Fork seals and fluid questions

[FarmerRick]

Hello all. I just got my Valk this august with 20k miles on it. Supposedly the prior owner had just done a bunch of work to it including new fork seals, fluid(BelRay 10 weight) and progressive springs.
In my opinion, there is something wonky in the front end because it rides stiff as can be. every little bump is nearly jarring and when i hit a frost heave or a small pot hole it doesn't soak up the bump, it just shakes the hell out of the bars. Almost like there is no suspension at all, it's so rough.

Last weekend one of the seals started leaking so I'm planning on replacing them all over the winter and would like to find a way to get the front end to ride smoother somehow. 

Would a thinner fork oil help? Swap to stock springs? What seals to you all use, Honda or aftermarket?

Any help or ideas would be appreciated, thanks!!

[Fazer]

I was experiencing the same harshness in the front until I replaced the tires.  What a difference.  Lots of guys use the progressive springs and like them.  I'm sure you will get other replies.  BTW--I went double dark sided--Dunlop 404 rear MC tire on front, and Austone Taxi Tire on rear.  So far so good.

[da prez]

Usually to much fluid in the forks. When you rebuild , check the spring specs to the book. If in doubt , replace.

                                               da prez

[Gryphon Rider]

The most likely cause for what you are experiencing is that the forks are over-filled with oil.  Too much oil means there is less air to compress, meaning that for each centimeter the forks compress, the ratio of the air compression is much higher, effectively increasing the spring rate.

10 weight fork oil is appropriate, although it must be said that there really is no standard for fork oil weight numbers like there is for motor oil.

When you do replace the seals, realize that there are two different methods for measuring the oil, according to the manual.  One is to completely drain the forks, then carefully measure the amount you put back in.  I bought a graduated cylinder from a scientific equipment supplier to do this, as the tolerance in the shop manual is very tight, and different for each side.  The other method is only applicable when the springs are out, and involves measuring down from the top of the fork to the oil level inside.

I used Honda seals when I did it, and they are holding up years later.

[hubcapsc]

I put Progressive springs in my bike... followed the manual, got the tool, filled
with 10wt using the "inches from the top" method, replace the wear parts
specified in the manual (some bushings)... I guess I did it right, I
think if you re-do yours right you will like 

-Mike

[old2soon]

And from having been there done that no T-shirt go with Honda OEM replacement parts.  You Can thank me and da prez later!  RIDE SAFE.