Question re. engine heat.

[John Schmidt]

Earlier this summer, before our 100+ degree/ditto humidity days, I was having a problem with higher than normal operating temperature on the Valk. When I posted the question, I also added that it was a Tourer with I/S radiator pods added plus the I/S baffle that goes behind the fan. I did receive some good suggestions as to what to look for, checks to make, etc. Following that session, I pulled that part of the bike apart including removing the original 180 deg. thermostat, flushed the system every which way, though it wasn't needed I even replaced the hoses since it was all apart. I then installed a new 180 t'stat, even though I was vacillating between it and a 160. I even removed my Bad Boy air horn mounted under the right side pod...just in case it was restricting air flow. All to no avail, because now even with temps in the upper 70's to mid 80's, at interstate speeds it will run at least 15 degrees hotter than before installing the pods and baffle. And after exiting the interstate and hitting stop and go traffic, by the second light my fan is running. This is something it never did before even in the dead of summer. Previously it "might" hit 190 at interstate speeds of 75+, and most of the time would operate in the 178-184 range, even in town. The only time the fan came on was when traffic was at a dead stop for extended periods such as at a RR crossing or rush hour when it takes 3-4 changes to get through an intersection.

Now I'm contemplating a trip to Louisiana to see my daughter, and possibly on to Ft. Worth....all still in the "can I afford it" stage. I don't want to have a bike running at 75 mph with a temp gauge showing 200 degrees....not in this weather, that is not normal. And, going across north Fla. it's a bit lonely out there....seems to take 2 days short of forever and is not the place to break down. Reminds me of I-70 across Kansas, only with less wheat but more palms(sorry Raymond). Sooooo....now I'm thinking of doing what I had originally considered doing and wish I had.....installing a 160 or possibly a 170 t'stat. My question is: has anyone ever run their bike with either of those temp thermostats installed, and if so did you have any problems?

There is no apparent water pump leaks, I don't lose any fluid, and just for kicks and giggles I hooked a hose up to one radiator hose(after removing the t'stat), stuck the hose in a large bucket of water and left the other side open. Then started the bike.....HOLY COW....AIN'T NOTHING WRONG WITH THE PUMP OUTPUT.  Suggestion....make sure the wife's car isn't nearby. I spent an afternoon cleaning up but at least now I know. 

[ArmyValker]

hmmm... can't answer to runnin a cooler thermostat but I can say that my bike regularly runs between 190-195 and has as long as I can remember.

[DFragn]

I've added the I/S pods & radiator baffle to my Tourer also. I have a Motosens coolant & oil temp gauge and have not noticed a significant operating temperature increase.

Mechanically, everything else is stock. Except for Desmog & ECT Mod & I/S ICM.
I wonder if the I/S ICM I installed has anything to do with my negligible temp increase.

[R J]

My bike runs at 200* or better all the time.   Has for over 220K and no problems.

Going to a colder thermo won't make a particle bit of difference in hot weather.

Cold weather, yeah, it will make a diff.

I have a SOCKET 3/4 drive stuck in my lower radiator hose on the Trike with NO thermo in the manifold.   This socket functions as  a restrictor plate, same as used on race cars and etc.     It runs 200* most of the time, except in cold weather.  Before I did this it ran 240*+ at highway speed.  Have an engine fan and a pusher electric fan.

Quit worrying about something that is not going to give you a problem......   Take the damn temp gauge off of it and ride it like it was stolen...........

[fstsix]

Did you say that you were running cooler before the IS Pods ? Have you tried backing off on your Antifreeze mixture maybe more water? Our try Wetter Wet additive. I also have a Big Nasty Oil cooler and still run @ 195 @ 65-75 mph been doing it for years with Co pilot.

[John U.]

Both my Valks seem to run around 200 in the warm weather. I added some of that water wetter or whatever stuff of that type Walmart sells, it helped a bit. In the deep south you shouldn't need a 50/50 mix, and water is a better coolant than antifreeze.
Regarding the thermostat; if you are running a 190 degree thermostat and your operating temps are well above that, I don't see how a different thermostat will solve the problem. If your thermostat is working properly it is already wide open and you're still running hotter.
Maybe it isn't working properly?

[John Schmidt]

It just seemed odd that with the addition of the pods and baffle it should make that big a difference in operating temp. FWIW....I've been using Water Wetter for the last 2-3 years with good results. I also have the I/S ICM plus a 4 degree T/W. I'm just not sure why, but before the pods and I/S baffle it operated in the low 180 range constantly and the fan hardly ever came on. At speed on a Fla. summer day....it would climb 8-10 degrees, but still hardly ever had the fan come on in traffic. Makes me wonder why the change. I suppose it's possible the new t'stat could be bad but doubt it since it will hold temps around 182 at highway speed unless the temp for the day is high or I'm pushing it a little harder. Guess I'll just change all the fluids and keep running it, it's about time for everything anyway...except the coolant this time.

RJ, your "restrictor" reminds me of something we used to do in years past. Back when you built up your rod instead of buying it off the showroom floor, and you could make a change in the engine without worrying about how it affected the damn computer.

[fstsix]

It just seemed odd that with the addition of the pods and baffle it should make that big a difference in operating temp. FWIW....I've been using Water Wetter for the last 2-3 years with good results. I also have the I/S ICM plus a 4 degree T/W. I'm just not sure why, but before the pods and I/S baffle it operated in the low 180 range constantly and the fan hardly ever came on. At speed on a Fla. summer day....it would climb 8-10 degrees, but still hardly ever had the fan come on in traffic. Makes me wonder why the change. I suppose it's possible the new t'stat could be bad but doubt it since it will hold temps around 182 at highway speed unless the temp for the day is high or I'm pushing it a little harder. Guess I'll just change all the fluids and keep running it, it's about time for everything anyway...except the coolant this time.

RJ, your "restrictor" reminds me of something we used to do in years past. Back when you built up your rod instead of buying it off the showroom floor, and you could make a change in the engine without worrying about how it affected the damn computer.

It could be the pods, I have often wondered if i removed my Chrome Radiator side covers if it could lower temp still thinking of doing this. The Magnacharger is almost to much for the stock Radiator even with the fan over ride switch.BTW have you ever been to the D.O.T.S ride in Jonhson city?.Your bike looks familiar.

[John Schmidt]

Yes, I was there. In fact, for proof I have the Oldest Rider award.  I guess that's better than winning the ugliest bike award(or ugliest rider). 

[Hoser]

Now I'm contemplating a trip to Louisiana to see my daughter, and possibly on to Ft. Worth....all still in the "can I afford it" stage. I don't want to have a bike running at 75 mph with a temp gauge showing 200 degrees....not in this weather, that is not normal.

I agree with RJ and John U, 200 hundred degrees is within the normal range, the fan does'nt even come on at that temperature.  And it is normal for the fan to come on, usually when the bike is stopped in traffic.  hoser

[Daniel Meyer]

200 is not unusual for the Valk at all. 220 even if measured at the oil.

Not going to hurt it a bit.

[fstsix]

Yes, I was there. In fact, for proof I have the Oldest Rider award.  I guess that's better than winning the ugliest bike award(or ugliest rider). 

Yep you have those 105mm cannons for exhaust and M-1 bullets across your back fender. Pretty sure we did a poker run through the mountains that weekend. We talked a bit and of coarse i was helping the town of Johnson City Paint new stripes on their Roads (Black) that is  .My plate was VA (BLOWN6) The Smokey mountains Gods country.

[John Schmidt]

Yes, I was there. In fact, for proof I have the Oldest Rider award.  I guess that's better than winning the ugliest bike award(or ugliest rider). 

Yep you have those 105mm cannons for exhaust and M-1 bullets across your back fender. Pretty sure we did a poker run through the mountains that weekend. We talked a bit and of coarse i was helping the town of Johnson City Paint new stripes on their Roads (Black) that is  .My plate was VA (BLOWN6) The Smokey mountains Gods country.

I have the cannons but no bullets on the fender, must be thinking of someone else.

Hoser and Dan, I realize the operating temp of 200 isn't so far out of whack, it just bothers me that prior to the pods and fan baffle it never, ever, ran that hot....even in moving traffic. It would creep up in stop/go which is to be expected, and the fan would come on if the temp hit 220. Soon as we started moving it went off, but now that doesn't happen, takes quite a few blocks to get it to shut off. I'm tempted to remove the pods and see how it acts, and if it seems to clear up part of the problem I guess that's my answer. I've also considered installing a bypass toggle switch for the fan just so I could flip it on earlier when the weather is extra warm. Probably won't, but have tossed the idea around.

[valkyriemc]

 I have a 2k Interstate that will usually heat up at a red light, or slow traffic in the summer here in north east Florida. Also if I run 80+ on the expressway, in the heat, it will run 190-195 steady, according to Motozen water temp gauge.
 Basicly I really don't like the fan cycling, i.e., the engine heating up then cooling some what while in slow traffic in warm weather so I have considered putting a switch on the fan to manually control it. Anyway I'd be all over removing the pods first, and the thermostat second rather than fret about it while your riding on I10. I just traveled from J'ville to Pensacola on 10 and there aint much out there.

[Robert]

I would check the thermostat temps the OEM stat is 190 not 180. If you indeed put a 190 back in, the temp is spot on.  I believe the oem stats keep the bike a little hotter than even a regular 190 stat,my guess would be they open a bit slower. I have measured my temps at highway and they are usually around  190 or so and at idle my fans almost never come on. I do run water wetter, 12% coolant and distilled water also a 180 for sure thermostat.   

[John Schmidt]

And the OEM thermostat I removed, it is 180 degrees. Page 6-11 spells it out: ...."thermostat begins to open (176-183F)."

The original item removed from my bike was marked 180, so that's what I put back in. As a side note, my sis-in-law is coming for a two week visit since my wife can hardly travel anymore. In an effort to stay out of their collective hair, I think now is a good time for me to pull that area apart again and install a 170. It will keep me occupied and out of the way. 

[98valk]

our bikes have the same thermo as a fully enclosed GL1500 engine which also has side radiators and a front fairing that keeps airflow off of the oil filter, water pump and its discharge hose.
I feel our bikes actually run too cold for max power and mpg for everyday use.
Right now with morning temps in the mid to high 40s the engine will not go past 180 and this is with 7/8s of the radiator blocked. These engines are cold natured, they are all aluminum which dissipates heat faster and now the alcohol in the fuel also has a cooling effect helping to keep temps lower.
For example my last long trip, at 70 degrees, running 80mph for over 1 hr I will see a steady 180degrees (no rad block) and 210 oil. When I slow down to 65mph the oil stays at 200, no change with water. Normally I will not see steady 195 water temp unless the it is 95degrees or hotter.
anybody similar?

[Robert]

John starts to open will not allow the temp to stay at 183 but will hover at 190 to 195 by the time open enough to allow full circulation. With the install of a true 180 thermostat my temp stays at 180 not 183 thats the difference. Of course this is with the engine getting air and not sitting like a cruise around town. I am surprised that the thermostat is marked 180 I thought the one I pulled out of mine said 190. 

[98valk]

John starts to open will not allow the temp to stay at 183 but will hover at 190 to 195 by the time open enough to allow full circulation. With the install of a true 180 thermostat my temp stays at 180 not 183 thats the difference. Of course this is with the engine getting air and not sitting like a cruise around town. I am surprised that the thermostat is marked 180 I thought the one I pulled out of mine said 190. 

I can see that my stock thermo starts to crack open at approx 178 and then will drop to 175 and then back up to 180, this is under the conditions I posted above. right within spec and basically what an off the self 180 will do.
R did u see any benefit going to the 180? based on the specs I would think your running a few degrees hotter now.

[Robert]

Actually with the 180 I run cooler and we seem to have a small problem because most on here seem to run 195 to 200 and yes this is on the highway but that is the usual for most valks. I did recheck oe specs and it did say starts to open at 176 to 183 fully open at 203. If you want something funny go into tech archives and in 08 John and I had this same discussion before in fact the only differenece was that John was going to put in a 180 thermostat.  Which may be the problem that the thermostats may not be oe but aftermarket. I dont think the oe have a temp on them.

[Chrisj CMA]

If I was suspect of my thermostat......Id get a new OEM one slam it in and ride

[John Schmidt]

The OEM t'stat doesn't have 180 deg. stamped on it. It has 82C stamped on it, which according to my conversion program = 179.6F.   

[98valk]

Actually with the 180 I run cooler and we seem to have a small problem because most on here seem to run 195 to 200 and yes this is on the highway but that is the usual for most valks. I did recheck oe specs and it did say starts to open at 176 to 183 fully open at 203. If you want something funny go into tech archives and in 08 John and I had this same discussion before in fact the only differenece was that John was going to put in a 180 thermostat.  Which may be the problem that the thermostats may not be oe but aftermarket. I dont think the oe have a temp on them.

I see those temps also but only after 15 minutes of riding at 65mph and the ambient temp is over 85. This morning ambient was 52 degrees and max temp was 180 after 10-15 minutes, my communte is 25 minutes. if the rad is not blocked it will stay at 150 to 170. The GL1500 stat is fully opened at 206 hence a different part # whereas the valkyrie is as u stated 203. Interestly the GL1200 uses the same stat.