ECT Mod - Plug-n-Play

[Jersey]

(Started a new thread so as not to hijack the other discussion)


My lady has the ECT Mod (added by the PO) and it works great.  However, I understand how some may not feel comfortable cutting wires on their ladies. So I'm curious how many would pay for a plug-n-play version of this ECT mod?  Something that would not require any cutting of wires... just plug in the mod and start her up?

Some of you may be aware of the AutoCancel-Hazard plug-n-play I already make for the Valkyries. Over the decades I've made many add-on/mods for my rides and prefer add-ons that mimic an OEM installation - neat, clean, and durable.  A few buddies have asked if I could build an ECT Plug-n-Play version, so I'm curious if others might be interested?  

If you ARE interested, feel free to PM me. Be aware. The raw costs for the plugs/sockets, etc  adds up, not to mention the little bit of labor.  Trust me, not making any money on these, just enough to justify to the wife why I'm in the garage to much.  

I'd be glad to make a few if enough folks are interested.  Off the top, it might be about $40 (Adjustable Advance)  $33 (Fixed Advance Setting)  This includes being shipped within 48 U.S.


Also, Let me know if you want one WITH an adjustable dial (WATERPROOF Potentiometer) or a FIX one with a single resistance.  IF you get a POT, you'll need to drill a hole in the right frame Black Plastic cover in front of the gastank.  The fix version would not require anything other than plug-n-play.

Cheers,
Jersey

[1NorthRyder]

Ok so I'll ask the question to show my lack of knowledge (stupidity). I've seen this topic before and would like to know what the ECT mod is and how it effects my ride. I've always had difficulty understanding the electronics on any vehicle and prefer the good old days when all you had was plugs and points.

[Jersey]

Ok so I'll ask the question to show my lack of knowledge (stupidity). I've seen this topic before and would like to know what the ECT mod is and how it effects my ride. I've always had difficulty understanding the electronics on any vehicle and prefer the good old days when all you had was plugs and points.

Not a stupid question at all.

The ECT Mod, in effect, advances the timing of the ignition on the engine.   Advancing timing provides a benefit in power for the Valkyrie.

There's a lot of information about ignition timing in general with combustion engines.  The impact of WHEN the spark occurs relative to the compression of the gases inside the cylinder is an ongoing balancing act across the full RPM range of the engine.  If you're interested, I'm sure some folks on the other post would be glad to expand on the full theory, etc.   For the purpose of this post, the ECT Mod will provide you a bit more Get up and Go at engine speeds below 3k RPM.

Does that help?

[turtle254]

(Started a new thread so as not to hijack the other discussion)


My lady has the ECT Mod (added by the PO) and it works great.  However, I understand how some may not feel comfortable cutting wires on their ladies. So I'm curious how many would pay for a plug-n-play version of this ECT mod?  Something that would not require any cutting of wires... just plug in the mod and start her up?

Some of you may be aware of the AutoCancel-Hazard plug-n-play I already make for the Valkyries. Over the decades I've made many add-on/mods for my rides and prefer add-ons that mimic an OEM installation - neat, clean, and durable.  A few buddies have asked if I could build an ECT Plug-n-Play version, so I'm curious if others might be interested?  

If you ARE interested, feel free to PM me. Be aware. The raw costs for the plugs/sockets, etc  adds up, not to mention the little bit of labor.  Trust me, not making any money on these, just enough to justify to the wife why I'm in the garage to much.  

I'd be glad to make a few if enough folks are interested.  Off the top, it might be about $40 (Adjustable Advance)  $33 (Fixed Advance Setting)  This includes being shipped within 48 U.S.


Also, Let me know if you want one WITH an adjustable dial (WATERPROOF Potentiometer) or a FIX one with a single resistance.  IF you get a POT, you'll need to drill a hole in the right frame Black Plastic cover in front of the gastank.  The fix version would not require anything other than plug-n-play.

Cheers,
Jersey

I keep asking this question with no answer ... "I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.  "

But yes I would like one! 

[Jersey]

(Started a new thread so as not to hijack the other discussion)


My lady has the ECT Mod (added by the PO) and it works great.  However, I understand how some may not feel comfortable cutting wires on their ladies. So I'm curious how many would pay for a plug-n-play version of this ECT mod?  Something that would not require any cutting of wires... just plug in the mod and start her up?

Some of you may be aware of the AutoCancel-Hazard plug-n-play I already make for the Valkyries. Over the decades I've made many add-on/mods for my rides and prefer add-ons that mimic an OEM installation - neat, clean, and durable.  A few buddies have asked if I could build an ECT Plug-n-Play version, so I'm curious if others might be interested?  

If you ARE interested, feel free to PM me. Be aware. The raw costs for the plugs/sockets, etc  adds up, not to mention the little bit of labor.  Trust me, not making any money on these, just enough to justify to the wife why I'm in the garage to much.  

I'd be glad to make a few if enough folks are interested.  Off the top, it might be about $40 (Adjustable Advance)  $33 (Fixed Advance Setting)  This includes being shipped within 48 U.S.


Also, Let me know if you want one WITH an adjustable dial (WATERPROOF Potentiometer) or a FIX one with a single resistance.  IF you get a POT, you'll need to drill a hole in the right frame Black Plastic cover in front of the gastank.  The fix version would not require anything other than plug-n-play.

Cheers,
Jersey

I keep asking this question with no answer ... "I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.  "

But yes I would like one! 

Is the same, except for the Neutral cutout.  Otherwise you'd be high-revving all the time.

[1NorthRyder]

Thanks Jersey, I assumed it was something like that. I'm not real keen cutting cables but would certainly be interested in a plug-n play unit because you can never have to much get up and go.

[turtle254]

(Started a new thread so as not to hijack the other discussion)


My lady has the ECT Mod (added by the PO) and it works great.  However, I understand how some may not feel comfortable cutting wires on their ladies. So I'm curious how many would pay for a plug-n-play version of this ECT mod?  Something that would not require any cutting of wires... just plug in the mod and start her up?

Some of you may be aware of the AutoCancel-Hazard plug-n-play I already make for the Valkyries. Over the decades I've made many add-on/mods for my rides and prefer add-ons that mimic an OEM installation - neat, clean, and durable.  A few buddies have asked if I could build an ECT Plug-n-Play version, so I'm curious if others might be interested?  

If you ARE interested, feel free to PM me. Be aware. The raw costs for the plugs/sockets, etc  adds up, not to mention the little bit of labor.  Trust me, not making any money on these, just enough to justify to the wife why I'm in the garage to much.  

I'd be glad to make a few if enough folks are interested.  Off the top, it might be about $40 (Adjustable Advance)  $33 (Fixed Advance Setting)  This includes being shipped within 48 U.S.


Also, Let me know if you want one WITH an adjustable dial (WATERPROOF Potentiometer) or a FIX one with a single resistance.  IF you get a POT, you'll need to drill a hole in the right frame Black Plastic cover in front of the gastank.  The fix version would not require anything other than plug-n-play.

Cheers,
Jersey

I keep asking this question with no answer ... "I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.  "

But yes I would like one! 

Is the same, except for the Neutral cutout.  Otherwise you'd be high-revving all the time.

You can still install the conn for neutral if wanted, but you now have a cleaned install with out the ECT being part of it.

[Jersey]

(Started a new thread so as not to hijack the other discussion)


My lady has the ECT Mod (added by the PO) and it works great.  However, I understand how some may not feel comfortable cutting wires on their ladies. So I'm curious how many would pay for a plug-n-play version of this ECT mod?  Something that would not require any cutting of wires... just plug in the mod and start her up?

Some of you may be aware of the AutoCancel-Hazard plug-n-play I already make for the Valkyries. Over the decades I've made many add-on/mods for my rides and prefer add-ons that mimic an OEM installation - neat, clean, and durable.  A few buddies have asked if I could build an ECT Plug-n-Play version, so I'm curious if others might be interested?  

If you ARE interested, feel free to PM me. Be aware. The raw costs for the plugs/sockets, etc  adds up, not to mention the little bit of labor.  Trust me, not making any money on these, just enough to justify to the wife why I'm in the garage to much.  

I'd be glad to make a few if enough folks are interested.  Off the top, it might be about $40 (Adjustable Advance)  $33 (Fixed Advance Setting)  This includes being shipped within 48 U.S.


Also, Let me know if you want one WITH an adjustable dial (WATERPROOF Potentiometer) or a FIX one with a single resistance.  IF you get a POT, you'll need to drill a hole in the right frame Black Plastic cover in front of the gastank.  The fix version would not require anything other than plug-n-play.

Cheers,
Jersey

I keep asking this question with no answer ... "I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.  "

But yes I would like one! 

Is the same, except for the Neutral cutout.  Otherwise you'd be high-revving all the time.

You can still install the conn for neutral if wanted, but you now have a cleaned install with out the ECT being part of it.

Not knowing the internal details of the ICM, I wonder if the ECT signal is used in other ways?   

[turtle254]

(Started a new thread so as not to hijack the other discussion)


My lady has the ECT Mod (added by the PO) and it works great.  However, I understand how some may not feel comfortable cutting wires on their ladies. So I'm curious how many would pay for a plug-n-play version of this ECT mod?  Something that would not require any cutting of wires... just plug in the mod and start her up?

Some of you may be aware of the AutoCancel-Hazard plug-n-play I already make for the Valkyries. Over the decades I've made many add-on/mods for my rides and prefer add-ons that mimic an OEM installation - neat, clean, and durable.  A few buddies have asked if I could build an ECT Plug-n-Play version, so I'm curious if others might be interested?  

If you ARE interested, feel free to PM me. Be aware. The raw costs for the plugs/sockets, etc  adds up, not to mention the little bit of labor.  Trust me, not making any money on these, just enough to justify to the wife why I'm in the garage to much.  

I'd be glad to make a few if enough folks are interested.  Off the top, it might be about $40 (Adjustable Advance)  $33 (Fixed Advance Setting)  This includes being shipped within 48 U.S.


Also, Let me know if you want one WITH an adjustable dial (WATERPROOF Potentiometer) or a FIX one with a single resistance.  IF you get a POT, you'll need to drill a hole in the right frame Black Plastic cover in front of the gastank.  The fix version would not require anything other than plug-n-play.

Cheers,
Jersey

I keep asking this question with no answer ... "I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.  "

But yes I would like one! 

Is the same, except for the Neutral cutout.  Otherwise you'd be high-revving all the time.

You can still install the conn for neutral if wanted, but you now have a cleaned install with out the ECT being part of it.

Not knowing the internal details of the ICM, I wonder if the ECT signal is used in other ways?   

It is on the ones with fuel injection, but not carbureted models. Just a voltages your changing to say the engine is cold. But your not doing that any more with this MOD, your now using it to change the advance no matter what the engine temp. is. 

[Wayn-O]

I suggested something like this back in April 2016. 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86129.msg847045.html#msg847045
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86391.msg850382.html#msg850382

Glad to see that someone is running with it. 

[Jersey]

I suggested something like this back in April 2016. 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86129.msg847045.html#msg847045
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86391.msg850382.html#msg850382

Glad to see that someone is running with it. 

Yep. I saw that and full cred to your idea!

[turtle254]

I suggested something like this back in April 2016. 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86129.msg847045.html#msg847045
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86391.msg850382.html#msg850382

Glad to see that someone is running with it. 

Yep. I saw that and full cred to your idea!

Found this infor on google ... . could help you in your design.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
" The goal of this change is to tell the engine control module that the engine is cold when it is actually hot.

The control module does this by looking into the engine coolant tempature sensor and reading it's resistance.

Factory says that when the engine is 68deg the resistance will be between 2000 and 3000 ohms

Factory says that when the engine is at 176deg the resistance will be between 200 and 400 ohms

No addtional advance occurs below 800rpm or above 3500rpm, hot or cold


If you want only half of the advance, don't even bother putting a pot. Get a 2.2k Ohm 1/2 Watt Resistor instead of a 3.9k Ohm resistor. This should give you approximately 5-6 degrees of advance.


"The pot was selected and customized (adding the 3.9kohm Resistor) to give you approximately half of that advance when the pot is turned half way up.  The very beginning and the very end of the adjustment will not do anything.  That was to insure you could turn the advance completely on and completely off."

I think it is just the wording of the statement that is a bit confusing.. The full range of the pot actually does have effect.... Fully counter clockwise, you have a short, (if wired as the picture shows) which adds nothing to the original circuit resistance, so the ECT thermistor controls the action as designed.  no additional timing advance.

fully clockwise, you have added the series resistance of the added circuit into the ECT thermistor resistance which makes the ECM think the bike is cold no matter what the coolant temperature,,, extra 10 degrees advance.

The evidence is that when the pot is fully clockwise, (full on) and the bike is warm and dropped into gear, the RPM will jump up 200 or so.

Half way adjustment on the pot, half added advance.   When the bike is warm, the thermistor has very low resistance, and what is tricking the ECM is the added series resistance from the mod. Not sure if that makes it clear or not Josh.

The issue I see when reviewing the wiring diagram is that on cold start with the diode, when in neutral the ICM will not have the correct input indicating a cold engine. Possible hard start or poor idle in neutral until warm?

Now that I'm taking a good look at the diagram it appears the pot/resistor is installed in the reference wire and not the signal wire to the ICM. Not a problem for the coolant temp sensor but that reference is shared with the Ignition Pulse Generator.
This is the information I used to add the clutch switch, it's quoted from a post by BlueValk in an old thread from 2013.


The sensor has two wires going to it. We will talk about the ground wire first. Mine is Green/Black it also serves for the ground for the ign sensors. This circuit should be left intact. It is in fact a ground but it is bonded to the control module. Another way to say this is that this ground is dedicated to the engine control module. It is the basis for the ground the control module uses. If you cut it and do not solider the connection together when you repair it you can introduce some unusual problems with the engine control module.

The other wire is the wire that the control module looks into to read the resistance of the coolant sensor. This is the wire that we want to change the resistance of. on my bike it is Pink/White

Never put 12 volts on either of these two wires. If you happen to ground the Pink/White wire the module will think that the engine is real cold.

When I first did this change I had a question, did the module see the resistance as a changing smooth ramp or was the mapping of the module a saw tooth ramp. The answer is that the module sees a ramp of smooth resistance increase or decrease. As you change the resistance the module also smoothly changes the ign advance. At least within the mapping that the factory built in.

The graphs of the factory module (both hot and cold) used to be on the aftermarket engine control module site.

Back to what is going on with the pot as installed into the sensor circuit. When the engine is hot the engine control module retards the ign timing. If you lie to the module it will advance the ign timing thinking that the engine is cold.

When the engine is cold the resistance of the sensor is 2 to 3 thousand ohms. If you want to lie to the engine control module and tell it that the engine is cold all that you have to do is add a 3.3K ohm resistor from radio shack and the control module will advance the ign timing as far as the factory will allow.

If you want to adjust the timing then use a pot instead of the fixed resistor. Half of the resistance is not actually half of the advance. I would reccomend that you pull the inspection cover in the center of the tming belt cover and use a timing light to watch the marks while you decide just where the timing is going when you twist the knob.

When I first did this mod I passed on the pot. Instead I used two fixed resistors, two relays, two toggle switches, and indcator LED's so I could tell when I asked for half of the advancement or the full advancement on a hot engine.

If I were to do it again I would use one toggle switch and one resistor. Either a factory setting or the full advancement allowed. Simple, easy and repeatable. and I would have cut into the harness close the the engine control module so the switch could be between my legs. Easy to reach and operate.

comment on the diode. It's purpose is to cancel the addded resistance when you shift into neutral. The outcome of this is that the increased idle speed can be cancelled by shifting into neutral. Nice feature if you are sitting at a long red light.


One last check:  With the bike in gear, the key on, bike not running; measure the voltage at the diode/resistor junction.  It should measure about 3v when the bike is warmed up, and almost 4v when the bike is cold. But, I was wrong about the 3-4v.  That should be the voltage on the pink wire (p/w).  The voltage at the diode/resistor junction should be about half that when cold.  More as the bike warms up.

So, one side of the resistor should be 0v, and the other ~2v depending on engine temp.  Even if in neutral, there should be about .6v there.

See if you can measure the voltage at the blue connector on the pink wire (either and/or both ends of the blue connector).  It should be 3-4v, it could be 5v (if the ect sensor is unplugged).  If you don't have that voltage, try unplugging the blue connector and check again.
     
Clutch
"The anode of the second diode connects to the same wire as the first diode (from the neutral switch).  The cathode end connects to a wire from the clutch and I believe, it is in the headlight assembly.  It is a 9-pin connector.   The wire is Blue coming from the clutch and is G/R on the other side of the 9-pin connector."

This is the thread  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,63293.0.html

no resistor use a  2.5k logarithmic pot would work, but was not easily available


The module looks into this circuit from under the seat behind the overflow tank. So, adding resistance or reducing resistance anywhere from the module to the sensor will do the trick. So will a broken wire anywhere along this route.

So if putting the pot in the neck cover is a hard place to reach you can find the same wire at the engine control module and mount the pot closer to the seat. If you solder the connections you can mount the control on the handle bars or anywhere else you want. "
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My ideal is to unplug the blue connector and put a jumper in the ends , with the pot and do a way with the ECT since its now redunant.

[Jersey]

turtle254,

Good Information.  Helpful to have the 'factory' specs on how the resistance is used by the ECT.  Agree with your earlier post on EFI vs Carb, in that, most times there's much less mapping with the later.

I did notice the original post added the resistance to the Gnd Reference side... found that curious and was planning move that to the sensor side.  General rule of thumb is to never mess with Reference Voltages/Grounds.

Personally I think this is a good candidate for building a new Remapping interface using the ECT and RPM as inputs (both available at the ICM).  It's actually quite easy to do.  Could make it configurable, in that, different 'performance' maps can be uploaded based on Dyno testing.  There are MANY commercial add-ons out there that offer this, but the Valkyrie ICM system is fairly simple so doesn't really justify those high costs.  Then again, how many will pay to get the dyno testing done?

[turtle254]

I'm in on one, if your looking for a count. The cost would be minor compared with the results! 

[2KVISRiderDan]

Hello again Jersey. What would have to be removed to access the connectors involved in the installation?

[Jersey]

Hello again Jersey. What would have to be removed to access the connectors involved in the installation?

Just the black plastic cover on the frame oh front of the gas tank on the right.  The retaining pin needs to be pulled out first.

[Roadog]

Hello again Jersey. What would have to be removed to access the connectors involved in the installation?

Just the black plastic cover on the frame oh front of the gas tank on the right.  The retaining pin needs to be pulled out first.

Yes interested. 

Roadog

[¿spoom]

How does this compare to changing the trigger wheel 4° or 6° other than that option being a physical method? Thx.

[NEHI]

    Count me in.

[turtle254]

How does this compare to changing the trigger wheel 4° or 6° other than that option being a physical method? Thx.

Read post 21  and you will understand  ... trigger wheel is a fixed advance for all RPM's.

[Jersey]

I've built one as a test and use a highend water proof Potentiometer for the variable style.  Works very well and nice to be able to control the adjustment.

The fixed one of course is very discreet.

I've gotten 6 requests and will make these since I've already got the supplies.  Before I order more stuff, I want to see how many others are interested?  (Please ignore if you've already requested here or via email.)
IF YOU'RE INTERESTED PLEASE PM ME.

Costs:
Adjustable: $50 SHIPPED 48U.S.
Fixed:  $45 SHIPPED 48U.S.

If the cost seems high, be aware that there's a bit of plastic, etc. that has to be ordered (in low quantities) from different suppliers, so the shipping costs add on top of the assembly time.

So far, I like mine.  I actually undid the wired fixed resistance version on mine and installed the Adjustable type.  Very convenient and works very nicely.

[1NorthRyder]

Hi Jersey, I indicated earlier that I would be interested but was wondering if you had a photo of what the adjustable switch looks like on the bike. Not sure which I should go with.

[¿spoom]

How does this compare to changing the trigger wheel 4° or 6° other than that option being a physical method? Thx.

Read post 21  and you will understand  ... trigger wheel is a fixed advance for all RPM's.

Unless I counted wrong, post #21 would be the one after the one where you tell me to look at post 21?

[halfbreed]

Count me in

[turtle254]

How does this compare to changing the trigger wheel 4° or 6° other than that option being a physical method? Thx.

Read post 21  and you will understand  ... trigger wheel is a fixed advance for all RPM's.

Unless I counted wrong, post #21 would be the one after the one where you tell me to look at post 21?

How about #11

[Jersey]

So there have been a few posts requesting how the ICM uses the information from the ECT and how this Mod affects that function. I suggest searching through the Forum because there are about 3-4 other threads on this Mod that specifically get into HOW it all works.  Some smart folks on those threads did a great job explaining it all.  I don't think I can do any better.  Plus I started this thread to focus on JUST the Plug-n-Play aspect to help out those who might want this Mod, but are hesitant to cut wires, etc.  Also, I did't want to hijack their thread.

Remember if you're interested in one of these you'll need to send funds (paypal works).  I've ordered some supplies for the first 15 and can do more if payments are made.  Don't forget to specify if you want the fixed or the adjustable version.

Ride safe,
Jersey

[¿spoom]

How does this compare to changing the trigger wheel 4° or 6° other than that option being a physical method? Thx.

Read post 21  and you will understand  ... trigger wheel is a fixed advance for all RPM's.

Unless I counted wrong, post #21 would be the one after the one where you tell me to look at post 21?

How about #11

Never mind, didn't mean to trouble people and obviously the OP isn't THAT eager to sell anything or he would have responded to my question instead of you. I'll run along and let this thread continue it's course.

[Jersey]

How does this compare to changing the trigger wheel 4° or 6° other than that option being a physical method? Thx.

I started this thread to discuss/offer a Plug-n-Play version of what has already been discussed EXTENSIVELY on at least 2 other threads.  I also started this thread to NOT hijack those threads.  If you're seeking an explanation on this Mod, please read those other threads that explain this mod.  It's good protocol to do the research.

Thank you.
Jersey



 

[1NorthRyder]

Picked mine up on Saturday morning. Now I just have to figure out how to install it. I also got my VRCC calendar yesterday, I'll have to wait until January to use it though.

[Jersey]

Picked mine up on Saturday morning. Now I just have to figure out how to install it. I also got my VRCC calendar yesterday, I'll have to wait until January to use it though.

I have to admit, no instructions were included cause of all the details in the other posts.  Fairly straight forwardto install.
-remove right frame cover in front of gas tank.
-located the red 4 pin plug, disconnect, and reconnect the mod.
-located the 2 pin locking plug, disconnect, and reconnect the mod
-if you have the adjustable version, drill a 1/4" hole in the black cover where you want the dial to be. Insert and tighten the dial into the hole
-re insert the black cover.

That's it.

[1NorthRyder]

Thanks Jersey, it does sound simple.

[1NorthRyder]

So I installed the ECM on  Christmas day. It was simple except there were two four pin plugs, I hope I chose the right one. I did start the bike after but only for half a minute as I have the fuel tank off while I try to decide whether to desmog or not.

[markdam]

im in!

[Forge]

How would this work with the Interstate that already has more advance than the standard and tourer?

[tronerdog]

I'm in too. Sent you an email.

[98valk]

How would this work with the Interstate that already has more advance than the standard and tourer?

I/S does not. just a faster advance to 3k rpms where the ECT advance starts dropping off.
u can go to the dynatek site and see the ignition instructions which has the std and I/S curves.

[Kaahn]

I AM IN!

[tronerdog]

Just installed the "kit" and went for a ride. The increased bottom end is very noticeable. I also have the I/S ECM and carb springs, as well as rejetted and desmogged. I noticed no pinging, but I always run 91 octane. What I did notice however, was a little harder shifting due to the increased RPMs and less decel braking. I had enough torque to idle up my driveway! I put the pot as far forward on the cover as possible and it is super easy to change when riding.
My RPM increase is more like 500 rpm though. Possibly due to being a little rich at idle. I have iridium plugs which can mask a rich condition, but overall the mod has done exactly what everyone said and I'm looking forward to the mileage gains.
The kit looks factory and plugged right into the existing harness. Well worth the cost vs. splicing into the harness. I could remove it in 5 minutes if I wanted to, but I probably never will.....

[Jersey]

How would this work with the Interstate that already has more advance than the standard and tourer?

I/S does not. just a faster advance to 3k rpms where the ECT advance starts dropping off.
u can go to the dynatek site and see the ignition instructions which has the std and I/S curves.

Correct. The original postings talked about this.  What I have noticed on my I/S is a stronger startup/midrange pull.  Once you get past 3.5k it just continues as normal.

[bambam625]

ordered one from your site jersey. well see how much of a difference she makes