Headlight Issue-tap to activate...

[Fazer]

I have a relatively short time lamp in the ol' girl.  Recently it has not been coming on when I start up unless I lightly tap the glass.  Then it is on and comes back on next time I start.  Anyone else had this happen? 

I have a new lamp just in case, but they are kind of expensive and I don't want to replace unless necessary.  Also, I have to take off the Memphis Bat Wing.  Not a huge deal, but I have never been able to simply un-clip and re-attach without loosening everything up first.

Probably the smart money is to just replace the lamp.

[John Schmidt]

I'd check the wiring associated with the headlight, especially in the headlight bucket. Nothing like riding with a possible fire hazard. Also, if it's a Halogen bulb you NEVER want to touch the bulb with your bare fingers, always handle with a paper towel or similar. Your body oils seem to create a hot spot eventually which will shorten the life of the bulb.

[Valker]

Almost certainly the starter button. It's a ten minute job to fix (not my first time).
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

[Fazer]

Valker:  I have the BonS smart switch for the head lamp--do you still think it is the switch?

[Valker]

Valker:  I have the BonS smart switch for the head lamp--do you still think it is the switch?

Beyond my knowledge since I've never had one of those.

[WintrSol]

It could still be the switch - the Smart Switch depends on the Voltage from the start button switch to work and, if that switch is damaged from years of full headlamp power, could be finding pits in the contacts. Or, you could just have a loose connection in the headlamp. It could also be a crack in the bulb filament - does the lamp come on when you switch to high beam, while it is off in low?

[Fazer]

WintrSol--No, neither low or high beam comes on.  I just tap the front of the glass and presto, on it comes.  I think switch maintenance is in order anyway, even if that is not the problem.

[WintrSol]

Next time, whack the switch housing. It *could* be the tap on the glass is sending a vibration down the handlebar; given the other vibrations, it's hard to justify this, though. I think it is more likely you have a broken wire or loose connection inside the headlamp. A good buffing to the switch is never a bad idea in an older machine, though.

You should be able to open the headlamp and move the wires around while the lamp is on (key on, run/stop switch in stop), just to see where the break is occurring. Supporting the lamp itself can be a PITA, especially if you have a windshield, but sacrifices must be made.

[Gryphon Rider]

If tapping the headlight (temporarily) fixes it, it only makes sense that the problem is at the headlight, not the switch.
Perhaps a:
corroded connection between the socket and the bulb,
frayed wire, or most likely,
the bulb's filament is broken, but the broken ends are close enough that sometimes they connect.

One thing I'm curious about is, does power going through a broken filament somehow "magnetically" holds the broken ends in position?  If so, this would explain why tapping the bulb makes it light up.

[WintrSol]

... or most likely,
the bulb's filament is broken, but the broken ends are close enough that sometimes they connect.

One thing I'm curious about is, does power going through a broken filament somehow "magnetically" holds the broken ends in position?  If so, this would explain why tapping the bulb makes it light up.

Usually, only one filament will crack this way, and making contact from a tap will temporarily spot-weld the ends. Unless it is the supporting ground wire in the bulb that is cracked this way, it isn't a cracked filament. A wire broken at a crimp, but under the insulation will often behave this way; also, a corroded socket contact, but it would have to be more than one, or the ground, as the Smart Switch activates on power on either of the two (Hi/Low) inputs to switch power to the bulb. It could also be damage to the Smart Switch battery power lead. But, yes, it is very unlikely tapping the lens will affect the switch.

[Fazer]

I had the fairing off the other day and opened up the headlight bucket, and don't you know the socket was not seated on the back of the bulb.  Doh!  Slid it up tight and back in business.

[RonW]

I'm gonna replace the oem plastique plug with a ceramic plug (below). There's some discoloration on the plastic plug. Not a huge concern but just to keep on the safe side. Previously, I've ordered the wrong type plug that were not designed to plug in the oem flag terminals (second pic).

[Tfrank59]

My first thought upon reading your post was also that it was the starter switch. If you just gently tap the starter switch after the bike is running but the light is not on, and the light then comes on, it's definitely your starter switch. Just my 1.5 cents