Wheel Damper Holder Bolts

[vanagon40]

I broke a bolt (#16) that holds the wheel damper holder (part #6) in place.



HDL wants $2.50 each for these 6X17mm bolts (special hex key heads???).  I expect my local dealer wants more.

Is there any reason I cannot use generic bolts?  The manual specifies that the once removed, the bolts should all be replaced.  I wanted to ignore that advice, but I broke one, so I guess now I will replace them all.

[Do not even bother answering this question.  After typing my entire post, I have convinced myself that a generic bolt (or even only four used bolts) will work just fine.  I will go ahead and make this post in case someone should wish to post a dissenting opinion.]

Quite frankly, the holder does not serve a major purpose and is not under major stress and I am sure that had I not been so anal/retentive in my old age, I could have installed the holder with only four bolts and it would have functioned fine for the next 10,000 miles until I serviced the splines again.  (This is what I would have done 25 years ago.)  Note that the holder actually slips under keepers on the side of the wheel hub and the bolts merely keep the holder from spinning to the position where the holder can be removed.

The only problem I can see with not using the OEM bolts is possibly a clearance problem, given the heads on the OEM bolts are rounded with hex key inserts.

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As an aside, this is entirely my own fault.  For the first 50 years of my life I never owned a torque wrench, and simply tightened using my own good (or bad) judgment (although I candidly admit that I would not have had a use for a torque wrench prior to age 13).  I attempted to tighten these bolts to 14 ft-lbs. using my almost new torque wrench and broke one.  I think I will reserve using my torque wrench to much larger bolts at much higher torque.

[AussieValk]

I know what you mean.....I bought my first torque wrench a short time ago and snapped the second bolt with it.......wouldn't have happened just judging by hand......only for use on major items now.

[Skinhead]

I believe the only reason the manual says to replace the bolts it that they have a thread locking patch on them when new which is destroyed when they are installed and removed.  If you applied blue locktite I think you could reuse the original bolts.  (that's what I did)

[Patrick]

I don't see any reason to replace those bolts unless they are damaged.. As for torque wrench usage,, there are places to use them and places not to use them.. They also have to be used correctly and I see folks every day that don't know the correct way to use one..

[vanagon40]

They also have to be used correctly and I see folks every day that don't know the correct way to use one..

That could be me.

In any event, the bike is back together with four of the original five bolts holding the plate in place.  I will install five new ones in 10,000 miles.

[Big Rig]

Dampers....how often do you replace them andhow do you know they need to be replaced???

[f6john]

     I may be missing something hear but those bolts are resposible for transfering the rotation and torque from the differential to the wheel and while they engage the wheel dampers which take up some of the driveline shock I would think that the way some of us push the big girl I don't think I would want any grade 2 hardware in there. I'm sure it will work with 4, I'm just saying.........

[vanagon40]

Super Drago:

I'm not sure how often the dampers would need to be replaced.  Mine were fine but I upgraded to better dampers sold by Gary "Shock Bushings" Eckermann.  Assuming you are doing rear wheel spline maintenance every 10,000 to 12,000 miles, I'm sure you would see a problem developing prior to any failure.

f6john:

I think you are missing something.  Those bolts do not transfer any torque from the differential to the wheel.  The damper holder plate holds the dampers in place and that plate is locked into the hub by "tabs" on the hub.  The main function of the bolts is to keep the damper holder plate from rotating back to a position where it could be removed.  I dare say that all five bolts could be removed and a single wooden chop stick would hold the plate in place.  I am not going to try it though.

[AussieValk]

The final drive flange on my bike has remained in place on the wheel when removing the rear wheel until the last one (two months ago) when I had the flange stay with the pumpkin instead of the wheel on removal. To me this indicated worn dampers which was the case. Advice from this board also indicated that to be true. I replaced dampers and now everything is a firm fit, meaning that when the wheel is removed the flange will stay with the wheel. Unless I'm wrong the damper holder plate is only responsible for holding the dampers in place while the drive force is applied through the final drive flange and bolts, much like a car arrangement.

I'd be interested in the results should you try to replace the bolts with "chop sticks" as I can see that it would be a far cheaper alternative.......

[Ricky-D]

Plates steel bolts and stainless bolts all have a tendency to galvanize in the threaded hole and lock up to where they want to break upon removal.

I would suggest that locktite is unnecessary for those particular bolts due to the fact they are not holding a working part but merely holding a, so to speak, "cover". 

The best solution in my opinion is to use an anti seize on the bolts.

It will allow the removal with less chance of breaking a bolt.

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[Jess from VA]

I just put a TripleTred on my other IS, and installed Gary's poly dampers today.  The keeper bolts were pristene and did show the old dab of goo on them.  We put another dab on, but probably unnecesary.

My tech said the OE dampers did show some wear/slop (at 31K), but would have been OK for a while longer.  FWIW

[ironman]

 just removed rear wheel and the final driven flange stayed  in final drive and wheel wont clear the flange to remove. how can i pry flange loose without damaging final drive...how have anyone solved this problem?

[Jess from VA]

just removed rear wheel and the final driven flange stayed  in final drive and wheel wont clear the flange to remove. how can i pry flange loose without damaging final drive...how have anyone solved this problem?

I had this problem (for the first time) on my most recent teardown for a new U-joint.  I must have tried 15 times, over and over, until I got the flange to come off in the wheel.  I cannot remember if there is some trick or technique.  When the flange stays in the final drive, there is just not enough clearance to get the wheel off.  Big PITA.  Be patient and keep trying.   

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Ironman, if you can't pry the flange back into the wheel just unbolt the entire final drive and remove the whole unit at one time. Then you can take it apart and clean and check everything out.

[hubcapsc]

HDL wants $2.50 each for these 6X17mm bolts

I'm pretty sure that's their rock bottom price on anything... The dinky little screws that hold the top
on the clutch and brake reservoirs... $2.50 each...

-Mike

[Ricky-D]

The easiest way to get the flange to come off with the wheel is to remove the rear brake caliper plate and spacer and then reinsert the axle to keep things lined up.

There is a slot in the bottom of the dust shield where you can insert a large size screw driver to pry and the flange will move away from the drive unit very easily since the axle is still in place holding everything in line.

Same thing in reverse makes for easy installation of the wheel/flange unit.

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