Is clutch replacement really that much of a hassle?

[lricker]

Looking for some insight, and/or technical expertise,
I have a '98 Standard with 99,000 miles.  Long story, but have been having shifting problems for a while.  Finally got it to dealer and they started by rebuilding/cleaning the master clutch cylinder on the bars.  No luck.  It seems like something is broken inside, and not always letting the clutch engage (but sometimes it does work).

Estimate is $500 to $2,500, depending on what they find once they get inside.  On Goldwings they need to pull the engine to really get things out/in.  Indicated that they can't find anything one way or the other for the Valk, but assuming they will need to do the same.  Unfortunately, until they tear into it, they won't know (which is going to cost me).

I ride hard.  Assuming if they go in, I should just have them replace everything (clutch).  However, at 99,000 miles, and $4-$5k bikes on Craigslist, do I just cut bait and get another bike?

Anyone local to DFW with experience/skills?  Wanna buy a slightly used 99 Valkyrie, that you could flip?
Thanks,
Lon
PS  - Yes, I know this bike should run forever.  I had 130,000+ miles on a '99 that was only replaced due to losing out to a couple cars and a guardrail.

[Pete]

Yes.
Can be done in the frame.
Still some work in close quarters, but doable.

[Steel cowboy]

Sounds like the dealer is experimenting with your money. What are the symptoms first, a little more as to what you are experiencing. I have read post were the clutch level is worn out causing a similar issues.

[hubcapsc]

The thing that typically goes wrong with a Valkyrie clutch
involves a rivet on one of the plates (hasn't happened to
me, but has to people I know, and to numerous people on
this board).

You can get up in there to work on it without even taking
the swingarm off, though that's not hard.

There's some spring pressure on the clutch-pack (I'm
not using the right jargon here) that you have to figure out
how to overcome.

If it happens to me I'll spend $100 or $200 (whatever I haven't
checked) on the special tool to overcome the spring pressure and
do it myself. Six or eight years ago I spent a couple hundred dollars
on some of the special tools in the manual, and have had my
swingarm off, I like the special tools 

Does your clutch lever pull in all the way sometimes and sometimes
not? That's kind of the description of the rivet problem's symptom...

-Mike

[98valk]

the only GW that requires a partial engine pull to replace a clutch is the GL1200 all others including the valkyrie are done with the engine in place. Not sure about the GL1800.  your dealer is trying to scam u for extra money. plenty threads on here on how to do it. and then there are the GW GL1500 forums with more info.

[Davemn]

I had my entire clutch replaced at a private shop for around 500.

[98valk]

contact BigBF.  one of the best valk mechanics.  he is heading your way on the way home.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,97804.0.html

[lricker]

Sorry all, just realized I didn't have notifications turned on.  Was surprised I didn't see any responses.
Here's the history:
I was experiencing intermittent issues with the clutch.  Sometimes it felt like something was "in the way" when attempting to engage.  I suspected maybe something in the lever.  After some time of ignoring it, I pulled the lever off and low and behold, the "pin" that comes into the lever had worn thru the backside of the lever!  Figured I shift too much, and it wore out, and I happened to have an extra lever laying around (second Valk - guess I had parts for some reason).
After installing the new lever, it worked like a champ.  For a month or so (I ride nearly every day, all over DFW both on highway and in city traffic - LOTS of shifting).
Then it started acting up again.  Sometimes, the lever pulls all the way in.  Sometimes not all the way, but I can still shift (which is why I didn't panic, yet). 
Then, on Monday when I was running to a bunch of meetings, it got worse.  To the point of where I couldn't pull it in far enough to engage the clutch at all.  Not cool in rush hour traffic.
Unfortunately, I ended up "forcing it" to downshift a few times (which is why I'm thinking I need a full clutch job now?). 
By the time I got home that night, it was kinda working again.  Sometimes I could actually get it into neutrel before a light!
(I should note that if I turned it off, I could actually pull the clutch a bit, and get it into neutrel.)
Of course I decided to ride to the dealer the next day, and it worked somewhat.  At one point, the lever pulled all the way in and it worked perfectly, but not for long.

They were pretty up front that they don't know what they are going to find. Said it could cost $500 to $2,500 to fix, depending.  I'd rather have someone indicate they are about to experiment with my $$, then to say "we can fix it!" and THEN find out they are clueless.

So, this BigBF guy is a mobile mechanic?  I have 1.5 acres of land with my fithwheel parked on it (power, water and we can find a place to dump!).  Sounds like I need to track his route.

(While this might "be easy" for some of you, I'm hoping to find someone with the skills I don't have).

I am picking the bike up from the dealer (on a trailer) tomorrow, and paying them the couple hundred for doing the master cylinder an diags.
Lon

[98valk]

sounds like damper plate. replace that and the disc on each side of it. and u will be good to go. oem clutch plates last 300+k miles.
contact BF, he is on facebook also

[gordonv]

Most pictures are gone now, from the older posts, we need to get new ones posted again.

You might like to also include your location in your profile.

With the problem coming/going, sounds like damper plate rivets loose in the clutch. So a search, you should find a lot more about it.

But there is also the pivot bolt on the lever. This can wear and elongate, making the lever not apply enough movement.

As for the price of the shop, take the others advise about Big BF. Check on the General Forum for his where abouts.
This was the newest one I found.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,97804.0.html

[Hooter]

When did the master cylinder take place?

[Valkpilot]

Looking for some insight, and/or technical expertise,
I have a '98 Standard with 99,000 miles.  Long story, but have been having shifting problems for a while.  Finally got it to dealer and they started by rebuilding/cleaning the master clutch cylinder on the bars.  No luck.  It seems like something is broken inside, and not always letting the clutch engage (but sometimes it does work).

Estimate is $500 to $2,500, depending on what they find once they get inside.  On Goldwings they need to pull the engine to really get things out/in.  Indicated that they can't find anything one way or the other for the Valk, but assuming they will need to do the same.  Unfortunately, until they tear into it, they won't know (which is going to cost me).

I ride hard.  Assuming if they go in, I should just have them replace everything (clutch).  However, at 99,000 miles, and $4-$5k bikes on Craigslist, do I just cut bait and get another bike?

Anyone local to DFW with experience/skills?  Wanna buy a slightly used 99 Valkyrie, that you could flip?
Thanks,
Lon
PS  - Yes, I know this bike should run forever.  I had 130,000+ miles on a '99 that was only replaced due to losing out to a couple cars and a guardrail.

Not really a bad job at all: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,20870.0.html