Thanks Black Dog

[X Ring]

Black Dog let me know about warranty service on the pickups because of the instrument cluster.  I called the local GMC dealer.  They are going to replace it and I just have to pay the labor, about $150.

Marty

[Black Dog]

Glad I could help out 

Black Dog

[RoadKill]

You would think G.M. would have let ya know about it. 

[Black Dog]

You would think G.M. would have let ya know about it. 

It was one of those things that was 'under the radar'...  Some owners got letters, others (like me) found out about it on a GM forum.  Sorta like if ya 'bitch' enough, they would help you out, otherwise they wait for ya to get a good chunk beyond the alotted 'free' mileage, and make ya eat it.

The warrenty/fix had to do with a number of '03 & '04 Full size GM trucks (mine is a Suburban), that had problems/issues with the gauges.  One time, when parked, my speedo said I was doing 60mph!  The stator (?) motors were defective, and a new, recalibrated insturment cluster was the fix.

I was one of the squeaky wheels, and got the fix done for free.

Black Dog

[MAD6Gun]

This repairs is a "Special Policy Adjustment Bulletin". Basically what it states is. If your truck has this problem with the cluster it will be replaced for free for 7 years or 70,000 miles. Between 70 and 80K the cluster is covered, not the labor.  Affected trucks are  all 03 to 04 and some 05. Here is a copy of the letter sent out.

Dear General Motors Customer:

As the owner of a 2003 or 2004 model year Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV or Escalade EXT; Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, or Tahoe; or GMC Sierra, Yukon, or Yukon XL vehicle, your satisfaction with our product is very important to us.

This letter is intended to make you aware that some of these vehicles could develop a condition where one or more of the instrument panel gauge needles may stick, flutter, or become inoperative. This may cause inaccurate readings, including the speedometer and the fuel gauge.

Do not take your vehicle to your GM dealer as a result of this letter unless you believe that your vehicle has this condition.

What We Have Done: General Motors is providing owners with a special coverage that extends the warranty on the instrument panel cluster for the condition described above. If this condition occurs on your 2003 or 2004 model year Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, or Escalade EXT; Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, or Tahoe; GMC Sierra, Yukon, or Yukon XL within 7 years of the date your vehicle was originally placed in service or 70,000 miles, whichever occurs first, the condition will be repaired for you at no charge.

What You Should Do: Repairs and adjustments qualifying under this special coverage must be performed by a General Motors dealer. If you believe your vehicle has this condition, contact your GM dealer to schedule an appointment at a time that is convenient for you. Your dealer will inspect the vehicle and if the condition is found, your dealer will replace the instrument panel cluster. When calling your dealer, please have your 17 character vehicle identification number (VIN) handy so your dealer can ensure that the cluster will be available on your appointment date. Keep this letter with your other important glove box literature for future reference.

[~ Timbrwolf]

......bought my Blazer LS....new back in 97.....babied it like I do all my vehicles.....its almoxt 13 years old....and only has 73K miles on it....cuz if I can ride my bike...I do.....since I bought that truck, Ive had nothing but problems with it.....pop the hood and the first thing you see is all the "Recall Stickers" all the way across.....had two recalls on the wipers and a few months after the second one....they stopped working...( again )...took it to the dealer and he goes....you need a new wiper motor...that,ll be X amount of dollars ....I was like....oh no....there were TWO recalls....and its STILL not right...and he goes...Oh...that was for something else....you want it fixed....bend over......I couldnt believe it......4X4 ? ......stopped working.....air conditioning ? .....stopped working.......month ago Chili and I were comming home in the rain and the rear wiper......stopped in mid swipe....hasnt worked since...had to take it off and re-posistion it....so I could get the tail gate  open and get in the rear of the truck....have replaced the right rear white back up light so many times Ive lost count...why ?...because it leaks and fills up with water.....gas gauge ?......broke years ago....I have to "guess" how much gas I have left....same thing in Chili,s GMC...( coincidence Im sure)..Chili went to the Dealer and the parts guy sez....well...we got this "Stuff"....in a lil can....pour it in yer gas tank and it.. "might"....fix the problem....she sez how much ?......TWENTY FIVE BUCKS !!. ...And he dosent even garuntee it will work ?...took the aftermarket alarm out of the Blazer....alarm guy was a friend of mine...he calls the local Dealer to get the "code"...so he can "re code" my key-less entry....they go sure....we,ll give it to you......NINETY BUCKS !....I said...kiss my ass...I,ll use the key from now on....people are always bitching on here about the government helping out car manufacturers...well...far as Im concerned they should have let GM crash and burn....and they wonder why Americans buy....foreign...  

[MAD6Gun]

 Timber,let me help you out here. First of all, the recalls on the wipers were for a defective circuit board. The solder joints cracked and caused the wiper to stop. If the motor has failed that was not part of the original recall, just the board. If it is the board that has failed again I have had luck with re soldering the terminals on the board. If it is a motor failure, well that is different problem.

 The 4X4 problem could have been a vacuum problem. There is a small vacuum valve located on top of the transfer case that activates the front axle. if this valve fails it can cause fluid to enter the vacuum system. Can also cause the fluid to get to the HVAC control and cause HVAC door actuator failure. If you have not fixed it as yet. A good place to check is remove the vacuum line at the LR corner of the engine compartment (there is a T there) and check for transmission fluid. If there is fluid there the valve is leaking.

 What stopped working on the A/C ?? As far as the rear wiper. That is most likely the motor. Not sure on the taillight getting water in. Have not seen that.

 The fuel gauge is most likely the fuel sender in the tank. The problem is there are small "fingers" on the sensor that run on a small resistance board. The additives in the fuel "eats" these away over the years and the fuel gauge stops reading correctly. Usually the gauge will read full when it is close to empty. Repair. Remove tank and replaced sender. Should be able to replace sender without having to replaced entire tank unit. There is nothing you can "pour" into that tank that will fix this.

 Now on the Alarm. If your buddy removed all of the aftermarket parts and reinstalled the factory parts the key-less entry just has to be reprogrammed. That guys us lying to you. There is no code for this. Its just has to be reprogrammed. No biggie. Off the top of my head I cant remember the procedure for this. But I could find out.

 Although I agree that using tax payer money to bail them out was stupid. It should have been done. The fall out from NOT doing it would have been worse then it has been. My dealer lost its franchise as a result of the big freaking mess. So GM can Kiss my ars as well........
 

[~ Timbrwolf]

.....MAD6Gun........thank you very much for your help.....especially in regards to the 4X4 problem.....I had a feeling it was something "minor".....only because Ive not used it all that much until I moved to Michigan.....its the "push button"...dash type...Im sure you,re familiar with the type....push the button...light comes on...but you cant "feel" it engage like normal...and it dosent... it just stopped working one day...Im going to see if I can locate the area you mentioned and....see what I can see...


....as far as GM ...kissing my arse....everyone has their limits where frustration sets in rapidly.....if it,s any consulation....I think the new Camaro rocks..



.........thanks again for your help

[Black Dog]

Common' Timber...  Tell us how you really feel  

Didn't mean ta get ya all riled up, but I do understand you reaching your limit  

As for my Suburban...  I have had my share of issues, but it's paid for, and an occasional repair is just part of owning a car.

I purchased the truck in '05 (it's an '03, and had about 55K at the time).  Besides the gauge cluster, I've replaced both front wheel hubs, the intake manafold gasket (can you say ka-ching $$$?), and have a 4X4 actuator motor waiting to be installed (to correct a problem with the 4X4 sometimes playing dead), before the snow hits us.

All things considered, now with 120K miles, I'm happy with the truck.  I get about 16 mpg in every day driving, and almost always am over 18 mpg on the super slab.  Do I wish I didn't need to do the repairs I've encountered?  No doubt.  Funny thing is, we've had 5 or 6 honda Civic's and Accords up over 100K (wife's cars), and never needed to do anything other than the normal brakes, tires, and one clutch...  Gotta love the Honda's  

Black Dog

[~ Timbrwolf]

....lol...well Dog. ....Ive not had a good year....and you were privy to some of it.....unfortunately.....all those things I listed did occur with my Blazer.....did I mention that the factory head lights are so weak that I constantly drive around with my...high beams on....and no one notices the difference.....they think they,re my low beams........I understand that all vehicles have their problems, but this truck seems to have never ending ones...starting with the trim on the side back window....it,s a two door and has those large windows in the rear....the paint on the trim started degrading within a month after I bought it....took it back to the dealer and they couldnt just repalce the trim...they had to replace the entire window...why ?...because it was all one piece....but my favorite is....when replacing the spark plugs there is one that is....directly under the steering column...and to replace it...yep....you guessed it...steering column has to be removed.....but Im sure the engineers at GM didnt plan it that way.. 

[Black Pearl's Captain]

Your lights are probably dim because you've never replace the bulbs and they do grow weak with years. 10 is past due. The glass front is probably also glazed over from parking in the sunshine. they can be buffed up. Walmart sells a kit or Curley Wolf posted about a compound a while back on the tech board that should work.

The steering column is not a big deal, one bolt needs removed and the sterring "shaft" (not the entire column) slides out of the way readily. If you have a mechanic charging you extra for that your getting the "shaft".

Raymond

[MAD6Gun]

Timber. You do not have to remove the steering column to replace that plug. Not even the sahft. Yes it is a pain. (center one on the drivers side). You just have to be creative. I use two swivel and a extension to get to it. Oh yea it is easier going through the fender wells. Of course we have the advantage of lifts.

[~ Timbrwolf]

......Thanks again Mark


. ...and just to put it in perspective....just because I have issues with GM...dosent mean they dont have many ...honest....competent employees....Mark is an example of that....any company...that sells any "service" ...especially Dealer repair shops....need to strive to satisfy their customers....Mark said him self that the service manager "lied"...when he stated that I needed to give up 90 dollars to have my keyless entry...re-coded.....and I had other bad experience at the same dealership...and the sad thing was that I chose them because I thought they were the....lesser of evils....over closer dealerships...when I was a kid....like most others around here, I did all the work that needed to be done to my 69 Ford Falcon....68 Camaro rag top and 73 Chevy Cheynne pick up....and I have replaced the altenator on my Blazer....but now a days when you pop the hood on your vehicle for mechanical problems...most times you need to hook it up to a computer and read some codes.....



....Mark...I do have a question for you....last winter was brutal here...temps hit 25 below a few times....I had major problems with my truck starting....I replaced the battery....altenator....but it still would not start.....turned over fine....but I was pumping the gas pedal like mad...(which you shouldnt have to do with fuel injection)....and if it did finally start...it was really hard...and seemed like it was either starved for either oxygen or gas....but if outside temps were over 35 degrees it started right up...strong....had no problem with it this past summer...but we have had a few nights in the 25 degree range already...and its starting to act up again...I also now put "dry gas" in the tank just incase it somehow got moisture in the fuel line.....could it be some kind of sensor ?

[X Ring]

Just follow these instructions http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/tech-articles-two/50839-cleaning-headlights-form-yellow-yay.html.  It's an OLD thread on that board and the pics aren't there anymore.

Marty

[MAD6Gun]

Timber. I think all vehicles would be hard to start when it got that cold -25. Now at 25 it should start without a problem. Several things can cause a hard start. Weak fuel pressure or a bad coolant temp sensor to name two. The coolant temp sensor tells  the ECM what the engine temp is. Most of the time they will read low on the summer and cause a flooding issue because the ECM thinks it is cold so it puts in more fuel. It could fail the other way as well. If it was cold out and it read say 70 degress it would not put in enough fuel. This is rare.
 Another thing that we have seen is whats called fuel volitility. GM did a study years ago and found that some gasolines, usually higher octane do not "flash" to a vapor at colder temps. So that could make it start harder. You dont not want to "pump'' the pedal. This could "confuse" the ECM. If the engine floods for some reason you can hold the throttle down to the floor. That will put it into "clear flood" mode. Its just like doing the same to a carburated car. Basicaly turns off the fuel. If you are using high octane switch to a lower  grade. This might help. You didnt say if the check engine light comes on? Anyway there are alot of things that can cause hard start when cold. You can start with the easy stuff first.....
 

[MAD6Gun]

Oh by the way here is the procedure for reprograming the key-less remotes. First install a jumper wire ( a paper clip will work) into terminals 4 and 8 of the DLC connector under the dash (dont push to hard you could damage terminals). If the system is working correctly the locks will cycle. Then press and hold the Lock and unlock buttons on the remote. After about 30 seconds the locks will cycle again. If they dont the remote may be bad. If they do then do the same for the remaining remote if you have one. Remove the jumper,done. You may have to turn on the ignition to get locks to cycle after installing the jumper. Try it first without though. Thats it. If the system is working properly the remote should program. Goodluck.....

Use the attached link to determine DLC Connector terminal numbers. just look at the connector in the picture. Some DLC were mounted upside down so just compare it to the pic.

http://ocw.weber.edu/automotive-technology/ausv-1320-automotive-electronics/17-serial-data/data-link-connector

[~ Timbrwolf]

.....ya...I agree Mark...but 25 below was not the norm....thank God...but there were still ALOT of below zero nights that got .."up"...to the single digits and teens most days....and yeh....the "Check Engine" light...has come on for the last two years in the beginning of winter....and gone back off in the spring...and no...I didnt check it...mainly because I wasnt sure it wasnt just some short circuit or Dealer Idea to get me to bring my truck in for a "check up"...besides...I didnt know what to check the engine for...


.....but I want to thank you Mark....Very Much....for sharing your expertise with me...I will definitely try a few of the things that you took the time to tell me about..

[Skinhead]

Hey Timber,

If your check engine light came on, you have a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) set.  If you take the truck to AutoZone, they will read the codes for you.  If you get the codes, we can point you in the right direction for a fix. 

[~ Timbrwolf]

........really....that,s pretty cool thing to know....


.....lights off right now...but Im sure as cold weather sets in, it will come back on....can they still read the code if the lights off ? ......and how  much do they charge to read it ?

[HayHauler]

AutoZone in Texas does it for free, with the hope that you will buy the parts to fix it from them... 

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Black Dog]

Yup... Free, and buy some stuff from them 

Black Dog

[~ Timbrwolf]

. . . ......one of my favorite passtimes.. ...."buyin stuff".. . .....just ask Chili.. 

[~ Timbrwolf]

.......good point Raymond.....I thought about that in the past....I,ll hafta swap the head lights out for new ones.....Im thinkn maybe if they make more powerful ..aftermarket ones.. that might also help...

[Skinhead]

........really....that,s pretty cool thing to know....


.....lights off right now...but Im sure as cold weather sets in, it will come back on....can they still read the code if the lights off ? ......and how  much do they charge to read it ?

Once the light comes on the code is stored until the codes have been cleared with either a service tool or by disconnecting the battery or power to the ECM, (a battery going dead would also clear the codes).  Auto zone reads the codes for free.

[MAD6Gun]

What Skinhead and Hay are saying is correct. But if your  Autozone is like ours they will tell you its a sensor to get you to buy one. The only problem with this is the problem is not ALWAYS a sensor. Its most lilkely but not always. It can be wiring or another problem causing that sensor to read bad. For example. A O2 sensor might read rich, but what is causing it to read that way. Yes it could be a bad sensor but it could also be a fuel related problem that is causing the rich condition. So in this case if you replaced the sensor it would likely go bad again. That is where a scan tool comes into play. Not only can read codes it can show the peraminters of all the sensor. From there we can determine the cause. In most cases it is a defective sensor,but not always. So keep that in mind. Get the code from Autozone get the code. Then we might be able to steer you in the right direction.

[~ Timbrwolf]

......Thanks Mark and Skinhead, I,ll hafta locate an Autozone...think the closest one is 25 miles away...livin in the woods dontcha know..