Johnparcamper
Member
Posts: 21
The way my bike is most of the time Stranded.....
Pickerington OH 43147
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« on: December 10, 2017, 02:16:03 AM » |
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OK first off thanks to all you guys that weighed in on my first post, when I first got this bike. With your help and advice the bike was running so well I put new tires on it. Then I got the bright Idea of putting a little bit of slick 50 fuel system cleaner in the Gas tank and now my fuel leaks like it is being poured out. This happened early spring 2017, I was so frustrated I went out and bought another bike to ride for the Summer. My thinking is that the Slick 50 may have eaten the O Rings between the Carbs, and it will cost a small fortune to get that fixed. I can't tell for sure where it is leaking, I have only removed the Petcock switch on the left side to check the fuel line. It isn't seated all the way against the Petcock housing but it doesn't appear to be loose enough to be the leak problem. Since it is now Winter in Ohio and the powers that be have put liquid salt on the road I am not riding anymore so I figure it is time to get back @ the Valkyrie, so I can ride a real motorcycle come spring or maybe even a break in the weather. I am going to need something to feed fuel into the fuel line after I remove the tank, and the air cleaner assembly. Any Ideas?  |
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Harryc
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« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2017, 03:51:22 AM » |
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It's a gravity feed system and fuel will flow freely as long as nobody installed a fuel cutoff solenoid (Dan-Marc), so just run a fuel line from a gas container above the bike into the carbs. You may have to start the siphon first, clamp it, plug in the line, then remove the clamp. Or you could put another line on a carb drain, crack it open ans start the siphon that way. A siphon pump would be preferable to a human pump, but don't tell an old mechanic that.  Tip - if you are going to mess with disconnecting the fuel line from the carbs at the 'T', just be aware that T is plastic and will break so go easy. |
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« Last Edit: December 10, 2017, 04:19:42 AM by Harryc »
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Itinifni
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« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2017, 04:52:29 AM » |
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73? CT70
79 CB750K
82 GL1100
94 CBR1000F
Kid
Kid
97 Valkyrie Std. (May surpass the GL1100 as the best bike I've ever owned, I'll update in 50k miles)
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2017, 05:16:05 AM » |
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The link works, so who cares? That gas tank looks like it will work just fine.  Then I got the bright Idea of putting a little bit of slick 50 fuel system cleaner in the Gas tank and now my fuel leaks like it is being poured out. Never heard of a gas treatment damaging a fuel system that wasn't already suspect, but someone may have. I went back and breezed your original post. Seems you removed a gas line filter and had a leaking petcock. Is your present leak at the petcock or somewhere else? Did you rebuild the petcock? Seems you ruled out the vent line being the problem? I understand your frustration, the OEM fuel delivery system is confusing, but with patience and knowledge, it can run fine. You provide the patience and the VRCC Tech Board will provide the knowledge. Don't give up, she's worth it. |
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Bone
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« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2017, 06:57:24 AM » |
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Many things from Walmart.com are not stocked in the stores. If you place the order online they usually have the item at the store you pick the next day. They carry many name brand items take a look at the .com site.
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RonW
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« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2017, 08:38:24 AM » |
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« Last Edit: December 10, 2017, 08:40:07 AM by RonW »
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16608
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2017, 04:47:58 PM » |
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... may have eaten the O Rings between the Carbs, and it will cost a small fortune to get that fixed.
It may not be as expensive as you expected. Check out this guy. https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/6738361/carb-fuel-rail-leak-kit |
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Johnparcamper
Member
Posts: 21
The way my bike is most of the time Stranded.....
Pickerington OH 43147
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« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2017, 01:56:04 AM » |
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Ok just for the record this is the third time I've tried to reply you the posts you guys put up. I deleted the first one and started over and somehow I managed to destroy the last one and I have no Idea what I did.
Yes I rebuilt the Petcock but I rebuilt exactly like the one that was already on there and it was pretty much a group decision that the one that was on there had already been rebuilt backwards. I ended up replacing the Petcock with another OEM Petcock. So the petcock on it now is new and seems to work correctly it does at least shut the fuel off.
Thanks for the pictures, I've had my bike torn down to the point I can see the same thing you see in these pictures. My fuel line is seated about the same but If I recall I couldn't get that clamp over the hump so it is just gripping the end of the fitting.
I don't think I am up for doing the fuel rail seals if that is indeed the problem. Removing one Carburetor cleaning it and putting it back on is no problem, but doing 6 of them would be a nightmare for me. My school of thought is if you remove the Carburetor you at least remove the bowl float and jet and clean everything. On a multi-Carb application like this I don't have the knowledge or the equipment to do the Syncing. I am more of an old school back yard mechanic for cars GM specifically.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2017, 04:14:32 AM » |
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Ok just for the record this is the third time I've tried to reply you the posts you guys put up. I deleted the first one and started over and somehow I managed to destroy the last one and I have no Idea what I did.
Yes I rebuilt the Petcock but I rebuilt exactly like the one that was already on there and it was pretty much a group decision that the one that was on there had already been rebuilt backwards. I ended up replacing the Petcock with another OEM Petcock. So the petcock on it now is new and seems to work correctly it does at least shut the fuel off.
Thanks for the pictures, I've had my bike torn down to the point I can see the same thing you see in these pictures. My fuel line is seated about the same but If I recall I couldn't get that clamp over the hump so it is just gripping the end of the fitting.
I don't think I am up for doing the fuel rail seals if that is indeed the problem. Removing one Carburetor cleaning it and putting it back on is no problem, but doing 6 of them would be a nightmare for me. My school of thought is if you remove the Carburetor you at least remove the bowl float and jet and clean everything. On a multi-Carb application like this I don't have the knowledge or the equipment to do the Syncing. I am more of an old school back yard mechanic for cars GM specifically.
Don't sell yourself short. If you can do old GM cars you can do these carbs. Take your time, take pics beforehand so you know how everything goes back, and ask questions here. There might be someone near you with a DigiSync. |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2017, 06:59:44 AM » |
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Seems very premature to be attempting to remove/replace the carburetors without knowing from exactly where the leak is originating. That's a very rookie solution and there's a real possibility of causing some unintended consequences and/or damage and not actually correcting the problem that's causing the angst.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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cross
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« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2017, 12:14:23 PM » |
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I made aux tank for under $10 with parts from hardware store and old water bottle.
If you have something like this or the one from the wall mart link you are good.
Take the tank off, fill this auxiliary tank with fuel and watch where carbs would leak.
That's what I did. I removed carbs to clean them and them connected this aux tank to the carbs on my workbench. Carbs almost immediately started leaking as most of the floats weren't closing. Also T's were getting moist as well so I bought the whole kit from red eye and new float bowl valves from Honda.
After rebuild I connected aux tank again and left them like that overnight. There were no leaks next day.
I would post a pic but can't
Sasha
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rhubarbray
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« Reply #11 on: December 24, 2017, 08:15:12 AM » |
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Last year when I had the carbs off my new-to-me `98, I happened to move the inlet T on one side. Bad mistake. The orings were so hard they had taken a "set". They weren`t leaking before I moved it but I thought I`d better bench check them before going back on. Damn good thing! Now, I was a little hesitant about splitting carbs as they were a PITA on my inline 4`s. These are the simplest carbs to split I`ve seen!! If you can find the sharp end of a screwdriver you can split them. Get the orings beforehand and don`t worry about diving in. Take closeup pics for reference and you shouldn`t have a problem.
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Johnparcamper
Member
Posts: 21
The way my bike is most of the time Stranded.....
Pickerington OH 43147
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« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2018, 07:05:59 AM » |
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OK I have the Valkyrie torn down so that I am back to the fuel lines and can easily see the fuel rail connections. I wiggled the right side as I am facing the front of the bike. I think it wiggled too much, I tried wiggling the left side and it didn't wiggle @ all. Before you guys start telling me about wiggling fuel connections, I figure if they are that loose they are more than likely bad and if the only thing that is sealing them is crud, then they need to be replaced. I bought a small Gas Tank for a Honda lawn mower or tractor it was about $18 is brand new and comes with a screen inlet for the insert and a motorcycle type outlet with a screen on the inside. The outlet is a bit small but I figure a trip to NAPA should resolve that. The gas seems to pool on the right top of the motor, even when it is sitting on the kick stand. I will be very surprise if the fuel rail isn't leaking and I will definitely let you know what I find out. OK yes I'm Lazy, I procrastinate and I hat the cold. My garage is also cold and crowded in the winter. Oh and the Coupe D Grace is I'm pretty sure the fuel in the tank has gone bad.  My fault I'm the one that let it sit for a year. |
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Savago
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« Reply #13 on: March 10, 2018, 09:56:42 AM » |
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Adding Stabil marine in the gas tank can save the day (and keep the gas from going bad even for periods of 1 year or longer). Keep up and let us know when you got the issues sorted out. |
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RonW
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« Reply #14 on: March 10, 2018, 12:30:17 PM » |
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..... I am back to the fuel lines and can easily see the fuel rail connections. I wiggled the right side as I am facing the front of the bike. I think it wiggled too much, I tried wiggling the left side and it didn't wiggle @ all. - Before you guys start telling me about wiggling fuel connections, I figure if they are that loose they are more than likely bad and if the only thing that is sealing them is crud, then they need to be replaced.
Any time you pull on the fuel line to connect the fuel line to the tank spout to gain slack, in the same motion, you *wiggle* the fuel line connection at the fuel rails due to the t-connector. That might have been just enough in your situation to unseat the fuel line at the fuel rails. With the fuel tank on, you wouldn't be able to spot the leak. So, don't think you did anything wrong there. You carbs are probably fouled up from sitting in the old gas, so I'd rinse and drain the carb bowls. The jets sit submerged below the fuel level in the bowls so let them soak in a strong solution of Marine Stabil. Soak and drain, soak and drain. If you have a plastic syringe, you can back feed the bowls through the drain spout. |
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15211
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2018, 04:16:18 PM » |
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John, when you say "petpencil" are you referring to the "petco-ck?" Just curious....keep us posted on your project.
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« Last Edit: March 11, 2018, 09:14:32 AM by John Schmidt »
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2018, 09:52:12 PM » |
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The bad language filter will screen out the word CO CK, even when it is only part of a longer word. Co ck translates to pencil (so the bad language drafters had a sense of humor). Thus, typing petco ck automatically translates to petpencil. Petco ck is used so often on the forum, as it's one of the bikes weakest links, and often discussed. As you can see, you can defeat the filter with a space or two. On the other hand, pussywillow is unaffected by the bad language filter.  (that is not a shot at Carl, just some humor on the subject) |
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« Last Edit: March 10, 2018, 10:09:20 PM by Jess from VA »
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15211
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #17 on: March 11, 2018, 09:12:55 AM » |
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Jess, I just went back and attempted to correct the spelling in my post from "petpencil" to "petco-ck"(without the hyphen) and it didn't take. I guess when I used to fly a lot I did it from the "pencilpit" of the airplane.  Just for kicks and giggles, I went back and used your approach and put a hyphen in the middle. Voila, I'm no longer a pervert. Well....maybe, but at least not on the board.  |
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« Last Edit: March 11, 2018, 09:17:12 AM by John Schmidt »
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dmerc
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« Reply #18 on: March 11, 2018, 05:42:14 PM » |
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Johnparcamper, my fuel rail was leaking VERY badly when I started up my '02 on a nice day in Feb. Was fine last year, sat for a few months of Ohio winter, then, BAM! Should be easy to see if it's the fuel rail, with a small dental mirror and flashlight. I stripped it down, but did not remove the manifolds on the left side, only the ones for carbs # 3 and 5 (my leaker) Remove the support bolts tieing the banks together, then slid #5 carb over far enough to replace the o-rings..... $1.40 at NAPA, and a few hours of work. Saved a little time not pulling the entire bank of carbs. My #5 carb separated pretty easy (luckily) (watch those springs when separating) If you were closer, I'd gladly help you. It wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. You can do it!
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dancnman
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« Reply #19 on: March 22, 2018, 10:11:17 AM » |
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I made mine from a gallon tea container. But is is old now and cracking so this is a great option. |
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Reality is that thing which does not change simply because I choose to ignore it.
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