whereas the major m/c makers test and design for 10w30. there are many UOAs of 10w40 showing that it actually thins out to a 10w30 yet with zero increased wear.
My owner's manual says 10W-40 is recommended, but allows 10W-30 below 90F, and 20W-40 or -50 above freezing. 10w30 is 90-95F not below, (depending on interpretation of chart), shown above 30C which is 86F per chart in service manual. and same chart as '88 GL1500 goldwing manual. I've run diesel 10w30 oil for 8k miles for a 2 yr time frame, UOA came back still good for continued use, wear levels normal. 2007 Honda GL1800 recommended oil is 10W30 and it has a metal timing chain.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Hooter
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« Reply #23 on: October 09, 2017, 03:26:04 AM » |
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I love oil threads! Rotella "T" 15 x 40 is all I run in anything from my fire trucks to all my bikes. The abuse and the way my trucks were run in all types of conditions, especially run hard cold and on long hot scenes without failure, is proof to me that this stuff is worth the money. Rotella is cheap in comparison to most. I don't care what anyone else uses, whatever works for you! I use Honda filters all the time and there are cheaper. Now this can be a filter thread!
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« Last Edit: October 09, 2017, 03:31:49 AM by Hooter »
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You are never lost if you don't care where you are!
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Gideon
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« Reply #24 on: October 09, 2017, 04:55:18 AM » |
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I love oil threads! Rotella "T" 15 x 40 is all I run in anything from my fire trucks to all my bikes. The abuse and the way my trucks were run in all types of conditions, especially run hard cold and on long hot scenes without failure, is proof to me that this stuff is worth the money. Rotella is cheap in comparison to most. I don't care what anyone else uses, whatever works for you! I use Honda filters all the time and there are cheaper. Now this can be a filter thread!
Good point Hooter, Rotella T6, 5-40 Synthetic Oil and a Purolator Pure One PL14610 Filter.  This filter does a great job and it is only $6 Dollars at Meijer's Department store. Plus with this filter you can use all 4 qts. without over filling.
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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint. Isaiah 40:31
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #25 on: October 09, 2017, 10:20:07 AM » |
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where to you get the rotella t6 at 18 a gallon I pay 21 delivered to my door from amazon prime But Maybe that's about the same since I dont have to drive anywhere and you know that once I'm driving somewhere there is the danger I will stop for ice cream  I don't know, but I buy it at Walmart for $21 now. I think they have sales or rebates about every year. I would buy it when there is a sale.
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« Last Edit: October 09, 2017, 10:34:08 AM by gordonv »
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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valk52411
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« Reply #26 on: October 09, 2017, 11:40:19 AM » |
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Amsoil and a lot of others are all great oil. While the oil is very important don't forget about a good filter.
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How can you be at 2 places at once when your not any where at all?
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Houdini
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Posts: 1975
VRCC #28458 - VRCCDS#144
Allen, TX
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« Reply #27 on: October 09, 2017, 01:48:23 PM » |
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I won a raffle at my Honda dealer, four quarts of Amsoil oil and a filter for my Valk.
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"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need? 
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DK
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« Reply #28 on: October 22, 2017, 06:20:35 AM » |
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Is anyone using Amzoil in their 1500. I spoke to the stealership today, and they said not to use it in the 1500 flat 6. They said stick to Honda full synthetic
Ask that dealership how many Valk’s have they serviced in the last five years.
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
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cookiedough
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« Reply #29 on: October 22, 2017, 07:51:36 AM » |
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where to you get the rotella t6 at 18 a gallon I pay 21 delivered to my door from amazon prime But Maybe that's about the same since I dont have to drive anywhere and you know that once I'm driving somewhere there is the danger I will stop for ice cream  I don't know, but I buy it at Walmart for $21 now. I think they have sales or rebates about every year. I would buy it when there is a sale. farm and fleet stores is cheapest to buy rotella t6 5w-40 in blue jug on sale 19.99 then with 5 dollar rebate is only 14.99, plus tax of course. Since I only put on tops 500 miles per year on both Can Am ATV's, I usually do not change oil but once every 2-3 years since the tiny oil filter is sort of a pain the butt to get out, plus the oil looks super clean after 2 years still with such low mileage.
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